
Class. 



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NARRATIVE 



I VOYAGES AND EXCURSIONS 

ON THE 

EAST COAST AND IN THE INTERIOR 
OF CENTRAL AMERICA ; 

DESCRIBING 

\ A JOURNEY UP THE RIVER SAN JUAN, AND 

PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE OF NICARAGUA 
TO THE CITY OF LEON I 

POINTING OUT THE ADVANTAGES OP A DIREC" COMMERCIAL 
INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES. 

BY ORLANDO W. ROBERTS, 

MANY YEARS A RESIDENT TRADER. 

WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS 
BY EDWARD IRVING. 



EDINBURGH: 

PRINTED FOR CONSTABLE k CO. EDINBURGH 
AND HURSTj CHANCE, & CO. LONDON. 




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"^^ THE V.\RtorS DEPART.\DiXTS^^p^ ^ 

MTKKATrMS S€IK^X£. c^ 'Tim AUT S , 
ROBERTS* NARRATIVE . 




1827. 



TO 

HIS EXCELLENCY 

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

EARL BATHURST, K. G. 

THE PROMOTER OF DISCOVERY 

AND ADVOCATE OF THE ABOLITION OP SLAVERY 

THIS NARRATIVE IS RESPECTFULLY lySCRTP^:© 

BY HIS LORDSHIP*S 

MOST OBEDIENT 

AND VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, 

THE AUTHOR, 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 
Preface . • xui 

CHAPTER I. 

Want of Information regarding the East Coast, and 
Interior— Inarras' Imperfect History— Influence 
of the Romish Church ineffectual in civilizing the 
Indians^Former compared with their present state 

Progress of the late Revolution — The Author's 

opportunities of Information 25 

CHAPTER II.- 

Voyage to the Bay of Mandingo — Natives— Trade, 
&c. — Sarsadee — New Caledonia and Scotch Darien 
Company — San Bias Indians — Their Manners and 
Customs — Their enmity to the Spaniards — Women 
— Sookeati Men — Rivers — Forests — Game — Fish, 
&c.— Turtle—Tortoise-sheU, &c. ...... 33 

CHAPTER III. 

Voyage to Chiriqui Lagoon — Porto Bello — Mosquito 
Shore — Chrico Mola — Residence there — Sarsapa- 
rilla— -Excursions in the Interior — Story of a Gold 



VI CONTENTS. 

FACE 

Seeker — Hunting party— View of the Atlantic and 
Pacific — Visit from a Sloop of War — Character, 
mid Customs of the Valientes — Soupa Tree — Ser- 
pents — Buccaniers— Chilibee, Tiribee, and Blan- 
co Indians 52 

CHAPTER IV. 

Rio del Oro — Gold Mine— River Belem — Leave Chi- 
riqui and Boco del Toro — Tiribee Indians— Blan- 
cos — Trade at Salt Creek — Matina — Cartago — 
Dreadful Earthquake — Turtle Bight — Natural 
History — Rio Colorado — River and Harbour of 
San Juan — Indian River — Vanilla Plant — Rama 
Indians and River — Bluefields Lagoon — Former 
English Settlements — Bluefields River — Cookra 
and Woolwa Indians . 83 

CHAPTER V. 

Pearl Kays and Lagoon — Oysters — European Set- 
tlers — Stores — Traders — Climate, Produce — Rio 
Grande, or Prinzapulko — Indians and Chief Men 
— Pine Savannahs — Macaws — Soil — Horses — Iron 
—Captive Indian Boy — Cruel Expeditions against 
tlie Cookras — Prinzapulko River and Indians-*- 
Contracts with the Woolwas — Tongulas — Captain 
Tai*ra — Brown — Return to Pearl Kay Lagoon . 105 

CHAPTER VI. 

Admiral Earnee— Tribute— King's Houses— Towka 
Indians — Para Lagoon — Brancman's Bluff— Sa- 
vannahs— -Deer— Sandy Bay— Conversations with 
the Indians— Arrival, Reception, and Character of 
the Mosquito King— Counsel— Music and Musi- 
eal Instruments— History of Don Carlos and Go- 
vernor Clementi— Soil and Produce— Marl— Pipe 
Clay— Journey to Cape Gracias a Dios . . . l^-* 

CHAPTER VIL 

Cape Gracias a Dios-Old King George, the present 
King— Education at Jamaica— Bad soil— war- 



CONTENTS. Vll 

PAGF 

l)Our Great Cape River — Importance of the Cape 

Orio-in of the Samboes — Croatch River — Kuka- 

Yi Spotted Indians — Caratasca Lagoon — Fish 

and Game — Soil, produce — Crater — Patook River 

Horses — Kharibees — Brewers Lagoon — Black 

River and Lagoon — Old Fort Settlers — Mines- 
Fertility of the Settlements — Story of Ian Austin 14^ 

CHAPTER VIIL 

Harbour of San Juan de Nicaragua — Attack by an 
Independent Cruiser — Taken as a Spy — Trial and 
Escape— Conduct of the Indians^Ordered to San 
Carlos — Bongos — The Fort or Battery and En- 
trances of the Iliver — Manatis — Serapiqui — Com- 
modore Mitchell's Expedition — Islands — Rapids 
— Alligators — Arrival at the Castle of San Juan — 
Its present state — Great Rapid— -Former incorrect 
statements regarding the river 168 

CHAPTER IX. 

Leave Fort San Juan — Fine timber on the Banks- 
Village and Fort of San Carlos— Proceedings there 
—Religious Tracts — Depart for Granada — The 
Lake of Nicaragua — San Miguel — The Padrones 
Orisons — Volcanic Island — Land between the 
Lake and South Sea — Arrival at Granada — Exa- 
mination and Imprisonment — Base Interpreter- 
Departure for the City of Leon 189 

CHAPTER X. 

Massaya — Remarkable Strata of Lava between the 
Lakes of Leon and Nicaragua — Wheel Carriages — 
Mules, &c.—Monagua— Hospitality of the Cura— 
Matares — Mama-Tomba — Mountain road and 
Game--Nagarotta — Pueblo Nueva — Plain of Leon 
— Chain of the Andes — Answer to Baron Hum- 
boldt— Arrival at Leon — Its vicinity to the South 
Sea— Story of English Sailors — Final examination 
and acquittal- Don Allemagne — His valuable 



VIU CONTENTS. 

trade — City of Leon — Its Houses, &c. — Provisions 
—Luxurious mode of living — Urbanity of the Go- 
Temor 207 



CHAPTER XL 

Departure from Leon— Game, &c.— Pueblo Nuevo 

— Monagua ^ Political State of the Country ^ 

Kindness of Inygoyen — Recross the Lava — Effects 
of the^ Eruption — Massaya — Colonel Sacassa — 
Medicine— Indian Procession — Missionaries — Ar- 
rival at Granada — Lake and adjacent Country — 
Earthquakes — Exactions of the Government — A- 
bundance of Provisions— Voyage to San Carlos, 
&c 227 



CHAPTER XIL 

Guatemala — Nicaragua — Indians — Population — 
Hostile Tribes — Lake of Nicaragua — Spanish Posts 
^Route by Bluefield's River — Journey of Pat- 
terson—Atlantic and Pacific Canal — Necessity of 
Foreign Labourers — United States Contract fo£ 
Cutting a Canal — Gold Mines— Passage dovrn the 
San Juan— Mosquito King's Letter — Indian Dar- 
ing Plan of Revenge— Arrival at Prinzapulko— 

Joy of the Indians 2-18 

•=) 

CHAPTER XIIL 

Generous conduct of the Indians— Their account of 
Lord Nelson's Expedition— Journey to Cape Gra- 
cias a Dios — Size and value of Mahogany, &c. — 
Mosquito men— Cruelty of Barras— King's Token 

Voyage to Balize — Racon— Visit to Black River 

— Kharibs and KharibBread— Settlements, History 
and Character of the Khairbees— Poyer Country 
—Islands of Guanaja—Roatan— Stormy Passage 
across the Bay of Honduras .....•• 2^* 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER XIV. 

PAGE 

Mosquito CJountry — Its Fitness for European Settle- 
ments — Climate, Productions, &c. — Former Bri- 
tish Settlements there — Natives, and necessity for 
affording them Protection — Disputes regarding the 
Mosquito Shore — Opinion of Mr Edwards — Dif- 
ficulty of access to the Central States from the 
East Coast — Route by Omoa to Guatemala — Leave 
Balize — Taken by Pirates — Escape to Cuba, and 
Return to England , • . . . 290 

Appendix 295 



PREFACK 



Mr Roberts, whose Narrative of Voyages 
and Adventures is now submitted to the 
public, went to sea at an early period of 
life. While a youth in the American mer- 
chant service, he visited many parts of In- 
dia, China, and the Southern Hemisphere. 
Afterwards he was employed, in the same 
part of the world, in the squadron under the 
command of Sir Edward Pellew, now Lord 
Exmouth; and subsequently, had the good 
fortune to bring to England the first valua- 
ble American ship captured in the South 
Sea, — dexterously eluding, on that occasion, 
the pursuit of the American frigate Essex in 
the Pacific, and baffling, after a long chase in 
the English Channel, that scourge of the 
British merchantmen, the True Yankey 
privateer. Latterly, he was in the com- 
mand of several valuable merchant ves- 
sels ; and possesses many documents bear- 



k 



XiV PREFACE. 

ing testimony to his good conduct and abi- 
lity as a navigator. The reasons which 
induced him to visit the West Indies, and 
to remain for several years, among the In- 
dians on the East Coast of Central Ame- 
rica, in the capacity of a trader, are deve- 
loped in the course of the narrative. 

On returning to his native country Mr 
Roberts was applied to by many highly re- 
spectable individuals, proposing, at that 
speculative period, to carry on certain oper- 
ations in Central America and on the Is- 
thmus of Darien, for information regard- 
ing the present state of that coast, and the 
dispositions of the native free tribes ; he 
found, with considerable surprise, that ex- 
treme ignorance was not only prevalent on 
these subjects, but that the topography and 
real state, of the greater part of that coun- 
try, especially of many of the important 
places on the Mosquito Shore, the coast of 
the Isthmus of Darien, and the Interior, 
which he had recently visited, were scarce- 
ly known. 

These circumstances first encouraged him 
to arrange his materials for the present 
narrative, w^hich, although in some points 
deficient, will contribute towards the great 
mass of valuable information lately diffused 
regarding the actual state of the New 
World ; in other respects, it will perhaps 
not be found unamusing. 

By his education, and former visits to 



PREFACE. XV 

various parts of the world, Mr Roberts had 
not only been divested of many prejudices 
and feelings, which would have disqualified 
some Europeans, from associating with In- 
dians and conforming to their mode of 
life ; but he had early acquired those ha- 
bits of observation, and that talent for in- 
vestigation, which qualified him for giving 
a fair account of their progress towards a 
state of civilization. 

In contemplating the increasing numbers 
or present state of the Kharibees, and 
descendents of those British slaves who re- 
mained on the Mosquito Shore when the 
English left it, we are enabled to draw infer- 
ences, very opposite to those of such advo- 
cates for the continuance of slavery, who 
assert that, under the present West India 
system, the majority of the slaves are more 
happy, and better provided with the means 
of subsistence, than they would be if gra- 
dually manumitted, and placed in a state of 
freedom, dependent only on their own ex- 
ertions ; for, it appears that the persons first 
alluded to, are not only increasing in num- 
bers, but are, by their own industry, amply 
provided with all the necessaries, and many 
of the luxuries of life. 

It is perhaps unnecessary to state, in de- 
tail, the rapid progress of those discoveries 
which Columbus had the glory of commenc- 
ing ; yet it may not be deemed improper, or 
irrelevant to the subject of the following 



XVI PREFACE. 

narrative, briefly to notice so much of them 
as relate to the ancient inhabitants of the 
East Coast of Central America, and the first 
attempts made by himself and his succes- 
sors, to subjugate those Indian tribes whose 
descendents have been so recently visited, 
and described by the author. 

Columbus having, in the year 1492, 
reached some of the Lucays, or Bahama 
Islands, proceeded to Cuba, where the na- 
tives gave him such information, as induced 
him to direct his course towards Hayti, 
(Hispaniola, or St Domingo), at which isl- 
and he arrived on the 6th December. 

We may here, however transiently, con- 
template the delightful picture presented by 
Columbus's first account of the appear- 
ance, happy state, and good conduct of the 
harmless natives ; w^e could dwell, with plea- 
sure, on their humane and generous con- 
duct to that leader and his adventurous 
band, when in consequence of the wreck 
of their principal vessel, they were in- 
volved in misfortune and difficulty. * But 

♦ " As soon as the Islanders heard of this disaster they 
crowded to the shore with their Prince Guacanahari at 
their head. Instead of taking advantage of the distress in 
which they beheld the Spaniards, to attempt any thing to 
their detriment, they lamented their misfortune with tears 
of sincere condolence, — not satisfied with this unavailing 
expression of their sympathy, they put to sea a number of 
canoes, and, under the direction of the Spaniards, assisted 
jn saving whatever could be got out of the wreck, and by 
the united labour of so many hands, almost every thing of 



•PREFACE. XVli 

it is painful to be obliged to turn immedi- 
ately to the dark scene which followed, and 
behold the sad change, which the arrival 
of these licentious and rapacious strangers, 
was destined to create among a million of 
innocent people ; for in the short space of 
fifteen years, they w ere reduced to a wretch- 
ed remnant, consisting of scarcely sixty 
thousand miserable and heart-broken slaves; 
and even these, were continually wasting by 
labour and misery ; so that, in a few years 
more, they found their only refuge in a 
premature grave ! 

On his second voyage, in 1493, Colum- 
bus discovered, what are now called the 
Leeward Islands, inhabited by a very dif- 
ferent race of men, who fiercely defended 
themselves, and made daring attacks upon 
their invaders. 

The third voyage took place in the year 
1498; he then discovered the Island now 
called Trinidad, and the Continent of South 
America ; but, after proceeding some dis- 

value was carried ashore. As fast as the goods were land- 
ed, Guacanahari in person took charge of them. By his 
orders they were all deposited in one place, and armed 
sentinels were posted, who kept the multitude at a dis- 
tance in order to prevent them not only from embezzling, 
but from inspecting too curiously what belonged to their 
guests. Next morning this Prince visited Columbus, who 
was now on board the Nigra, and endeavoured to console 
him for his loss, by offering all that he possessed to repair 
it,'* — Eobertson's History of America^ 



XVIU PREFACE. 

tance, along that coast, to the westward, he 
bore away lor Saint Domingo ; and, it was 
not until his last unhappy voyage, in the 
year 1502, undertaken in the hope of find- 
ing some strait leadino- to the then undis- 
covered South Sea, that he first explored 
the East Coast, a description of which, and 
its inhabitants, is the principal subject of 
the following narrative. 

At Guanaja, an island in the Gulf of Hon- 
duras, Columbus first had an interview with 
the natives of the Mainland. Proceeding 
to Cape Gracias a Dios, he examined the 
coast southward from thence to Porto Bello. 
He attempted to establish a small colony 
on the River Belem, but had there to con- 
tend not only against a more warlike race 
of people than those of Hayti, but also a- 
gainst the insubordination of his insolent 
and rapacious followers, and was thus 
deprived of the honour of planting the first 
European settlement on the Continent of 
America. 

About ten years afterwards, the King of 
Spain having allotted the coast between the 
Gulf of Darien and Cape de Vela, to Alonso 
de Ojeda, and from thence to Cape Gracias 
a Dios, to Diego de Nicuessa, both these 
leaders made preparations for colonizing 
and securing their new possessions, — the 
former Supported by a force of three hun- 
dred, and the latter by seven hundred and 
eighty men. But not being able to make 



PREFACE. XIX 

the natives comprehend by what right or 
title a foreign priest could dispose of their 
country, to a king of whom they knew no- 
thing, they not only refused to listen to the 
Spaniards, or to admit them to settle in their 
country, but, being attacked, they defended 
themselves with such resolute bravery, that, 
notwithstanding the most courageous and 
persevering efforts, and repeated reinforce- 
ments, the Spaniards, w^ith the loss of half 
their numbers, were compelled to abandon 
the enterprise. Cortes, Pizzaro and Balboa, 
commanders afterwards so celebrated, were 
among the number of volunteers ; but the 
former, destined for a higher and more suc- 
cessful undertaking, was compelled by sick- 
ness to remain at St Domingo. The form 
which, according to Herrera, was to be ob- 
served in taking possession of this country, 
is too important to be omitted in the pre- 
sent work. * 

After a lapse of above three centuries, 
and the extirpation or conquest, of nearly 
the whole of the ancient population, it is 
not only deeply interesting in a physiologi- 
cal point of view, but matter of exultation 
to every liberal mind, to mark the result of 
this determined and successful resistance; 
and we still trace with satisfaction, in the 
undegenerated San Bias men, Valientes, 
and other free Indians of the present day, 
the same feelings and sentiments of inde- 

* Note, No. 1. 



XX PREFACE. 

pendence which animated their courageous 
ancestors. Farther to the northward we 
find, in Clementi, a specimen of the ancient 
Cazique, and in his hill-people, a modifica- 
tion of the more mild and peaceable of 
the ancient tribes. We can also trace, al- 
though under greater modifications, a rem- 
nant of the fierce natives of the Leeward 
Islands, in the resolute free Kharibees f of 
the Bay of Honduras, and Mosquito Shore, 
much softened down however, by their in- 
tercourse w^ith Europeans, and by a slight 
intermixture with negroes. 

Balboa, by his successful expedition 
across the Isthmus of Darien, in the year 
1512, attracted a great number of adven- 
turers to that part of the continent, under 
the command of Pedrarias, who, being 
either unwilling, or unable, to restrain them 
from the most cruel and tyrannical exac- 
tions, the natives inhabiting the country to- 
wards the Lake of Nicaragua were al- 
most totally extirpated; and the removal, 
shortly afterwards, of the Spaniards from 
Santa Maria on the Gulf of Darien to Pa- 
nama on the side of the Pacific, complet- 
ed the subjugation of most of the neigh- 
bouring tribes, and opened the way, not 
only for the future conquerors of Peru, but 
also for the discovery of the provinces of 
Nicaragua by Davila in 1522, and the sub- 

+ Caraibe, in their original language, is said to signify 
** warlike people, " 



PREFACE. XXI 

sequent foundation of the cities of Cartago, 
Leon, Nicaragua and Granada. Cortes 
having, in the mean time, conquered Mexi- 
co, sent De Oli and others, in 1523, to what is 
now denominated the province of Hondu- 
ras ; and, during the same year, he commis- 
sioned Pedro Alvarado, with considerable 
forces to take possession of Guatemala; so 
that the Indians of the Central States, were 
at once assailed both from the north and 
south. 

Alvarado, a brave, politic, and indefati- 

fable soldier, after subduing the natives of 
^egnantepec, and completing the conquest 
of Soconusco and Ponala, arrived in the 
territory of Quichee ; and, after many des- 
perate battles with the natives — the Rachi- 
quels, and other powerful and warlike na- 
tions — founded the city of Guatemala in the 
year 15S4. To enter into an account of the 
brave defence made by many of these nations, 
and to trace the progress of the Spanish arms, 
would lead us into details which, although 
possessing great interest, are rather foreign to 
the subject of the following narrative. We 
must therefore rest contented by observing, 
that as the Spaniards approached the Mos- 
quito Shore, and the mountainous country 
between that coast and the Pacific, the de- 
termined resistance of the natives, and their 
aversion to the Spanish yoke, seems to have 
increased. In the province of Honduras, 
nearly the whole of which it still possessed 



XXll PREFACE. 

by the aborigines, the Caziques Copan Calel 
in 1530, and Lempira in 1536, seem to 
have defended themselves with a courage 
and conduct which would have done honour 
to more enlightened warriors ; and although 
they ultimately submitted, many of their 
subjects, as well as those, who had been some 
time before, driven from St Salvador, by 
Estete and other sanguinary and avaricious 
Spanish commanders, sought refuge in the 
mountains, and in the labyrinths of the 
coast, handing down to their posterity, that 
hatred of the Spanish name, which is so 
carefully cherished even at the present day. 
The Spaniards seem, from this period, to 
have given up the idea of pushing their con- 
quests in that quarter ; but, in the year 1608, 
according to the historian Vasques, attempts 
w^ere made, by missionaries^ to cob vert and 
bring the Indians on the north and east coast 
to acknowledge the Spanish yoke. These 
missionaries sought the tribes living among 
the mountains on the upper part of the Blue- 
fields River, and v/ere at first kindly re- 
ceived; but, afterwards, narrowly escaped 
to Guatemala with their lives, A second 
expedition, in 1612, escorted by 25 soldiers, 
was sacrificed in the same quarter by these 
unruly Neophytes. 

In the year 1623, other missionaries visited 
the country farther to the northward, and, at 
first, seem to have had hopes of success ; but, 
ultimately, they also, fell a sacrifice to their 



PREFACE. Xxiii 

zeal. These seem to be the last serious 
attempts of the Spaniards, in that quarter, 
to subjugate the free natives, whose early in- 
tercourse with the English and other Euro- 
peans, especially the Buccaniers, continually 
at war with the Spaniards, aided them in 
maintaining their independence. The friend- 
ly intercourse which continued to subsist 
during the period that the British had set- 
tlements on their coast, has strengthened 
their good opinion, and taught them to rely 
on us for that protection which it is hoped 
the British Government will promptly ex- 
tend to them, should any future emergency 
render our interference necessary for their 
preservation. 

EDWARD IRVING. 

# 
London, April 1827. 



VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES 



EAST COAST, AND IN THE INTERIOR 
OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 



CHAPTER I. 

WANT OF INFORMATION REGARDING THE EAST 

COAST, AND INTERIOR INARRAs' IMPERFECT 

HISTORY INFLUENCE OF THE ROMISH CHURCH 

INEFFECTUAL IN CIVILIZING THE INDIANS- 
FORMER COMPARED WITH THEIR PRESENT STATE 

PROGRESS OF THE LATE REVOLUTION THE 

author's OPPORTUNITIES OF INFORMATION. 

Although much valuable information has late- 
ly appeared relative to South America, no Eu» 
ropean traveller has, since the Spanish American 
revolution, given any account of the country si- 
tuated between Mexico and Colombia, forming the 

B 



26 INARRAS' HISTORY. 

Indian territory, and the United Proinnces of 
Central America, nor of the numerous tribes 
of free Indians in that part of the world, who . 
continue to detest the Spanish name, and will 
not admit one of that nation to settle among 
them. This may in some measure be attri- 
buted to the wilful silence of the West Indian 
traders, who are little inclined to spread informa- 
tion likely to produce competitors for a share of 
their lucrative trade ; and partly to the want of 
free access from the East Coast to the interior. It 
may also be partly owing to some remains of the 
old Spanish jealousy of strangers — to the compa- 
3'atively late period at which the Central Provinces 
ventui-ed to declare their independence, and the dif- 
ficulties incident to the first formation of a new 
govemment ; but, however this maybe, we are 
still obliged to look for information regarding this 
part of America to the Buccaneers of some cen- 
turies past. 

A " Statistical and Commercial History of Gua- 
temala " has indeed appeared, * translated from 
the Spanish of Don Domingo InaiTas, a native of 
New Guatemala ; but, although that work con- 
tains much valuable information, it is, for the most 
part, a compilation of ancient records, and, con- 
sequently, not of a nature to satisfy the British 
public ; or, what in this country is always an im- 
portant point, to guide commercial men in extend- 
ing their relations. Moreover, Inarras does not 
seem to know any thing of the Lake of Nicara- 
gua, or the Rio de San Juan ; or to have the least 
Imowledge of the Indian country and settlements 

* Translated by Lieut. Bailey, 11. N. Printed for 
Mearne, London, 1823. 



PRESENT CONDITION OF THE INDIANS. 2T 

on the East Coast, although these occupy ahove 
one half of Central America. 

It has heen considered by many, especially by 
those attached to the Romish church, that the ex- 
ertions of the Catholic clergy, for humanizing the 
Indians of Central America, have been eminently 
successful ; and that, bringing them within the pale 
of the cJiurch, has ameliorated their condition, ex- 
panded their mental and corporeal powers, and, 
consequently, added to then* earthly comfort and 
happiness. But when we come dispassionately to 
examine and consider their actual state at tlie pre- 
sent time, in comparison to what it was reported, 
even by the Spaniards, to have been at the pe- 
riod of the Conquest, there is too much reason to 
fear we would find ourselves obliged to pause 
before adopting that opinion. When we also 
compare the state of the great majority of the 
aborigines of the present day, with that of the de- 
scendants of those brave tribes who sought shel- 
ter on the coast, or defended their possessions 
there, it becomes a matter of doubt, whether the 
latter have not, under the tuition of lawless Buc- 
caneers, and licentious free traders, made gi'eater 
progi-ess in the scale of humanity, or, at all events, 
retained more of their ancient, moral and physi- 
cal strength, than the descendants of their less re- 
solute brethren of the Central States, who have 
enjoyed the tuition of the Roman Catholic priest- 
hood. In considering this question, however, it 
is not altogether to the peculiar influence which 
the dogmas of that church are alleged to exercise 
over the minds of the lower orders, by keeping 
them in slavish subjection to the declared infallibi- 
lity of its doctrines, that we must look for an ex- 



26 FOIWVIER AND PRESENT STATE 

planatioa of this circumstance ; for it may also be 
considered as fimiishing a proof, if any were ne- 
cessary, how much more capable of mental exer- 
tion are men in a state of freedom, than those who 
are retained in a state of slavery. 

According to the Historians of the Conquest of 
Guatemala, that country, when fii-st invaded by 
the Spaniards, under Don Pedro Alvarado, was 
flourishing and populous, to a degree which, com- 
pared with the present small numbers, and wretch- 
ed condition of the aboiigines, leads the mind to 
reflect, with astonishment and abhorrence, upon 
the massacres, cruelties and privations, by which 
their intrepid, but bigoted "and relentless conquer- 
ors, reduced the natives to their present state ; for, 
instead of an uncultivated and not half peopled 
country, containing, as at the present day, two or 
three poor cities, towns and villages, inhabited by 
a few thousands of Spanish religieuse and Creole 
descendants of Spanish 'adventurers, with groups 
of naked and degraded Indians scattered over the 
face of the country, living in filth and idleness, under 
the shelter of wretched huts, or travelling in droves, 
loaded like beasts of burden, on the one hand, — 
and a comparatively small number of free and in- 
dependent tribes, remnants of former kingdoms, 
speaking different languages, scattered along the 
sea-coast, or among the mountains, on the other — 
we, at the time of the first invasion, read of no 
less than thirty different nations of Indians in Cen- 
tral America, congregated in wealthy cities, in a 
state of prosperity and civilization, their kings and 
chiefs possessing sumptuous palaces and houses, 
great riches, and all the apparatus of regular go- 



OF THE INDIANS COMPARED. 29 

vernments. * According to Torquemada, and the 
historian Fuentes, one of these ancient cities, 
namely, Utatlan, the capital of the king of Quiche y 
was, at the beginning of the sixteenth century, so 
considerable, that it contained a population pro- 
bably equal in number to the whole present In- 
dians of Central America; for, to oppose the 
Spaniards, it alone produced seventy-two thousand 
fighting men ; and, in proof of its progress in civi- 
lization, one of its institutions was a seminary 
where, under seventy or eighty tutors, live or six 
thousand youths were maintained and educated at 
the king's expense. 

* It is asserted that the Central American Indians of 
the present day stilt use twenty-six of the ancient lan- 
guages, viz. Quiche, Kachiquel, Zutugel, Mam, Poco- 
mam, Pipil, or Nahuate, Pupuluca, Sinca, Mexican, 
Chorti, Alaquilac, Caichi, Poconchi, Ixil, Zotzil, Pzendal, 
Chapaneca, Zoque, Coxoh, Chaniabal, Choi, Uzpanteca, 
Lenca, Aquacateca, Maya, and Quecchi. 

The dress that the noble Indians wore was of white 
cotton dyed or stained with different colours, the use of 
■which was prohibited to the other ranks. This vestment 
consisted of a shirt and white breeches, decorated with 
fringes ; over these was drawn another pair of breeches, 
reaching to the knees, and ornamented with a species of 
embroidery. The legs were bare ; the feet protected by 
sandals, fastened over the instep, and at the heel by thongs 
of leather ; the sleeves of the shirt were looped above the 
elbow with a blue or red band ; the hair was worn long, 
and tressed behind with a cord of the colour used upon 
the sleeves, and terminating in a tassel, which was a dis- 
tinction peculiar to the great captains; the waist was 
girded by piece of cloth of various colours, fastened in a 
knot before ; over the shoulders was thrown a white 
mantle, ornamented with figures of birds, lions, and o- 
ther decorations of cords and fringe. The ears and lower 
lip were pierced to receive star-shaped pendants of gold 
or silver. The insignia of office, or dignity, were carried 
in the hand.— Zwarra 5, pp. 193 and 198. 

b2. 



30 THE author's opportunities 

The present town of Santa Cruz del Quiche 
is said to be founded upon, or near the place where 
it stood ; but so complete has been the destruction 
of all the remains of former greatness in this pai't 
of the world, that the site of many ancient cities, 
nearly equal in extent to the one mentioned, can- 
not now be traced, or with any degree of certainty 
pointed out. 

Having, in consequence of the great stagnation 
in the shipping interests prevalent in the year 
1815, visited the Western World, 1 resided up- 
wards of seven yeai's among ih^free tribes scat- 
tered along the East Coast, and during that pe- 
riod traded at every settlement between the 
Gulf of Darien and the Bay of Honduras ; and, 
in the course of that time, had a good opportunity 
of observing, and becoming well acquainted with 
the manners and customs of these people, and of 
contrasting their present state of civilization, with 
that of their subjugated brethren, in the Spanish 
American provinces. How far the late political 
changes, in that part of the world, will be likely 
to benefit both, or either of these classes of ab- 
origines, appeal's exceedingly doubtful, especial- 
ly while the new states continue, under the in- 
fluence of a church, whose interests are best main- 
tained, by keeping the great body of the people in 
a state of ignorance ; but, that they may ultimate- 
ly be raised from their present state of abject de- 
gradation, is ardently to be wished by every friend 
of humanity. 

It is necessary to observe, that symptoms ot 
discontent appeared in Venezuela ; and the foun- 
dation of the Spanish American revolution was 
established there, so early as about the year 1797. 



OF INFORMATION, &C. 31 

The expedition of the unfortunate Miranda, took 
place in 1806, and a sanguinary war raged in 1816, 
while, at the same time, Mexico had become the 
scene of ferocious contests ; yet the southern part 
of the kingdom or domain of Guatemala, remain- 
ed comparatively tranquil, until a much later 
period ; for, it will be perceived in the course of 
the following narrative, that, so late as the year 
1822, when I crossed the Lake of Nicaragua to 
the city of Leon, the Spanish authorities were, 
notwithstanding the declaration of independence, 
and various revolutionary movements in the city 
of Guatemala in 1820, still in undisturbed posses- 
sion of the government of that part of Central A- 
merica ; yet it was evident, that the mass of the 
population there, was adverse to the continuance 
of the Spanish yoke, and they have since joined 
in throwing it off. 

So many writers on the subject of America 
and the West Indies, have given minute and scien- 
tific descriptions, of the various plants, birds and 
animals, found in that part of the world, that even 
if I had been capable of entering into proper de- 
tails on the subject, I should only have wearied 
the patience of the general reader, without grati- 
fying the lover of natural history, by an exact account 
of new productions. I shall, therefore, notice only 
such of the plants, animals, and fishes, as appear- 
ed to be of importance, either in a commercial or 
some other point of view. 

In speaking of the residences of the natives, I 
shall, according to the custom prevalent on the 
East Coast, and in the West Indies, use, in the 
course of the following narrative, the terms settle" 
nient and plantation, although not, perhaps, the 



32 

most proper designation for the abodes of abori^l 
gines ; and, at the same time, I shall write th^ 
proper names, as nearly as possible, according 
the most prevalent pronunciation. 



33 



CHAPTER II. 

VOYAGE TO THE BAY OF MANDINGO — NATIVES 

TRADE, &C. SARSADEE NEW CALEDONIA 

AND SCOTCH DARIEN COMPANY SAN BLAS 

INDIANS — THEIR MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 

THEIR ENMITY TO THE SPANIARDS WOMEN 

— SOOKEAH MEN RIVERS — FORESTS GAME 

FISH, &C. — TURTLE TORTOISE-SHELL, &C. 

Arriving at Kingston, Jamaica, in the early part 
of the year 1816, 1 shortly afterwards obtained the 
command of a brig of about one hundred and sixty 
tons burthen, with an assorted cargo of no gi'eat 
value, but suitable to the Indian trade. 

We left Port Royal, Jamaica, in the month of Ju- 
ly, and, on the fourth day, we saw the high land 
at the back of the Bay of Mandingo, between 
Porto Bello and the Gulf of Darien. Next morn- 
ing, we anchored on the lee-side of one of the nu- 
merous kays, that are oflf its entrance, and we 
shortly perceived a canoe, with two Indians, com- 
ing cautiously round the point. On our hoisting 
the British ensign, they approached the brig, and 
hailed us ; to which my assistant, who understood 
their language, replied, that we were English tra- 
ders from Jamaica. On being made acquainted 
with the object of our voyage, they recommended 



34 VOYAGE TO THE 

US to proceed, in the first instance, to Great 
Playone River, as the most commodious place for 
loading the brig, and procuring a cargo with the 
greatest despatch. They shortly left us, but re- 
turned in the evening, accompanied by several ca- 
noes and dories, * from the shore, bringing plan- 
tains, bananas, cocoa-nuts, cassava, hogs, fowls, 
and turtle ; in exchange for which, we gave them 
fish-hooks, small glass beads, Dutch looking-glass- 
es, salt, and other ai'ticles, which, except to them, 
were of veiy trifling value. Our crew, in the mean 
time, put out their fishing-lines, and soon caught 
plenty of groupers, red and silver snappers, stone 
bass, and a variety of other fish, so that we had 
abundance of excellent provisions. 

Having thus apprised the Indians of our arrival 
on the coast, we next day got under weigh, and 
ran down the inner passage, between the small 
kays or islands, and the mainland. Tliis passage is 
full of coral rocks and reefs, but the water is so clear, 
that they are easily seen and avoided in the day- 
time, by keeping a man stationed at the mast-head, 
on the look out, to give waniing of the vessers ap- 
proach to them. At night, however, this inner 
passage, the whole distance from Mandingo to 
Caret, is totally impracticable. 

Between these points, are the mouths of many 
considerable rivers, the sources of which, are alto- 
gether unknown, even to the Spaniards, being si- 
tuated in the heart of a country, occupied by hos- 
tile tribes of Indians, wdio have always maintained 
their independence. Some of these rivers are said 
to rise within a short distance of the Pacific Ocean, 

* A kind of large boat, made out of the trunk of a 
tre^ 



BAY OF MANDINGO. 35 

but no authentic survey of any of them, has yet 
been made. 

In the evening, we came to an anchor off the 
river Daablo ; and, according to custom, fired a gun 
as a signal to the Indians, whose chief settlements 
are situated on the banks of the rivers, a consider- 
able way up from the sea. The report of even a 
six-pounder on this coast, is heard an immense way 
up the country ; but it is only the acute ear of an 
Indian, that can distinguish between its reverbera- 
tions among the mountains, and the more frequent 
sound of distant thunder. On hearing this signal- 
gun, canoes are immediately despatched, for the 
purpose of ascertaining the object of such a visit. 
Sometimes they an-ive the same evening, but at 
all times not later than next morning. 

Numbers of the Indians came off to the brig 
next morning, and expressed much satisfaction at 
seeing a vessel of the Clara's unusual size, visiting 
their coast for the purposes of trade. We pro- 
ceeded, by their recommendation, to Needle Kay, 
being the most eligible place for collecting fustic, 
which we intended should be the most bulky, 
although the least valuable part of our cargo. We 
were shortly visited by the chiefs, and by the 
Sookeah man, priest, or conjurer, of the great and 
little Playone tribes, who promised us all the as- 
sistance in their power. By their advice we 
hired a few Indians, who very expeditiously erect- 
ed a temporary house for us, on the kay, in 
which we had more room to display our commo- 
dities to advantage, than we could have had in the 
vessel. In two or three days, we landed and ar- 
ranged the goods we had to offer, cleared a spot 
for the reception of fustic, which the Indians had 



36 TRADE WITH THE NATIVES. 

gone to collect at theL' different settlements, and 
every thing augured favourably for the success of 
our voyage. The Indians, shortly began to arrive 
from all parts of the coast, with fustic, in canoe? 
and dories ; some of them brought from five hun- 
dred weight, up to three, four or five tons, but 
none of them exceeding the latter quantity. In 
exchange, we gave them ravenduck, osnaburg, 
checks, blue baftas, and other manufactured goods — 
mosschettes, (or G. R. cutlass-blades), and a va- 
riety of toys and small articles, adapted to this 
trade, for which articles, in barter, an enormous 
price was obtained. Hogs, fowls, and an abund- 
ant variety of provisions and fruits, were brought 
from vai'ious rivers, and sold to us at a very trifling 
consideration. The hogs, I may here remark, 
were turned loose on the kay, during the day- 
time, to seek for food ; but, at night, either from 
habit, or an instinctive fear of wild beasts, they in- 
variably kept crowded together, in a body, close 
to our house. 

Being desirous of procuring, as much tortoise- 
shell and cocoa as possible, we fitted out two large 
boats, by the Spaniards called bongos, for an ex- 
cursion along the coast, putting a few goods on 
board, and procuring the assistance of an Indian 
trader, who partially understood the English lan- 
guage. Being anxious to become acquainted with 
the coast, as far as I safely could, I took charge of 
this expedition : we slept the first night, at a small 
settlement, on the banks of the river Banana, 
where we bartered some trifling articles for tortoise- 
shell. From thence, we proceeded to the river 
Mosquito, where there is a considerable settlement 
of Indians ; but here, we could do no business, as 



TME DARIEN COMPANY. 37 

they had agreed to keep the whole of the tortoise- 
shell, which is of the finest quality, for the esta- 
hlished traders in the employment of Shepherd 
and Humphries of Jamaica, who have had persons 
stationed at this place, for some years past. 

The Indians here, are particularly favourable to 
the English, and have long adopted the British 
flag; from, the month of April to October, which 
is the fishing season, it is regularly hoisted every 
morning, at the house of the chief or head man. 

From Banana we proceeded, farther along the 
coast, towards the Gulf of Darien, to Sarsadee, 
another considerable station of the Indians, where 
we purchased a few hundred weights of tortoise- 
shell, and a quantity of cocoa. The natives here, 
mise abundance of plantains, bananas, maize, cassava, 
and all the other productions of this prolific climate ; 
—abundance of the finest green turtle are caught 
close to the settlement ; vessels, trading to San 
Bias, also find here an excellent harbour, and a 
greater variety of refreshments than they can pos- 
sibly consume. 

We next visited New Caledonia, the site of the 
settlement attempted to be formed, by the famous 
Scotch Darien Company, in the years 1698 and 
1699. The ruins of the fort and houses, are 
still veiy visible ; the harbour is excellent, and 
there seems to be no want of provisions in the 
country, in the rivers, and in the sea. Had this 
magnificent project been properly seconded, or not 
injudiciously opposed, by the English nation and 
King William's Dutch subjects, the result might, 
at the present day, in spite of the opposition of 
Spain, have been glorious to England, eclipsing 



38 THE DARIEN COMPANY. 

the splendour of the other gi'eat schemes of the 
Bank of England and the East India Company, 
also established about that time ; — whose directors 
were eminently indebted to its projector, the ill- 
requited Patterson, for many of those ideas, in 
which have originated, the present prosperity and 
power, of those great national corporations. 

As the particulars of this extraordinary but un- 
fortunate man's favourite scheme, are now almost 
forgotten, it may not be improper, in this narrative, 
to give a brief sketch of it, taken principally from 
the writings of an author who had access to the 
papers of the Company, " some of which are pre- 
served in the Advocates Library in Edinbm'gh, 
and others in the Exchequer there ; and to the 
family papers, of many who were the chief actors 
in the Company's afFau's. " * 

Patterson, the son of a farmer in Dumfries- 
shire in Scotland, was educated for the church, and 
fiist visited the Western world under pretence of 
converting the Indians ; he was acquainted with 
Wafer and Dampier, but got most of his informa- 
tion from the old Buccaneers. At Acta, between 
Porto-Bello and Carthagena, towards the Gulf of 
Darien, he found a natural harbour, capable of 
containing a large fleet, and having a promontory - 
commanding its entrance. At first, Patterson of- 
fered his plans to merchants in London, who dis- 
couraged him ; afterwards to others on the conti- 
lient of Europe, who also treated him illiberally. 

* Dalrymple, Memoirs of his own times. The reader 
will find, also, many interesting particulars regarding this 
ill-fated expedition, in a work lately edited by the Rev. Dr 
M^Crie, intituled " Memoirs of Mr William Veitch and 
George Brysson, written by themselves, &c. Edinburgh, 
1825, 8vo, pp. 223—251. 



THE DARIEN COMPANY. 39 

TJie Elector of Brandenburgh listened to him, but 
afterwards would do nothing. At last the san- 
guine and energetic Fletcher of Salton, brought 
him forward, and introduced him to the Marquis 
of Tw^eeddale. The Master of Stair and Mr John- 
ston, the two secretaries of State, for Scotland, also 
patronized him ; and, through the means of the 
friends thus procured, a statute of Parliament was 
passed, in the year 1695, and in terms thereof, 
a charter from the crown obtained, for creat- 
ing a trading company to Africa and the New 
World, granting " power to plant colonies and 
build forts, with consent of the inhabitants, in 
places not possessed by any European nations. '' 

A subscription opened, and four hundred thou- 
sand pounds, a great sum at that period, was in- 
stantly subscribed. Patterson's project, which 
had been timidly considered " by people in pri- 
vate, filled them with hope when it came to them 
on the wings of public fame. " * Two or three 
respectable individuals being deputed to receive 
subscriptions in England, and on the Continent — 
the English subscribed 300,000/., and the Dutch 
and Hamburghers 200,000/. more. Patterson 
was to have received for his remuneration two per 
cent, on the stock, and three per cent, on the pro- 
fits ; but when he saw the magnitude of the sub- 
scription, in the generous spirit which belongs to 
genius, he gave a free discharge of his claims. 

In the meantime the jealousy of trade, " which 
has done more mischief to the trade of England 
than all other causes put together, '* created an 
alarm in England; and Pailiament, without any 

* Dalrymple*s Memoirs. 



40 THE DARIEN COMPANY. 

cortsideratioii, petitioned the King against it, on 
the 13th December 1695, as detrimental to the 
new East India Company. No committee of Par- 
liament, or inquiry, was instituted ; the King was 
induced to set his face against it, and the English 
and Hamburghers immediately withdrew their sub- 
scriptions. 

The Scotch, however, persevered, and boldly 
defended their rights. They built six ships in 
Holland, of from thirty-six to sixty guns each — 
and on the 26th July 1698, twelve hundred 
men sailed from Leith in five stout ships ; and al- 
though these men could have forcibly gone from 
the northmost part of Mexico to the southmost of 
Chili, " they used no force with the natives, but, 
in all tlieir transactions, acted fairly and honour- 
ably in every respect ; and their first act, which 
originated in the advice of Patterson, was to pro- 
claim yr^eo?!aw of trade and religioji to all nations! 

The Colonists, in their first letter to the Coun- 
cil of Directors, represent, that " As to the country, 
we find it very healthy; for although we arrived here 
in the rainy season, from which we had little or no 
shelter for several weeks together, and many sick 
among us, yet they 'are so far recovered, and in so 
good a state of health, as could hardly be expect- 
ed any where among such a number of men to- 
gether. " A variety of papers of the Company, 
in the Adv^ocates Library, prove that the soil was 
good, the climate healthy, and the passage from 
sea to sea not difficult. 

The colonists lingered eight months, looking in 
vain for that assistance from Scotland, which the 
difficulties thrown in the way of the Company's 
operations prevented being sent ; and falling short 



THE DARIEN COMPANY. 41 

of provisions, although the Indians, by hunting and 
fishing for them, generously gave them that tem- 
porary relief which fellow Britons refused, almost 
all of them quitted the settlement. 

In the mean time, the active enmity of the 
Spaniards, and other enemies of the Company, 
provoked the Scotch to send out a reinforcement 
of thirteen hundred men ; but this expedition was 
hastily got up, and ill provisioned. They arrived 
at different times, broken in health, and dispirited 
at the situation in which they found the settle- 
ment ; to add to their misfortunes, it has been 
said, that certain gloomy and bigoted preachers 
exhausted the spirits of the people, and spread 
divisions and discontent amongst them. In the 
mean time, the most active and inveterate enmity 
and opposition to the Company continued to show 
itself in England. 

The last party from Scotland that joined the 
second colony, after it had been three months set- 
tled, was Captain Campbell of Finab, with a com- 
pany of the people of his own estate, whom he 
had commanded in Flanders. This brave gentle- 
man marched to Fubucantee the second day after 
his arrival, and, with two hundred men, attacked 
and defeated, with great slaughter, a Spanish force 
of sixteen hundred men, which had been collected 
to destroy the colony. On the fifth day he re- 
turned to the fort with very little loss, but found 
eleven Spanish ships blockading the harbour, their 
troops landed, and almost all hope of help or pro- 
visions cut off. He stood a siege of six weeks, 
till the enemy, by their approaches, cut off his 
wells ; and the garrison, after melting even thei 
c 2 



42 SAN BLAS. 

pewter dishes into bullets, were forced to capitu- 
late on honourable terms. Many misfortunes be- 
fel them on their way home ; the Spaniards show- 
ed them generous kindness, while the English 
treated them with the most inveterate enmity and 
malice. 

The whole were completely dispersed, and only 
Captain Campbell's, and another small ship, with 
about thirty men of the whole colony, retunied to 
Scotland, where they found Patterson labouring 
for the reestablishment of the Company's affairs. 
He survived many yeai*s in Scotland, pitied and 
neglected, but always respected. 

Engl^id, by the imprudence of causing the ruin 
of that settlement, lost the opportunity of securing 
to herself, gieater commercial power, than will pro- 
bably ever again present itself, to any nation what- 
soever. There are times, when schemes the most 
visionary, may succeed ; and if Spain and England 
had, at that time, joined in opening a passage 
through the Isthmus of Darien, the situation of 
the former, might at the present day, have been 
very different ; and the efforts of these ill-inform- 
ed and inadequate companies, which have recent- 
ly been got up, in various quaiters, for the pur- 
pose of effecting a junction canal, between the 
two great oceans, would have been rendered un- 
necessary ; efforts which now can hardly succeed, 
unless heai'tily seconded, and powerfully patronized, 
by all the leading nations of Europe and America. 

Having made several later voyages to San Bias 
in the Clara, I had good opportunity of inquiring 
into the manners and customs of the natives of 
this Isthmus, who appear to be a distinct race of 
people from the Valiente and other Indians of the 



SAN BLAS INDIANS. 4S 

Rio Beiing, Chrico Mola, Chiriqui, and other 
places to the northwaid. They are much shorter 
in stature, few of them exceeding five feet two or 
three inches in height ; but they have full chests, 
broad shoulders, and are exceedingly active ; their 
foreheads are low, and rather flat ; their eyes small, 
and generally of a black or dai'k brown colour ; 
their cheek bones broad and full ; the lips not 
very thick. They suffer the hair on their heads, 
which is coarse, black, and often worn tied behind 
the head, or in queue, to gi'ow to a great length ; 
but they cai'efully eradicate it fi'om all other parts ^ 
of the body. The colour of their skin is a dusky 
yellow, peculiar to the inhabitants of this pait of 
America. There are some instances of Albinos be- 
ing produced amongst them ; and in one of my voy- 
ages to the Darien Gulf, I saw, at the River Coco, 
a child of about five years or " seasons, " old, per- 
fectly white, but without any apparent defect in 
its sight, as the Albinos are generally represented 
to have. The San Bias men are an active hardy 
race of people, extremely jealous of their indepen- 
dence, which they have hitherto strenuously main- 
tained ; and, what is not very common among the 
other Indians of South America, they are fond 
and cai'eful of their women. Some of these ladies 
accompanied their chiefs on board the vessel. They 
were clothed in ^Tappers of blue baftas, or strip- 
ped cotton of their own manufacture, reaching 
from the breast to a little lower than the calf of 
the leg. They wore a profusion of small glass 
beads round their ankles, forming a band of from 
two to three and a half inches deep, and similar 
bands or bracelets were worked round the wrists. 
Their ears were pierced, as well as the cartilage of 



44 SAN BLAS INDIANS. «, 

the nose, in which they wore rings of gold or sil-^ ' 
ver ; the ear-iings principally supplied by the Ja- 
maica traders — the nose jewels seem to be of their 
own manufacture, being a thick ring of gold in 
the form of an obtuse triangle, about three quar- 
ters of an inch in circumference. On their necks, 
they wore an immense quantity of line seed beads 
of lively colours, and necklaces of red coral. Some 
of those worn by the chiefmens wives, would alone 
weigh several pounds. Their hair, which is very 
long and black, was made up not inelegantly, and 
fastened on the top of the head with a sort of bod- 
kin made of tortoise-shell, or haid wood. Their 
complexion is much clearer and brighter than 
that of the men. Over the head was thrown 
a piece of blue bafta or sahempore, complete- 
ly covering the back, breasts, and one side of 
the face. Altogether, the deportment of these 
women was extremely modest, diffident, and ami- 
able.' Their husbands are exceedingly jealous of 
strangers, and that is said to be one of their reasons 
for refusing to allow Europeans to settle on the 
mainland. Their trading intercourse is always 
carried on at one of the numerous kays or islands 
on the coast, selected at the time for that pm*pose. 
Perhaps this custom, may in some measure be ow- 
ing to the necessity which they are under, of guard- 
ing with great vigilance, against their neighbours 
the Spaniards, to whom they bear the most in- 
veterate enmity. No Spanish vessel ever fell in- 
to their power, whose crew was permitted to escape, 
when any of them have the misfortune to suffer 
shipwreck on this part of the coast, — the massacre 
of the crew is, under every circumstance, the ine- 
vitable consequence. During one of my subse- 



RIVERS, FORESTS, GAME. AS 

quent trading voyages to this quarter, a fkie Spa- 
nish copper-bottomed schooner, of about one hun- 
dred and twenty tons burden, laden with wine, 
rice, maize, sugar, bricks, and- jerked beef, ran a- 
ground during the night, on a reef of rocks, a little 
to the north-east of the great Playone river. The 
crew, knowing the inevitable consequence of be- 
ing discovered in the morning, took to their boats 
during the night, and reached Porto Bello. The 
vessel being strong, and substantially built, beat 
fairly over the reef, without suffering much da- 
mage. The Indians, immediately on discovering 
the accident, boarded and plundered her, cutting 
away the masts, bowsprit, &c., for the mere pur- 
pose of securing the iron works, by rendering her 
useless. They regretted that the crew had made 
their escape. The hull of the vessel was aftei- 
wards r-emoved to Needle Kay, and I used it as 
a hulk, by which to heave down a vessel, under 
my command. 

It is to be regretted that this part of the Isth- 
mus is still so little known. I have been assured 
by many intelligent Indians, worthy of confidence, 
that one of the rivers on which they are settled, 
has its source in a kind of lake, or^^lagoon, within 
only about eight miles of the Pacific. The forests 
of San Bias, produce some very valuable woods, 
amongst which may be enumerated fustic, cedar, 
ironwood, ebony, brazilletto, lancewood, spars, and 
a variety of hard woods, well adapted for the use of 
cabinetmakars, but hitherto very little known, 
The interior abounds in game of various descrip- 
tions, amongst which are the tapir, or mountain 
cow, the waree, peccary, gibeonite, Indian coney, 
antelope, armadillo, and others; also currassow. 



4(j IIAV.KSBILL TURTLE. 

giiani, coquericot, partridge, and a great variety of 
other birds. No rivers or coast in the world can 
pro<luce a greater variety of excellent fish, or finer 
tujtle ; and the quantity seems inexhaustible. Cocoa- 
nut trees are never cut down, nor destroyed by 
the Indians of San Bias ; and are so abundant on 
all the kays, that the fruit is esteemed of little 
value, except on account of the oil, which the na- 
tives extract and use for dressing their hair, burn- 
ing in lamps, and other purposes. Any quantity 
of these nuts, may be procured at a very trifling ex- 
pense. 

The inhabitants of this part of the coast, are 
careful to preserve the hawksbill turtle, as much as 
they possibly can. They never destroy its eggs, 
and have a singular, but cruel method, of taking 
the shell from its back, without killing the ani- 
mal, as is done by the other tribes. They collect 
a quantity of dry grass, or leaves, with which they 
cover the creature's back, and then setting the 
stuff on fire, the heat causes the shell on the back 
to separate at the joints. A lai'ge knife is then 
insinuated horizontally, and the pieces ai*e gi*adu- 
ally lifted from the back, care being taken, not to 
injure the shell by two much heat, nor to force it 
off, till the heat has fully prepared it for separation. 

The turtle is held down by an Indian dming 
this cruel operation, and afterwards suffered to 
escape ; but great numbers of them, reduced to 
this helpless state, fall a prey to the numerous 
shai'ks on the coast. There have been many in- 
stances, however, of turtle being afterwards caught, 
which had undergone the process, and the shell, 
subsequently formed, has, instead of thirteen pieces, 
tlie usual number, been in one piece only. 



INDIAN MANNER OF FISHING. 4/ 

Traders, who are not judges of fustic, are often 
cheated, by having a kind of spurious, or bastai'd 
wood without dye, imposed upon them ; and they 
themselves too often deteriorate the quality of the 
genuine wood, by immersing it, during their stay, 
in salt water, to increase its weight. These prac- 
tices, together with the circumstance, that a great 
quantity of inferior wood is cut in low, swampy 
places, has depreciated the character of that which 
is collected here ; but I am perfectly satisfied, 
that the fustic of the high land of the Isthmus, is 
as valuable as that of Cuba, Jamaica, or any other 
place whatsoever. 

The natives are excellent hunters and strikers 
of fish. One of their methods of fishing is rather 
singular. The water on their coasts being very 
clear, they can easily see the fish basking, or swim- 
ming near the suiface, or in the shallow places ; 
and they kill considerable numbers, by following 
them in canoes, and shooting them with arrows. 
The women and children plant and cultivate In- 
dian corn, cassava, plantaia, and other provisions, 
the mens task being to cut down wood, prepare it 
for sale, or other purposes, and to clear ground for 
plantations. They are not so much addicted to 
spirituous liquors as some of the other Indians of 
the coast ; and they use their own chicka, or li- 
quor made from corn, cassava, and plantains, in 
preference to rum. They have in general but one 
wife, although there are some among them who, 
according to their inclination and ability to main- 
tain them, have four or five. Their houses are 
constructed at a short distance from each other. 
Every wife has, in general, a separate house or hut, 
and they live on friendly terms with their neigh- 



48 SOOKEAH MEN OR PRIESTS. 

hours. The hushand usually takes up his resi- 
dence with the eldest, who considers it her duty 
to set the others a good example, and main- 
tain a friendly communication in the family, by 
zealously directing their attention to his comfort 
and convenience. Sometimes although not of- 
ten, they are all kept in one house, except 
during an advanced period of pregnancy, con- 
finement, or suckling their chiMren, at which 
season they invariably live by themselves. At the 
expected time, the woman, as is customary witli 
most Indian tribes, retires to a hut built in tlie 
woods, at a distance from the rest of the family* 
There, she remains some time assisted by some 
aged female relation, who is closely secluded with 
her. The period of travail is short, compared to^ 
what is generally experienced in civilized life ; and 
previous to returning to their usual intercourse 
with the family, a sort of public lustration of them- 
selves and offspring takes place. 

The persons of greatest consequence, next to 
the principal chiefs, are the Sookeah-men, who are 
both physicians and priests. These persons, are 
supposed to hold communication with an invisible 
agent, or great spirit, and to be empowered, through 
its means, to foretel events. They have acquired 
a knowledge of the medicinal virtues of some 
plants, and are thereby enabled to cure wounds, 
and also some of the disorders incident to the cli- 
mate. They are, consequently, held in much esteem 
and veneration, by the more ignorant natives. Pre- 
vious to being received as professed sookeahs, 
thev are secluded, some times for months, in the 
w oods, without, as is said, holding the least com- 
munication with any one; and here it is that 



SOOKBAH MEN. 49 

they ai'e alleged to have intercourse with the spirit 
alluded to. They are deep, shrewd, and compa- 
ratively intelligent men, and, having once acquired 
an ascendancy at home, their fame soon extends 
to the neighbouring tribes. 

I have often heard, and have no doubt what- 
ever of the fact, that they have been known to 
dance, in a state of nudity, in the middle of a 
large fire, the flames having little or no effect on 
their body ; and they generally do this until the 
fire is extinguished. The effects of the fire is re- 
sisted by some powerful antidote, extracted from 
vegetable substances, the preparation of which is 
only known to the superior sookeahs* 

All their knowledge, however, has been insuf- 
ficient to contend with the diseases introduced by 
Europeans, many of the natives having been car- 
ried off by the small-pox, measles, and other com- 
plaints for which they know no cure, and by which 
their numbers have been greatly reduced. On the 
fii"st appearance of the measles or small-pox, which 
have proved as destructive to these poor Indians 
as the plague has been to the inhabitants of other 
quartei-s of the globe, they abandon their settle- 
ments, and fly to some of the numerous kays on 
the coast for the benefit of free air ; on one of 
these the infected are carefully secluded, and shun- 
ned, until they are free from the disease ; — death 
however generally puts an end to their sufferings. 

The Mosquito-men have repeatedly attempted 
to acquire an ascendancy over the San Bias Indians, 
and much blood, in consequence, has been shed. 
The last expedition against the latter, took place 
about twenty years ago. It consisted of about 
D 2 



^^ CARET. 

three hundi-ed men, who were neaiiy all cut off in 
the different engagements that took place in the 
disadvantageous positions into which they wer« 
enticed. Very few of the assailants returned to 
their own country ; and it is, therefore, not likely 
that any similar attempt will again be made from 
the Mosquito-shore. 

How far it may be the policy of the new Go- 
vernments of South America to endeavour to con- 
ciliate these and other free and independent tribes, 
remains to be seen ; but, judging from some of the 
recent decrees of Colombia, it is much to be feared 
their value is not justly appreciated. By restric- 
tions imposed on their trade, and otherwise, they 
may continue to regaid the Colombians as no bet- 
ter than Spaniards ; and if so, the consequences 
cannot but be injurious to both parties. Theix' 
country is naturally so strong, and the lagoons and 
harbours so very intricate, that contrabandists, pri* 
Tateers, or pirates, — if on friendly terms with tha 
Indians— can always find shelter ; and the trade 
to Carthagena, Porto Bello, &c. may, cansequent- 
ly, at any time meet with interruption and injury. 
This part of the Isthmus of Darien presents a fine 
field for the reseaixhes of the industrious and sci* 
entific traveller; and, no doubt, many very im« 
portant discoveries, botanical, mineralogical, anU 
otherwise, remain to be made by those who have 
inclination and ability to explore it. 

To return to our commercial operations — Hav^ 
ing left New Caledonia, we proceeded to Caret, 
Vhere we disposed of the last of our goods, in 
barter for cocoa, with which we completed the 
cargo of the two Bongos, and came back in safety 
to the vessel, at Needle Kav. During our ab- 



RETURN to JAMAICA. 51 

sence, the trader had maintained the most friendly 
correspondence with the natives, and had collected 
ahout one hundred tons of fustic, besides other 
more valuable produce, sufficient for a return cargo, 
with which we safely arrived in Jamaica, after an 
absence of about nine weeks. 

In my subsequent voyages to this coast, I al- 
ways found the Indians anxious and willing to pro- 
mote the success of the vessels I commanded. In 
general, they became much attached to those who 
visit them repeatedly. Every succeeding voyage 
improves their friendship, and desire to encourage 
the commercial interests of their country, so far as 
theii' ignorance and inexperience will allow them 
to judge of it. 



d2 



CHAPTER III. 

VOYAGE TO CHIRIQUI t AGOON-^PORTo' BELLO 
— MOSQUITO SHORE — CHRICO MOLA — RESI- 
DENCE THERE SARSAPARILLA — EXCURSIONS 

IN THE INTERIOR^— STORY, OF A GOLD SEEKER 
—HUNTING PARTY— VIEW OF THE ATLANTIC 
AND PACIFIC — VISIT FROM A SLOOP OF WAR 
—CHARACTER, AND CUSTOMS OF THE VALI- 
ENTES — SOUPA TREE — SERPENTS — BUCGA- 
NIERS — CHXLIBEE, TIRI3EE, AND BLANCO 
INDIANS. 

In the year 1817, my voyages to San Bias were 
interrupted by severe indisposition, which i-educed 
me to a state of great debility. When convales- 
cent, I accepted the offer of a friend, to accom- 
pany him on a general tiadiug voyage to the Bight 
of Mandingo, and different parts of the Mosquito 
Shore. His object was to lodge supplies of goods, 
with his agents, at various trading depots ; and to 
bring away from them, sucli quantities of fustic, 
tortoise-shell, sarsaparilla, cocoa, &c. as they had 
collected ; afterwards, to sell the remainder of his 
diy goods^ to the Spaniaids at Codec, Gold River, 



PORTO BELLO. 53 

Matina, and at the River San Juan de Nicaragua, 
for specie and gold dust. We accordingly pro- 
ceeded to the coast of San Bias, and transacted 
business at New Caledonia, the River Mosquito, 
Sarsadee, and the Bight of Mandingo, — receiving 
considerable quantities of tortoise-shell, cocoa, and 
other valuable produce. Returning from the coast 
of San Bias, we passed Porto Bello, * and pro- 
ceeded to Chiriqui Lagoon ; which, although so 
far to the southward, is considered part of the 
Mosquito Shore, under the jurisdiction of the 
Mosquito King ; who, notwithstanding that the 
Spaniards consider it a part of their province of 
Veragua, annually sends his admiral to collect tri- 
bute from the natives* Veragua joins Costa Rica 
a few miles to the westward of Boco del Toro, or 
the Bahia del Amirante. Costa Rica extends to 
Punta del Gordo, which is a short distance to the 
northward of the Rio de San Juan ; and, may be 
considered, the boundary of the real, and nomi- 
nal, Spanish possessions on that part of the coast. 
At Point de Gordo, the Mosquito shore proper 
may be said to commence ; and we here meet 
with the small independent tribe of Indians called 
the Ram as. From thence to Cape Gracias a 
Dios, where the Mosquito King principally re- 
sides, the coast lies nearly north and south, a dis- 
tance of about two hundred and twenty miles. 
From Cape Gracias a Dios, the shore extends 
nearly north-west and by west, to the River Pa- 
took ; and the distance is about one hundred miles. 
From thence to little Roman river, it stretches 

* See Note II. 

J)2 



5^ CHIRIQUI LAGOOK. 

to die west, about ninety miles ; formkig a sea 
board ov linQ of coast, of about four hundred and 
ten miles in extent, upon which the Spaniards 
have never been able to form any effective set- 
tlements. 

On our arrival at Chiriqui Lagoon, I gladly 
assented to a proposal, made by my friend, to 
ascend the River Chrico Mola (or perhaps more 
properly Chrickam Aula), about twenty-five miles, 
to the principal settlement of the Valiente Indians ; 
a station said to be exceedingly healthy — there to 
remain for the recovery of my health — become 
acquainted with the manners and customs of that 
tribe, and open a trade with tlia Indians in the 
interior of the country. 

Having selected, and hired, three large canoe^ 
from those which were assembled round the ves- 
sel, we loaded them with goods to the value of 
about three hundred pounds ; and, at noon, set off 
for the Valiente Settlement, where my friend had 
already formed a connexion with one of the nati^ 
traders, 

I found that the river has two mouths, formed 
by a small island at its entrance ; — the one to the 
westward is broadest, having only about two feet 
water on the bar i the other, three feet — ^AftcF 
passing these entrances, it is of considerable depth 
lip to the fii'st rapid ; a distance of about twelve 
miles* 

At this rapid the land rises high on each side ; 
and, up to the settlement, the river is so full of 
falls, rocks, and rapids, that it would be totally 
impossible for pei-sons, unaccustomed to such places, 
to ascend even in the lightest canoes.— The In- 



WHYKKE TARRA. i)5 

dians are obliged in the ascent, frequently to lay 
aside their paddles and use poles ; — and at some 
places even to haul their canoes, over the rapids, 
by strength of arr^, — whicJi the force of the cur- 
rent renders no easy task ; — the smooth rocks, and 
rounded stones, making it difficult to find a secure 
footing. — Between these rapids, however, there are 
many reaches, or smooth and deep parts of the 
river, some of them about a mile in length ; and, 
the banks being covered by a variety of majestic 
trees and shi-ubs of the most lively colours, nothing 
of the kind which I have ever seen was more beau- 
tiful or picturesque. — After passing many falls and 
mpids, we came to the first Valiente Settlement. 
— The houses are situated at a small distance from 
the river ; and are surrounded by large plantations 
of plantains, bananas, cassava, and cocoa. 

Above the fii'st settlement, the land continues 
gradually to extend ; and, at the distance of about 
thirty miles, assumes a mountainous appearance. 
On the evening of the day following that odi 
which we left the vessel, we arrived at the tmder's 
bouse, situated on a moderately high bank close 
to the liver. My new friend, Whykee Tarra, the 
trader alluded to, being informed of my intention 
to remain with his countrymen, received me very 
cordially, and made preparations for obeying the 
orders I had brought to him ; viz. to proceed to 
the vessel with the goods he had collected ; and 
to give his assistance in collecting tortoise-shell on 
the coast. 

After having given me possession of his house, 
and desired his wife, who understood a little Eng- 
lish, to pay eveiy attention to my domestic com- 



56 CHRICO MOLA. 

forts, and to assist me as an intei*preter in my in-i 
tercourse with the natives, he departed for the la*- 
goon, taking with him a considerable stock of 
hogs, poultry, eggs, and plantains for the use of 
the crew. 

Being thus installed in my new lodgings, and 
the chief man of the place being made acquainted 
with my intentions, a messenger was, by his ad- 
vice, sent to give notice to the Indians residing in 
the interior, that an English trader had come to 
live among them. On his return, he informed me 
that in two or three days many of these Indians 
would visit me, bringing sarsaparilla, and such other 
articles as they had to offer for sale. 

I accordingly soon received visits from several 
families, sometimes from ten to twenty in a groups 
each person bringing from fifty to eighty pounds 
weight of sarsaparilla, * in large bags made of silk 
grass, having a large band of the same mateiial 
fastened across its mouth. — These bags, when fill- 
ed, appeared like baskets, of which the band form- 
ed the handle ; and they were suspended on the 
back of the Indian by this handle put across the 
forehead ; — Women and children were loaded in a 
similar manner, in proportion to their strength. 

Abundance of fowls, and some fine hogs were 
brought me, and also a great many extremely neat 
bags, or purses, of various sizes, made of silk 
grass, and dyed of various bright colours, — some 
of the threads nearly as fine as lace. 

Scarlet, blue, yellow, and purple, were the most 
predominant colours ; and, when newly dyed, they 
appeared very fresh and bright, but did not stand 

* Smilax Sarsaparilla of Liini. 



MONTANO INDIANS. S7 

the rain or weath^, which shows^ that although 
the Indiana possess some very yaluahle dyes, they 
have not the secrel of rendering them durable. 
They also brought me a number of small lines, 
from twenty to thirty fathoms in lengtl], made of 
the interwoven fibres of cotton and silk grajss. 
These they are In the habit of haltering with tlie 
fisliing Indians of the coast, who use them as strike 
ing lines for securiag turtle, &c, I gave in 
barter for these articles, fish hooks, glass beads, 
small Dutch looking-glasses, eeamens* knives, and 
other articles of little value. 

The Indians on the coast think themselves en- 
titled to assume a superiority over these " Mon-? 
feinios ** in consequence of the connexion of the 
former with the traders. So far as regarded my- 
self, I found these natives of the interior, harmless, 
inoffensive, honest in their dealings, and satisfied 
with whatever was given to them in exchange for 
the commodities they brought- It is true, that 
many of these commodities were perfectly useless 
to' me, but I made it a rule never to refuse any 
thing offered, or to send the persons home entirely 
disappointed in their expectations. On such an 
occasion a few beads, a small looking-glass, a bit 
of tobacco, and a few pipes, or gome othey trifle, 
gatisfied and pleased them. 

Many of the people, who then and subsequent- 
ly visited me, came, as I was told, and had every 
reason to believe, from the low country, border- 
ing on the Pacific Ocean ; having crossed the moun- 
tains about thirty miles above this settlemenJ^ 
These mountains are of considerable elevation, 
covered with wood to the summits, and form 
the natuml boundary be^weeu the Valient^^, and 



58 SARSAPARILtA. 

those Indians who occasionally trade with the 
Spaniai-ds. 

Sarsaparilla being one of the principal articles 
of trade with tliese people, and its virtues, as a 
medicine, becoming every day more popular in 
Europe, I may here remark, that the kind which 
is collected in the B:ivannahs is more esteemed 
than that vvliich is brought from the mountains ; 
being much thicker, and containing a greater 
quantity of medicinal substance. The latter sort 
is so fibrous, that it is rare to see a stalk the thick- 
ness of the stem of an ordinary tobacco-pipe, and 
much of it is spoiled, by being dried in an artifi- 
cial, careless, and hasty manner, instead of by a 
regular and gradual exposure to the sun : — by the 
former method it is frequently scorched, or be- 
comes so black and discoloured, as to be nearly 
useless ; — on the accession of the least damp, it is 
apt to become mouldy, its essential qualities spoil, 
and it is then totally unfit for use. 

After I had resided some time at Chrico Mola, 
the Indians from tlie south side of the mountains 
frequently brought me Spanish money and pieces 
of silver, for the purchase of iron pots, cutlass 
blades, earthen ware, and dry goods. Many of 
these Indians have incurred the jealousy of the 
Valientes, who dislike their familiar intercourse 
with the Spaniards. Their quarrels on this sub- 
ject often end in bloodshed, and the Valientes 
seldom approach, or trust themselves within reach 
of the Spanish territory. * 

From my first arrival at Chrico Mola, I gradual- 
ly acquired bodily sti*ength, — and I followed the 
example of the inhabitants, old and young, by 
daily bathing in the river, which is here as clear 
* See Note III. 



SARSAPARILLA. 59 

as crystal, and pleasantly cool. Alligators do 
not ascend higher than the first fail, so that tliere 
is no danger of annoyance from them, and to these 
frequent ablutions I attributed, in a great mea-' 
sure, my rapid recovery to perfect health. 

In less than six weeks after my arrival I had 
procui-ed upwards of five thousand pounds weight 
of sarsapariila ; and conceiving that a regular sup- 
ply of tliis valuable article might be obtained here 
for supplying the Jamaica market, provided the 
Indians were properly encouraged to collect it, I 
came to tlie determination of remaining at Chrico 
Mola, until next season at least. On the return 
of the vessel which had left me here, I went down 
to the Lagoon and communicated my ideas on the 
subject to he rowner, who, forseeing the advanta- 
ges likely to be derived from the residence of a 
European among the Valientes, immediately as-^ 
sented to my proposal. Having delivered over to 
him the produce that I had collected, I received 
a farther supply of the goods which I considered 
necessary, for the consumption of the natives, un- 
til he should return. It was not without some 
doubt of my own prudence that I found myself 
and property, entirely at the mercy of my new 
friends : — I had however acquired considerable 
confidence with the headmen, who, in one of their 
Talks, or Councils, came to a resolution to give 
me every protection, and all the facilities in their 
power, for trading ; and, as a farther proof of their 
good will, the principal headman offered me au 
Indian wife, and every other accommodation. 

As I recovered strength, having much leisure 

time on my hands, and having always been o id of 

I ' hunting and fishing, I gradually extended njy ram- 



60 GOLD SEEKER, 

bles into die inteiioF. With the aesistsavce of a 
small pocket compass, I had little feai* of losing 
myself ; and, becoming acquainted with the Indian 
tracks, I often penetrated many miles into the 
woods, reaching solitudes where, apparently, no 
human being had ever preceded me. I had often 
heard that gold might be found in abundance, 
in the country about Clu'ico Mola, and that 
the old Indians, were well acquainted with the 
places, where it ha^ been discovered. Their jea- 
lousy of strangers, and their dread of exciting the 
cupidity of the Spaniards, induces them, how- 
ever, carefully to conceal this knowledge, and the 
following occurence which took place a few years 
ago, is illustrative of this feeling on their part. A 
Mulatto, from Jamaica, of the name of Wedder- 
burn, who had been some time resident at Chrico 
Mola was in the habit of trading at places where 
he occasionally met with Spaniards. He became 
acquainted, in one of his excursions, with a 
Spanish Creole, who, having become disgusted 
with his employers, proprietors of a gold mine 
about twenty miles up Gold River, and about 
thirty fi'om Valiente Point, agreed to accompany 
the trader, and take up his residence at Chrico 
Mola. Shortly after his arrival he discovered in- 
dications of gold in the vicinity of the river, and, 
by absenting himself for several hours every day, 
attracted the notice of the trader, to whom he con- 
fessed that he had discovered gold ; and, with the 
help of an old crow-bar, had already dug up and 
collected several ounces. He was either not 
awai'e of the jealousy of the natives, or had not 
used the precaution necessary to elude their ob- 
servation. One of thexn called a Council of the 



EXCURSIONS INTO TUB INTEBIOR. 61 

hefKlmcn^ who next day sent for the tradei:, ajid 
demanded that the Spaniard should be given up to 
them, to be sent out of the country. He was as- 
sured that no harm should happen, and that a ca*- 
noe and every thing requisite to enable his friend 
to reach Portobello, or some other place of safety, 
should be granted to him. Accordingly he de- 
parted, accompanied by some of the natives, wlio 
were to see him safely out of the river. They re- 
turned in two days, but the Spaniard was never 
again heard of by any of the traders ; and, I have 
no doubt, they put him to death, to avoid the risk 
of any annoyance from Europeans on account of 
the gold mines in their country. Notwithstand- 
ing this example, I often, in my hunting rambles, 
stopped to look for gold, particularly w^hen my 
path has been obstructed by deep ravines and old 
dried up water-courses from the mountains ; but 
I was then unacquainted with the indications of 
this precious metal ; and I never considered it safe, 
or pnident, to remain stationary for any length of 
time, in these solitary places, so remote from the 
habitations of men* 

On my return from one of these excursions the 
chief man, of the settlement, named by the traders 
Jasper Hall, told me, that some of the women 
had discovered the track of an extraordinary ani- 
mal, which had filled them with much apprehen- 
sion; and that none of the hunters could make 
out, from their description, what it was ; the wo- 
men insisting that it could only be " Devils track." 
Tlie story excited my curiosity ; and not doubting 
but that it might prove to be that of some large 
animal, probably unloiown in Europe, I persuaded 



62 HUNTING PARTY. 

Lim to make up a hunting party and go in semeh 
of it. Jai^per, myself, and other three men, pro- 
vided with provisions and other materials to en- 
able us to remain a night or two in the woods if 
necessary, set out at day-break — well armed — 
and having three of the women with us to serve 
as guides. After proceeding more than four hours 
by an unusual route, we came to a deep ravine, 
which we ascended nearly a mile to a place where 
the tract had become visible. Here old Jasper 
burst into a loud laugh, calling out, " Hai Robert ! 
him devil tract found " — and on investigation it 
proved to be the marks of a pair of coarse hobb- 
nailed slioes, which I had worn on one of my long 
excursions. We had approached the ravine by a 
different path than that by which I had penetrat- 
ed, and I was amused to find that I had come so 
fai* in search of my own footsteps. 

I would not dwell upon this trifling occurrence, 
were it not that besides being descriptive of Indian 
life, it led to an excursion which I had often wish- 
ed to accomplish. We had seen several kinds of 
gam.e during our progress, but had not fired one 
shot, for fear of alarming the strange animal we 
sought. The women had brought plantains and 
cassava, and we now proposed to stay a day or 
two in the woods, and endeavour to procure some 
game to carry home with us. The Indians sooa 
erected some rude huts on the spot, and the wo- 
men were left to cover the roofs with leaves of the 
wild plantain. We proceeded a considerable way 
tip the ravine, and at last heard the noise of the 
peccary or wild hog, and sliortly discovered a drove 
of nearly a hundred of them. We killed about 
twenty; and the noise of our fireairns having 



THE PECCARY. 63 

brougiit the women to our assistance, all hands 
were soon bnsily employed in cutting out the gland 
on the back of the animal, and dividing the carcass, 
into quarters, for the purpose of being harhacued* 
This operation is performed by erecting a low 
frame, or grating of wood, upon which the meat is 
laid, and covered with leaves ; a fire is lighted un- 
derneath, and the flesh is in this manner not only 
smoked, but sometimes half roasted^ before it is 
considered sufficiently cured* It will keep good 
during several weeks. 

The ears of the peccary are short, pointed, and 
erect; the eyes are sunk deep in the head, the 
neck is short and thick, the bristles are nearly as 
large as those of the hedgehog, — longest on the neck 
and back ; it is of a hoary black colour, annulate with 
white, having a coUai', from the shoulders to the 
breast, of dusky white ; — -in size, and colour, it 
something resembles the hog of China ; it has no 
tail, — on the back there is a glandulous opening, 
from wliich constantly distils a tlrln fetid liquor. 
If the animal is killed in the evening, this part 
carefully cut out, and the liquor instantly washed 
away, the flesh is agreeable food. They grunt 
with a strong harsh sound ; and, when vexed, make 
a most disagreeable noise with their tusks, which 
are scai'cely conspicuous when their mouth is shut. 
They will sometimes turn, with fury, on their 
assailant, whose best refuge, in that case, is to 
climb upon a tree, and then, if he has good dogs, 
to keep them in play — he may kill them at plea- 
sure so long as his ammunition lasts. They princi- 
pally feed on fruits seeds and roots; and some- 
times do much mischief in the plantain and cassava 
walks. 



64 VIEW OF THE 

We remaiucd al the huts all night, aiMl, next 
morning, leaving the women to conipleto the opera- 
tion of curing tlie produce of our labour, we re- 
newed our expedition. 

Having often heard that the Atlantic and Paci- 
fic Oceans could be seen at the same time from 
the summit of a mountain about tlurty miles from 
Chrico Mola, or twenty from tlie spot where wq 
now were, I was exceedingly desirous of ascer- 
taining the fact, and I persuaded Jasper to take 
tliat direction. Our way, in pursuing our route 
towards that point, was nearly free fiom undep- 
wood or any material impediment, unless when 
we met with ravines, . which are, iu some places, 
wide, and the bottom and sides partly composed 
of large masses of rock. There were some deep 
pools of clear water in these hollows, in which I 
could perceive a number of small fish. In the 
I'ainy season when these ravines must by every ap- 
pearance contain an immense body of water, to 
ci'oss them will be impossible^ 

In the afternoon w^e succeeded in gaining the 
summit of the mountain, where I was well repaid 
for the great fatigue and trouble of ascending. It 
^id not terminate in any peak or cone, nor had it 
tlie particular appearance of volcanic origin, but 
was rather the continuation of a chain, or ridge 
of mountains, which rose higher than any of those 
jin the immediate neighbourhood. 

About five hundred yards across its summit, the 
descent, towards the Pacific, commences rather 
abruptly ; and, is more precipitous than on the side 
by which we ascended. Mountains still higher 
fppjsai:^d to the eastwatd in thc^ direction of Pana? 



ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC OCEANS. 65 

ma and Chagre. To the north-west, an immense 
and continued unbroken cliain of mountains ])re- 
sented tiiemselves as far as the eye could reach ; 
and, here and there, various high, isolated, peaks, 
having the appearance of volcanoes, sprung up 
from the cliain. / had a clear and distinct view 
of both seas ; many of the islands in the Boco del 
Toro and Chiriqui Lagoons on the Atlantic side, 
were distinctly seen, but I could not perceive Qui- 
bo, nor any of the islands on the Pacific, which I 
tliought would, if correctly laid down in the charts, 
have been visible. The immense forests of stately 
trees which vegetate on the sides of all rivers in 
this country, and clothe most of the mountains to 
their very summits, effectually prevented our tra- 
cing the course of these rivers ; nevertheless, the 
country, from the spot on which we obtained this 
ilelightful view, presented the map of an immense 
mountain forest, drawn on Nature's grandest scale. 

As night was fast approaching, and there is lit- 
tle twilight in this climate, the Indians became im- 
patient to descend ; and with regret, I left the 
ridge on which I had experienced such perfect en- 
joyment. We got down to a ravine, and having 
procured a quantity of wild plantain leaves, we 
ascended one of its sides, and, gathering wood, 
made a large fire, by the side of which we made 
©ur supper of the peccary meat, brought with us. 

I stretched myself upon my bed of leaves, and^ 
having commended myself to Him whose mighty 
works I had been admiring, and who, by his Pro- 
vidence, equally guides the Indian and European, 
I sunk into profound repose, with as complete a 
, feeling of security, as if I had been in the midst of 
E 2 



06 ARRVIAL OF THE 

civiflzSbtion, and suiTounded by numerous friendtj 
and relations. 

On the first appearance of dayliglU, wo put our 
guns in order, and descended the mountain at a 
quick pace. We shot several guams and curras- 
80 ws on our way down ; by mid- day came to 
the huts, and found the women in safety. Having 
rested and refreshed ourselves, we prepared for 
our journey homewards, each carrying- a propor- 
tion of the provisions and game, the produce of 
our hunt. We reached the settlement after sun- 
set, mucli fetigued, but highly pleased with the 
result of the expedition. 

Immediately on our return, I had a good 
opportunity of ascertaining how far the Valientes 
could be depended upon to repel any attempt of 
invasion from their enemies. I found the settle- 
ment in considerable alarm, and the whole popu- 
lation on the alert. A strange ship of war had 
arrived in the lagoon, and come to an anchor off 
the mouth of Chrico Mola river, after having fired 
at two Valiente fishing-canoes, as a signal, no 
doubt, to biing them to the ship ; but the In- 
dians, mistaking this for an indication of hostility, 
jumped overboard, swam ashore, and gave an alarm 
that the Spaniards were coming. A red flag had 
been hoisted, on a small island off the mouth of 
die river, probably as a signal to the natives to 
come to that place ; but when these people heard 
the dinims beat, and the evening gun fired, they 
concluded that they were to be attacked, espe- 
cially when a canoe returned with intelligence that 
they had seen a large boat, with armed Europeans, 
on its way down the river, a little beneath the 
fiirst iall. I found the Indians removing tieir wo- 



BRIG SHEERVVATER. 67 

men, children, and valuables, across tlic rivei*, to 
tlie woods for safety ; and, as I had at this thiie a 
very considerable quantity of tortoise-shell, sarsa- 
parilla, and other produce under my cliarge, I 
stated my opinion, that if they were Spaniards, of 
others coming with hostile intentions, it was pro- 
bable, that, having reconnoitred, they would at- 
tempt to force their way up, during the night, or 
early in the morning ; and, that if they were al- 
lowed to pass the falls, the destruction of the set- 
tlement was inevitable ; but that by fighting at 
each fall successively, we might easily defend our- 
selves not only against this ship, but any greater 
force likely to be sent against us. The Valientes 
seconded me with alacrity. I distributed among 
them all the fowling-pieces that I had for sale. 
Moreover, we mustered forty-three muskets and 
fowling-pieces, besides spears, bows and arrows, 
in the different houses along the river. I served 
out some kegs of gunpowder, and all the bullets, 
and Bristol blue shot, that I had in the store. The 
men were posted at the different falls, and if we 
had been attacked, all felt confident of the re- 
sult. In the morning a large armed canoe was 
sent down the river for intelligence, and met Cap- 
tain Cox with some of the ofhcers of his Majesty's 
brig Sheenvater, coming up the river in a large 
boat, conducted by three of the Valientes. Captain 
Cox informed me, that on his way down the coast 
to San Juan, he had, owing to calms and a strong 
west current, been carried to leeward of Boco del 
Toro ; and, heai-ing there was an English settlement 
at Chrico Mola, curiosity and a desire to be useful 
to his countrymen had induced him to endeavour 
to find them out, ITiese officers remained with me 



68 ^" CUSTOMS OF 

until next day ; curiosity liad attracted a number 
of the Valientes, who assembled about my bouse 
to see the strangers ; their deportment was or- 
derly ; the Valiente girls were much admired, and 
my countrymen were pleased to admit, that, alto- 
gether, the people were much superior to any 
tribe they had seen on the coast. When the cap- 
tain and his officers left me they expressed them- 
selves much pleased with the visit. I furnished 
them with such fresh provisions as I could collect 
upon so short a notice, giving them all the native 
curiosities I had collected, as well as those I could 
procure among my friends. The Indians, who 
accompanied them back to the vessel, brought me 
a present of tea, coffee, sugar, and v/ine ;— and, in 
return, I induced my friends to follow Captain 
Cox through the channel of the Split Hills, in the 
Boco del Toro Lagoon, with a few more dozens 
of fowls, plantains, &c. 

This visit created considerable speculation a- 
mong the Indians, whom I laboured hard to con- 
vince, that it was their interest to court a friendly 
communication with the British ; — that their coun- 
try contained many articles, very valuable in Bii- 
tisb commerce ; and, that they only required to be 
known, to be visited by large trading vessels di- 
rect from England. Upon the whole, this visit, 
and these representations, made a considerable im- 
pression on the minds of the natives ; and, subse- 
quently, in consequence of it, I stood much higher 
in their estimation. 

Several customs of the Valientes, seem peculiar 
to that race only. When one of them dies, the 
body is always buried in the floor of the house oc- 
cupied by the family ; the only exceptions to this 



THE VALIEKTES. 69 

ruliB, are when an Indian hm been stung k) tleath 
by a serpent, or slain in a quarrel witb one of his 
own tribe : — in either of these cases, they are in- 
terred under a house, in their own provision- 
ground, and their implements of war, and other 
moveables, are buried with tbem ; their canoe is 
also generally split in two, and laid on the grave. 
Moreover, even the plantain-walks and provisions 
on the grounds immediately belonging to such 
persons, are destroyed. At the death of a rela- 
tion, they manifest extraordinary grief, the women 
especially — who beat their bosoms, tear their hair, 
cut their flesh, and use other demonstrations of 
the most extravagant sorrow. The son, if there 
is one, succeeds to his father's house and women. 
The moveables, such as canoes, hunting and fish- 
ing implements, arms, trinkets, &c., are divided 
amongst his children. If there be no children, 
the eldest brother succeeds to every thing. The 
women have little choice in the disposal of their 
persons in marriage : that affair being always ar^ 
ranged by their father, or nearest male relations. 

The children, of both sexes, are early taught to 
ewim ; one of then* principal pastimes is sporting 
in the water, to which they resort almost as soon 
as they can walk. As they increase in years, 
they are instructed to use the bdw and arrow and 
the spear ; and they acquire dexterity by practis- 
ing with blunted instruments upon the fowls, dogs, 
or other domestic animals or birds, reared about 
the house. As they acquire strength, the boys, 
have other duties to perform ; they are taken to 
fish and spear turtle : on these expeditions they 
ai'e sometimes absent, with the men, three weeks 
pr a month ; and, on returning, they alwap divi4§ 



1 



70 CUSTOMS OF 

part of tlie spoil anions: their noighboirf 
friends. The girls are early taught to accompany 
their motliers to the provision grounds ; — to cany 
light burdens of wood, plantains, cassava and other 
articles ; — to grind corn, wash and ^prepare cotton 
and silk grass, and attend to other domestic offices* 
They, equally with the boys, bathe fiequently in 
course of the day ; but, from the age of six years, 
at which time they are generally betrothed, these 
ablutions are performed at a distance, under the 
protection of their mothers, who after that period, 
seldom allow their daughters to be out of their 
sight, until marriage, which generally takes place 
at the early age of ten or twelve years. 

When a Valiente Indian considers himself af- 
fronted, or injured, by one of liis own tribe, he 
deliberately sharpens his moscheat or cutlass; and, 
taking a friend witli him, goes to the house of his 
adversary, wliom he cliallenges to fair combat. 
The challenge is frequently accepted on the spot, 
fair play is allowed, and tlie duel never ends until 
one, or sometimes both, are killed or disabled. 

They display considerable dexterity in the use 
of the cutlass, both m attack and defence ; and it 
is rare to find a Valiente without the mark of deep 
cuts on his body, and particularly about the head. 
If the challenged party puts off tlie decision of 
the quarrel to a future day, it is generally made 
up, by the intervention of friends. Being " called 
out " by one of these slashing gentlemen, I insist- 
ed upon substituting rifle guns, a proposal which 
he declared " English fashion, no good ! " and, by 
the interference of friendfi, we settled our dispute 
without bloodshed. Few of them csn use fire- 
arms w^ith effect, but they are very expert Avith 



THE V/XLIENTES. 71 

the bow and arrow, and are good and dexterous 
bpearnien. 

They are ia general courageous, possess mucii 
sense of honour, and continue to merit the appel- 
lation given to them by their first discoverers, of 
" Indios Bravos " or " Valientes. " TJiey are a 
much taller rj^ce of people than those of San Bias, 
and ma^y, from their intercourse with European 
and other traders, be considered more civilized than 
most of the other tribes, inhabiting this part of 
Terra Firma. Their avowed hatred to the Spa- 
niards, and partiality to the English, as may 
be seen from what has already been stated on 
that subject, renders a temporary or periiaps per- 
manent trading settlement amongst them per- 
fectly secure ; and, in point of honesty, tliey 
are far superior to their neighbours the Mos- 
quito men, to whose king tliey, however, pay a 
sort of tribute, or acknowledgment, annually, wliich 
they consider in the light of a gratuitous present 
according to ancient custom, rather than a mark of 
subjugation. On more than one occasion they have 
refused to pay this tribute, and about fifty years 
ago, when a dispute took place on tlie subject, tlie 
Mosquito king's uncle, with the whole of the 
chiefs, and people, who then accompanied liim to 
the number of about fifty men, fell a sacrifice to 
their resentment. 

No Sookeaii man, or priest of any kind, resided 
amoiigst them during the years I visited, or resid- 
ed in, their country. Marriage, baptism, and other 
ceremonies, commonly considered religious, were 
performed by the elders of the settlement. They 
are not, however, without ideas of a future state, 
and an overruling Providence ; and, to any wonder- 



72 tHE VALIENTES. 

ful, or providential, escape from danger ; or, un- 
accountable preservation, they sometimes give the 
name of " God business. " For instance, in one of 
iny excursions above the great falls, the Indians 
inadvertently allowed the canoe to drift so near 
to a tremendous precipice, that they liad no chance 
of paddling her out of danger. They instantly 
leapt overboard and swam ashore. Being so com- 
pletely taken by surprise, I saw no chance of 
safety but by keeping in the canoe, which went 
over the fall and was dashed in pieces. When I 
recovered my recollection, I found myself in the 
water, by the side of a small island, a little dis- 
tance beneath the fall, grasping firmly some bushes 
that overhung the river. Some Indians on the 
other side of the river, wd^.o had not seen the ac- 
cident, conveyed me down to my own house. 
Feeling sick from the shock I had received, I lay 
down to recover myself. In the meantime my 
companions in the canoe had gone home and re- 
ported my death, in confirmation of which they 
pointed out the splinters of the canoe floating past 
the settlement. I had scarcely been an hour in 
my hammock when old Jasper, and other head- 
men, came to my house, lamenting my death, and 
proposing to take an account of my eifects, that 
they might be taken care of for my relations, or 
creditors. Nothing could equal their astonish- 
ment when I sat up and asked them what they 
were about to do ? " By Robert ! " a favourite 
exclamation of the old chief, " you no drown ! " 
then he added with a certain degree of reverential 
awe, " this is God business, Robert ! only God 
business ! ! " 

They have also some faiut ideas of disembodi- 



THE VALIENTES. 73 

ed spirits, and of another world, where they ex- 
pect to find good hunting- ground, with plenty of 
game and provisions. I firmly ])e]ieve that were 
a steady sensible missionary, of liberal principles, 
capable of making them a little acquainted with 
the arts of Europe, to accompany any trader go- 
ing to reside among them, by gradually overcoming 
their prejudices, and pointing out the advantages 
of civilization, religious observances, and certain 
fixed laws, he might acquire influence, and do 
much good. 

Their houses are generally built near the banks 
of a river, and are constructed as follows : — three or 
sometimes four hardwood posts are driven into 
the ground, at equal distances, the intended length 
of the house, to these is secured the main beam or 
roof-tree. Small posts are also driven, in like man- 
ner, at each side, at intervals of ten or twelve feet ; 
long poles or rafters are then laid upon these from 
tlie roof-tree and along the sides ; the roof, thus 
formed, is covered with a particular species of 
palm, extremely durable, and the sides are finished 
m a similar manner. Sometimes the roof is brought 
down, at the sides of the house, to within five 
feet of the ground, and the sides left entirely open, 
without any wall to shelter the inmates from the 
weather ; in this case they sleep on what they call 
crickeries, a kind of elevated platform, constructed 
by four posts being driven into the ground at equal 
distances, so as to form a square frame ; a plank of 
cedar wood is then cut into proper lengths, to form 
the bottom. This sleeping place is generally large 
enough to contain tlie husband and two or three 
wives ; and, when the family is numerous, several 



74 THE VALIENTES. 

of these bed-places are erected round the msidc 
of the house — on a level with the eaves, or lower 
side of tlie roof. A notched log of wood, serves 
for a ladder to mount to this couch, — as, without 
any other instrument than the axe, only one board 
can be cut out of a cedar tree ; to form one of 
those sleeping places is a worli of great labour. 

Their plantain walks are very extensive ; and, 
at Chrico Mola, extend several miles along the 
banks of the river. These walks are never ex- 
hausted, as on some parts of the Mosquito Shore, 
where the soil is poor ; on the contrary, a conti- 
nual succession of suckers, or young plants, are 
always found springing round the foot of the ori- 
ginal plant ; and, such is the luxuriance of their 
growth, that they are frequently thinned, trans- 
planted, or destroyed. Large quantities of cassa- 
va and Indian corn are cultivated farther back ; 
but, for subsistence, they principally depend upofi 
the plantain, banana, and cassava. Their method 
of preparing ground for a maize crop, is very sim- 
ple ; the person invites his neighbours to a chichee 
drink, states his wish to clear a certain piece of 
land, and requests their assistance. On the day 
appointed every man comes with his axe or mos- 
cheat, the trees and bushes are soon levelled, and 
the grain is loosely scattered on the ground amongst 
the fallen trees. This generally takes place a few 
days before the commencement of the rainy sea- 
son. The fallen branches screen the young shoots 
from the heat of the sun, and in about five months 
the grain, having overtopped this covering, is ready 
for gathering ; rather a troublesome business, the 
grain being only reached by climbing over the 
trunks, branches, and remains of the fallen trees. 



THE SOUPA TREE. 75 

When the grain has been collected, the wood, 
whicli is by this time well dried, is set on fire ; 
and, assisted by the dry stalks of the maize, burns 
so fiercely as to leave merely ashes, and the stnmps 
of the trees on the surface. By tliis simple plan, 
the gi'ound is considered sufficiently clear for every 
agricultural purpose. The cocoa tree grows in 
every banana or plantain walk ; the soil on the 
borders of the Chrico Mola, and other rivers 
emptying themselves into Chiriqui Lagoon, being 
particularly adapted to its growth ; it comes to 
perfection in not more than four or five years,^ 
with very little trouble to the cultivators, who 
raise it merely for their own consumption ; al- 
though, were they encouraged to raise it as an 
article of commerce, an immense quantity, of ex- 
cellent quality, might be produced on the banks 
of all these rivers. 

The soil about Chrico Mola, as has, in effect, 
been stated, is exceedingly rich ; it produces in 
the greatest perfection almost all the fruits inci- 
dent to South Amicrica ; such as the mammee, 
sapodilla, cocoa-nut, orange grape tree, locust^ 
soupa (which in season is preferred to the plan- 
tain, banana, and cassava) ; and a variety of other 
fruits of the most delicious and valuable descrip- 
tion. 

Tlie soupa merits particular attention. It is 
a species of palm ; the trunk completely armed 
with prickles or thorns, is from fifty to sixty feet 
high : on the top, the leaves branch out similar to 
those of the cocoa tree — they are pinnated — very 
thin^ — undulated — and frizzled toward the points. 
It hears several clusters of fruit, each cluster con- 
taining from eighty to a hundred. They are first 



76 MODE OF LIVING 

green, then yellow like an apple, and gi'ow red as 
they ripen. They are the size of a hen's egcr, 
and sometimes without any kernel ; the fruit is 
farinacious, and an excellent suhstitute for bread 
or vegetables. The wood of the tree is extreme- 
ly hard, heavy, and close-grained ; it is used for 
bows, staves for striking turtle, and for spear 
shafts. The stem is so prickly that the fruit can 
only be gathered by means of long bamboos, or 
when it becomes so ripe as to fall from the tree. 

The mode of living, of the Valientes, is upon 
the whole comfortable : Nature has supplied them 
abundantly with the necessaries of life : their plan- 
tations are managed with very little labour, and 
their woods contain abundance of game : their 
rivers abound in the finest fish, and their Lagoons 
are plentifully furnished with the richest turtle, 
and other food for their support. Anciently the 
common covering of these Indians was made of a 
sort of tree bark, prepared by being some time 
soaked in running water, and afterwards beaten 
with a smooth heavy club into a consistence re- 
sembling shamoy leather. This was formed into 
a square piece, six or seven feet long, and about 
five feet wide, with a hole cut in the centre to ad- 
mit the head. Now, however, the)'' are dressed 
with greater decency, many of them put on even 
a complete European suit ; and I have seen their 
traders, and head men, even well dressed, or, in 
their own words, " true English gentleman fa- 
shion, " and followed by numbers of their less for- 
tunate countrymen, who had some favour to ask, 
QY were desirous of paying their court to the great 
mn, who, in the mean time was, perhaps, sU'ul;- 



OF THE VALtENTES. 77 

ting about with a silk umbrella over his head, to 
protect him from the sun. 

The wet season is not, with tliem, conRidered 
an unhealthy period ; on the contrary, it is one of 
rest and enjoyment, during which, they form par- 
ties for drinking weak preparations of cocoa, of 
which they take immense quantities. Their me- 
thod of preparing it is extremely simple, it being 
merely bruized, or crushed, between two stones, 
and gTound to a consistence of paste, diluted with 
warm water ; and, in this state, passed round to 
the company in calabashes containing each about 
a quart : Some Indians drink eight or ten quarts at 
a sitting, which induces a state of sleepy insensi- 
bility. At these meetings, it is a favourite amuse- 
ment to tell long stories, or make harangues, m a 
singing monotonous tone of voice, to which all 
listen without interrupting the speaker, however 
improbable the story may be. I have frequently, 
in my turn, endeavoured to give them an account 
of some remarkable occurrence of my life, or some 
idea of European power and attainments : — how- 
ever incomprehensible and impossible some of these 
things must have appeared to ignorant Indians, 
they never offered the least interruption. Wlien 
a story w^as ended, some of the elders would per- 
haps consider a few minutes, and, after looking round 
to collect, as it were, the opinions of the company, 
would gravely say " lie Robert, lie," — to which I 
would answer, " no lie, all true, English fashion," 
" but now,'' I would add, " I am going to tell 
you a lie story " — when they would with the great- 
est good nature gather round, to hear " Robert 
tell story. " 

F 2 - 



76 SERPENT. REPTILES, &C. 

Tlieir cljichee dniilvs are of a different descrip- 
tion ; and, in some cases, that liquor, as well as a 
sort of wine, made from the fruit of a species of 
the palm tree, renders them outrageously intoxi- 
cated. Such occurrences are, however, much more 
rare amongst the Valientes and San Bias men, 
than any other tribe of Indians with whom I am 
acquainted ; and these drinking matches are only 
given on some particular occasions, such as previ- 
ous to setting off for the turtle fishing, gathering a 
Jiarvest of maize, at a wedding, or the birth of a child. 

There may be many places, on the coast, better 
situated for trade ; but, for a liealthy residence, or 
permanent settlement of Europeans, I would pre- 
fer Chrico Mola River to any other I have seen. 
Domestic animals increase very fast when the 
least care is taken of them ; a few hogs, which I 
procured for breeding, as also a quantity of tame 
fowls, increased so rapidly, that in the end I was 
at a loss what to do with them until the month of 
May, when the traders should arrive to take them^ 
?ind some cows and calves off my liands. 

Mosquitoes, sand flies, and other insects, which 
on the coast are so very troublesome and torment- 
ing, are here scarcely known ; and, durii^g the 
whole time of my residence, I slept without be- 
ing under the necessity of using mosquito curtains. 
Serpents or other poisonous reptiles are equally 
rare, and it is still rarer that any injury is sustain- 
ed from them. On one occasion, however, I had 
a narrow escape from one of these creatures. I 
had as usual been bathing one morning, and was 
turning, to go up the bank, to my house, wlien 
one of the Indians, coming down the nver in a 
c^oe, pointed to some large, round, dark-colour- 



CHIRIQUI LAGOONT. 79 

e<l stones, close to those on which my sHrt and 
trowsers had heen laid a few minutes before, and 
called " Hai Robeit, you see him, gre^t serpent." 
I, however, could perceive nothing of the kind : 
The Indian begged me to keep back from the 
place, go for my fowling-piece, and come into the 
canoe. Paddling opposite to the place he pointed 
out, I at last saw, coiled up among the stones, a 
large dark-coloured serpent, with his head resting 
in the centre of the circle, a little elevated, seeming- 
ly asLsep. Taking a proper distance, I shattered his 
head to pieces with the contents of both bairels. He 
was said to be of a species whose bite is mortal, 
but I rather think he was of the dark- coloured boa 
kind : he was above twelve feet long, and the In- 
dians affirmed that he must have crossed the river 
from the opposite forest, as it is very rare that 
they venture into the plantations. 

As I frequently made excursions to Chiriqui 
Lagoon, I can w^ith certainty asgfure any navigator 
who may visit it, that he will find it a safe and 
noble harbour. It has three entrances, one from 
the eastward round Valiente or Valencia Point ; 
the other, from the north-west, by the Sapadilla 
kays ; and a third by the Boco del Toro Lagoon. 
The first and second entrances command a sufficient 
draught of water for ships of the largest class ; and 
the Lagoon is capable of containing the whole 
British Navy secure from all winds. There are 
several banks of soft white coral in the Lagoon, 
but all distinctly visible when the sun shines ; and 
the water being, in general, perfectly smooth, a 
vigilant look out is all the pilotage requisite. At 
the eastern entrance is a small kay, * opposite to 
* Paterson's Kay. 



80 PROVISION ISLAND. M 

which, at the northern end of a sandy beach, an<^ 
not far from the entrance of the harbour, is a cas- 
cade, falling from a rock of the height of about 
five feet from the ground, — forming one of the 
most convenient watering places, as a seventy- 
four gun ship may lay close to it. It is superior 
to water kay, which, together with Tigers' Island^ 
Provision Island, and many other places on this 
coast, received its name from the old Buccaneers. 
The enta-ance to the Boco del Toro Lagoon, or 
Bahia del Amirante, from the north-west, is nar- 
row, yet sufficient for a smart vessel to work in 
or out ; and, it has about three fathoms water in 
the channel ; the other entrance, from Provision 
Island, is also a good channel, of considerable 
depth ; but the best entrances into Chiriqui La- 
goon, are those from the eastward. 

Provision Islaiid has for several years been oc- 
cupied by fishermen, from San Andres, and the 
Corn Islands, who barter their tortoise-shell, and 
other produce, with the annual traders. 

I made many excursions to the various islands 
and kays in these lagoons, and found plenty of 
quams, curassowos, pigeons, monkeys, deer, and 
a variety of other game on all of them. They al- 
so produce vanilla, a valuable plant, to be here- 
after noticed. On some of these islands there is 
a small species of tiger, but they are not at all 
dangerous ; the climate is considered healthy, 
the lagoons, notwithstanding the very heavy rai;is 
during the season, being at all times open to the 
sea breeze. Between Provision Island and a small 
island opposite to it, their is a deep height, called 
Nancy's Cove; completely sheltered from all winds, 
and in which the water is always as smooth as in 



THE BUCCANNIERS. 81 

n «Millpond. From this place to the north-west 
entrance of the port of Boco del Toro, is ahout 
sixteen miles ; and th^ whole length of hoth la- 
goons cannot be less than ninety to a hundred 
miles. 

The Buccaneers and free traders, used, occasion- 
ally, when afraid of an enemy, to conceal their 
vessels, in these lagoons, by hauling them into 
creeks, or intricate passages, under the overhang- 
ing branches of the trees ; and, then, by lowering 
the topmasts, and fixing greeh boughs to the yaixls 
and masts, so disguised their appearance, that it 
was almost impossible even for the practised eye 
of an Indian to discover the smallest indication of 
a vessel. 

Even when a discovery wag made, no moderate 
force dared venture to attack an enemy, who, un- 
der cover of the bushes, ajid assisted by their In- 
dian allies, could beat off their assailants without 
exposing themselves to a single well aimed shot. 

The banks of many of the rivers falling into 
these lagoons, are now totally destitute of inhabi- 
tants ; although, at one period, the country con- 
tained a numerous population consisting of various 
tribes, some of them, from the apparent remains 
of their ancient settlements, of considerable an- 
tiquity. The Chilibees, the Tirribees, and Blan- 
cos, were once numerous ; but in consequence cf 
their wars, and the introduction of European dis- 
eases, they are now almost extinct. Of the once 
numerous tribe of Chilibees, who possessed t^ e 
borders of Boco del Toro Lagoon, not more than 
three families are left at that }?lace ; and the Tir- 
ribees, and Blancos, are falling off in like manner, 
ii^heir country being now very thinly inhabited. 



82 DEPARTURE FROM CHRICO MOLA. 

The Valientes however seem to hold their ground 
and have concentrated themselves prmcipally about 
Chrico Mola, the rivers Coco, Beling — (or Beth* 
elem of the Spaniards) — and some other streams 
the sources of which are very little known. 

By the time the traders returned the season af- 
ter I settled at Chrico Mola, the produce of my 
exertions was upwards of nine thousand pounds 
weight of good sarsaparilla, besides cocoa, and a 
considerable quantity of tortoise shell, and other 
valuable produce. My reasons for finally leaving 
that station will be hereafter explained ; and should 
any new trader shortly visit that part of the world, 
I can recommend my friend, the native trader, 
Whykee Taira, to him, as a faithful and honest 
assistant. 



B3 



CHAPTER IV. 

RIO DEL ORO GOLD MINE RIVER BELEM 

LEAVE CHIIUQUI AND BOCO DEL TORO TIRIBEE 

INDIANS BLANCOS TRADE AT SALT CREEK 

MATINA CARTAGO DREADFUL EARTH- 
QUAKE TURTLE BIGHT NATURAL HISTORY 

RIO COLORADO RIVER AND HARBOUR OF 

SAN JUAN-^INDIAN RIVER VANILLA PLANT 

RAMA INDIANS AND RIVER BLUEFIELDS 

LAGOON FORMER ENGLISH SETTLEMENTS 

BLUEFIELDS RIVER COOKRA AND WOOLWA 

INDIANS. 

During one of the turtle fishing seasons, I fitted 
out a large canoe ; loaded her with goods to the 
value of about three hundred pounds, and, taking 
two stout lads to assist me, I visited several places 
on the coast of the Province of Veragua; calling, 
at Cocoa Plum Point, and the small island Escuda 
Veragua off the river of that name, — both places 
much frequented for turtle. From thence I went 
over to the entrance of the Rio del Oro, the last 
Spanish settlement on the coast in the above named 
province, where I found a party of four people 
stationed for the purpose of apprising the Spanish 



S'i GOLD MINE. 

merchants at La Concepcion, a town in the inte- 
rior, of the ai'rival of any trading vessel on the 
coast. Here, also, I met with two Spanish Cre- 
oles, from wliom I procured, in payment of goods, 
several ounces of gold dust. These people rather 
hurriedly left me, under pretence of going up the 
river to a gold mine, for the purpose of hringing 
down more dust, with some of their companions, 
who, as they said, wrought at the mine four days 
in the week, for their employer, and the remaining 
two days for their own benefit ; — but, being too 
weak to protect myself, against any body of men, 
however small, and suspecting treachery, I con- 
sidered it imprudent to wait their return. 

The information I then and subsequently, ob- 
tained, was, that this valuable mine had, some time 
ago, been discovered, about thirty miles up the 
river ; and that the patriot commanders at Old 
Providence, hearing that its proprietor, Don Juan 
Lopez, occasionally sold gold to the Jamaica and 
other traders, to the amount of three or four thou- 
sand dollars at one time, determined upon plun- 
dering him, and sent a vessel for the purpose, 
from that island. 

Lopez got notice of their approach in time to 
escape, with his people and treasure, into the 
woods. These patriots, or pirates, abandoned the 
place after murdering, in cold blood, a faithful old 
negro who had given the alarm, and this attempt 
so frightened the Spaniards, that the workmen de- 
serted, and the mine was some time abandoned. 
Lopez had since procured fresh workmen from Pa- 
nama ; and at the time of my visit to the coast, 
the mine was again wrought, although in a very 
bungling manner. The fellows from whom I pro- 



RIVER BBLEM. 85 

cured the gold dust were without shuts or breeches ; 
their only clothing was a piece of blue cotton 
cloth, in which the gold was concealed, round their 
loins. 

It is doubtful whether the former Spanish au- 
thorities knew any thing of the situation of this 
mine ; which, in its present unprotected state can, 
at any time, be plundered by the Valiente In- 
dians, or even by the crew of any common pirati- 
cal vessel. 

At the river Belen, or Belem, where, in the 
year fifteen hundred and two, Columbus was pre- 
vented, by the outrageous opposition of the natives 
and the turbulent disposition of his followers, from 
fixing a colony, — I procured tortoise-shell from 
two Spaniards, who with their wives and failiilies 
were residing there. 

The river is large, and wide at its entrance ; 
but being open to the north-west, it is barred up 
with more than four feet water at its mouth. The 
country, on each side of the river, appeared to be 
very fertile, and abounding in provisions, and o- 
ther natural products of the soil. From thence I 
proceeded to Coclee, a river of a similar descrip- 
tion, where I found a guard of Spaniards, who, 
after having bartered the tortoise-shell which they 
had collected, paid for the remainder of my goods 
in cash. These people always appeared glad to 
see me, and pressed me to renew my visits, and 
continue to trade with them. 

The whole of the coast, from Chiriqui to Cha- 

gre, is destitute of harbours for large vessels, the 

mouths of the rivers being completely exposed to 

the heavy seas which roll in from the north, north- 

G 3 



86 THE TIRIBEES. 

west, and north-east, are completely barred up; 
and, having only a very few feet water at their en- 
trances, they are totally unfit for navigation. 

This short trip was a very profitable one, and 
only occupied three or four days. As I could 
have disposed of double the quantity of goods, I 
was encouraged to undertake similar voyages, in 
larger canoes, and on a regular plan, along the 
whole coast of the Mosquito Shore ; and, for the 
pui-pose of procm-ing such canoes, I embraced the 
opportunity of accompanying a trader returning 
along that coast in a convenient vessel. 

After leaving Boco del Toro, we visited the 
principal river of the Tiribees, a tribe of Indians 
who, at the instigation of the Mosquito king, are 
constantly at war with the Blancas and Talaman- 
cas, tribes in the interior, whom they hunt like 
wild beasts, and no emotions of pity prompt them 
to spare the aged of either sex : the young only 
ai'e saved, and sold as slaves to the principal chiefs 
of the Mosquito nation. These Tiribees inhabit 
the country from, the entrance of Boco del Toro 
Lagoon, to the river Banana ; a small bay to the 
northward of which may be considered the boun- 
dary between them, and the two tribes above men- 
tioned. These Blancas and Talamancas frequent 
the coast from thence to Salt Creek, for the pur- 
poses of hunting and fishing during the season, but 
have no permanent habitations on the shore. 

The Tiribees are, as yet, far behind the Valien- 
tes and San Bias men, in point of civiiization ; 
but notwithstanding the inhuman, and selfish 
policy of the Mosquito men, in encouraging their 
savage habits, they manifest a strong disposition to 
follow the example of the more civilized Indians 



THE TIRIBEES, 87 

who have intercourse with the British. It is only 
of late years that they have been drawn from their 
native mountains, by the example of the success- 
ful industry of the Valientes and others, to watch 
the bays for turtle, and collect sarsaparilla for the 
purposes of traffic. They are for the most part 
entirely in a state of nature, except some of the 
old people, who clothe themselves with the bark 
cloth formerly described, or the spathes of a par- 
ticular species of palm-tree. They preserve, as 
trophies, and decorate their huts, with the skulls of 
their enemies ; and every Tiribee who has van- 
quished a foe, perforates the centre of the under 
lip with a peculiar sort of white thorn, or fish 
bone about the size of a pin, adding a fresh one 
for every enemy they put to death ; and I have 
seen some of the chief men with twenty, or thirty 
of these pins, their lips presenting the appearance 
of an inverted comb. They pressed me much to 
remain among them, and stated that their country 
abounded in vaniiloes and sarsaparilla, of which, 
they offered to collect any quantity I might re- 
quire. 

If the baneful influence exercised by the Mos- 
quito chiefs over these poor people was put an end 
to, it would add to the general happiness of them- 
selves and the neighbouring tribes ; and would 
tend greatly to their advancement in civilization. 
The hatred which all these Indians bear to the 
Spaniards, has prevented the Roman Catholic 
missionaries from penetrating their country ; but 
I feel convinced that zealous and sensible mis- 
sionaries, from England, would here find an am- 
ple field for their exertions, in a delightful coun- 
try, among people who manifest the strongest de- 



88 THE BLANCOS. 

ske to promote an intercourse with the DTitisWBi] 
It is to be hoped that when these Indians become 
better known, their wants and desires will be at- 
tended to by those who have at heart the welfare 
of the human race. 

From the Tiribee River to Monkey Point (Pun- 
ta Chica) the last headland in the province of 
of Veragua, the distance is not more than eight 
or ten miles ; it is easily known by a remarkably 
bluff rocky islet, distant only a few yards from the 
Mainland, from which it has the appearance of 
having been separated by some convulsion of na- 
ture. The islet itself is perforated in a remai'k- 
able manner through the middle in the shape of a 
high imperfect arch, under which there is room 
for a large boat to pass. A few people from the 
Corn Islands, under the direction of a Mr Forbes, 
have been induced to settle here : they live on 
friendly terms with the Tiribees, whose country 
is fertile, and as the coast is excellent for turtleing, 
it is to be hoped that, in many respects, they may 
do much good in civiiizmg the tribes in the neigh- 

uring country. 

The Rio Culebras, or Snake River, is consider- 
ed the boundary between the province of Veragua, 
and Costa Rica; — and, to the northward of this 
river, the Blancas, who ai'e believed to be the fair- 
est Indians in South America, sometimes repair, 
in laj'ge parties, for the purposes of hunting and 
fishing. They are a mild race, extremely shy, and 
obliged to be constantly on their guard against 
their enemies, the Tiribees and others, who on 
one occasion, when I was at Chiriqui Lagoon, fit- 
ted out, at the instigation of the Mosquito Admi- 
ral; ten lai'ge canoes on a kidnapping expedition 



SALT CREEK. 89 

against them ; but, after being absent several weeks, 
they returned, fortunately without having made a 
single captive. 

Having on our passage kept close to the shore, 
we saw a party of these Blancos, Avho had con- 
structed a hut on the sandy bay between Snake 
River and Grape Kay. We pulled through the 
surf, and landed opposite to their hut ; but, the 
instant we were perceived, they fied into the 
woods ; leaving a considerable quantity of dried 
warree, peccary, and turtle meat, with which we 
did not interfere. I left a few beads, looking- 
glasses, fish-hooks, and other trifles— which, to 
them, would appear valuable — in a conspicuous 
part of the hut. 

Between Matina and Monkey Point, the coun- 
try, which is thinly inhabited, presents a beautiful 
appearance of hill and vale, well watered, but des- 
titute of good harbours and headlands. The fol- 
lowing are the names of rivers and places in this 
tract, viz. Rio Quemado, Point Caneta, De las 
Doraces, De Dios, Banana, Blanco Point, San An- 
tonio, Lime Bight, Grape Kay, Salt Creek, and 
the small open roadstead of El Portete. The Blan- 
cos are said to have admitted Roman Catholic mis- 
sionaries among them, who are supposed to pre- 
vent any intercourse with the traders ; and to have 
assisted in bringing upon these Indians, the enmity 
of their neighbours, who hate the Spanish name. 

Salt Creek is about twelve miles from Matina, 
which, with the small harbour of El Portete, may 
be called the sea-port of Cartago ; the bay oppo- 
site to Matina River being nothing more than a 
wild open roadstead, where it is almost impossible 
g2 



90 CARTAGO. 

to land in an Europetui boat : Salt Creek may be 
distinguished by several small islands lying off the 
point of land at the south end of the bay, from 
which it is not more than five or six miles distant. 
This is the principal resort of the contraband tra- 
ders, when their cai'goes cannot be landed at Ma- 
tina River. That river has its source more than 
eighty miles in the inteiior ; and it is joined, at 
about thirty miles fi-om its mouth, by a tributary 
river, where the Spaniards have a fort, named Cas- 
tillo de Austria ; from whence, for about eight 
leagues, there is a road to an Embai-cadero, or car- 
rying place, about twelve miles from Salt Creek. 
The Americans from the United States, have re- 
gularly, but secretly, visited this port every sea- 
son for the last ten years ; — one house in New 
York annually sends three or four fast sailing 
schooners to then* agent, a Mr Smith, at Salt 
Creek, who disposes of the cargo, and collects the 
proceeds, during the time schooners are running 
down the coast, trading with the Indians for tor- 
toise-shell, copal and other gums, sai*saparilla, tas- 
sao, &Ca This business is extremely lucrative to 
the Americans ; who are enabled to dispose of a 
considerable quantity of Indian goods at such prices, 
as prevent the Jamaica traders from effectually 
competing with them. * 

The city of Cartago is the capital of the pro- 
vince of Costa Rica ; its estimated population, in 
1823, was thirty-seven thousand, seven hundred 
and sixteen souls ; but, about two years after that 
period, it was nearly destroyed by a tremendous 
earthquake, which shook the whole Isthmus of 

* A list of goods adapted to this trade, and that of the 
whole coast, will be found ill the Appendix, 



EARTHQUAKE. 91 

Dm-ien. On the night that this event took pkce, 
I was in an Indian house at Monkey Point, and 
had an opportunity of witnessing its effect on that 
part of the coast. About the middle of the night 
in question, I found the frame of the wicker bed- 
stead on which I slept, shaken with very great vio- 
lence ; supposing that it was either my companion 
(one of the traders), or some of my Indian friends 
who wished to frighten, or awaken me suddenly, 
I rather angiily demanded, whether they meant to 
shake me to pieces ? In a few seconds, however, 
the screams of the women, and the cries of the 
men, in the adjoining huts ; together with the 
rolling motion of the earth, which was twisting 
the hut in all directions, put an end to my suspense. 
I instantly ran out of the place to the open air ; 
and, although scarcely able to keep upon my feet 
from the rolling and trembling motions of the earth, 
I observed such a scene as will never to the last 
hour of my existence be erased from my memory. 
The ground under our feet seemed to heave con- 
vulsively, as if ready to open and swallow us, pro- 
ducing a low terrific sound ; the trees, within a 
short distance of the huts, were so violently shaken 
from their upright position, that their branches 
were crashing, and their trunks grinding against 
each other, with a groaning sound ; the domestic 
fowls, the paiTots, macaws, pigeons, and other 
birds, were flying about and against each other, 
in amazement, screaming in then* loudest and 
harshest tones : the sbrieks of the monkeys, and 
the bowlings of the beasts of the forest, which 
seemed as if approaching near us for protection, 
were mingled with the cries of the teriified In- 
dians, and their domestic animals, every living 



92 EARTHQUAKE. 

creature seeming to be overwhelmed with dismay. 
Although I had often contended with hurricanes, 
and storms at sea, I was utterly confounded by 
this unnatural scene, and it w^as some moments 
before I could rally my faculties sufficiently to 
think what should be done for my own preserva- 
tion : — considering that the gi-eatest danger would 
be in the event of the sea rising so high as to 
sweep the beach, I hastily roused my stupified 
companion ; and, hurrying to our small vessel got 
her shoved oiF from the shore, — considering that 
she, at all events, would likely keep afloat ; and 
we awaited the result, with fear and trembling. 
The shocks gradually became less violent ; and, 
towards daybreak, had entirely subsided. No 
lives were lost here, or at the other Indian settle- 
ments, in the neighbourhood, but the ground ap- 
peared rent in various places, the sand on the 
beach was either raised in ridges, or depressed in 
furrows ; a place, which in the evening had been 
a small lagoon, or pond, in which several canoes 
were floating, was now become quite diy; most of 
the huts were violently cracked and twisted ; and 
the effects, of the earthquake, were everywhere 
visible. The Mosquito men, who were at this 
season on the coast, were so terrified, and over- 
whelmed with superstitious dread, that they aban- 
doned the turtle fishery, and returned home before 
the season was half finished. * 

* The only persons in the neighbourhood not frighten- 
ed by this event, were a trader, and some of his Indian 
friends, who were so intoxicated at the time it happened, 
that, until next morning, they were not aware that any 
extraordinary occurrence had taken place. They had a 
confused recollection that a puncheon of rum, which was 



I 



TURTLB BIGHT. 98 

The mountain of Cartago is an active volcano, 
situated far back in the interior ; it frequently 
emits fire and smoke, and is an excellent land- 
mark to navigators — being seen, in sailing along 
the coast, at an immense distance. 

From Matina, in proceeding along the shore, we 
meet with the two rivers Vasquez, and Azuelos ; 
and to the northward of these, the Boca de la 
Portuga, or Turtle Bight : — at this place hundreds 
of the finest turtle are killed annually, merely for 
the sake^f their m:mteca or fat, which is melted 
into oil, and used by the Indians, and others on 
the Mosquito Shore, as a substitute for butter. 
Most of the fishermen on their return from the 
southwards towai-ds home, stop at this place for 
the purpose of procuring this oil, and turtles eggs ; 
which latter are dried in the sun to preserve them : 
— and in this way many thousands of turtle are 
annually destroyed or prevented from coming to 
maturity. 

During the months of April, May, June and 
July, the green turtle comes from various kays, 
and places a great many leagues distant, to several 
parts of the Mosquito Shore, especially to the sandy 
beaches in the vicinity of Turtle Bogue, to deposit 
their eggs. At this season, the sea is covered 
with what the fishermen call thimbles — a small 
blubber fish, in shape not unlike a tailor's thim- 
ble ; these, and a peculiar sort of grass growing at 
the bottom of the sea, is their principal food. It 
is to be observed that the turtle have large lungs, 

in the hut, could not be kept from rolling on the floor ; 
but whether some person was trying to steal it from them, 
or it was endeavouring to run away of its own accord, 
they could not, at the time, determine. 



94 TURTLE BIGHT. 

and cannot go deeper in the water than five or six 
fathoms, being obliged to come frequently to the 
surface, for the pm-pose of blowing, as all fish do 
that have lungs. The male and female remain 
together about nine days, during which time the 
female feeds, and keeps in good condition ; but, 
when they separate, the male is totally exhausted, 
worthless, and unfit for use as food. Sometime 
after this season, the female crawls up the sandy 
beaches, and prepares to lay her eggs ; she makes 
a circle in the sand until it is fully prepai'ed ; she 
then digs a hole, about two feet deep, in which 
she deposits from sixty to eighty, covers them up, 
and goes off, generally before daybreak ; about 
the fifteenth night afterwards, she returns, and de- 
posits a similar number, neai* the same spot. The 
young turtle come out of the shell in about thirty- 
two days, and immediately make their way into the 
sea. Both the hawksbill and loggerhead turtle- 
keep the same season ; but, if a trunk turtle, a 
species of immense size, and exceedingly fat, is 
found dead on the beach, neither of them will lay 
their eggs within a mile of the place, for which . 
reason that kind is never molested. 

•The handle of the spear with which the Indians 
strike the turtle, is made of very hard wood ; the 
head is a triangular-shaped piece of notched iron,, 
with a sharp point ; a piece of iron is joined to 
this which slips into a groove at the top of the 
spear handle, and has a line attached to it which 
runs through eyes fixed, for that pui-pose, to the 
shaft of the spear to which a float is fastened. The 
Indians, when near enough to strike the turtle, 
raises the spear above his shoulder, and throws it, 
in such a manner, that it takes a circular direction 



:black tiger. 95 

in the air, and lights, with its point downwards, 
on the back of the animal, penetrating through 
the shell, and the point becoming detached from 
the handle, remains firmly fastened in the creatm'e's 
body ; the float now shows on the surface of the 
water which way the turtle has gone ; and he is 
easily hunted up, and secured, by means of the 
line, which has remained attached to the spear 
head. 

The turtle has many other enemies which de- 
stroy both itself and its eggs ; — such as the racoon, 
squash, fox, &g. The congar or American lion, 
and a species of black tiger, will also watch the 
turtle when coming to deposit its eggs, seize and 
haul it into the bush, and there, notwithstanding 
the coat of mail with v/hich it is furnished by na- 
ture — destroy it at leisure. 

I may here remark, that in the course of my 
excursions in the v/oods, on various parts of the 
coast I have met with these beasts of prey, and 
have also seen them at a distance, but they never 
showed any disposition to attack me. When 
they did stand at gaze for a minute or two, it 
appeared more the effect of surprise than of a 
desire to spring forward or approach me ; and the 
levelling of my rifle, or a flourish with my cutlass 
or moscheat, invariably made them steal off. On 
one occasion an acquaintance had, however, nearly 
fallen a sacrifice to one of these animals : — he was 
with a friend watching turtle near the beach, but 
having in the dusk of the evening retired for a few 
seconds into the bush, a very large tiger, of the 
black species, approached, unnoticed, to within a 
very few yards ; fortunately the man's friend disco- 
vered the glaring eyes of the animal; and knowing the 



96 BIO COLORADO. ^ 

unguai'ded position of the other, fired his piece at the^ 
animal, which sprung immediately into the bushes. 
Next morning they traced him hy the marks of 
blood which he had left ; and they found him dead 
in his lair, with one turtle half devoured, and the 
shells of another one lying beside him. 

Pursuing our voyage from Turtle Bogue, we 
come to the Rio Colorado. Its entrance is wide, 
but there is too little water on the bar to admit 
ships of any size, othei'vdse there would be suffi- 
cient depth for that purpose inside. It takes its 
name from the muddiness of its waters, which dis- 
colour the ocean to a considerable distance ; and, 
in the rainy season, they may be obtained fresh a 
long way out at sea. Its entrance may be easily 
found on the coast, by this discoloration, and by 
extensive green savannahs on its south bank. 

A communication between it, and the great 
river de San Juan, (running out of the lake of 
Nicaragua,) takes place at a distance of about 
thirty miles from its mouth, by the branch Serapigni. 
Its course in the interior is nearly parallel to the 
River San Juan, and is said to be joined by many 
streams having their sources in the mountains to 
the southward of the lake of Nicaragua. It enters 
the ocean about ten miles from the harbour of San 
Juan ; but, in most charts, it is erroneously laid 
down at a much greater distance to the south- 
ward. 

The next harbour, viz. that of San Juan de Ni- 
caragua, is unquestionably the best for ships of 
war, or large vessels, on the whole range of coast 
between the Boco del Toro, and Cape Gracias 
a Dios — to which latter it is also superior in not 
being exposed to southerly winds. There is a 



THE MANATEE. 97 

sufficient depth of water, and room, at the upper 
part, for fifteen or twenty sail of vessels of the 
largest class, besides smaller vessels ; which, wlien 
there, would be completely land-lockf»d. 

Many of the fishermen, Indians and others, on 
their return from the southern fisliing grounds, 
call in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of tak- 
ing manatees, which are very plenty in the river^ 
and in a creek at the upper end of the harbour. 
Hundreds of these fishermen remain to cure the 
meat, on the low sandy point, at the entrance of 
the harbour, without being molested by the Spa- 
niards. This singular creature may be consider- 
ed the connecting link between quadrupeds and 
fishes ; it retains the fore-feet, or rather hands, of 
the former, with the tail of the latter — spreading 
out in a horizontal direction like a larore fan. Be- 
neath the skin, which is uncommonly hard and 
thick, there is a deep layer of very sweet fat. The 
meat in its thickest parts, has the singular pro- 
perty of being streaked tlu'oughout with alternate 
layers of fat and lean, being most excellent food. 
Persons subject to be afflicted with scorbutic, or 
scrofulous complaints, find speedy relief ; by using 
it freely, their blood is said to become purified, 
and the virulence of the complaint is thrown to the 
surface of the body, and quickly disappears. The 
manatee is extremely acute in its sense of hearing, 
and immerges itself in the water on the slightest 
noise ; it feeds on long shoots of tender grass 
growing on the banks of the rivers, and will rise 
nearly two-thirds of its length out of the water to 
reach its food ; it is found only in the most soli- 
tary, and least frequented creeks, and rivers; the 



98 RIO TRIGO. 

male and female aie generally together ; their com- 
mon length is from eight to twelve feet, and it 
weighs from five to eight hundred pounds weight : 
some of them are however much larger, weighing 
from twelve even to fifteen hundred weight. The 
Indians generally steal upon them early in the 
morning when they are feeding, and kill them with 
a harpoon ; but, if the least noise is made in ap- 
proaching, they immediately sink, and escape. 

From the Rio de San Juan to Point de Gordo^ 
a distance of between thirty and forty miles, the 
coast forms a large bay, into which flows the llio 
Trigo, (Corn lliver), Indian River, and several 
smaller streams, some of which, in most of the 
charts of JefFeries, Lawrie, and Arrowsmith, are 
erroneously laid down as having communication, 
in the interior, with the River San Juan ; for, al- 
though I have heard it reported on the coast that 
such a communication by Indian River does ex- 
ist, — I never could trace the report to any au- 
thentic source ; neither in the passage up and 
down the Rio San Juan, could I discover such a 
communication. Between Com River and Point de 
Gordo, is Grindstone Bay, with anchorage in from 
four to ^ve fathoms water. At a short distance 
from the coast the country here rises considerably ; 
and, from the neighbourhood of San Juan to Blue- 
fields, it is occupied by the Rama Indians, whose 
principal settlement is at Rama River, or Rio de 
Punta Gorda, a noble stream, which is said to 
have a course of about eighty miles, or upwards, 
from the interior, through a fertile country, and 
passing between two mountainous ridges at a 
short distance from the sea-shore. Its mouth 
may be known by a remarkably high, round, bar- 



VANILLA. 99 

ren islet, laying about four miles distant off its 
entrance. The bay is shallow, but there is good 
anchorage under the lee side of Monkey Pohit, 
about four miles farther to the northward, a place 
which may be distinguished by its having several 
small islands and kays in its vicinity. 

The country from San Juan River to this point 
abounds in vanilla * of the finest quality. This 
plant climbs with ease to the top of the highest 
ti'ee. At a distance the leaves slightly resemble 
those of the vine ; the flowers are of a white 
colour, intermixed with red and yellow, when 
these fall off, they are quickly succeeded by the 
pods, gi'owing in bunches not unlike the plantain, 
and generally of the thickness of a child's finger. 
The pods are green at first, grow yellow, and 
finally brown ; the method used to preserve the 
fruit, is to gather it when yellow, before the pods 
begin to open or burst ? — it is then laid in small 
heaps for the space of three or four days to fer- 
ment. The fruit is afterwards spread in the sun 
to dry ; and when about half dried, flattened with 
the hand, and rubbed over with cocoa, palm, or 
other oil : — it is once more exposed to the sun, to 
be fully dried, rubbed over with oil a second time, 
put in small parcels, and closely covered over 
with the dried leaves of the plantain or Indian 
reed. Care is taken not to allow the pods to re- 
main upon the stalks too long before they are 
pulled, as, in that case, they transude a black 
fragi-ant balsam, which carries off both the smell 
and delicate flavour for which alone they are 
valued. The vanilla plant is also found on mo&t 

* Vanilla aromatica (Epidendrum vanilla of Linn.} 



100 RAMA INDIANS. 

parts of the Mosquito Shore, and in tlie neigh- 
bourhood of Breo del Rero aiid Chiriqui Lagoons ; 
it requires heat, moisture, and shade, to bring it to 
perfection, and when used in that state it gives 
most delicious flavour to coffee, chocolate, &c.^ 
forming an important article of commerce, espQi| 
cially among the Spaniards. In the neighboui*^ 
Iiood of the Lagoons and places last mentioned, 
very fragrant bean, resembling, if not in reahty, thq 
true Tonquin bean, is also found. * 

The Rama Indians were formerly numerous/^ 
but, at present, do not exceed five hundred ; they 
are under subjection to the Mosquito King, to 
whom they pay an annual tax in tortoise-shell, 
canoes, hammocks, and cotton lines. The Ramas 
are considered mild, and inoffensive ; they have 
little intercourse with other Indians ; and, during 
the fishing season, seldom go to the southwai'd of 
Matina ; they are more expert in the management 
of canoes and other boats, than the Mosquito men, 
and will effect a landing in their barks, where the 
best European boats would meet certain destruc- 
tion : their canoes and dories, are much broader, 
and shallower, than those generally used on the 
coast ; they are also much more buoyant, and bet- 
ter adapted for landing in a heavy surf, or for 
crossing the bars of rivers. The Ramas, when 
engaged by the English settlers, have always 
proved very faithful servants. The scm'ce of the 
Rama River, is unknown to the settlers at Blue- 
fields ; but some of them have examined it for sixty 

* We have been assured that the bean alluded to is the 
true Baryosmo Tonga of Gcertner — possessing the same 
flavour and other qualities as that brought from the East,— ■ 

Edit, 



BLUEFIELDS LAGOON. 101 

or seventy miles, and assert tliat it runs through a 
country rather levels but having an appearance of 
very great fertility, and abounding in mahogany, 
locust, santa maria, and other valuable timber. 

The several small kays and islets, which lay 
off this part of the coast, and that of Bluefields, 
are, like many places already noticed, much fre- 
quented by the Indians from all parts tluring the 
season for hawksbill turtle. 

Bhiefields is the next place of importance on 
the coast, and is said to derive its name from a 
celebrated EngHsh Captain of Buccaniers in the 
seventeenth century. For trading vessels of an 
easy draught of water, the upper lagoon is per- 
haps superior to any other harbour on the Mos- 
quito Shore, being completely sheltered from all 
winds. There are two entrances ; that to the 
southward, through Hone Sound, is very difficult, 
and dangerous even for small craft ; the bar being 
generally covered with breakers, and having only 
four to &ve feet wsXer : — but, the principal and 
only one for ships, is to the northward, close to 
the Bluff, a bigh rocky eminence, capable of being 
easily fortified, completely commanding the en- 
trance, upon the bar of which, extending across 
to Deer Island, there is never less, but sometimes 
more, than fifteen feet water. After passing this 
bar, there is from four to six fathoms water. Close 
to the shore it continues deep, but it gradually 
shallows to three, and three and a half fathoms, 
which is the general depth througliout the upper 
and lower Lagoons. There are many banks, and 
shoals, about the entrances, but none of them dan- 
gerously situated for shipping ; many of them are 
H 2 



102 COLONEL HODGSON. 

thy at low water, and abundance of fine oyst(^T3 
can then easily be procured. The Lower LagoonA J 
is full of small kays, or islets, and is from fifteen « 
to twenty miles in length, having sufficient depth 
of water for vessels of considerable burthen, but 
the channels are intricate, and only known to the 
settlers at Bluefields. 

The Upper Lagoon, which is a continuation of 
the Low^er, is not more than a mile broad at its en- 
trance, but its width, farther up, mcreases to five 
or six miles ; and, into it, the great river of Nueva 
Segovia of the Spaniai'ds, and several smaller ones, 
empty themselves. 

The lands bordering on all these rivers ai'e ex- 
tremely rich and fertile, capable of growing cot- 
ton, cocoa, coffee, sugar, and all the different kinds 
of produce i*aised in the British West Indies. The 
forests abound in cedar of the largest description, 
mahogany, and many other valuable woods. , 

The pine Savannahs, bordering on Bluefields, 
and pearl kay lagoons, can funiish an inexhaust- 
ible supply of the very finest pitch pine timber, 
some of it fit for the largest masts. 

Colonel Hodgson, the British Superintendant, 
resided at this place for a number of years, dur- 
ing the time the English held possession of 
the Mosquito Shore, and he had extensive ma- 
liogany works on the banks of the principal ri- 
ver, and a very considerable trade was canned on 
with the Spaniards and Creoles in the interior. 
This active and intelligent gentleman, had also ex- 
tensive grants of land at Black River, and left the 
Mosquito Shore with much regret, at the time 
when the extraordinary policy of the British Go- 
vernment compelled their settlers to abandon that 



BLUEFIELDS RIVER. 103 

country in the year 1786. He spent a great por- 
tion of his life on this coast ; * and the old In- 
dians still speak of their former Governor, witli 
respect, and marks of regret, that no accredited 
person now resides among them. 

Previous to his leaving Bluefields, several of his 
slaves and people who were established in the in- 
terior, refused to leave the place. These people 
and their descendants, who are Mulattoes and 
Samboes, are settled at the southernmost extre- 
mity of the harbour, about nine miles from its 
principal entrance, and they have considerably in- 
creased in numbers since Colonel Hodgson's time. 
They live without fear of molestation from the 
Indians, none of whom reside within many miles 
of them ; and, although it is not acknowledged as 
such by the British Government, it may be tinily 
considered a British settlement. It is principally 
imder the influence of two intelligent young men, 
who claim aiiinity to the late superintendent. The 
river of Bluefields, or Rio de Nuevo Segovia, rises 
in the country possessed by the Spaniards, within 
fifty or sixty miles of the South Sea, and has a 
course of several hundred miles ; but few of the 
present people at Bluefields have ascended its 
course to any great height. The Cookra and 
Woolwa tribes of Indians, who are settled on its 
banks, at a considerable distance in tlie interior, 
are a quiet peaceable race of people, on good terms 
with the Ramas, and the people at Bluefields La- 
goons. They possess very little energy, and are 
often enslaved, or murdered, by the Indians resi- 

* See " Some Account of the Mosquito Territory, &c. 
from the original manuscripts of the late~ Colonel Robert 
Hodgson, " 2d Edition. Edinburgh, 1822. 



104 BLUEFIELDS HARBOUR. 

dent about Great River, whom I shall afterwards 
have occasion to notice. 

These Indians occasionally descend the river, 
to the settlements at Bluefields, bringing peccary, 
warree, iguanas, and other provisions. 

Bluefields, with its excellent harbour, protected 
by a rocky, bluff point, capable of being made al* 
most impregnable, is in an excellent situation for 
opening a communication across the country to 
the Lakes of Nicaragua, and possesses such other 
advantages as a commercial station, that, sooner 
or later, it must become a place of very consider- 
able importance. 



105 



CHAPTER V. 

PEARL KAYS AND LAGOON OYSTERS — EURO- 
PEAN SETTLERS STORES TRADERS-CLTMATE, 

PRODUCE RIO GRANDE, OR PRINZAPULKO 

INDIANS AND CHIEF MEN PINE SAVANNAHS 

MACAWS — SOIL HORSES IRON — CAPTIVE 

INDIAN BOY GRUEL EXPEDITIONS AGAINST 

THE COOKRAS PRINZAPULKO RIVER AND IN- 
DIANS ■ — CONTRACTS WITH THE WOOLWAS 

TONGULAS CAPTAIN TARRA BROWN — RE- 
TURN TO PEARL KAY LAGOON. 

From Bluefields, to Pearl Kay Lagoon, the dis- 
tance is about thirty miles : a moderately elevated 
headland, named False Bluefields, is the only higji 
land on the coast, until we reach Brangmans, or 
Branckmans Bluff, called by the Spaniards Monte 
Gordo ; it consists of three or four moderately 
high hills, of a light red colour, rising almost per- 
pendicularly from the beach ; they are composed 
of Stiff clay, and extend along the shore for nearly 
two miles, falling off at each end with a gentle 
slope terminating in the savannah. About half a 



106 PEARL KAYS. 

mile to the southward of tlie bluff, there is good 
anchorage. The soil in the neighbourhood of the 
bluff is saiidy, yet covered with verdure ; and 
there are several tall pine trees close to them, 
under the shade of which, a " king's house," si- 
milar to those before mentioned, had been erected 
for the convenience of travellers, there being now 
no Indian resident here, although at one time there 
was a small British settlement near it. 

The entrance to Pearl Kay Lagoon is little 
more than a quarter of a mile in width, and is at 
the bottom, or south end of the bay, over a bar, 
on which there is about ten feet water. The 
safest anchorage for vessels is under the north 
side, off which, there are several small islands, 
kays, and reefs, on which pearl oysters are said to 
have been found. Moreover, these places are 
called the Pearl Kays, but, for what reason, I 
never could ascertain, as there is certainly no pearl 
oysters, or oysters of any kind that I could dis- 
cover, upon them, or on the reefs by which they 
are surrounded; although, in the Lagoon, there 
are abundance of good oysters, on banks, many 
of which are dry at low water. These oysters are 
in bunches of about eight or ten in each bunch ; 
they ai'e rather larger than the mangrove oyster, 
but of a different kind from those in the Bay of 
Panama, and other places pi-oducing pearls. I 
have frequently examined the oysters found in the 
Lagoon, but never could discover pearls in any of 
them ; and I mention this more particularly, be- 
cause, since my return to England, I found, that 
these reports, and the blind zeal of certain igno- 
rant speculators, had induced one of the compa- 



EUROPEAN SETTLERS. 107 

nies recently formed in London for Foreign Ad- 
venture, to determine on sending a vessel, which 
was in fact ready to depart, to this quarter to fish 
for pearls ; but, on informing them of the truth, 
they altered her destination. 

There are several islands in Pearl Kay Lagoon, 
some of them from one to three miles in circum- 
ference ; and, in some instances, they are used 
for raising ground provisions. Several rivers 
and considerable streams fall into it, the principal 
of which is Wawashaan, about twenty-five miles 
to the northward of the entrance. On the banks 
of the Wawashaan, about eleven miles from the 
place where it discharges itself, INTr Ellis, a French 
gentleman, has established a very neat plantation. 
When the island of San Andres, oiF this coast, 
was given up to the Spaniards, he was Governor 
there ; and he, with Mr Goffe, their families, and 
followers, retired to the present settlement, where 
they justly considered themselves perfectly safe 
from the Spaniards, and, having obtained a grant 
of land from one of the late kings of the Mosquito 
Shore, they proceeded to cultivate it. By his own 
exertions, and the aid of about twenty negroes, 
men, women, and children, Mr Ellis has succeed- 
ed in establishing a plantation of coffee, cotton, 
and sugar-cane, that for beauty and regidarity, 
may vie with any of the same extent in the island 
of Jamaica. His attention was first directed to 
the cultivation of coffee and cotton ; but finding 
that nim would be a more profitable article, he, 
about eight years ago, commenced its distillation ; 
and, when I left the coast, he was in the habit of 
retailing twenty or thirty puncheons annually, at 



lOB SETTLKRS AT 

aii'immense profit, Mr Goffe, wliose settlement 
is at Jupiter's Head, or Old Bank, a few miles from 
Wawashaan, and near the Lagoon, has turned his 
attention more to the raising of stock, and culti- 
vation of gi'ound provisions. He has a great num- 
her of buUocksj hogs, goats, and poultry of all 
kinds ; with abundance of yams, cassava, plan- 
tains, and Indian corn, which he sells to the traders, 
settlers, and occasional visitors. Mr Ellis may, 
however, be said to be the only planter on the 
whole coast, according to the West Indian accep- 
tation of the term ; but there are many situations 
which, in point of soil, and other local advantages, 
are far preferable to the one he occupies. 

There are few settlements of Mosquito Indians, 
and Samboes, at Kirkaville and Rigmans Bank, on 
the borders of the Lagoon ; but the principal set- 
tlement, is at a place, about six miles to the south- 
ward of the entrance, and being composed of peo- 
ple similar to those at Bluefields, it may also be 
considered an English settlement. The people 
ai'e principally Creoles, Mulattoes, and Samboes 
from Jamaica, San Andres, and the Corn Islands ; 
many of them have manied Indian women, and, 
every thing considered, they live in a very com- 
fortable manner. Their place of residence, con- 
sisting of thirty or forty houses, is called English 
Bank, and faces the shore of the Lagoon. The 
population may be about one hundred and fifty or 
two hundred souls, living in very neat compact 
houses of one story high, the sides for the most 
part made of clay, beaten down hard into a frame- 
work of lath and hardwood posts, and roofed 
with a durable species of palm leaf. The Jamaica 



I 



ENGLISH BANK. 109 

traders have established two stores for the sale of 
goods among them, and there is also one supplied 
from the United States ; the agents in charge of 
these stores constantly reside at English Bank, 
and are visited by different tribes of Indians, and 
by Mosquito-men, from all parts of the coast ; 
bringing tortoise-shell, gum copal, caouchouc, &c. ; 
skins, paddles, canoes, and various articles to bar- 
ter for duck, check, cutlass blades, and other goods 
adapted for, the Indian trade. The inliabitants em- 
ploy themselves in turtleing during the season, and 
in raising provisions, hunting, and fishing; during 
the remainder of the year. They maintain a 
friendly correspondence with the regular Indians ; 
are, in general, fair a,nd honourable in their deal- 
ings with them, and with each other, and are truly 
hospitable to those Europeans or other strangers 
who happen to come amongst them. They are 
however without any religious instruction, and I 
have again to lament that no missionary has hi- 
therto visited this part of the coast ; where, al- 
though he might, at first, meet with a little occa- 
sional opposition from the visiting traders, he 
would ultimately do much good ; and I may ven- 
ture, at all events, to affirm, that he would not 
meet with that discouragement, which has lately 
been experienced by his brethren in the more 
civilized colonies of Barbadoes and Demerara. 

I never knew an instance of a marriage being 
celebrated amtong them, according to the prescrib- 
ed forms of the English, or of any other church ; 
these engagements are mere tacit agreements, 
which are sometimes, although rarely, broken by 
mutual consent. The children here, and at Blue- 



110 TRADERS. 

fields, are in general baptised by the captains of 
trading vessels from Jamaica ; who, on their an- 
nual retm-n to the coast, perform this ceremony 
with any thing but reverence, on all who have 
been born during their absence ; and many of them 
are indebted to these men for more than baptism. 
In proof of this, I could enumerate more than 
a dozen of acknowledged children, of only two of 
these captains, who seem to have adopted, without 
scruple, the Indian idea of polygamy in its fullest 
extent. By this licentious and immoral conduct 
tWey have, however, so identified themselves with 
the natives, and with some of the principal people 
on the coast, as to obtain a sort of monopoly in the 
sale of goods, which it would be difficult for any 
stranger, not possessed of an intimate knowledge 
of the Indian character, to shake ; they have also 
so insinuated themselves into the good graces of 
the leading men, that their arrival on the coast is 
hailed with joy by all classes, as the season of 
festivity, reveliy, christening, and licentiousness. 
Funerals are however conducted with decency 
and comparative propriety ; Mr Ellis, or one of 
the agents of the traders, with the old men cf the 
place, generally give their attendance on these solemn 
occasions. Notwithstanding that they live in thi^ 
tree manner without fixed laws or religious re- 
straint, they, in absence of the traders, maintain an 
order and regularity, that would not lose by com- 
parison, with any of the small provincial towns in 
England. In cases of dispute, a reference to the 
arbitration of some of the elders, or to their gene- 
ral friend Mr Ellis, decides the matter at once. 
Mr Ellis has done much good both among thp 



CLIMATE, PftODUCE, &C. Ill 

mixed residents, and the Indians ; and has, on 
tnaiiy occasions, given the strongest proofs of a 
most kind, and benevolent disposition. In com- 
mon with every person who has visited the settle- 
ment, or resided in its vicinity, I have experienced 
his attentions ; and have much pleasure in thus ac- 
knowledging the great personal obligations which 
he thereby conferred upon me. 

Diu'ing the short time that the British were 
fixed on this part of the Mosquito Shore, under 
the superintendancy of Colonel Hodgson, many 
persons became settlers here ; and, if the British 
Government had not withdrawn their protection, 
the vicinity of Pearl Kay Lagoon would now 
have been covered with flourishing plantations. 
The climate is good ; and, on the whole, with 
common care, and a small exertion of industry, 
the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life, 
may be easily procured. The country and La- 
goon abounds in all the kinds of game and fish 
peculiar to the country and coast. The Mosquito 
men, Ramas, and other Indians, hire themselves to 
the settlers at Bluefields, and Pearl Kay Lagoon, 
as hunters and strikers of fish, at the rate of four 
or five dollars a month, paid in goods ; and they 
always cover the board of their employer with 
an ample supply of <fish, game, and other provi- 
sions ; the Ramas or other pure Indians are al- 
ways preferred, for this purpose, to the mixed 
breeds. The value of these men, in the capacity 
above mentioned, was well known to the old Buc- 
caniers, who had always some of them attached 
to their expeditions, even as far as the South Sea, 
to which they were frequently guided, by these 
Indians, across the continent. 



112 UIO GRANDE. 

Pearl Kay L^oon is of considerabk magni- 
tude ; one part of it reaching to within eight 
miles of Great River, or llio Grande ; its greatest 
winding length, from north-east, to south-west, 
cannot be far short of sixty miles, or its breadth 
from sixteen to twenty. The Indians, in bad wea- 
ther, instead of keeping along the sea-coast, enter 
Pearl Kay Lagoon by hauling theii* canoes over 
the narrow neck of land between it and Bluefields 
Lagoon ; and, at the upper end of it, they have 
another haulover of about two hundred yards, into 
the ocean. 

In many places on the banks of the Lagoon, 
indigo gi'ows spontaneously, but the richest land 
is generally to be found on the high ground, and 
banks of rivers, remote from the coast. 

The Cookras, a tribe of Indians, now nearly 
extinct, formerly resided on the banks of some of 
tlie rivers falling into this lagoon ; and they had 
formerly a settlement on the banks of the Wawa- 
shaan river, but they abandoned it shortly after the 
arrival of Mr Ellis. Remaining some time at Pearl 
Kay Lagoon, I proceeded to Rio Grande and Prin- 
zapulko, (I give the last name according to the 
pronunciation), being the best places for obtaining 
the large canoes wanted. 

Rio Grande enters the ocean about thirty miles 
to the northward of the entrance to Pearl Kay 
Lagoon ; its entrance being completely exposed to 
north-east winds, is extremely dangerous ; and, al- 
though it is a noble stream, theie is not more than 
four or Give feet water over its bar : — It is said to 
be navigable for boats, nearly two hundred miles, 
and its source is totally unknown to the English. 



CHIEF MEN. 113 

There are several small islands inside the bai-, but 
there is no island oiF its entrance as stated by some 
writers. There are several settlements of Indians 
on its banks, chiefly within a few miles distance 
from its entrance ; they are subject to the Mos- 
quito King, to whom they pay tribute ; but, like 
every other tribe of unmixed Indians, they are dis- 
contented with the authority assumed over them 
by the Mosquito men, or Samboes. 

Their headmen, Dnimmer and Dalbi8,'two bro- 
thers, possess considerable influence over them, 
and the other Indians adjoining, on the Prinzapulko 
and Rio Grande settlements. 

The late Mosquito King had the good policy to 
bestow the title of " Governor " on Drummer, 
" Admiral '* on Dalbis, and " Captain " on the 
headman at Prinzapulko ; the latter being also an 
Indian of unmixed breed. I proceeded to Go- 
vernor Drummers settlement, which is about 
eight miles from the mouth of the river, on one of 
its branches, close to an extensive and beautiful 
pine savannah. This house is a large building di- 
vided into three apartments ; close to it, stood 
a shed for cooking, and other domestic purposes. 
It is situated on a rising ground, at a short dis- 
tance from the river, and surrounded by twenty or 
thirty other houses of smaller dimensions. I found 
it tolerably well furnished with tables, benches, 
stools, crockery ware, glass, &c. ; and, every thing 
in and about it wore the appearance of a compara- 
tively well regulated, and comfortable abode. Its 
owner received me with the greatest cordiality, 
and, sending to make inquiries among his people, 
soon gave me to understand that I could procure 
I 2 



114 PINE SAVANNAHS. 

six such caiioes as I wanted, hei*e, and at a little 
distance ; and also that he could procure me a 
quantity of tortoise-shell — m short, to use his own 
words, that I should he treated " true EngUsh gen- 
tleman fashion. " 

For all this kindness I was in some measure 
indebted to a few gallons of rum which I had 
brought, and it was intimated, that I had better 
rest from the fatigues of tlie voyage, and leave 
business until next day. In the meantime, the 
goods and iTim were carefully removed from the 
dorie to an apartment in the house ; and, in a 
short time, a repast was served consisting of fish, 
flesh, fowl, and fruit, which, if properly cooked, 
would not have disgraced the table of an alderman. 
In the afternoon I had a long walk into the sa- 
vannah, which is pretty closely covered with de- 
tached clumps of pitch pine tree» of all ages and 
sizes : the trunks of many of them being from 
sixty to eighty feet in height, without a branch, 
the greater part of considerable girth, and per- 
fectly straight. Towai-d sunset, innumerable 
flights of macaws, and parrots were seen coming 
from all quarters, to roost in these trees near the 
houses ; and, the continued noise, made at this 
time, and at their departure in the morning, gave 
no bad idea of an English rookery : they are fond 
of harbouring near the Indians, who never molest 
them. Several horses were grazing in the savan- 
nah, but no black cattle — these are kept, as I af- 
terwards learnt, in the interior, at the provision 
grounds. 

On my return to the house, I found the princi- 
pal people of the settlement waiting for me ; and 
as I knew they had adopted the ideas of the Mos- 



HORSES. SOIL, &C. 115 

quite men, who judge of a trader by his liberality 
in supplying them with their favourite beverage, 
I requested Diiimmer to use my ram bottles, as 
if they were his own; and, in consequence, all 
were soon in a state of intoxication. 

Early in the morning I called up Nelson, one 
of Drummer s sons, to join me in a ride through 
part of the savannah. He soon caught a couple 
of horses which seemed accustomed to be mount- 
ed, but for a bridle, we had only a small piece of 
rope ; and *a thick mat made of dried plantain 
leaves, without the appendage of stirrups, served 
for a saddle. 

I found the savannah intersected by numerous 
paths, mostly of a fine sandy nature, in various di- 
rections leading, as Nelson informed me, to the 
hunting and provision grounds of the people at- 
tached to his father, his uncle, and the Admiral ; 
each of whom had several wives, resident chiefly 
at their different plantations. 

The soil of the savannah appeal's to consist of 
micacicus sand and gravel, some spots being en- 
tirely without vegetation, and quite bare. I may 
here observe, that all the pine savannahs in the 
neighbourhood of the sea, on the Mosquito Shore, 
are sandy, and, comparatively speaking, barren ; 
while the soil of the savannahs in the interior is 
of a much richer quality :— in consequence, the 
inhabitants on the coast are obliged to have their 
provision grounds, and plantain walks, on the banks 
of rivei*s, or streams, many miles up from the sea ; 
with the exception however, of cassava, which, 
thriving on a sandy soil, can be planted close to 
the coast settlements. In this respect, the coun- 



116 DEER. IRON he. 

try of the Valientes Tiribees and Ramas is de- 
cidedly superior to that occupied by the Mosquito 
men and their immediate neighbours. 

We observed the tracks of several deer on the 
sandy paths ; and, on mentioning the sparkling 
appearance of the sand, which in some places 
shone like filings of steel, Dnimmer assured me, 
that, in one part of this extensive savannah, about 
thirty miles from his settlement, natural iron could 
be procured in considerable quantity ; — but as I 
saw no specimen of tlie metal, I only mention the 
circumstance as Avorthy of investigation. 

My host had provided an excellent breakfast, 
but complained that last night's debauch had 
'• spoiled his head, " a common expression of the 
Mos(|uito men, who, unlike the Indians to the 
southward, have no objection to " spoil their 
heads" whenever they can by any means procure 
nim. During breakfast my attention was attract- 
ed by the peculiarly interesting, and expressive ap- 
pearance of an Indian boy, about seven years of 
age. Nelson informed me, that, on one of their 
predatory expeditions, about three months ago> 
they had suddenly come upon a canoe, containing 
this boy, with his little sister and their father : the 
man leapt overboard and escaped by swimming, 
but the poor children were seized, and brought 
away as slaves. 

I may here observe, that the whole of the In- 
dians of these settlements, instigated by the infer- 
nal policy of the Mosquito chiefs, used, formerly, 
to make frequent incursions upon the neighbour- 
ing tribes of Cookras, Woolwas, and Toacas, bor- 
dering on the Spanish territory, — for the sole pur- 
pose of seizing and selling them for slaves to the 



EXPEDITIONS AGAINST THE COOKRAS. 117 

settlers, and chief men on different parts of the 
Mosquito Shore. Much misery has here re- 
sulted to these poor people, who, although now 
seldom annoyed, have withdrawn themselves 
far into the interior ; and hold very little inter- 
course with the Indians on the coast. The Cook- 
ras are now seldom seen ; the Woolwas have 
also retired from the coast, and their settlements 
are on the upper branches of the rivers Nuevo 
Segovia, Rio Grande, and others, at a considera- 
ble distance from those of the Coast Indians and 
Mosquito men. Drummer had, in his early years, 
been an intolerable scourge to these inland tribes, 
and, to the Woolwas in particular, some hmidreds 
of whom had been, from first to last, captured by 
him and his parties, and sold as slaves. His me- 
thod was, to steal upon, and, if possible, in the ab- 
sence of the males, surprise the temporary settle- 
ments or residences of the small roving parties 
moving about the heads of the rivers spoken, of, 
seize the women and children, and effect his re- 
treat, if possible, without fighting. In some in- 
stances, these kidnappers have gone as far back as 
the settlements of the Spaniards and Spanish 
Creoles, whose wives and children they have not 
hesitated to carry off, and appropriate to their own 
use. A circumstance of this kind occurred while 
I was resident on the Shore. One of the sons of 
Drummer not meeting with the Indians, of whom 
they were in search, penetrated to the back settle- 
ments of the Spaniards, — -on their retreat down 
the river they surprised a dorie, containing a Spa- 
nish Creole, his wife, and two children ; the man 
saved his own life by instant flight, but the wo- 
man, far advanced in pregnancy, and the children, 



118 



CAPTIVES. 



were seized, carried to Pearl Kay Lagoon, and o^-* 
fered for sale to Mr Ellis. That gentleman, much 
to his honour, not only declined to buy them, hut 
having got them into his house, refused to deliver 
them up to their captors, treated the poor woman, 
who was delivered in his house of a fine boy, with 
the greatest humanity and attention ; and by his 
influence with the Mosquito king, and considera- 
ble exertion, got them restored to their family and 
friends, for which humane conduct he received the 
thanks of the Spanish authorities of the district to 
which they belonged. Many other instances of 
this good man's exertions in the cause of humanity 
could be related. 

I repeat, that it is more through the diabolical 
instigation of the Mosquito chiefs, than any cruelty 
of disposition on the part of the pure Indians, that 
these inhuman outrages are committed against, 
those who would otherwise be considered in every^ 
sense of the word their brethren ; but, as the in-- 
fluence of the Mosquito chiefs is daily decreasing^ 
these cruel proceedings will gradually cease. 

In my own mind I had often resolved the pos- 
sibility of ascending some of the gi'eater rivers^ 
for the purpose of ascertaining their course, the, 
nature of the country, and the manners and condi-' 
tion of the tribes in the interior, — the proximity 
of Bluefield's River to the Lakes of Nicaragua, 
Leon and the South Sea, — and whether there 
were any considerable tribes in the interior, among 
whom new sources of trade could be opened ; and, 
I had wished to procure one of these captives^ 
whom I intended, by kind treatment and educa- 
tion, to attach to me, so that he might assist me 
as a guide and interpreter among his countrymen* 



PRINZAPULKO RIVER. il9 

On mentioning this to Drumnijer, he readily of- 
fered to sell me the little Woolwa, ahove mention- 
ed, for twenty pounds ; to secure him, I was 
obliged to part with nearly the whole of my 
wearing apparel, which had, accidentally, been 
seen and coveted by Nelson ; * and, although I 
was afterwards obliged to pait with this youth un- 
der particular circumstances, I have the satisfac- 
tion to hope his situation has been bettered by my 
interference. 

Dalbis having agreed to accompany me to Prin- 
zapulko River, about thirty miles distant, I paid 
for the three dories, and the tortoise-shell which I 
had purchased, and we left the settlement about 
sunset, — with easy paddling we arrived^at Prinza- 
pulko River next morning early, and were well 
received by the headman " Captain " Tarra. Al- 
though a fine stream, it has, like Rio Grande, a 
dangerous bar, with only about four feet water 
over it. The Indians, who are settled on its^ left 
bank, about seven miles up from the sea, and on 
the banks of a small lake about ten miles distant 
from this station, are, in number, something more 
than one hundred ; — they are the same race of 
people as those at Great River ; but, unlike Drum- 
mer, the chiefs here, have found it their interest 
to encourage and protect, rather than oppress, the 
Woolwas and Dongulas of the interior ; and, in 
consequence, they carry on a small trade in ca- 
noes, dories, and pittpans, which these tribes 
bring down the river roughly formed or blocked 
out, and they ai'e afterwards neatly finished, and 

* Nelson was, some time after this transaction, killed 
by tile Woofwas in a predatory excursion against them. 



120 PRINZAPULKO INDIANS. 

decorated for saie. The great size of these ca- 
noes, formed out of the trunk of a single tree of 
cedar, or mahogany, is a proof of the immense 
timber which grows in tlieir country ; and, of the 
valuable trade that might be carried on with them, 
were they protected from the Mosquito men, and 
encouraged to visit the coast. I have known some 
of these canoes above thirty-five feet long, about 
five feet deep, and nearly six feet broad. I found 
that those made of mahogany are best for work- 
ing to windwai-d under a press of sail ; but that 
those of cedar are more buoyant, and do not sink 
even when full of water and partly loaded. 

When the Prinzapulko Indians are desirous of 
procuring a vessel of the largest dimensions, the 
contract is made by giving the Indian with whom 
they agree, a piece of twine or packthread, on 
which is marked, by knots, the length, breadth, and 
depth of the vessel wanted : The Indian is at the 
same time furnished in advance, with two or three 
axies, adzes, and other articles, to the value of a- 
bout one fourth of the price agreed on, — and he 
delivers a duplicate of these dimensions, together 
with a piece of silk grass, with knots upon it, cor- 
responding to the number of days in which he has 
agreed to fulfil his contract. One of these knots 
is cut off, or unloosed daily ; and when tliey are 
reduced to the last, they can with certainty reckon 
upon the immediate appearance of the contractor, 
or his friends ; and in case of death, or accident, 
the latter invariably consider themselves bound to 
fulfil the agreement. 

The headman at Prinzapulko, has great influ- 
ence with these Indians of the interior. An in- 
telligent native, named Brown, has also been very 



I 



CAPTAIN TARRA. BROWN. 121 

instrumental in encouraging the country Indians to 
bring their rough dories and other articles to 
Prinzapulko for sale ; and they now visit this place 
in preference to any other on the coast. In ex- 
change for these rough blocks, and such other ar- 
ticles as they have for sale, they receive old axes, 
adzes, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles of 
a similar description. There can be little doubt, 
that, by establishing proper depots among them, 
new sources of wealth might be discovered in the 
interior, and a valuable trade might be opened 
with the Spanish settlements. 

Brown, the Indian above mentioned, accompa- 
nied me on several trading voyages, and I always 
found him faithful and trustworthy, even in situa- 
tions of the most trying nature. 

Having arranged with Tarra for three dories, 
and a small quantity of tortoise-shell, I returned 
to Great River (Rio Grande), and from thence, 
after having agi'eed at both places to become the 
purchaser of their next season's collection of tor- 
toise shell, I removed with the craft I had pur- 
chased, and my young Woolwa, who appeared 
pleased at getting out of the hands of his captors, 
to Pearl Kay Lagoon, intending to return from 
thence, to my residence at Chrico Mola, by one 
of the trading vessels from Jamaica, expected to 
call, as usual, at English Bank on her way down 
the coast. On my arrival at the Lagoon, I pro-, 
ceeded to my friend Mr Ellis at Wawashaan ; and, 
I was again received by him with his usual kind- 
ness, and hospitalit^^ 

In a few days afterwards the traders with whom 
I had in some measure connected myself, arrived 

K 4 



122 



SEPERATION FROM 



at English Bank ; and, on their coming up to Wa- 
washaan, I could easily perceive by the coolness 
of their behaviour to me, that the activity of my 
proceedings had excited their avancious jealousy, 
which keeps them at all times on the watch, and 
ready to crush every person likely to break in upon 
their trade. As a proof of the extent of this con- 
cealed, and strictly secret trade, I may mention, 
without fear of contradiction, that one trader alone 
generally has goods, tortoise-shell, and outstanding 
debts, at the different depots along the coast, ne- 
ver amounting to less than between five and six 
thousand pounds sterling in value. By artfully 
connecting himself with some of the leading na- 
tives in the maimer already stated, he contrives 
not only to receive the whole proceeds of theu* ex- 
ertions ; but, by some manoeuvre or other, keeps 
the Indians constantly indebted to him, and his 
party, however great may be their success, in fish- 
ing, or otherwise. 

It might be tedious and uninteresting to naiTate 
all the occurrences which now induced me to se- 
parate myself from their interests : — suffice it to 
say, that, having successfully used great exertions 
to forward their views, in the reasonable hope that 
they would consider me entitled to share in the 
profits of my own labours, I was very much dis- 
appointed to find this was quite contrary to their 
policy : and, indignant at such treatment, I deter- 
mined on endeavouring to interest more liberal and 
enlightened people in the plans which I had con- 
ceived for trade and discovery. With this inten-^ 
tion I determined, instead of returning to Chrico 
Mola, to proceed to the northward ; and, trust i4 
the honesty of old Jasper, and my friend Wbyke6 



THE OTHER TIIADEKS. 123 

Tara, to protect my property tbere, until I should 
be able to reclaim it, rather than return with these 
traders, whose demands upon me, I settled to with- 
in a mere trifle, for which balance they insisted 
on taking' the young ¥/oolwa in pledge. 

Being, in every sense of the word, entirely in 
their power, I was obliged, for the time, to sub- 
mit to this revolting measure, upon a promise, that 
my views in regard to his education, and treatment, 
should be adopted; and in the hope that I should 
shortly be able to reclaim liimj out of their hands. 



CHAPTER VI. 

ADMIRAL EARNEE— TRIBUTE— KING S HOUSES— 

TOWKA INDIANS PARA LAGOON BRANCMAN's 

BLUFF SAVANNAHS DEER SANDY BAY 

CONVERSATIONS WITH THE INDIANS ARRIVAL, 

RECEPTION, AND CHARACTER OF THE MOSQUITO 
KING COUNCIL MUSIC AND MUSICAL IN- 
STRUMENTS HISTORY OF DON CARLOS AND 

GOVERNOR CLEMENTI SOIL AND PRODUCE 

MARL — PIPE CLAY — JOURNEY TO CAPE GRACIAS 
A DIOS. 

In pursuance of my determination to proceed to 
the northward, I quitted Pearl Kay Lagoon, and, 
returning, by Rio Grande, to Prinzapulko^ I there, 
according to my expectation, met Admiral Earnee, 
one of the three principal chiefs of the Mosquito 
Shore, who had been as far to the southward as 
Boco del Toro collecting the King's tribute. He 
came to Prinzapulko in a large boat or dorie, at- 
tended by others of a smaller description ; and was 
received by Captain Tarra, Brown, and other na- 
tives, who conducted him to the King's house, 
with every mark of respect. He is a complete 
black, or negro, without the least appearance of 
Indian blood ; but I found him to be, when sober, 



II 



ADMIRAL EARNEE. 125 

a sensible, shrewd, and intelligent man, a descend- 
ant from some of the Sambo negroes, who were, 
many years ago, wrecked on this coast. As he 
had announced the day when he should arrive 
here, preparations had been made for him and a- 
bout twenty-five people his attendants, who were 
amply supplied with provisions, and feasted at the 
King's house. The tribute was also in readiness, 
the ]3rincipal part in tortoise-shell ; a single back 
of shell being demanded from every canoe em- 
ployed in turtleing during the season. The same 
value in dories, hammocks, or coarse cotton cloth 
of the country being exacted from those canoes 
employed in any other manner. 

In reference to the King's houses ; it is necessary 
to observe, that the principal settlements of the 
Samboes and their immediate allies, form a chain of 
hamlets, at certain distances, from one end of the 
Mosquito Shore proper^ to the other ; and, in each 
of these, a house called the King's, is erected by 
the joint labour of the community, and appropriat- 
ed for the reception of the King, or his officers, 
when they visit the settlement. In it, also, the 
headman of the settlement, or one of the three 
-principal chiefs who govern the coast, decide con- 
troversies, and frame laws and regulations, which 
are afterwards sanctioned by the King before being 
carried into effect. Some of these houses are of 
considerable size, and built with great care and 
solidity. 

3o soon as Earnee knew my intention of visit- 
ing the King, he offered me every assistance in his 
power ; and, after remaining a few days at Prinza- 
pulko, I accompanied him on his journey to th^ 
K 2 



126 



WAVA RIVER. 



Cape. We left the settlement at mklnight with 
the land breeze down tlie river. This breeze ge- 
nerally begins to blow off the shore about sunset, 
and continues until about ten o'clock next morn- 
ing. Finding a dangerous sea running on the bai^ 
Eai'Hee, myself, and some of his attendants, land- 
ed at the mouth of the river, and proceeded along 
the coast towards Tongula Lagoon, leaving the 
rest of the people in the dories, to endeavour to 
make their passage by sea. We crossed the river 
leading to the Lagoon, and continued our joumey 
until the sea breeze should begin to blow down 
the coast ; and we remained, at one of the King's 
houses, erected, for the convenience of travellers, 
at a small distance from the sea-bank, about half 
way between Prinzapulko and Wava Lagoon, near 
a haulover, of about five hundred yards in length, 
into the Tongula Lagoon, where the canoes join- 
ed us. 

There are a few Mosquito men, and Tongula 
Indians, settled at this place ; but no white peo- 
ple, nor their descendants, — we were plentifully 
supplied with provisions and other refreshments by 
the natives. 

In the evening, the canoes were again launched, 
but the Admiral, myself, and a few others, con- 
tinued our journey along the beach as before ; and, 
about midnight, we arrived on the banks of the 
Wava River, leading to a considerable lagoon^ of 
the same name ; here we found a canoe had been 
left to convey us across the river, which is of con- 
siderable width, but the bar is both shalloAv arid 
dangerous : a heavy sea falls on the coast, render- 
ing the approach to it very unsafe, there being se- 



I 



TOWKA INDIANS. 127 

veral shoals, and small kays, either very iimacur- 
ately laid down, or not at all noticed in the charts. 

Considerable numbers of Towka Indians reside 
on the banks of a large river which empties itself 
into the Wava Lagoon ; and is said to have its 
source upwards of 150 miles in the interior. At 
a small distance from Wava Lagoon, is Para La- 
goon, connected with it by a considerable stream ; 
and, near Para, is the residence of " the governor," 
one of the three principal chiefs of the country. 

Having crossed Para River, we proceeded to 
Brancman's Bluff, and from one of the heights of 
that place we had a most extensive view of the 
country, which, as far as the eye can reach, is all 
low savannah land, covered with coai'se long grass, 
and occasional pine ridges, with remarkably large, 
and fine, timber. This is the case with most of 
the savannah land, on the coast of the Mosquito 
Shore ; the only exception being, that some of the 
very low land is covered with water, during the 
rainy season, producing only rank coarse grass, 
and mohoe bushes. 

The country about Brancmans abounds in deer ; 
— one of them having been seen, from the heights, 
feeding in the savannah, an Indian stripped off all 
his clothes ; and, keeping to leeward, watching its 
motions, he continued creeping towards it on his 
hands and feet, remaining motionless, except when 
it put down its head to graze ; he got within a- 
bout fifty yards ; and then, easily brought it down 
with a rifle ball. The Indians divided it amongst 
them, reserving some of the best pai'ts for our 
supper. 

It is a singular circumstance, that from the last 
(juarter's ebb to the fixst quarter's flood, these deer 



128 SANDY BAY. 

are fond of grazing on the coast, a little above high 
watermark : I often availed myself of this cir-* 
cumstance ; and, in passing up and down the coast, 
have landed at this point, and, by partly adopting 
the Indian plan, never failed to procure venison. 

In the middle of the night we again launch- 
ed the dories ; after passing the Bluff, the land 
trends away considerably to the westward, and we 
gained a good offing so as to enable us, when 
the sea-breeze set in, to use our sails. There is 
only one river of any magnitude between Branc- 
mans and DuckwaiTa, which we passed ; and we 
amved at Sandy Bay about eleven o'clock, being 
now distant from Cape Gracias a Dios, about thir- 
ty miles. 

At the southermost part of Sandy Bay is the 
entrance to a small Lagoon, on the borders of 
which is a principal settlement of the Mosquito 
Indians, where the King frequently resides ; it is 
close to the Lagoon, about eight miles from its en- 
trance, and in the vicinity of a savannah, similar 
to those already described. The Lagoon has a 
communication with Wano or Warner's sound ; 
but no river, of any consequence, falls into either 
of these places. 

On our an-ival, the Admiral was met and wel- 
comed by the principal people : English colours 
were hoisted, as the signal of festivity ; we were 
informed, that a canoe having arrived from the 
Cape, with information that the King was on 
his way to visit the settlement, and having met 
the Admiral, preparations were making for a grand 
feast and mishlaw drink. For this purpose ""the 
whole population were employed, — most of them 
being engaged collecting pine apples^ plantains, 



I 



I 



MISHLAW DRINK. 129 

bananas, and cassava, for their favourite liquor. 
The expressed juice of the pine apple is alone a 
pleasant and agreeable beverage. The mishlaw 
from the plantain and banana, is also both plea- 
sant and nutritive ; that from the cassava and maize, 
is more intoxicating; but its preparation, is an 
operation so disgusting, that, did I not consider it 
an imperative duty to suppress nothing that tends 
to elucidate the manners, and habits, of these dif- 
ferent tribes, and their still great distance from 
civilization, I should pass it over, without notice. 
The method of preparing it, is as follows. The 
root of the cassava, after being mashed, and peel- 
ed, is boiled to the same consistence, as when to 
be used for food. On its being taken from the 
fire, the water is poured off, and the roots allow- 
ed to cool. The pots were then surrounded by 
all the women, old and young, who, being provid- 
ed with large wooden bowls, commenced an at- 
tack upon the cassava, which they chewed to a 
consistance of thick paste, and then put their 
mouthfuls into the bowls before them, until these 
vessels were filled ; the bowls were then earned 
to the king's house, and the contents tumbled in- 
to a new canoe which had been hauled up from 
the landing-place, and put there for that purpose, 
there being no cask in the settlement sufficiently 
capacious. I observed that some few of the young 
men also joined in the masticating process, which 
was continued with much perseverance, until the 
joint produce of the wooden bowls, from every 
house in the settlement, had filled the canoe about 
one third* Other cassava was then taken, and 
bruised in a kind of large wooden mortar, with a 
wooden pestle, to a consistence of dough, which 



130 CHICHEE DRINK. 

was afterwards diluted with cold water, to which 
was added, a quantity of Indian corn, partly boiled 
and masticated, in the same manner as the cassava; 
the whole was then poured into the canoe, which 
was afterwards filled with water, and frequently 
stirred with a paddle, until, in a few hours, it waa 
in a high, and abominable state of fermentation, j 
The Admiral affirmed that tlie saliva imbibed, was j 
the principal cause of the sudden fermentation; 
that if the whole had been bruised and prepared with 
water only, the liquor would, before fermentation, 
become too sour for use ; and, that the liquor 
v/as more or less esteemed, according to the health, 
age, and constitution of the masticators ; that, there- 
fore, when he himself wished to give a private 
Chichee drink, he took care that none but his 
own wives, and young girls, should be employed ; 
but, as there had been few old women engaged in 
its preparation, he thought the liquor before us 
would be tolerable, and ^' make drunk come soon." 
The canoe would contain about three puncheons, 
and there was nearly the same quantity prepai'ed 
at two or three houses of the chief men, in the 
neighbourhood ; besides drink of a less beastly 
description, viz. the simply expressed juice of the 
pine aple ; and, the plantain and banana mish- 
law, being the ripe fruit roasted, bruised, and mix- 
ed with water. There was also Mr Ellis's pre- 
sent to the King, of about twenty gallons of rum ; 
a quantity brought by the Admiral and his party, 
and a small quantity presented by myself. Eamee, 
had invited the head men and old people of Duck- 
warra, Wano Sound, and the neighbouring coun- 
try and Lagoons, to meet the King, receive an ac- 
count of the state of the diffei'ent tributary settle- 



THE MOSQUITO KING. 131 

ments, which he had been visiting, transact public 
business, and get drunk. 

The King's house, Earnee's, a Saniboe chief de- 
signated General Blyatt, with a few others, were 
tolerably large, similar to that of governor Dinm- 
mer, and tolerably well furnished with benches, 
tables, plates, glasses, basins, knives and forks, 
and other articles. A hammock was hung up in 
the Admiral's house for each of his guests, accord- 
ing to custom ; and, after a great deal of conver- 
sation about the state of the country, the customs, 
strength, and trade of the different settlements, 
and the general policy of the Mosquito-men, I re- 
tired to rest, pleased with the attention shown to 
me, but rather puzzled and alarmed, by the mag- 
nitude of the preparations, for the approaching 
feast. 

The Admiral, during our journey up from Prinza- 
pulko had related several ane^otes of the King, 
and had given me some knowledge of his charac- 
ter. The Admiral seemed to regret the King's 
want of attention to the real interests of his coun- 
try ; his too great partiality for liquor and women: 
his extreme levity, and, the facihty with which he 
associated with, and listened to, every visionary 
scheme submitted to him by the traders ; the 
ease with which the patriot General Aurey had 
got him entangled in one of his expeditions a- 
gainst the Spaniards at TiTixillo ; and his general 
inattention to the safety, and prosperity, of his sub- 
jects. He also regretted that there was no British 
superintendarits on the coast, as formerly, in the time 
of Colonel Hodgson, when the Mosquito Indians 
could find employment, and a demand for their pro- 
duce, at Black River, and the other settlements ; and 



132 RECEPTION OF THE KING. 

the chiefs, throughout the coast, could dress them- 
selves, and live, " right English gentleman fa-t 
shion. " The chiefs, and old men, agreed with 
him in these observations ; and, they also, univer- j 
sally disproved of the arbitrary manner in which 
the Jamaica traders exerted the influence they had j 
acquired at some of the settlements of the coast, * 
adding, that rather than deal with them, they had | 
actually, this season, sold the greater part of their ] 
tortoise-shell to the Americans, who, although 
they had such a variety of goods, were fairer 
dealers, and gave a better price. 

Early in the morning, I was awakened by the 
noise of the drum ; the natives were in a state of 
bustle and activity, preparing for the diinking 
match, and the reception of the King. He ar- 
rived, in a large canoe, with ten people, escorted 
by the same number in two smaller ones. At the 
landing-place he was met by Admiral Earnee and 
General Blyatt, with some of the chief men of the 
neighbouring settlements ; the two former dressed 
in uniforms, with gold epaulettes. There was 
little form or ceremony used in their reception of 
the King ; a shake of the hand, and " how do you 
do, King, " in English, being the only salutation 
from all classes. Briefly inquiring my motives 
for coming to see him, he invited me to go with 
him to the Cape, and I could then, at leisure, 
judge how far he could second my views, and how 
he was situated with his people, amongst whom, 

* They have been known to flog an Indian because he 
could [not, at the stipulated time, pay a small debt ; and 
they often take advantage of the natives, by making them 
intoxicated ; and, in that state, get them to part with the 
produce of their labours, without aa equivalent. 



MOSQUITO COUNCIL. 133 

four years ago, on his return from Jamaica, where 
he was educated, he found himself quite a stranger. 

He was a young man, about twenty-four years 
of age, of a bright copper colour, with long curly 
hair hanging in ringlets down the sides of his 
face ; his hands and feet small, a dark expressive 
eye, and very white teeth. He was an active and 
handsome figure, with the appearance of greater 
agility than strength. In other respects I found 
him, on further acquaintance, wild as the deer on 
his native savannahs. 

During the day, Indians arrived from various 
parts of the coast, and interior. At the meeting 
which took place in the King's house, various mat- 
ters relative to the government of the neighbour- 
ing settlements, disputes^ and other public busi- 
ness, was discussed ; and I observed, that the King 
left every thing to the discretion of Earnee, Blyatt, 
and a few others. In fact, he seemed to take lit- 
tle interest or trouble, further than to sanction the 
resolutions passed, so that they might be promul- 
gated as " the King's own order. " Such is the 
expression ; and that order is invariably obeyed, 
and carried into effect. During the time the coun- 
cil was sitting, no women were admitted ; a few 
only were afterwards permitted to enter, during 
the drinking match, to take care of their hus- 
bands, when reduced to a state of insensibility by 
intoxication. 

The discussions in the King's house being end- 
ed, the feasting began. Two men were stationed 
by the side of the canoe, who filled the mish- 
law drink into calabashes, which were then car- 
ried to the company by boys. As the men be- 
I. 



134 MOSQUITO FEAST A| 

came exhilarated, they began to dance, in imita-" 
tion of country dances, and Scotch reels, learned 
from the former English settlers ; but they sooiim i 
became too much intoxicated to preserve orderB! 
Every one, including the King and his select friends 
at the Admiral's house, gave way, without re- 
straint, to the pleasures of drinking ; and, during 
the evening, the King's uncle Andrew, chief man 
at Duckwarra, arrived, bringing one of his majes- 
ty's favourite wives. This chief was a sliort stout 
man, of unmixed Indian blood, very lively and 
quick in his motions, disguising, imder an appear- 
ance of levity, much cunning and slirewdness; — 
he spoke tolerably good English ; and soon, by 
his ridiculous stories regarding the Jamaica trad- 
ers, and by his satirical and witty remarks upon 
some of the old Mosquito men present, kept the 
company in a roar of laughter. The King observ- 
ed to me, in course of the evening, that I must 
not be suq^rised to see him act in the manner he 
was doing ; as it was his wish, by indulging the 
natives, to induce them to adopt gradually, and 
by degrees, the English customs, and mode of 
living ; and he requested me to observe how far 
he had succeeded, pointing out to me, that all 
present had thrown aside the pnlper a, the com- 
mon Indian dress, and wore jackets and trowsers, 
with good hats. Some of them had coats, with 
other -articles to correspond ; and, as I have 
often repeated, they prided themselves upon being 
^' true English gentleman- fashion." 

His majesty, as usual, paid more attention to 
the women than to the chiefs ; and, observing to 
me that the ladies here could ^ dance fully as well 
as any of those at the former English settlements, 



AND DANCE. 135 

proposed that I should join him, the Admiral, and 
uncle Andrew, in a dance ; and he would send 
for the women to join us. I of course readily as- 
sented to this proposal ; and tlie females having* 
arrived, we commenced dancing, to the sound of 
a drum, our only music-. 

Blyatt had orders to keep the party in the 
King's house from interrupting us, but our music 
being full as noisy as theirs, and the secret of the 
women's arrival having transpired, our house was 
soon surrounded by a crowd, who pressed so much, 
that it became insufferably warm ; and we were 
obliged to stop the dance ; at which circumstance, 
many of the Indians expressed such disappoint- 
ment, that the King good-nritui*edly proposed to 
renew tlie dance in the open air. The other party 
joining us, with their music, we were soon all 
jumbled together. King, Admii-al, General, Mos- 
quito men and women, in one mass of confusion 
and revelry, from which those who were ca- 
pable of reflecting were soon glad to escape. Be- 
fore the chiefs became totally intoxicated, they 
ordered the women home to their houses, to pre- 
vent their being unable to take care of their hus- 
bands. The drinking was c^nied on with great 
perseverance, during the night, by old and young. 
The drums were beat, and muskets fired, some of 
them loaded with powder to the very muzzle, un- 
til nearly all the assembly were in a state of beast- 
ly drunkenness, and taken cai'e of by the women, 
who were occasionally called upon for that pur- 
pose. • At intervals, however, as the men recover- 
ed, they found their way back to their favourite 
mishlaw, and renewed the debauch. All the next 
day was consumed in drinking ; and, it was not until 



136 MUSIC. 

the day following, that tlie liquors wei'e reduced 
to the very dregs of the cassava and maize, which, 
even then, was taken from the hottom of the ves- 
sels, and heing squeezed through the fingers, hy 
handfuls, into the calahashes, was passed to those 
who were still craving for more of the precious 
beverage. By the third night, the whole liquors 
were consumed ; and the Indians began to retire 
to their respective homes, many complaining, with 
great reason, that " their heads were all spoiled. '* 
It is however to their credit, that, during the 
whole of this debauch, I did not perceive the 
slightest quarrel. 

I may here observe, that the English drum is 
the principal musical instrument of the Mosquito 
men, who beat it with as much dexterity, as the 
most practised European drummer ; it came into 
use when the British forces were on the Mos- 
quito Shore, and has been a great favourite ever 
since, every settlement having one. The only 
other musical instrument, which 1 saw, was a rude 
pipe or flute, rather longer than a common flute, 
but much thicker. It is made of the hollow bam- 
boo, — one end is shaped like a flageolet, with hole 
and mouthpiece, and it has four finger-holes, the 
first about two thirds down the length of the in- 
strument, the others at intervals of about half an 
inch ; it requires considerable exertion to sound 
it, and produces a dull monotonous tone, with 
very little variation. Two of these instruments 
are sounded together; the performers dancing a 
sort of minuet, in which they advance and recede, 
with the most gi'otesque gesticulations. One of 
their favourite dances is a kind of representation, 
characteristic of an Indian courtship. 



GOVERNOIl CLExMENTI. 137 

Governor Clementi, one of the three principal 
diiefs of the Mosquito Shore, not having* made his 
appearance at this feast, it was determined to send 
a. person to endeavour to conciliate him. The 
causes of this chief's aversion to join cordially with 
the other chiefs, are as follows : — his late brother, 
commonly called Don Carlos, had been, some time 
before, put to death by the King's people, on pre- 
tence that he was too much attached to the Spa- 
niards of Grenada and Nicaragua, with whom he 
had opened an intercourse, and had received from 
them considerable presents, of cattle, &c. This 
man was supposed, by the King's party, to have 
had the design of assisting the Spaniards, in form- 
ing a settlement on the Mosquito coast ; but, it 
is more probable that> his Spanish connexion, was 
one of the pretences — -not the entire cause of his 
being destroyed. He was an Indian of pure blood, 
and considerable ability — the only man of that de- 
scription, with exception of his brother Clementi, 
who held any situation of consequence, under the 
Mosquito King's government ; he possessed great 
influence among the Indians, including the differ- 
ent tribes of Woolwas and Cookras. His owa 
immediate government extending from Sandy Bay 
to Pearl Kay Lagoon, w^as likely, in time, to be- 
come too powerful for the Mosquito-men, and 
they, in a treacherous, and summary manner, put 
him to death. Since that event, his brother Cle- 
menti never visited the King, nor any of the settle- 
ments of the real Mosquito-men, This breach, 
between the King and Clementi, had been widened 
by the insolence of a favourite negro belonging to 
the former, who had, some time ^o, accompanied 
l2 



138 GOVERNOR CLEMB^TI. 

Robert, the present King's brother, on a visit to 
Clementi, who received and treated them with great ■ 
liospitality ; but this negro, at a feast made in hon- J 
our of Robert, not only grossly insulted the Go-j 
vernor, but, presuming on his own influence with! 
the King, and the supposed imbecility of Clementi, 
forcibly broke up some of the latter 's repositories^! 
and insisted upon caiTying off certain articles,! 
which had attracted his cupidity. Robert declin-^ 
ing to interfere, Clementi seized a musket, and 
shot the negro dead, upon the spot. The King, 
not daring openly to attack the governor, endea- 
voured to revenge himself by seizing and driving 
away the cattle, whenever he had occasion for 
them : — but to prevent this annoyance, Clementi, 
voluntarily, destroyed or drove them away out of 
the King's reach ; and now, instead of the numer- 
ous herds that, during the time of Don Pedro, a- 
bounded in the savannahs, not one is to be seen. 
It was now supposed that Clementi meditated re- 
venge ; and, to prevent a civil war, between the 
Indians and Mosquito men, the King, previous to 
his return to the Cape, was desirous of conciliat- 
ing Clementi. The King had other reasons for 
coming to friendly terms with him : he was aware 
that he had once, grossly insulted Earnee, *his best 
friend, and the only chief, since the death of " Ge- 
neral " Robinson, capable of governing the coun- 
try, — ^by forcibly using freedoms, during Earnee's 
absence, with one of his favourite wives ; and, 
that, in consequence, Earnee had some time ago 
formed an alliance with Clementi, by marrying 
Clementi's youngest sister, and might, in the event 
of a quarrel, join the Governor. Earnee excused 
himself from undertaking this expedition ; and I 



MODE OF TRAVELLING. 139 

was therefore requested by the King, to accompany 
Blyatt, with about twenty people, to Clementi, 
with a King's letter, in which it was stated, that 
not being able to come himself, he had empower- 
ed the Admiral to assist him in punishing any of 
his people who were refractory, or refused to obey 
his authority ; but that the Admiral being un- 
able to come, had sent Blyatt. I was directed to 
read this letter to Clementi, in presence of Blyatt,, 
who was to explain that " the paper wliich 
spoke, was the King's own self order, and must be 
obeyed. " 

We accordingly set out, and, travelling about 
eight miles to the upper part of Wava Lagoon, 
embarked in three canoes, which brought us to a 
river where we landed ; and, crossing an extensive 
savannah, came to a branch of the Wava River, 
where we found canoes to convey us to the sa- 
vannah where the Governor resided. Crossing the 
river we slept on its banks, until midnight, when 
we renewed our journey. 

The Indians, on their long journeys, generally 
travel until ten o'clock in the morning, they then 
rest until two or three o'clock in the afternoon ; 
then they continue their journey, until day-light 
fails them. At the different halting places, they 
sleep upon a few palm leaves on the ground, 
slightly covered with a light blanket, and I gene- 
rally rose refreshed, and never experienced any 
bad effects, from this method of bivouacking : be- 
fore going to rest, a fire is kindled, and the ne- 
cessary provisions cooked. In travelling, they only 
wear the pulpera, but they carry with them, and 
put on, a suit of their best clothes, at a short dis- 




140 VISIT TO CLEMENTI, 

taiice from the house of the person they mean to 
visit. 

About ten o'clock, we came to a savannah, 
through which there was a good path to the Go- 
vernor's house, about a mile distant ; and, Earnee, 
having privately sent to apprise Clementi of the 
intended visit, recommending that he should in- 
vite his friends to a mishlaw drink, and be pre- 
4)ai-ed to meet the King's party, we found some 
of his people at this place waiting to conduct us. 
Our party having dressed themselves, Blyatt, my- 
self, and one or two others, mounted horses which 
liad been sent for our accommodation ; we fell in- 
to Indian marching order, one before another, 
and, with our flag and drum preceding us, we ap- 
proached the house, before which, about twenty 
men besides women and children were assembled. 
The house is situated on a rising ground, com- 
manding an extensive view of the savannah, oii 
which there were several fine horses feeding, but I 
could not discover any black cattle, although there 
was evidently pasturage for thousands. 

The Governor did not come out to receive us ; 
he was sitting in the house,^ dressed in state, and 
rose to welcome Blyatt and myself, but took no 
notice of those who accompanied us. The ap- 
pearance, and demeanour of this old chief, struck 
me very forcibly ; and impressed upon my mind 
that I had, before me, a true descendant and re- 
presentative of the ancient Indian Caziques. He 
was a tall stout man, apparently between fifty and 
sixty years of age, with an Indian countenance, 
peculiarly expressive of thoughtful dignity ; I could 
not help thinking, that he looked as if he felt de- 
gi-aded by tie yoke of the Mosquito-men, — that he 



DRESS OF THE GOVERNOR. 141 

had been bom to command, and still felt conscious, 
like " old Crozimbo, " that he was " not the least 
among his countrymen. " He was dressed in an 
old Spanish uniform, of blue cloth with red collar 
and facings, decorated with a great profusion of 
tarnished gold lace ; an old embroidered white 
satin vest, ornamented with spangles, and having 
large pocket holes with flaps ; a pair of old white 
kerseymere breeches ; white cotton stockings ; . 
shoes, with silver buckles ; and, a large gold head- 
ed cane, similar to those used by the superior Cor- 
regidores and Alcaldes of the South American 
provinces, — completed his dress. 

These clothes, which were of the most ancient 
cut, had descended to him from his unfortunate 
brother ; and altogether, the dignified appearance, 
and manners, of this old chief, contrasted strongly 
with the coarse brutality of the Mosquito-men, and 
impressed upon my mind, that the domination of 
tlie Samboes, had materially retarded the prospeii- 
ty of the genuine Indians. Clementi ordered re- 
freshments, and provided plentifully, in a separate 
house, for those who came in our company, al- 
lowing none but the principal men to sit at his 
own table. 

After dinner I read the King's letter, at the 
contents of which, the Governor expressed satis- 
faction ; a tall young pine-tree was cut, the En- 
glish flag hoisted upon it in front of the house, 
and the Governor seemed to feel he was now 
treated with proper respect and reinstated in his 
rights and privileges : he pointed out two or three 
Indians who he conceived had disputed his au- 
thority, or injured him ; they were immediately 
secured by Blyatt's people, and tied up ; but in- 




142 THE HILL PEOPLE. 

Stead of being fiogged, in the usual way, the 
stripes were laid on a dried bull's hide, instead of 
the backs of the offenders. Whether this mum- 
mery really satisfied the Governor, or he felt it 
convenient to dissemble, I could not determine at 
tlie moment ; but I afterwards learnt, that to have 
undergone this nominal punishment, was consider- 
ed by the free Indians, a very serious degradation^ 
The evening passed over without any cause of dis- 
agTeement ; I repeatedly read over the King's let- 
ter *' which spoke, " and the Governor seemed 
pleased to find himself freed from the probability 
of further annoyance from the King's people. He 
showed me several letters, and certificates given 
to him, and his late brother, by traders, and 
others ; all of them testifying to their honour and 
fair dealing. 

The land, in this part af the country, is low sa- 
vannah, covered p^tially with patches of large 
pine-trees. The principal provision ground of the 
Governor's people is distant, at a place called the 
Hills, from which circumstance they are known, all 
over the coast, by the name o^ hill people. These 
hills, or elevations, three in number, are to the 
westward of Brancmans, at a considerable distance 
inland ; being but of moderate height, they cannot 
be distinguished, in approaching from the sea ; the 
land there, and to the westward, is extremely rich, 
and well cultivated, supplying the people at Sandy 
Bay, Cape Gracias a Dios, and other places on the 
coast, with the greater part of their provisions, 
such as bananas, plantains, &c. Being too distant 
from the coast to combine the advantages of agri- 
culture, with those of fishing and trading, no 
strangers have yet settled on this high ground* 



MARL. WHITE CLAY. 143 

In crossing the pine ridges, a small distance to the 
westward of Brancman's BlufFj in the path that 
leads to the Pai'a Lagoon, I discovered some pits 
of fine marl ; and also, an exceedingly fine white 
clay, equal to the best pipe-clay I ever saw ; if 
the Indians understood any thing of the manufac- 
ture of earthen ware, they have here an inexhausti- 
ble supply of materials, of the very finest discrip- 
tion. * 

Clementi claims the whole of the land, exten- 
sive savannah, and fine ridges, from hence to the 
coast ; including the hills, and interior country ; — 
he possesses the confidence of a numerous race of 
pure Indians, and I cannot doubt that, in the event 
of any attempt, on the part of these aborigines, 
to throw off the yoke of the mixed breed of Mos- 
quito-men, he, or his successors, may be destined 
to act a prominent part ; and, on this account, I 
have been desirous of describing the little I saw of 
him, in as circumstantial a manner as possible, 

Blyat having finished his business with the Go- 
vernor, after staying with him three days we left 
his settlement, and returned through the same low 
tracts which we had recently travelled over. A 
great part of this coast is during the rainy season 
overflowed, and it is possible for a canoe to pass, 
at that season, by inland navigation, from Para 
Lagoon, to Wava River ; this is the case, gene- 
rally speaking, with all the Imv savannah land, 
from Pearl Kay Lagoon to the Cape, and from 
thence, to Plantain River. At Duckwarra;, we 
were hospitably entertained by the King's uncle 
Andrew : this jovial old man pressed us to remain 
some days with him and his fi'iends, Rowla and 

* See Note IV. 



144 CAPE GRACIAS A DIOS. 

TaiTa, two of the chiefs ; but we next morning 
proceeded on our journey. I was particularly 
well pleased with the appearance of the people at 
Andrew's settlement ; they are a fine looking* race 
— the men are active, and good strikers of fish, 
and the women and girls>ery handsome. 

On our arrival at Sandy Bay we found Earnee 
very unwell ; — he procured men and a canoe to 
attend me to the Cape, to which place I next pro- 
ceeded, by the inner passage, there being a com- 
munication between Sandy Bay and Wano Sound, 
— which is a place with only four or five feet wa- 
ter on the bar, and equally shallow inside. 

In the evening we landed at a settlement of 
Mosquito men, at the upper end of the Sound, 
and were received with that hospitality which I 
have universally found prevalent on every part of 
the coast. We resumed our journey early next 
morning, and proceeded down the Sound to its 
entrance, where we landed, and walked to the Cape, 
a distance of about eiorht miles. 



CHAPTER VII. 

CAPE GRACIAS A DIGS OLD KING GEORGE, 

THE PRESENT KING EDUCATION AT JAMAICA. 

BAD SOIL HARBOUR GREAT CAPE RIVER. 

IMPORTANCE OF THE CAPE ORIGIN OF THE 

SAMBOES CROATCH RIVER KUKARI SPOT- 
TED INDIANS CARATASCA LAGOON — FISH 

AND GAME — SOIL, PRODUCE CRATER FATOOK 

RIVER HORSES — KHARIBEES BREWERS LA- 
GOON — BLACK RIVER AND LAGOON OLD FORT. 

SETTLERS MINES FERTILITY OF THE SET- 
TLEMENTS STORY OF IAN AUSTIN. 

On my arrival at Cape Gracias a Dios, I was 
much disappointed to find only a few houses ; and 
those, with the exception of the King's, that of 
Dalby, one of his cliiefs, and an old merchant's of 
the name of Bogg, of the very worst description, 
being mere huts, barely sufficient to protect the 
natives from the weather. 

I remained several months with the King ; and 
had every opportunity of knowing him, and his 
people, intimately. The circumstances which led 
to his being sent, in his youth, to Jamaica, where 
he received a very indifferent education, are brief- 

M 



146 THE LATE MOSQUITO KING. 

ly these. His father, old King Georg©, was of 
the mixed, or Negro and Indian breed ; he was of 
a cruel, barbarous, and vindictive disposition ; he 
had been the means of enslaving many Indians of 
the Blanco, Woolwa, and Cookra tribes; and, 
like all the other Mosquito chiefs, had a great 
number of wiv^es and women, whom he often treat- 
ed with such cruelty, that some of them died un- 
der his hands. The murder of one of these wo- 
men, under circumstances of peculiar barbarity, 
called forth the resentment of her fnends, who 
created a riot, during which the King was fired 
upon, and killed, by his own people. He left two 
sons, George Frederick the present King, and his_ 
half-brother Robert, then both very young. AS I 
trader, from the Bay of Honduras, conceiving that" ' 
he might derive great advantages from the pos- 
session of these children, contrived to get them 
into his vessel, and persuaded the chiefs that they 
might derive great benefits by having their future j 
king educated " English fashion," so that he might 
understand something of the laws, manners and. 
customs, of their friends the English. The chil-* 
dren were allowed to depart ; and the chiefs form- 
ing a kind of regency, the three principal ones 
agreed to retain the country for the eldest son, 
dividing it, in the mean time, into three govern- 
ments ; the first, from Roman River, near Cape Hon- 
duras, tojPatook, including the tribes of Khari- 
bees or Caribs, Foyers, Mosquito men, and some 
negroes formerly attached to the British settle- 
ments, was confided to General Robinson. 

The second division, fiom Caratasca or Croata, 
to Sandy Bay, and Duckwarra, which included 



CORONATION OF THE PRESENT. 147 

all the Mosqnito men proper, or mL\ed breed of 
Samboes and Indiaus, was left under the rule, of 
a chief, tlie brother of the late King, under the 
name of AdmiraL 

The third division, from Brancm.ans, to Great 
River (Rio Grande) was under the charge of Don 
Carlos, denominated the Governor ; and included 
the tribes of Tongulas, Towcas, Woolwas, Cook- 
ras, &c. These three chiefs each appointed head- 
men, within their respective districts, subordinate 
to their authority. The small colonies of Sam- 
boes, at Pearl Kay Lagoon and Bluefields, were, 
however, allowed to choose their own governors. 

The children were, after some time, sent from 
Honduras to Jamaica ; and his Grace the Duke 
of Manchester is said to have shown some atten- 
tion to the eldest, who always spoke of the Duke 
with sentiments of respect and gratitude. After 
going through the routine of an indiiierent educa- 
tion, he was sent to Balize ; at which place, the 
principal Mosquito chiefs were invited to meet 
him, and the ceremony of his coronation was per- 
formed with considerable pomp ; the young chief 
being escorted to the church by tlie British super- 
intendant, the regular troops, militia, and princi- 
pal people of the settleltient. The Reverend Mr 
Armstrong put the crown (a present from the Bri- 
tish to one of Ids ancestors ) on his head ; and he 
was formally invested witjj the sword, rake, and 
spurs ; a royal salute was fired, and he w2ls styled 
Kiiig of the Mosquito Shore and Nation. 

Medals, and dresses, were presented to the 
chiefs ; and the whole were sent down to the 
coast in a British sloop of war. They were acci- 



148 CHARACIER OF THE 

dentally landed at General Robinson's residence, 
between Black River and Brewers Lagoon ; and 
tbe King unhappily commenced his reign by gross- 
ly insulting and quarrelling with the General, his 
most powerful chief. At Cape Gracias a Dios, 
the King was received in the most friendly man- 
ner by all the members of his family, who princi- 
pally reside at an extensive pine savannah called 
the Ridge, about forty miles from the Cape, at a 
short distance from the bank of the great Cape 
River. 

He frequently assured me, that, on his arrival 
at Cape Gracias a Dios, and for many months 
afterwards, he regretted having returned to his 
country, or that he had ever left it ; for he found 
himself a perfect stranger, ignorant of the interests 
of his subjects, and unacquainted with the influ- 
ence, or abilities, of the chiefs who, in other cir- 
cumstances, might have assisted him in forming 
something like a government ; wdiile, at the same 
time, he was expected by his friends the British, 
to fulfil duties, which he honestly confessed he 
was but in a very slight manner qualified to per- 
form. He seemed perfectly sensible of these de- 
ficiences, but without having energy, or applica- 
tion, to remedy them ; or to assume, and maintain, 
with propriety, the mnk and station in which Pro- 
vidence had placed him. These considerations, 
at times, embittered his life ; his good resolutions, 
and endeavours at amendment, constantly vanished, 
when they were put in competition with the plea- 
sures of the bottle, and his other^ vicious propensi- 
ties, which were encouraged by the manners and 
eu&toms of his subjects, whom he Considered it 



I 



MOSQUITO KING. 149 

necessary to conciliate, until they at Length became 
habitual to him ; and, when any vessel visited the 
coast, or whenever he could procure rum, he was 
generally in a state of intoxication. At such times, 
his naturally liberal disposition overcame his pru- 
dence ; and, his countrymen found it their interest 
to encourage this vice, and hailed the arrival of 
the traders, as the signal for indulging in their 
propensities for drinking, which they were always 
sure the King would, not only gratify to the ex- 
tent of his abilities, but that, in those misguarded 
moments, he would readily present them with any 
thing of value in his possession. Under all these 
circumstances it is not surprising that George 
Frederick failed to realize the hopes of those who 
expected better of him. After his first amval 
presents of clothing, blankets, cloth, duck, mos- 
cheats and other articles, were sent to him, by the 
British Government, for the purpose of being distri- 
buted among his people with a view to conciliate 
them, and maintain his authority ; and, at such times, 
the Reverend Mr Armstrong never failed to send 
him letters of advice regarding the regulation of his 
conduct, and the duties he owed to his people ; 
with a number of religious tracts, which were ge- 
nerally neglected, the King and his Primie Minis^ 
ter observing, that a present of rum would have 
been far more acceptable, as he foimd it impossible 
to instruct his people on points which he did not 
himself understand, and which they insisted were 
* Englishman lies. ' He was naturally of a ge- 
nerous disposition, and not destitute of ability; 
and, it is perhaps to be regretted that he did not 
receive an European, rather than an extremely loose 
M 2 



150 BAD SOIP^ AT CAPE GRACIAS. 

West Indian education : by the former he woukl 
have had a fair chance of acquiring con-ect ha- 
bits, and some idea of the importance of order and 
good government ; whereas, by the latter, he be- 
came possessed of very little really useful inform- 
ation, and had an opportunity of engi-afting, as 
it were, the had qualities of the European, and 
Creole, upon the vicious propensities of the Sam- 
boe, and the capricious disposition of the Indian, 
by which his life was embittered, and his ultimate 
destruction caused. * Columbus and the compa- 
nions of his fourth voyage were the first Europe- 
ans who visited the Cape. 

The soil in the neighbourhood is extremely bad ; 
and, with the exception of a few spots on which 
there are small patches of cassava, is incapable of 
producing any thing better than a coarse rank grass, 
fit however for pasturage. The inhabitants of tlie 
Cape, and the King himself, as I have formerly 
stated, ai*e consequently obliged to depend on the 
people of the Hill Country, Croatch River, and 
those settled a considerable way up the Great Cape 
River, for plantains, maize, and other provisions. 

Owing to these causes, combined with an entire 
want of game, and a scarcity of good water, tlie 
Cape presents no advantages for an agiicultural 
settlemeijt. But, for a commercial establishment, 

♦ He was, it is said, assassinated in 1824, but I have 
not been able to learn the immediate circumstances which 
led to that catastrophe. Colonel Geo. Woodbine of San 
Andres, at the request of the chiefs, sat as chairman in 
the investigation wdiich took place, and I have heard that 
some of those concerned in the murder were put to death. 
Robert succeeded to him — and I)as, in his, turn given 
way to James, descended from a more ancient branch of 
the family. 



VANKES RIVER. 151 

and for grazing, it holds out many inducements ; — 
it has an excellent harbour or small bay, perfectly 
secure from all winds, although in some parts open 
to the south, which seldom blows : the bay is ca- 
pable of containing a large fleet in three to five 
fathoms water, with good holding ground^ abound- 
ing in fish of various kinds ; and, frequented, at 
certain seasons, by innumerable flocks of teal and 
widgeon. It is at no great distance from the Mos- 
quito Kays, whence can be procured, at all sea- 
sons, inexhaustible supplies of the finest green tur- 
tle ; and, but for this last circumstance, the Cape 
would be, perhaps, entirely deserted, such vessels 
as call there, being induced to do so only by the 
abundant supplies of turtle and tortoise-shell, and 
for the purpose of communicating with the King. 

The Great Cape or Vankes River, is known to 
have its source in the same mountainous country, 
which near to the Pacific gives rise to the Blue- 
fields River, or Rio de Nueva Segovia : its upper 
part is described by the Buccaniers, who, about 
1 20 years ago, forced their way from the Gulf of 
Fonseca, across the mountains, to the Spanish 
town of Nueva Segovia, and from thence, after 
passing a short distance to the river, descended it 
in floats or pippirees to the Atlantic — as being si- 
tuated amongst rocky and precipitous mountains, 
with numerous falls ; that its course is over a chan- 
nel of prodigious rocks ; and that it runs with great 
rapidity until within about sixty leagues of the sea. 
The length of its course is said to be two to three 
hundred miles ; and it passes through some of the 
richest land, and most romantic scenery in Central 
America. Within forty or fifty miles of its mouth 
the land t)ecomes low, poor, and sandy, with oc- 



152 IMPORTANCE OF THE CAPE. 

casional Hdges of pitch-pine, and some patches of 
good mould ; but, although the savannahs are fit 
for pastui'age, and would support numerous herds, 
cattle are exceedingly scarce. 

Cape River enters the ocean some distance to 
the northward of the bay, or harbovu*, and there 
is a shallow, canal-like communication, from the 
uppermost part of the latter, into the river, pass-" 
able by canoes ; and which, might easily be en- 
larged, so as to enable small vessels to avoid the 
dangercus bar of the river itself, on which there 
is sekiom more than four or five feet water. If 
commercial establishments were formed at the 
Cape, vessels might lie in safety at the upper end 
of the harbour all the year round ; and if sufficient 
encouragement were given, the valuable products 
of the interior would be collected, brought down 
the river, and, by the communication alluded to, 
into the bay, and shipped at all seasons of the year. 

It will be perceived, by what I have stated, 
that the country governed by Clementi, and part . 
of that under Robinson, is almost exclusively pos- 
sessed by different tribes of unmixed Indians, who 
are in possession of the richest land, and whose 
niannei*s, and customs, and language, are, for the 
niv.dt part, essentially different from those of the 
Mosquito men, who are greatly dependent upon 
them for game and othei' provisions. 

These Indians are in general of a mild and 
peaceable disposition ; in which respect, they es- 
sentially differ from their Mosquito rulers, who 
seem to have derived, from their negro ancestor, 
a certain degree of enterprise, which constantly 
incites them to restless activity, rather than to the 
enjoyment of the quiet and peaceable habits of 



ORIGIN OF THE SAMBOES. 153 

the genuine Indian : — hence they are rather fishers, 
than cultivators of the soil ; and, although they 
have, after many struggles, attained the ascend- 
ancy, they are by no means so estimable in a 
moral point of view, being treacherous, supersti- 
tious, and much more inclined to every species of 
debauchery, than the real Indian, who, in gene- 
ral, adheres strictly to the truth ; while, with 
very few exceptions, the Samboe will not hesitate to 
violate every honest principle to accomplish thepai- 
ticular object which he may have in view. They aie, 
however, hospitable, and have hitherto, on every 
emergency, cordially agreed with their neighbours 
in hatred to the Spaniards, and joined in defence 
of their liberties, whenever they considere<l them- 
selves in danger. Their negro ancestors are said, 
by Mr Edwards * and others, to have been Afri- 
cans from the Samba country, some hundreds of 
whom were wrecked on this coast in a Dutch ves- 
sel, and that having, by this means, recovered their 
liberty, they travelled northwards, to wai'd Cape Gra- 
cias a Dios ; and, after seveiul rencontres with the 
natives, came to a friendly understanding with them, 
— had wives and ground allotted; and have at 
length, by intermarriages, become in some mea- 
sure an Indian people, who, were they under pru- 
dent and active chiefs, are, by their nature and 
disposition, well calculated to maintain their as- 
cendancy. But, it is not improbable that their 
vicious propensities, encouraged by the imprudent 
conduct, and imbecility of their head men, may 
shortly rouse the vengeance of the genuine In- 

* History of the West Indies, 5ih Edition, Appendix. 
As tliey become more mixed with the natives, their ap- 
pearance and character is every day less distinctly marked. 



loi BLACK RlVEil P0YAI3. 

dians, who are by far the most i^iimeroUv^, and have 
only been kept in a kind of noniuial subjection by 
their love of peace, fear of their common enemy 
the Spaniard ; and, by the divisions which the 
Mosquito-men liave artfully created, and talve care 
to keep up amongst them. There is yet a third class, 
whose vengeance may be equally fatal to them — 
namely, the Kharibees ; ^ who are darker in com- 
plexion, and superior in industry, to both the for- 
mer classes ; and, if they continue to increase with 
the same rapidity as at present, may, ultimately, 
obtain the entire ascendancy, at least on the coun- 
try north of the Cape. 

During my sojourn with the King, I accompa- 
nied him in several excursions along the coast, 
and into the interior ; in particular, to Black Ri- 
ver in the Poyais country, since ceded to General 
MacGregor. During that journe>^, I had an op- 
portunity of seeing the principal settlements along 
the coast to the northward of Cape Gracias a 
Dios ; and, in order to preserve the form of nar- 
rative which I have adopted, shall confine my pre- 
sent observations, to that journey, reserving an ac- 
count of the Kharibees north of Black River, un- 
til after my return from Nicaragua and the City 
of Leon, when I finally visited them. 

Some Englishmen, and an American, acquaint- 
ed with the value of the land about Black River, 
and with the former state of the plantations there, 
had arrived -from Barbadoes, with the determina- 
tion of forming a settlement at that place, and the 
King was now desirous of visiting, and giving them 

* I write the v/ord not according to the European 
mode, but as it is unriversally pronounced on the coast. 



KUKARI. lo5 

encoiM-agement. We left the Cape in a large boat, 
with about a dozen people. In nmning along the 
coast we passed False Cape, situated about twenty- 
five miles distant from Great Cape River. We 
afterwards passed the River Croatch, a short dis-? 
tance from False Cape : it is of considerable size, 
with from nine to ten feet water over the bar — 
the land, on its banks, is fertile, although not much 
elevated, producing great quantities of plantains, 
and other provisions, with which its inhabitants, 
who are Samboes, principally supply those at the 
Cape. 

We next visited Kukari, situated in a fertile 
savannah, ha\dng opposite to it a haulover from 
Caratasca Lagoon to the sea ; and, at this haulover 
we landed, and proceeded to the house of its head- 
man, known by the name of the carpenter, a per- 
son possessed of a strong natural genius, and the 
only native mechanic on the coast ; he is expert 
at repairing old muskets, making new stocks for 
them, mending gun-locks, and such other matters 
as require some display of ingenuity. This man 
has, from his infancy, been subject to a very singu- 
lar disease hereditary in his family, called by the 
natives bulpis, supposed to be of a scrofulous na- 
ture, or similar to that which causes the extraor- 
dinary appearance of the Albinos: he was com- 
pletely spotted brown and white, all over the 
body ; without, however, any particular roughness 
of the skin. It did not, however, so far as I could 
learn, affect the eyesight, or injure his general 
health. 

From Kukari, we proceeded across the haul- 
over, into a small stream, leading to Caratasca 
Lagoon. The entrance to this Lagoon (the Bahia 



156 FISH AND GAME. 

cle Cartago of th^ Spaniards), in sailing down the^' 
coast, may be easily found ; for, although tlie land 
on each side is remarkably low, the entrance to it 
is wide, and there are few conspicuous cocoa-nuil 
trees, at Croata, near to it ; being the only tree* 
of that description on the shore to the eastward of 
Patook River. It is of very considerable extent, 
varying in breadth ; and having, in some places, 
the appearance of several lagoons running inta 
each other, in various directions, for the most part, 
parallel to the coast, but no where exceeeding 
twelve miles in breadth. One of these extends to 
within a very short distance of the River Patook, 
and communicates with it by a small inlet. It a- 
bounds in various sorts of fish of the finest de- 
scription, particularly mullet, calapaner, snoak, 
cavallee, and also manatee ; and, it is the constant 
resort of immense quantities of ducks, widgeon, 
teal, and various aquatic birds. The Samboes 
liave several settlements on its western borders ; 
and parties of quiet and peaceable unmixed In- 
dians, reside in the interior, or, on the banks 
of the rivers which empty themselves into it. The 
land in the vicinity consists almost entirely of ex- 
tensive and beautiful savannahs, covered with the 
finest pasturage, and abounding in deer and other 
game. Black cattle were formerly numerous, but 
the Mosquito men have not been provident enough 
lo keep up the breed, selling all they could lay hold 
of, to the traders who frequently visit the Lagoon, 
for the purpose of carrying them oiF. There are 
few pine trees at Croata, but on the opposite, or 
land side, there are ridges containing timber as 
large as any on the coast : behind these ridges, to 
the westward, the savannahs are bounded by gently 



TIMBER. I5Y 

rising hills, whose summits are covered by the 
most luxuriant vegetation ; and on the banks of the 
streams in the interior, there is excellent mahogany, 
and cedar of the finest quality and largest size. 
Pimento and various other valuable plants are also 
indigenous. Crota or Grata, the principal settle- 
ment, is on the sea-coast, at about three miles 
distant from the entrance to the Lagoon. We 
were received by Morton and his son Washing- 
ton, with the greatest cordiality ; the former had 
recently succeeded to the authority and title of 
the late Captain Potts, well known at tlie Bay of 
Honduras as the chief of this settlement. Here 
we remained two days, and were hospitably enter- 
tained, the King and his people being, from the 
following circumstance, kept in a constant state of 
excitement. A pipe of white wine had been dis- 
covered on the beach, and rolled to Morton's resi- 
dence ; he and his neighbours opened the cask, 
and continued drinking for several days, unremit- 
tingly, until it was finished. The men were, how- 
ever, surprised to find that the women continued 
to be tipsy ; they had also found a cask and con- 
cealed it in the bushes, for their own private use. 
This was soon discovered, and Morton, in re- 
buking them, said, that ^ for woman to get drunk 
was not English lady fashion. * This cask was 
also brought to the settlement, and the men re- 
commenced drinking until all were completely 
satiated. The remainder, about half a pipe, was 
presented to us ; and our party, after diinking as 
much as they could, canied off part of it as a sea 
stock. 

Continuing our voyage^ we kept inside the La- 

N 5 " 



158 mo BARBA. 

goon until we arrived at Tabacounta, a small 
stream * running from a branch of the Lagoon in- 
to the ocean, about five miles from Patook. This 
stream has only three or four feet water at its en- 
trance ; and, in the best weather, it can only b^ 
entered by small canoes. Vv^e arrived at Patook 
River the same evening; a strong current was 
setting out of it ; the bar, on which there is gene- 
rally eight or ten feet of water, shifts in the rainy 
season, or during heavy gales, and occasionally 
leaves a sufficient depth for vessels of considerable 
burden. The tides, which seldom or never rise 
exceeding a few feet, ebb and flow into it for some 
miles ; it is of considei*able magnitude, being aug- 
mented by several tributary streams, the chief of 
which is the JRio Barba of the Spaniards ; it haSi 
an inferior mouth, beside that already mentioned; 
falling into the Brewers Lagoon ; it rises in a ridg( 
of mountains, which separate it from the Great 
Cape River, and its course is estimated to be up 
wards of one hundred and fifty miles. Some dan- 
gerous shoals lay off the principal entrance ; am 
from Patook Point, which is on the eastern side, 
a bank extends nearly two miles, on which then 
is very little water. The land in the interior is ver 
fertile, and provisions are plentiful at this settlement 
which is composed principally of negroes former 
ly belonging to Mr Hewlet, a merchant some timi 
ago settled at Black River. These negroes ani 
then- descendants have established themselves hen 
in the same manner as those at Bluefields, ani 
Pearl Kay Lagoon. They have some black cattle, 
horsesj pigs, poultry, &c.; part of these they ar 

* In some charts laid down as Little Patook River, 



JACK. 159 

always ready to sell at a very law price. They 
also, among other things, cultivate tobacco and 
nee, which gi'ow uncommonly well, and are chief? 
ly bartered with their neighbours the Kharibees, 
who sell them at the Bay of Honduras. 

Only three families of Mosquito-men reside at 
this settlement, wliich is on the right bank of the 
river, about half a mile from the sea. The head- 
man of the place is Jack, an old negro, who was 
a great favourite of the late Mosquito King, and 
intrusted by the present George Frederick with 
the keeping of the Crown and other regalia, which 
he carefully conceals ; the late King had secreted 
a considerable sum of money in a place known on- 
ly to this man, through whose honesty it was 
made known and recovered by the present King. 
Jack informed me, that he had frequently ascend- 
jed the river as far as the back settlements of the 
Spaniards, with whom he occasionally bartered a 
few trifling articles brought to him by the Khari- 
bees ; that at one part of its course it has forced 
its way through a ridge of small hills, one of which 
was excavated by the stream, and completely arch- 
ed, so that his dorie passed underneath, as if 
through a cavern, for a distance of nearly five hun- 
dred yards. It is frequented by the largest alliga- 
tors I have ever seen, but they seldom do mis- 
chief. Its banks are extremely fertile, and pro- 
duce the banana and plantain in great perfection— r 
a sure criterion of the excellence of the soil. Two 
of the Kharibees came to visit the King, and du- 
ring our stay provided us with Charib bread, the 
method of preparing which I shall, hereafter, have 
occasion to describe. 

The appearance of the atmosphere indicating a 



160 HORSES. 

Storm, the King determined to proceed by land, 
leaving the greater part of the people behind to 
wait his return. 

The natives of this settlement possess a consi- 
derable number of horses, tlie breed of which had 
been obtained from Caratasca ; but, being little 
used, and there being no sale, they have multi- 
plied so greatly, that in the neighbouring savan- 
nahs hundreds are to be found, in a state of na- 
ture ; although, so fai* as I could judge, they are 
docile, and could be easily broke, and trained to 
the saddle, or other purposes. Two of them be- 
ing furnished to us, we on the third day from our 
anival set off for Brewers Lagoon. Our route lay 
along the beach ; and, occasionally, through th^ 
savannahs, which are parallel to it. About four 
miles below the settlement of Patook, is the fii*st 
village of the Kharibees, who have spread them- 
selves from Truxillo along the shore as far as this 
place, and are great favourites with the present 
King. We stopped occasionally to converse with 
the old men, who always cordially welcomed the 
King, and appealed anxious to entertain us with 
the best fare they had. The men wore shirts and 
trowsei-s ; the women were almost completely na- 
ked, having merely two small square pieces of 
red calico not laiger than a common pocket hand- 
kerchief : — one of these was suspended before, the 
other behind, and secured to the shape with small 
strings of silk grass ; their manners, were, how- 
ever, modest and diffident ; and the girls, when- 
ever they observed us, ran to conceal themselves, 
where they thought they could look at us, without 
being seen* 
We remained in the evening at the Jast Khaii- 



PLANTAIN RIVER. 161 

bee house in this quarter, close to a haul -over into 
Brewers Lagoon. Here we left our horses, and 
embarked in a canoe, in which we reached the 
entrance of the Lagoon, about ten miles distant ; 
the entrance is tolerably wide, but will not admit 
vessels of more than nine feet water. Three or 
four miles from the entrance is a small island, of 
moderate height, about two miles in circumference, 
fertile, and formerly fortified by the English, who 
used to raise live stock and provisions upon it. It 
is now overrun with trees, mangrove, and mohoe 
bushes ; and some of the guns left by the British 
still remain, where they were originally placed :— 
it could again be fortified at veiy little expense, 
and would form an excellent station either for 
commerce, or for European settlers and planta- 
tions. The Lagoon abounds in banks of very fine 
oysters, with fish and fowl in abundance. The 
country to the westward is beautifully diversified 
by gently rising hills, valleys, and savannahs ; and 
the soil, generally speaking, is excellent. 

About two miles from the mouth of the Lagoon 
is Plantain River ; a small stream, with a danger- 
ous bar, passable only by canoes. On the banks 
of this river is the residence of " General " Robinson, 
one of the three chiefs already mentioned. The 
General being absent at the Bay of Honduras dis- 
posing of sarsaparilla, and other commodities, pro- 
cured, principally, from the Poyer Indians, part of 
whom are settled on the upper part of this river* 
We did not wait for his return, but crossed Plan- 
tain River, and pursued our way, along the beach, 
for about half a mile ; — we then entered a savan- 
nah, from the ridge of which we had a beautiful 
prospect of the surrounding country, and of the 
N 2 ■ ' ' 



162 BRITISH FORT. 

Sugar-loaf Mountain, Richmond Hill, and other 
hii»h grounds in the vicinity of Black River. 
Reaching Black River Lagoon, which is ahout 
f(>urteen or sixteen miles long, and about half as 
broad, we proceeded in canoes towards its en- 
trance. It contains several small islands, some of 
which w^ere occupied for raising provisions, and- 
cattle, when the British held possession of Black 
River ; on its borders are extensive savannahs, and 
pine ridges, from whence the former settlers used 
to draw considerable quantities of tar, pitch, and 
turpentine : The ruins of the old works are still 
visible ; and, from their present appearance, must 
have been very extensive. We observed im- 
mense quantities of pigeons, teal, muscovy ducks, 
and other birds, which, in the morning, kept fly- 
ing about in flocks of many hundreds ; — at the 
extremity of the Lagoon, we entered a natural 
canal of moderate width, about three miles id 
length, and the water of considerable depth, coni 
necting the Lagoon with Black River. 

Having crossed the course of the main stream of 
the river, we passed the point on which the British 
had formerly a small fort, created for the protection 
of the settlement; the situation appeared very propef 
for tlie piu'pose. The fort had been surrounded 
by a ditch, and could still, at a trifling expensej>! 
be made tenable. We found the new settlements 
on the banks of a branch of the river, about threes 
miles from its entrance. The situation seemed tq 
be low and ill chosen, a few houses had been pul 
up, on the site of part of the former town, by th^^ 
new settlers, — who were at this time Colone^ 
Gordon of the independent service, Captain Mur 
lay aud his wife^ Captaiu Hosmore and his soj 



ne| 



COLONEL GORDON* 163 

with three or four other white people. Colonel 
Gordon and his party had been settled some time 
previous to the arrival of the others ; they had 
cleared a considerable quantity of land, and had 
already raised one crop, of about five hundred 
bushels of Indian corn, with which Gordon had 
gone to Truxillo ; having formed a contract with 
the commandant of that place to take all that he 
could raise. The quality appeared equal, if not 
superior, to any raised in the Southern States of 
the Union. Mr Warren, an American, had been 
left in charge of the Colonel's plantation; good 
crops, and a ready demand for their produce, 
seemed to be anticipated by all parties. Young 
Hosmore, and another Englishman, had been up 
the river, on a visit to the Poyer Indians, whose 
first regular settlements are about forty miles from 
its entrance, and are extended, as high as the Spa- 
nish Embarcadero, about fifty miles farther up. 
When there, they, by way of ascertaining how far 
the extensive trade formerly carried on could be 
revived, despatched an Indian to the Spanish town 
of Manto, or Olancho el Viejo ; he was well re- 
ceived, and brought back letters from several 
padres^ inviting young Hosmore to proceed to 
Manto, and sending mules to bring him, and the 
few goods he had, to that place. He immediate- 
ly paid them a visit, was kindly received, and 
made proposals for a supply of dry goods, for 
which they offered specie, cattle, sarsaparilla, &c. 
They also tendered him, in the mean time, mules 
and cattle to assist in the formation of the settle- 
ment ; declaring that the withdrawing of the Bri- 
tish from Black lliver had so injured their trade 
and former prosperity, that they would, wiUiugly, 



164 ©OLD MINES. 

use every exertion to open a communication with 
any new settlers. Having no means of conveying 
the mules, &c. down the river, Hosmore was ob- 
liged to decline the offer. He made cautious in- 
quiries regarding the mines in this part of the 
country, and procured some specimens of silver, 
and gold ore, the former of which appeared equal 
to the Plata de Mina, that I had seen in the Paci- 
fic : The situation of several mines was known to 
some of the former settlers, and a regular survey 
was once attempted by a Colonel Despard, but, 
being at an improper season of the year, it failed. 
Hosmore told me he had stopped on his way 
down the river to examine two mineral springs, 
one hot, the other cold, close to each other, near 
the junction of two of its branches : they are situ- 
ated at the base of an extensive ridge of moun- 
tains, extending through the country, in a westerly 
direction ; and, without doubt, connecting those 
which form the bamer between the Spaniards of 
Nicaragua, and the various unconquered Indians 
to the northward and eastward. The highest 
part of these ridges appears by the course of the 
rivers to be about the upper part of the Poyer 
country ; and, as the eastern side, in possession of 
the Spaniards, is known to be full of gold and sil- 
ver ores, there can be no doubt that the Indian 
side is equally rich, in these minerals. In passing, 
up and down the river, he had landed at the ruins 
of some of the former English plantations, where 
he found sugar-cane, plantains, bananas, pine- 
apples, coffee bushes, &c. vegetating in a state of ; 
wild luxuriance. Mr Hosmore's father had trans- 
planted, from thence, several hundred coffee 
plants ; but, owing to their removal from a rich to 



OLD SETTLER. 165 

a poor soil, I doubt the favourable result of his 
experiment. Peas, beans, cabbage, and other 
culinary vegetables of England, were however in 
a state of great forwardness ; and the new settlers 
found no difficulty in procuring provisions, one 
drauglit of the seive being sufficient to supply the 
settlement with fish for several days ; and they 
could always find plenty of game on the river, 
and in the woods. These, and trading conveni- 
ences, induced them to remain at this place, at 
present, in preference to ascending higher up, to 3 
richer soil. We were shown the remains of the 
former church, hospital, and ruins of several 
houses, all built of brick made in the country — se- 
veral sawpits, and other indications of the industry 
of the former settlers were also visible. 

A very strong instance of local attachment in 
one of the old settlers was related to us. Wlien 
the present people aiiived, they found, here, a 
very old man of the name of Austin, who had 
been a resident during its prosperity ; he was 
nearly ninety years of age, and, after a variety of 
adventures, he had recently found his way back 
to the old place, that he might spend his last days 
there, and be buried by the side of his former as- 
sociates. By his directions the remains of the 
burial-ground had been searched for the grave- 
stone of one of his oldest companions ; he cleared 
away the weeds and brushwood, and daily visited 
the spot until his death, which took place some 
weeks after the arrival of our informants ; who, 
faithful to their promise, buried him by the side 
of his ancient comrade. 

Having remained a few days, the King found it 
jjiecessary to retuin towaids the Cape; to keep 



166 RETURN TO 

the festiv^al of Christmas with some of his princi- 
pal chiefs, according to custom. He considered it 
prudent to visit General Robinson, who had re- 
turned home, and had seveml of the chiefs staying 
with him. Leaving Black River in the morning, 
we arrived at the General's towards evening. His 
house and establishment seemed to be compara- 
tively comfortable for this part of the world ; he, 
had several Indian, and negi'o slaves ; and kept a 
small quantity of cattle, which were grazing, in 
a savannah, omthe right bank of the river, opposite 
to his settlement. We found him receiving sarsa- 
parilla from the Poyer and other Indians, for 
which he gave them any price he thought proper ; 
that commodity is abundant in all the country be- 
tween Cape Cameron and Cape Honduras ; but^ 
the inhabitants only collect sufficient to pay for 
such articles as they absolutely want, beyond 
which they do not look farther. 

Robinson's brothers, Barras, Roncell, and some 
of the other chiefs received the King with some 
degree of coolness, encouraged by Robinson, who 
affected to consider himself an independent chieL 
We returned to Crota by the same route as for- 
merly ; and, in passing through the country, tha 
Kharibees, in various places, and negroes at Pa- 
took, complained much of the violent and oppres- 
sive conduct of Barras, of which I shall hereafter 
have occasion to speak, and besought the King's, 
interference. At Crata we were received and 
treated with the same hospitality as before; a 
bullock was killed for our provision, and when we 
embarked to cross Caratasca Lagoon, another,- 
with the remainder of the wine, was given to us, 
as a Christmas present. Returning by False Cape^ 



CAPE GRACIAS A DIOS. 167 

we came to a settlement, on the edge of a savan- 
nah, about three miles up Great Cape River, the 
chief of which, named Hamlar, provided us with 
a dorie, in which we descended the river, and en- 
tered the upper part of the harbour through the 
communication formerly mentioned, after an ab- 
sence of about fourteen days. 



CHAPTER VIIL 



HARBOUR OF SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA — AT- 
TACK BY AN INDEPENDENT CRUISER TAKEN 

AS A SPY TRIAL AND ESCAPE CONDUCT OF 

THE INDIANS ORDERED TO SAN CARLOS BON- 
GOS THE FORT OR BATTERY AND ENTRANCES 

OF THE RIVER MANATIS SERAPIQUI COM- 
MODORE Mitchell's expedition — islands — 

RAPIDS, — alligators ARRIVAL AT THE 

CASTLE OF SAN JUAN — ITS" PRESENT STATE 

GREAT RAPID— FORMER INCORRECT STATEMENTS 
REGARDING THE RIVER. 



Shortly after the journey last narrated, I visited 
Balize ; and succeeded in forming aiTangements 
there, under the sanction of the Mosquito King, 
for securing a share of the Indian trade. During 
the interval of canying these an*angements into 
eiFect, I continued to make short voyages along 
the shore, visiting, and residing occasionally, at 
many of the Indian, and Mosquito settlements. 

One of these voyages, had a termmation which 
unexpectedly afforded me an opportunity of visit- 
ing the Interior of Central America, as far as the 
city of Leon, within a few miles of the South Sea. 

In the year 1803, I kft Cape Gracias a Dios, 



HAnuOUR. 169 

in a small smack of about fifteen tons burden, witli 
goods to tbe value of about five hundred pound?, 
intending* to run along tlie whole coast as far as 
the river Coclee ; and to stop at every river, creek, 
and settlement, where tortoise-shell, and other 
produce, could be procured. The King furnished 
me with three of his people to accompany me as 
far as Prinzapulko, where I knew I could engage 
proper hands for the remainder of the voyage. I 
obtained a considerable quantity of tortoise-shell 
at DuckwaiTa* and Sandy Bay. I proceeded from 
thence to Brancmans, where I had an interview 
with Governor Clementi, and agi*eed to purchase 
all the shell and other articles, that his people 
might next season collect. On my amval at 
Prinzapulko, I entered into agreement with an 
intelligent Indian, named Brown, mentioned in a 
former part of this narrative, who, having been 
brought up in a Creole family at Pearl Kay Lagoon, 
spoke good English, and three others, to proceed 
with me ; agreeing to pay them in goods, at the 
rate of five dollars per man, each month, for their 
services. I could have hired White people, or 
Creoles, at Pearl Kay Lagoon, on the same terms, 
but I have always found the Indians more capable 
of bearing fatigue, easily satisfied, docile and ob- 
liging, — consequently better adapted for my pur- 
pose. 

With these men I left Prinzapulko early in 
June ; and, after trading at Great River, Pearl 

• Duckwarra is laid down in the charts as Duccana. 
Ehicanna or DuckwaiTa Lagoon is also represented as 
joining or running into Sandy Bay, whereas it is separat- 
ed by a 9a>annah at least six miles across. 
O 



170 HARBOUR OF ST JUAN 

Kay Lagoon, Bluefields, and the Rama settlement 
at Point de Gorda, I airived at the harbour of 
San Juan de Nicaragua. It was scarcely day- 
light when I entered the port, and, before discover- 
ing two large schooners, I was under their guns. 
The appeaiance of these vessels alarmed my In- 
dians, but it was too late to recede ; and I had 
scarcely come to anchor, when I was boarded by 
a large boat full of people ; the oiiicer, in com- 
mand, ordered my vessel alongside the schooner, 
to be searched, and assumed as much importance 
as if he had made a most valuable capture. I was 
aware that the Spaniards avail themselves of every 
portunity to purchase a few dry goods, from the 
Indian traders as they pass along the coast ; and, 
that the commanders of Port San Juan, and the 
Castle of San Carlos, not only wink at this con- 
traband trade, but, indirectly, buy goods on their 
own accounts to a considerable extent, payment 
being made in gold dust, doubloons, and dollars. 
I was nevertheless afraid for the result ; having 
a quantity of guiipoAvder, and cutlass blades, for 
the Indian trade, knowing these articles to be 
strictly contraband. 

The Commandant of the fort, or battery, having 
satisfied himself respecting the object of my voyage, 
told me, contrary to my expectation, that I was at 
liberty to depart whenever I thought proper. 
' The schooners were the Flor-deUmer^ mount- 
ing ten, and the Estrella eight guns — six pounders ; 
with each a long eighteen pounder on a pivot : 
they had originally been American privateers, the 
smallest of them exceeding two hundred and fifty 
tons, with a crew of fifty men each. The captaiij 
of the first mentioned yessel, desirous of inforraa- 



DE NICARAGUA* 171 

tion, insisted on my breakfasting with him ; and, 
during the time I enjoyed his hospitality, the man 
who was kept on the look-out, from tlie mast- 
head, descried a sail to windward, coming down 
in the same direction from whence I had arrived. 
In a moment all washuiTy, bustle, and confusion ; 
and, I was annoyed by innumerable questions ^ 
about the vessel in sight : it was in vain that I as- 
sured them I knew nothing about them ; and sug- 
gested, that she might be one of the Jamaica tra- 
ders. My assertions were received with distrust, 
or entirely disbelieved : — a few minutes however 
put them out of suspense ; it became evident that 
she was a brig of war ; and, immediately, prepara- 
tions were made for action. 

As most of my little property was now at stake, 
I went to the Commandant of the fort, and re- 
quested that my small vessel should be taken over 
the bar, into the river for safety ; offering in re-» 
turn, the services of the Indians, to assist in work^ 
ing the guns at the fort ; and tendering my own to 
the Captain of the Estrella. The Commandant 
coolly observed that his officers strongly suspected 
I was a spy for the vessel now in sight ; but that 
if I assisted in repulsing her, I would, in somd 
measure, invalid that impression, leaving it how- 
ever entirely at my own option to act as I judged 
proper. 

By this time the schooners, having springs on 
their cables, wei-e moored with their broadsides 
completely commanding the entrance to the har- 
bour. Their commanders ordered the red flag to 
be hoisted, which was immediately answered by a 
similar defiance from the vessel in the offing : she 
took in top-gallant sails, reefed topsails, and in 



172 ATTACK BY AN 

rounding the point within gunshot, hoisted Buenos 
Ayrean colours, and I then knew her to be the 
Patiiot vessel Centinela, commanded by Bradford, 
a brave and intrepid officer, formerly attached to 
the Mexican squadron under Sir Gregor MacGre- 
gor, and General Aurey. The Spaniards imme- 
diately began to fire from the battery and both 
schooners, whilst the brig advanced silently and 
steadily, towards them, with die evident intention 
of boarding ; and, had she been able to do so, I 
fully anticipated their capture, as it was with 
much difficulty that the officers of the schooners, 
could keep the men to their gims. Fortunately 
for the Spaniards the breeze died away, almost to 
a calm, at the moment when the Patriot vessel 
came in contact with the current setting out of 
the river ; consequently she was under the neces- 
sity of letting go an anchor, within musket-shot of 
the fort and schooners. At this disadvantage, 
she proceeded to get a spring on her cable ; and, 
before firing a gun, brought her broadside to bear 
(on the schooners, which were moored so close to- 
gether that the jib-boom end of one was nearly 
over the taf-rail of the other. In this position, 
the .Centinela continued the action nearly four 
hours, against tw^enty-eight pieces of cannon, the 
random and ill-directed fiie of the Spaniards alone 
preventing them from sinking her at her anchors. 

Being by this time much damaged in her hull 
^nd rigging, she cut her cable ; and, assisted by 
the current from the river, and a light breeze 
which sprung up, drifted out of the reach of grape 
fmd cannister shot, evidently prepared to repdi 
any attack, if her enemies had ilaied to become 
the assailants. The Spanish officers, indeed, cal* 



INDEPENDENT CRUISER, 173 

led out to their men " aborda ! aborda ! " but not 
one of these gentlemen offered to set the example, 
by jumping into the boats ; — she reached the 
Corn Islands next day in a sinking state ; but, few 
men were killed on either side. 

While still employed at the gun which I assist- 
ed in working, the officers of the Flor-del-Mer 
came on board to congi'atulate us, on what they 
should have rather considered an escape than a 
victory. One of them came, up to me, and look- 
ing steadfastly in my face, swore he knew me, 
and called to the officers on the quarter-deck to 
desire I might be secured, as I was a prize-master 
belonging to the Centinela, who had lately taken 
his vessel, and plundered his person, under the 
worst circumstances of aggravation and insult. 
Such a charge as this, after I had, during so many 
hours, risked my life in defence of their vessels, 
completely confounded me ; and this confusion 
was, by all present, taken as evidence of my guilt. 
The rumour of a spy from the insurgent brig be- 
ing discovered on board the Estrella, soon spread, 
and when I was carried on board the other schoo- 
ner, to be put in irons, her crew were desired to 
see if any of them could recognise me. A hard 
featured villanous looking fellow stept forward, 
and accused me of being the sail -maker of the 
brig in question ; that he would swear that when 
he was boarded and captured, oil his last voyage 
from the Havannah to Truxillo, I had, in my in- 
satiable thirst for plunder, cut his trowsers, in 
which he had a number of doubloons, with my 
boarding-knife, and nearly murdered him. 

.This was considered sufficient evidence ; it was 
o 2 



Hi TRIED AS 

in vain I protested my innocence ; I wa^ innne-^ 
diately ironed, and sent under a guard to the foit* 
My Indians were exceedingly surprised at seeing 
me brought ashore in this manner ; and, before I 
could fully explain the cause to Brown, I Wds 
hunied to the guardhouse. 

Next monung, about nine o'clock, I was con- 
ducted before the commandant and a number of 
officers assembled ; and, as they appeared to be 
fully satisfied that I was, or had been, an officer 
of the Centinela, a paper was presented for signa- 
ture, which was said to contain the charges made 
out against me ; and the depositions of the two 
Spaniards now made upon oath. 

I resolutely refused, however, to sign this pa- 
per, on the ground of my imperfect knowledge of 
the Spanish language, and having no interpreter 
on whom I could depend : that I was perfectly 
innocent, and might, by signing it, crmiinate 
myself. They remanded me back to prison ; and 
the commandant of the fort, Don Francisco Sal- 
lablanco, sent me some refreshment. In the even- 
ing I overheard one of my guards assuring his 
comi-ade that the officers were perfectly satisfied of 
my being a spy ; and had, therefore, come to the re- 
solution of executing me without delay. Eaily in 
the morning I was again brought before these 
judges, and desired to sign the paper, but still 
refused. After a short deliberation, a sergeant 
and six men, conducted me to the back of the 
fort; two others were employed to support me 
as I could not walk without assistance, both 
legs being in irons ; another person cai'ried an 
empty cask; and a fourth a chair for the com- 



A SPY. 175 

mandant. Arrived at the back of the fort the 
cask was put down, and I was ordered to sit upon 
it, the commandant placed his chair close beside 
me, and informed me by means of an interpreter, 
that I had been regularly tried, and that it was 
the opinion of all present, that sufficient evidence 
had been adduced to prove that I was an officer 
belonging to the Patriot service, and that, having 
entered the hai'bour as a spy, they were justified in 
putting me to death in a summary manner ; — he 
therefore exhorted me to address myself to Al- 
mighty God, as in the course of another half-hour 
I should cease to live. He then oixlered the sol- 
diers to load their pieces and draw up in line about 
twelve yards distant. When the sergeant came 
forward to blindfold me with a handkerchief, I re- 
fused to submit to it ; and on turning my head 
from side to side to prevent it, and as a sign of 
my imiocence — my eye fell upon my poor Indians, 
who had been brought out to witness the execu- 
tion. The agitation of my mind at this crisis can- 
not be expressed : these men being much attached 
to me, raised that loud and melancholy howl 
or lamentation, which I had, often, heard them 
ehant at the death of one of their own tribe. 
Despair fell so heavily on my mind that all hope 
utterly left me ; but on acquiring new courage, I 
instantly turned to the commandant, who, by this 
time, had risen from his chair, and observed, in 
broken Spanish, and English, that, if he was de- 
termined to murder an innocent man, a subject of 
Great Britain, I could die without being blind- 
folded. Every tongue was now hushed ; save 
those of my poor Indians, expecting the fatal 
word or sigiml, which was to expedite me from 



176 ORDERED TO 

a world of strife. I was in the act of recom- 
mending- my soul to God, when suddenly I heard 
the splashing of oars ; and, a large hoat, liitherto 
concealed by the bushes and bamboos, appeared 
close to us ! 

A feeling now darted into my mind, that I 
should escape the pending catastrophe; and, in 
consequence, I now and aftervvards acted with 
more boldness than was, perhaps, warranted by my- 
critical situation. The commandant suspended the 
execution, and I was conducted to the guard- 
house. 

The boat proved to be a government express, 
down the river from the castle of San Carlosy 
with a reinforcement of men, under the command 
of an officer, who was to supersede the present 
commander. I was shortly ordered before the 
new commandant, to whom I explained my reasons 
for having called at the harbour, the time I had 
been living on the coast, and, the nature of my 
trade with the Indians. I referred him to papers, 
found in my vessel, corroborative of my statement; 
but, unfortunately, he could find no one to read 
them. 

I was afterwards ordered to hold myself in 
readiness to be sent up the river San Juan ; and 
desired to communicate the same order to the In- 
dians, who were now allowed to visit me. Brown 
seemed to have his horrid ideas of the Spaniards 
fully confirmed ; and, at that moment, swore ven- 
geance against them, if chance should ever place 
man, woman, or child, of their country, at his dis- 
posal ; I told him to keep up the spirits of tis 
companions ; that I should never desert them, 



SAJJ CARLOS. 177 

even if I lost all ; and, that I equally relied on 
llieir attaGliment. 

I was again brought before the new command- 
ant, who desired me to sign an inventory of the 
articles found in my vessel : but, I saw, that it 
contained not one eighth part of them ; that my 
trunks, and cases, had been broken open, and plun- 
dered of nearly all their contents ; the soldiers 
bad taken even my apparel and were wearing it 
before my face, but, I was obliged to be satisfied 
with an assurance, that all justice would be done 
to me, at San Carlos. The provisions which I 
bad in my vessel were ordered to be sent ashore 
for the support of myself and Indians. I have 
been the more particular on the pi'eceding occur- 
rences, because they show one of the hair-breadth 
escapes of an eventful life ; and, at the same time, 
explain the cause of my journey into the interior 
of a country, which, the jealousy of the Spanish 
government, had hitherto shut up from the inspec- 
tion of Englishmen. 

In the evening three large craft, by the Spaniards 
called bongos, came from the schooners to the fort, 
loaded with dry goods, and demijohns, or large 
jars of brandy and Dutch gin. Into one of these 
boats, I was put, with two of the Indians ; the o- 
iher two being sent to a sepaiate bongo, all 
ii'oned. 

I had the liberty of laying myself at full length in 
the after part of the boat, the Indians being kept 
feiward, so that no communication could take place 
among us. These boats are from thirty-five, to 
forty feet in length ; the bottom, and sides, to the 
beight of three feet, is composed of a single piece 
of inahogany or cedar, generally the latter, rounded 



I78 BONGOS. 

similar to that of a canoe, without a keel; the 
stern square. Their risings consist of two planks 
from sixteen to eighteen inclies hroad ; and from 
three and a half, to four inches thick ; reaching 
from stem to stern, and strongly secured,- as well 
as the bottom, by very stout timbers of the wild 
calabash, bally, or Santamaria wood ; in other re- 
spects they are fitted up like a ship's launch, their 
oars are stout poles, about twelve feet in length, 
at the end of which is a piece of boaixl, four 
feet long, and eighteen inches wide, tapered oiF 
something in the shape of an oar blade ; — these 
oars are secured to the thowel by straps of raw 
hide. A space of about eight feet in length 
at the afterpart of these bongos is planted, or 
decked, within about a foot or eighteen inches un- 
der the risings ; and over this deck is thrown an 
arched awning of raw hides, much in the shape of 
coverings for waggons in England, completely 
sheltering the passengers from the sun and weather. 
These boats are from six to seven feet wide, draw 
from three to five feet water, and are pulled by 
from sixteen to twenty-two oars. On an average 
they carry about sixteen tons, and are the largest 
craft hitherto used on this river. The Padrone or 
master, and the crew, were natives of Granada de 
Nicaragua^ hardy, stout, raw-boned fellows, de- 
scendants of Indians ; and the boatmen wrought 
during the day, entirely naked. 

The late commandant of the fort, and one of 
the owners of the Flor-del-Mer, were passengers, 
and about three o'clock in the afternoon, we en- 
tered the river, by the channel to the north or 
right hand side. 

The fort, or rather battery, which . I bad after- 



FORT OF SAN JUAy, 179 

wards a better opportunity of examining, has 
twelve pieces of cannon, long iron twenty-four 
pounders, mounted behind a breastwork of turf 
and sand, on a wooden platform of great thicks 
ness ; they completely command the entrance of 
tjie harbour, and both mouths of the river. A few 
houses for the accommodation of the officers and 
soldiers, are built at the back of the battery, which, 
altogether, has accommodation for about one hun- 
dred men : it may be more properly termed a mask- 
ed battery than a fort. The island on which it 
stands, is something less than half a mile in cir- 
cumference, nearly in the centre of the entrances 
to the river — the soil is sandy, and overgrown 
with bamboo, mohoe, and cane shrubs and bushes ; 
the entrance on the south, or larboard side, is 
nearly half a mile wide, but too shallow to admit 
a loaded bongo ; the other, by which w^e proceed- 
-ed, is not so wdde, being little more than two hun- 
dred yards across ; its greatest depth about seven 
feet, and frequently not more than five ; the cur- 
rent in its channel runs stronger than in that which 
is on the other side, and the island itself seems to 
have been formed by the accumulation of sand, 
trees, &c., brought down the river during the 
rainy season. The main body of the river is here 
about half a mile wide, and becomes deeper as we 
ascend frcm the island. 

We pulled close to a low bank, at a place on 
the south side of the river, where some rude huts 
had been constmcted. Here the people landed for 
the purpose of cooking, and I was rather cavalier- 
ly invited to join them; I answered by pointing to 
the irons, which had by this time caused my legs 
,to swell, and become exceedingly painful. Doji 



180 VOYAGE UP THE RIVER." 

Rayinond, the gentleman before alluded to, eeein- 
ed to interest himself in my behalf; and after a few 
minutes conversation with Salablanca, I was al- 
lowed to give my parole, not to attempt an escape, 
or hold any communication with the Indians ; ami 
the Padrone with some ditiiculty filed off my 
shackles. 

I was invited to partake of their evening repast, 
after which we retired to sleep in the bongo, while 
the boatmen slept on land ai'ound a large fire, 
wdiich they took care to keep burning during the 
night. Reflections on the extraor<linaiy occur- 
rences of the last few days, and conjectures regard- 
ing my future destiny, prevented me from enjoying 
much repose, and I was roused, shortly after mid- 
night, by preparations for proceeding. Long be- 
fore the dawn of day all were on board, and the 
Padrone commenced his orisons to the Deity in a 
very loud tone, the crew making responses at in- 
tervals, after which, all joined him in singing a 
liymn to the Virgin. The effect, in the stillness 
and solitude of the river, was exceedingly impres- 
sive. 

Proceeding on our voyage, and accompanied 
by the other two bongos, I succeeded in recruit- 
ing my exhausted spirits by obtaining a little sleep, 
from which I was awoke by Don Raymond to 
breakfast. The boat during our repast, was fas- 
tened to a tree ; and on its being finished, the men 
again resumed their oars. I observed but little 
current in the river all this day, and it was near- 
ly the same width as above the island at its en- 
trance. In the afternoon we passed a schooner of 
about eighty tons, which, after being lightened, 
had been hauled over the bar, into the river for 



SERAPIQUr. 181 

safety, previous to the arrival of the two schooners 
from tlie Havanimh. 

She had come from Porto Bello, and the owner 
liad proceeded to Granada to dispose of tlie cargo, 
and procure another. At sun-set, we landed, and, 
after supper, rested as on the preceding evening. 
At about four o'clock, the usual orison and Jiynm 
being repeated, we proceeded as before. The ri- 
ver maintained the same aspect as yesterday, and 
there was no visible difference in its breadth ; the 
banks were low, and lined with patches of long 
grass, upon which it was evident the manati had 
been feeding, those singular creatm-es, being equally 
numerous here, as in the small creeks, adjoining 
the harbour. 

At breakfast time we came to Scrap iqui, v/here 
a considerable stream branches off to tlie south- 
ward, and joins the Rio Colorado, which as be- 
fore stated, empties itself into the ocean about ten 
miles from the harbour of San Juan. The Pa*- 
drone told me this branch of the river was distant 
thii'ty miles from the battery at the harbour. 

Some few years ago the celebrated Captain Mit- 
chell, who commanded an independent privateer^ 
belonging to Carthagena, during the time that place 
was in the hands of the revolutionists ; and also 
distinguished himself by taking the small island of 
San Andres, and hanging Gonsales its Governor, 
having brought his vessel to an anchor off the bar 
of the Colorado, sent three boats up that river, 
through this branch at Serapiqui, into the river San 
Juan, descended it and sui-prised the battery at 
the harbour before the Spaniards could prepare 
for an enemy. By this bold manoeuvre he captured 



182 



ALLIGATORS. 



two small vessels in the harbour, with the greater 
part of their cargoes, which, with other goods, lay 
in the hattery ready for shipment. 

Most of the Spaniards escaped, but Mitchell 
spiked their guns, and got clear off with his prizes. 
Since this expedition no one has ventured to reside 
at Serapiqui, although it might easily be made de- 
fensible, being situated on a high bank, about 
twenty feet above the river. 

' Three houses were standing, surrounded by large 
plantations of the banana, cassava, and plantain; 
but there were no inhabitants. We remained se- 
veral hours ; and, after noon, proceeded on our 
voyage. A few miles up we found a very mate- 
rial diiFerence in the current ; the river became 
wider, and shallower ; and, for the first time, I 
observed small islands in the middle, varying from 
a quarter to half a mile in length. The three 
bongos kept close together ; and, the padrones fre- 
quently consulted together as to which side of an 
island it would be most advisable to keep to avoid 
the current, invariably following the advice of the 
padrone in our boat, who seemed the most expe- 
rienced of the three. Throughout this day the 
men laboured harder at their oars than during the 
preceding. At night they fastened their vessels 
to a tree, supped and slept as usual, and again re-r 
newed their progress a little after midnight. In 
the course of the ensuing morning we came to a 
very shallow part of the river, where it was with 
much difficulty that the twenty- two men pulling 
our boat, could stem the current, and the bank? 
were so muc'dy, that it was not possible for mein 
to track her up by means of a tow-rope. Gr^aji 
^lumbers of large alligators were basking on the 



SHALLOWS. 183 

mtiddy banks, appearing at a distance like old de- 
cayed logs of wood, or trunks of trees. The noise 
of our boat ascending these rapid-currents, and the 
songs of our mariners, invariably made these mon- 
strous reptiles take to the water. 

On passing this shallow, which can scarcely be 
denominated a rapid, we again got into deep wa- 
ter ; and, stopping at one of the islands to brealv- 
fast, we met with an old Spaniard, and an Indian 
his attendant : tliey had come across the country 
from the city of Cartago, going to Granada on 
some law business. He had come by the Colo- 
rado River, through the Serapiqui branch, into the 
San Juan — now bargained with the master of our 
boat for a passage, and seemed happy that he 
could pursue his journey with comparative ease 
and safety. ^ 

From this man, who spoke a little English, and 
frequently purchased goods from the traders at Ma- 
tina, I learnt that an enterpiising Spanish merchant, 
of my acquaintance, residing occasionally at Ma- 
tina, but principally at Cartago, had incurred the 
suspicions of the Goveiiiment there, was impri- 
soned, and his goods, to the extent of several thou- 
sand dollars, seized, on pretence of being in coni^ 
munication with the Independents — a circumstance 
which rendered me still more anxious relative to 
my ultimate situation. 

In the evening we came to another shallow, 
where the current was nearly as strong as tlmt 
which we passed in the morning ; the bongos were 
kept close to the shore, in the counter current, 
and we got over it by means of hard pulling. 

At night we brought up in the middle of the 
stream, the people being so much fatigued witk 



184 ilAPIDS. 

this day's Laid labour, that they showed no inclia- 
ation to go on shore. Dining the night some raui 
lell, but ail the goods were protected from the wet, 
by being covered with raw hides. Long before 
<iay-break we resumed our voyage ; and> previous 
to breakfast, we came to a shallow rapid, or place 
similar to that we passed yesterday ; several small 
islands, which had the appeaiance of being over- 
flowed duiing the rainy season, lay in the bed of the 
river; and, a circumstance here occm'red, showing 
that our old pacUone's knowledge of the naviga- 
tion was not overrated. One of the bongos hav- 
ing got before ours, kept to the larboard side of an 
island, about half a mile long, by a channel, which 
appeared broader than the one on the other side 
which our and the other bongo entered ; we passed 
this island by mere dint of hard labour at the oar. 
On getting again into deep water, we perceived 
the bongo, which had tried the other channel, a- 
ground in the middle of it, and her people over- 
board endeavouring in vain to shove her on : they 
were at last obliged to force her back, and come 
round by our channel. Our old padrone abused 
the person who had caused the delay, and told us 
that very few persons knew any thing of the pro- 
per course, in ascending the river ; and that not a 
person on the whole Lake of Nicaragua understood 
it so well as himself. This day was one of exces- 
sive labour and fatigue to the people, as they had 
several small runs to overcome, the deep water 
being only at intervals, for a mile, or a mile and 
a half. 

On the sixth day, we recommenced our jour- 
ney as before, and now found the river clearer of 
rapids and islands, its greatest breadth not being 



CASTLE OF SAN JUAN. 185 

more than a quarter of a mile, and the banks ri- 
sing ten to fifteen feet above the level of the water. 
The land appeared composed of a rich black soil, 
bearing trees of an immense size, chiefly the bul- 
let, or bulley sour wood, cedars, and locusts, grow- 
ing close to the water's edge. In the evening we 
landed, lighted fires, and slept at a deserted set- 
tlement, consisting of four houses, concealed from 
view by a plantation of bananas, plantains, &c. 
The old boat-master accommodated me with a 
hammock, a luxury I had not for a long time en- 
joyed. Next morning we started at three o'clock 
every one exerting himself to the utmost, in the 
hope of reaching the old fort of San Juan in the 
evening ; — we were however opposed to a strong 
current, the whole day, the padrone asserting 
that the river was very low at present. The peo- 
ple only ceased from their labour once during the 
day; and although there were latterly none of 
those rapids, or shallows, we had encountered on 
the preceding days, they became so exhausted that 
they gave up all hope of reaching the castle that 
night. We accordingly disembarked, cooked our 
provisions, and slept as before ; certain of being 
there by breakfast time next morning, when we 
again proceeded, and shortly came to a low island, 
nearly a mile in length. Our bongo took the lead 
as usual, through a narrow channel, on the right 
side of the island, where, in some places, there 
was barely sufficient space to use their oars : — the 
other channel I observed to be of much greater 
width, but not so deep. We shortly came in sight 
of the castle, which I judged to be about two 
miles above this last mentioned islanti. We her^ 
P 2 



186 LORD NELSON- 

found the river as wide as in any pait of its course : 
the current was strong, but the water, close in with 
the banks, was deep, and the eddy, in counter 
current, assisted us in getting up to the only com- 
plete rapid we had yet seen. The bongos being 
hauled into a small basin, apparently dug for the 
purpose of landing goods, we proceeded to the 
castle, where I was immediately placed under a 
guard. Here, for the first time, I exchanged a few 
words with my Indians, who were now free from 
irons, but I had barely time to assure them of my 
regard, when I was hurried into a separate place 
of confinement. Breakfast was sent to me from 
the commandant's table ; and Don Raymond, and 
the Spaniard from Cartago, visited and informed 
me I would remain here until an answer was re- 
ceived from San Carlos fixing my future destina- 
tion. By the interest of these gentlemen, I was 
allowed to walk about the place, attended by a 
soldier. I found the crews of the boats engaged 
in carrying the goods on their shoidders to a house 
at a little distance from the landing place, where 
an officer was apparently taking an inventory of 
each article. 

An old building, having somewhat the appear- 
ance of a fortification, situated on an eminence, is 
the only remaining part of the castle of San Juan; 
this dilapidated fortress was, as I afterwards learn- 
ed, the same which had been taken by Lord Nel- 
son when Captain; assisted by a detachment of 
troops from Jamaica, and a large body of Mosquito 
and other Indians, It completely commands the 
rapid in such a manner, that no boat or vessel of 
any kind could pass ; but, having been suffered to 
become ruinous^ a small battery of eight brass field- 



BRYAN EDWARDS. 187 

pieces had been constructed at the foot of the emi- 
nence ; two of these guns pointed down the river, 
two up, and a few across the rapid. The place, 
independent of the castle and battery, only consists 
of lodgings for the soldiers, and a few houses, ap- 
parently occupied by their wives, or followers; 

The rapid is little more than a quarter of a mile 
in breadth, extending quite across the stream ; the 
strongest part of the current is in the middle. The 
descent is gradual, like the eloping banks on the 
shore, which appear not more than five or six hun- 
dred yards in length. Some idea may be formed 
of its force, and of the difficulty of surmounting it, 
by considering that, on tlie second morning after 
our arrival, it required above an hour's- exertion of 
a numerous crew to haul the empty bongos up the 
stream. 

I may here observe, that I had seen Bryan Ed- 
wards' account of the Mosquito Shore, and had 
otherwise heard it asserted that the Rio de San 
Juan ivas navigable through its tvhole course to the 
lake of Nicaragua for vessels of cotuiderahle bur^ 
then, and that a schooner of thirty tons, had ac- 
tually sailed up the lake, and afterwards returned, 
down the river, to Jamaica. Many authors, from 
this single report of Bryan Edwards, have boldly 
asserted, that the lake is navigable for sliips of the 
line, and that the San Juan is also navigable for 
large ships, through its whole course. From what 
I have already stated, the absurdity of the latter 
assertion must be very evident, as also the story 
of the schooner's voyage ; for, admitting that in 
the rainy season, when the river was full, or at its 
greatest height, she might have stolen past the 
station at the river's mouth, and got over the mi- 



188 ERRONEOUS STATEMENT. 

nor rapids, she never could have passed this great 
rapid, or escaped the vigilance of the garrison here ; 
or finally, at the castle of San Carlos, situated on 
an eminence, at the entrance of the lake, com- 
manding a view of at least ten miles of the river, 
and forty or fifty of the Lake of Nicaragua. In 
short, I consider the whole story fabulous, and not 
entitled to the slightest credit ; but more of this 
hereafter. 

At noon I was invited to dine with the oflicers 
of the station, one of whom, in the course of con- 
versation, observed, that although 1 was consider- 
ed " a contrabandisto," yet, if I could prove I was 
not connected with the Patriots, I should have my 
property returned, in consideration of having as- 
sisted in defending the Estrella: but the credu- 
lous smile on the countenance of Salablanca gave 
me to understand that he still considered me what 
I had at first been represented by my accusers. 



CHAPTER IX. 

lEAVE FORT SAN JUAN — FINE TI MBER ON THE 
BANKS — VILLAGE AND FORT OF SAN CARLOS- 
PROCEEDINGS THERE — RELIGIOUS TRACTS — 
DEPART FOR GRANADA — THE LAKE OF NI- 
CARAGUA SAN MIGUEL THE PADRONES ORI« 

SONS — VOLCANIC ISLAND LAND BETWEEN THE 

LAKE AND SOUTH SEA ARRIVAL AT GRANADA 

— EXAMINATION AND IMPRISONMENT — BASE 
INTERPRETER— DEPARTURE FOR THE CITY Ot 
LEON. 

On our first arrival at San Juan, a small canoe 
had been despatched to San Carlos with letters to 
the Commandant, whose ansvv^r arrived on the 
third day, instructing Salablanca to proceed to 
that place with his prisoners. The bongos being 
again loaded, we reembarked ; and, crossing the 
river to a large building opposite the fort, each 
bongo received twenty or thirty poles, about 
twenty-five feet long ; and also two long planks 
which were fixed fore and aft the sides of the boat^ 
to serve as gangways. We now proceeded on our 
voyage \ the river had the same appeaiance as be» 



190 THE CASTLE 

low the rapid, and was of the same breadth, but 
the banks rather lower. In the afternoon, we 
came to a narrower place with higher banks on 
both sides, composed of light yellow earth, and 
strata of white clay ; here the people laid aside 
their oars and used the poles. The current was 
not stronger than in many other parts of the liver, 
but it was shallow, and the bottom more firm 
and equal. By the use of poles the vessels were 
impelled against the stream with double the velo- 
city that could have been communicated by oars. 
The distance pulled could not have been less than 
six miles, and yet our whole progress, after the 
greatest fatigue and exertion, did not, during the 
whole day, exceed twelve miles. Shortly after 
midnight we resumed our voyage by moonlight, 
the poles were again used until we had passed a^ 
narrow island, nearly three quarters of a mile in 
extent ; here a beautiful reach presented itself, 
perfectly straight, four or five miles in length, and 
tlie cuiTent scarcely perceptible : The crews now 
stuck their poles into a muddy bank, v/hich, from" 
the quantity already there, seemed the general de- 
pository of all the staves which had been used 
for years past. Preparations were made, after 
breakfast, to avail themselves of a fine breeze; 
some of the people were sent into the woods for 
masts, which had been secreted there ; and, they 
contrived, in an awkward bungling manner, to 
hoist large square sails upon them. After making 
some progress we descried the castle of San Car- 
los, the Gibraltar of the Lake of Nicaragua. Hav- 
ing passed the reach, we immediately entered an- 
other, larger and more beautiful; the river very 
wide, the water deep, free from shoals, and the 



OF SAN CARLOS. 'l^^ 

curt ent scarce^ly felt. On each bank were trees 
of an immense size, amongst which I could dis- 
tinguish the enormous bulk of the cotton tree, 
cedar, mahogany, bally, locust, sapodilla, various 
species of the palm, and a vast variety of others 
totally unknown to me. Shortly after entering 
this reach we had a full view of the castle, and 
my Spanish companions began to make prepara- 
tions for landing. Turning a bend in the river 
we came at once in view of the lower part of the 
fort and village now within one mile distant. 
Here, the river again becomes contracted to about 
a quarter of a mile in breadth, with a strong cur^ 
rent. Our people took in their sails, and plied 
their oars so vigorously, that we were soon op- 
posite the castle, from the walls of which we were 
hailed, by an officer, using a speaking trumpet, 
with as much formality as if hostility had been 
anticipated. We lay on our oars in the meari 
time, the bongos continuing to drop astern with 
the current, until the requisite answers had been 
given, and permission to approach obtained. Havr 
ing pulled through the strong current setting out 
of the lake, we landed in front of the castle, where 
we were met by the commandant, with a guai'd, 
and half the population of the place apparently at- 
tracted by curiosity to see the spy of the Indepen* 
dents^ and his " Indios Bravos ; " — their looks 
gave evidence that they considered my situation 
desperate. 

We entered the fort by a drawbridge of great 
strength and magnitude, suspended by enormous 
iron chains ; and, through two immense gates, in- 
to a long aixhed passage, having on each side se- 
veral cells, those to the right appearing to extent! 



192 RELTGOUS TRACTS. 

round the whole side of the building. Every door 
had a strong iron grating, about two feet squarej 
to admit light and air ; and there appeared to be 
prisoners within most of them. Into one of these 
places I was commanded to enter, and was left to 
my own cogitations. I gave way for some time 
to the most melancholy reflections, from which I 
was agreeably roused by the entrance of a lieutenant 
and two people, bringing me a supper from the 
Govenior Don Juan Blanco's table, with a bottle 
of wine and some agua-ardiente. The lady of this 
lieutenant kindly sent me a pillow and blanket ; 
and he informed me that the Governor would see, 
and interrogate me in the morning. I remarked 
to him that the cell, in which I w^as confined, ap- 
peared to be such as is usually appropriated for 
the reception of felons ; and, pointing to the bed- 
stead, bottomed with a half-dressed hide, the 
stool, and large jar, its only furniture, and to the 
decorations on the walls, one of them representing 
a man hanging from a gibbet, and another m the 
act of being shot, I asked, as well as I could make 
myself miderstood, if it w^as right to confine me in 
such a place as this previous to my tnal ? — that 
I was perfectly innocent, and that the papers found 
in my vessel would be sufficient to confute, by a 
mere reference to their dates, the evidence of the 
rascals who had accused me. Next morning the 
Commandant informed me that he had been look- 
ing over my papers, amongst which w^ere some 
religious tracts, and ten or twelve New Testa- 
ments, wdiich he seemed to consider likely to be 
of a political nature ; but that, as he could not 
find any of his people to explain them properly, he 
had determined to send tlaem to Granada. He 



VILLAGE OF SAN CARLOS. 193 

gave me liberty, in the mean time, to walk about 
the place, of which I immediately availed myself ; 
and I was shortly joined by the friendly lieuten- 
ant, who invited me to his quarters, where we 
were visited by several other officers, one of whom 
I fortunately recogiiised to be a persoi^ who I 
had once seen on board a Jamaica trader. He 
also recollected me, and immediately reported the 
circumstance to the Governor, who ordered me to 
attend liim next day at his house, which is situated 
on rising ground near the castle, commanding an 
extensive view of the lake, and the village of San 
Carlos. The village contains about one hundred 
and fifty houses, tlie walls are of clay or mud, of 
considerable thickness, neatly white-washed, which 
gives them the appearance of cleanliness and soli- 
dity. They are roofed with the branches of a 
particular species of palm, which are from twenty 
t^ thirty feet long, and, after being split the whole 
length of the branch, they are well adapted for 
the purpose, the pendant leaves overlaying each 
other, on the outside, as compactly as slates. 
These serve to keep out the rain several years 
without being changed. 

The house of the Commandant, however, and 
those in the garrison, are covered with tiles. The 
inhabitants, including the garrison, I supposed to 
be, in number, about seven hundred persons. 

It is only in very recent charts that any notice 
has been taken of this fort, which may be deno- 
minated the Key of the Lake, defending it, on the 
only quarter supposed to be approacliable from 
the Atlantic ; and, consequently protecting, on that 
side, tlie towns of Nicaragua, Granada, Trinidad, 
Q G 



194 ISLANDS AND LAKE 

San Miguel, San Filippe, Massaya, Monagua, 
Matares, Puebla Nueva, the City of Leon, and 
other places m the interior. The castle is situated 
on an eminence of considerable elevation above 
the lake ; but the approach is not so steep as to 
render the ascent to it difficult. It is a sort of 
parallelogram, facing a sinuosity of the river at 
the upper reach at its embouchure from the lake, 
and whose lines are longer towards the lake it- 
self, than towards the interior. Towards the lat- 
ter quarter the land is low, presenting an impass- 
able swamp, or marsh, overgrown with mangrove, 
wild plantain, and small bamboos. The castle is 
smTounded by a deep dry ditch, faced with stone 
from its bottom to the embrasures : the opposite 
side is also walled, and studded with large hard- 
wood palisades, or cJievaux defrise; its only en- 
trance is by the drawbridge already mentioned. 
The strong current of the liver on two sides, to- 
gether ^\dth the swampy nature of the ground in 
its rear, renders the position of this fortress very 
strong. It commands an extensive view of the 
lake, and of the islands of Sonate, Madera, Omp- 
tepec, Zapatera, &c. ; also, ten or twelve miles of 
the river San Juan. 

On the afternoon of the day following that last 
mentioned, I waited on the Governor, who had now 
determined to send me across the lake, along with 
my books and papers,^ to Granada; and said that, 

* The Religious Tracts and Testaments which excited 
his apprehensions, had been received from the Rev. Mr 
Armstrong of Balize, to be distributed among the British 
settlers on the Mosquito Shore, and such Spanish or other 
traders, as might, in the course of my voyage, be desirous 
of haviog them. 



OF NICARAGUA. 195 

in consequence of the information communicate^I, 
by one of his officers, he was inclined to believe I 
was merely an agent of the contraband traders on 
the coast. He assured me that my Indians should 
be taken care of during my absence, and, inviting 
me to spend the evening with iiis family, treated 
me with the greatest hospitality, endeavouring " 
however to draw information from me on subjects 
of a political nature ; and regarding occurrences 
which, for fear of implicating myself, I found it 
necessary to appear not to understand. Occa- 
sionally sheltering myself from his questions by 
answering, " no intiende Sen or, " — expressions of 
suspicion and disappointment repeatedly escaped 
from him. He stated that, when Truxillo in the 
Bay of Honduras was attacked by the insurgent 
General Aurey, he was commandant of the place ; 
and, that Aurey, who had landed his troops about 
three miles from the town, had been defeated by 
the Charib troops alone, — the Spaniards never 
having come out of their shelter. I happened to 
know more of the affair, and of the nature of the 
expedition, than he was aware of; and, although I 
found it necessary to be prudent, I parried many of 
his inquiries on other suljjects by questions regard- 
ing Truxillo, and the attack upon it, which he did 
not feel disposed to answer. I was accommodat- 
ed with a hammock in the piazza of his house ; 
and being to depart for Granada next morning, his 
good lady and her daughter presented me with a 
quantity of chocolate, bread, cheese, eggs, wine, 
and cane spirits (agua-ardientedelcania.) My cri- 
tical situation called forth the most tender expres- 
sions of their pity, and the kindest demonstrations 
of benevolence. Requesting me to take the ham- 



196 ^ DEPART FOE GRANADA. 

mock, blanket, and pillow for my accommodation 
on the voyage across the lake, they retired, com- 
mending me to the protection of the Virgin, and 
all the saints in the Calendar. Before daybreak 
I was conducted to the landing place, and embark- 
ed in a large boat, usually employed by Govern- 
ment as a despatch-boat for conveying soldiers and 
stores from Granada to San Carlos. It was in no 
respect superior to the bongo in which I ascended 
the river, and was, in like manner, navigated by a 
Creole of Granada and twenty-two men, accompa- 
nied by Senor Raymond, my former companion, 
who expressed some surprise at finding that I was 
ordered to Granada, considering it by no means 
prudent to send so suspicious a person as myself, 
into a quarter so jealously shut up from the know- 
ledge of the English, especially at this critical 
period. I dare say, however, he consoled liimself 
with the supposition that I should never be allow- 
ed to return. For my own part I had now little 
doubt that my innocence would be made mani- 
fest ; and as I had often v/ished to visit this noble 
lake, I began to contemplate the prospects before 
me, with more satisfaction. There was not a breath 
of wind to ruffle the smooth surface of the lake ; 
but, as the sun rose, we had a slight breeze from 
the south-east, and the same Idnd of awkward sail 
was used as in ascending the river : the tack was 
occasionally boomed out, or, as the wind changed, 
carried forward sometimes nearly to the stem, 
which drove our clumsy craft faster to leewai'd 
than a-hea<l. The beauty of the scene which we 
now beheld — the sun being nearly an hour high — 
is far beyond my feeble pov/ers of description ; — 
to the westward I could distincfuish sevei-al islands, 



SAN MIGUEL. 197 

which appeared in a line extending north-west and 
south-east, five or six leagues ; — one being of great 
height, the others lower. From the castle to the 
southward, the land appeared broken and indis- 
tinct, like low islands, trending away to the north- 
west. 

We passed near to several small islands which 
lay in the immediate vicinity of the mainland ; 
many of them were not more than about half a 
mile long, low, and covered with wood. About 
ten o'clock we came opposite the village of San 
Miguel, said to be fortified on account of los In- 
dios bravos; and, landing on a small island, we 
lighted a fire and breakfasted, the crew upon 
passas, or sun-dried beef, chocolate^ and plan- 
tains : Don Raymond, the Padrone and myself, 
faring more sumptuously. We afterwards renew- 
ed our voyage with a fine favourable breeze ; 
booming out our sail on both sides : the yard 
squared itself, having neither lifts nor braces ; and, 
by looking over the side, I judged we were going 
at the rate of four or five miles an hour. During 
the morning we passed several Hattos or grazing 
farms, situated in the large savannahs which ex- 
tend from the brink of the lake, as far back as the 
eye can reach, and seem terminated only by ridges 
of hills, in the extreme distance, to the north. Im- 
mense herds of cattle and horses were feeding in 
these savannahs, and I also distinguished mules, 
but no sheep were to be seen. The cattle appear- 
ed to be of a large breed, similar to those of Buenos 
Ayres. Destitute of books, and apprehensive of 
creating an unfavourable impression by asking 
many questions of Seiior Raymond and the Pa- 
Q 2 



198 THE PADRONE* 

drone, I amused myself by observing and reflect- 
ing on the entirely new scenes before me, and by 
trying occasionally to count or estimate the num- 
ber of cattle on a given space ; but I was some- 
times, after counting as far as four or five hundred, 
obliged to relinquish the task. 

Shortly after noon the breeze dying gradually 
away, our Padrone vociferated loudly for the aid 
of all the saints. He did not content himself with 
invoking San Antmiio, generally applied to by the 
Spanish and Portuguese sailors, but whom, by a 
rather contemptuous epithet used after his name, 
he seemed to think could do no good on this fresh 
water lake ; but finding- none of them likely to in- 
terfere in his fpvvour, recourse was had to the oai*s ; 
and at about three o^clock we landed at a Hatto, 
where a rude wharf of large stones liad been con- 
structed. At this farm-house we were received 
with much civility by the inmates, consisting of 
the farmer, his wife, and two fine young women, 
all Creoles of the country. A large quantity of 
jerked beef, and cheeses, had been got ready for 
the Padrone, whose anival seemed to have been 
expected. These articles being shipt, we proceed- 
ed on our voyage, hauling off rather farther from 
the shore than during the fore part of the day ; 
and we shortly distinguished land on the opposite 
side of the lake, in the direction of the town of 
Nicaragua, appearing low and in broken lumps 
lilie islands scarcely visible above the water's G^ge ; 
also, three large islands gradually rising to the 
north-west. We had a favourable wind during the 
night, and I was told in l4ie morning that we were 
to the westward of the town or village of Trini- 
ada. 



ORISONS, &c, 199 

The Padi'one awoke me in the morning by a 
most noisy orison, in which he was joined by his 
crew ; but some shrewd looking fellows among 
them seemed to be more in jest than otherwise, 
contending with each other who should make the 
most noise, and name the greatest number of saints. 
I ventured to remark that they had frightened the 
breeze, or displeased the saints, by making so 
much noise, as, by the time they finished, the wind 
had entirely failed, and they would, as a punish- 
ment, have to labour at their oars. We had for 
some time been drawing towards an island upon 
which we breakfasted as before. This island, like 
others in its vicinity, is composed of immense rocks, 
and the water round it is clear and deep. Large 
trees grow on every spot where there is soil ; but 
although there are many such islands on this side of 
the lake very beautiful and picturesque in appear- 
ance, few or none of them are inhabited, or fit for 
cultivation, except as gardens or vineyards. This 
breeze having again sprung up, we hastened on 
board, and were soon under sail. I still perceived 
a number of grazing farms, but nearer to each 
other than those we had seen on the preceding 
day, situated like them, in savannahs covered in all 
directions by herds of cattle. The country was evi- 
dently becoming more populous as we approached 
to the west, and several bongos appeared sailing 
in the direction of Granada and Nicaragua.* 

* According to a survey executed by means of a water- 
level in the yea,r 1781, by Don Matias de Galvez, a Spa- 
nish engineer, the surface of the Lake of Nicaragua is 
about one hundred and thirty-five feet above the Gulf of 
Papagayo : and, the Lake being about 89 foct deep, its 



20O VOLCANIC ISLAND. 

About ten o'clock we began to leave the north 
side, and with a more favourable breeze to stretch 
across the lake. Shortly after noon we passed an 
island, which, rising in majestic grandeur from the 
bosom of the lake, seems to be of volcanic origin. 

The lower part, and nearly two-thirds of the 
ascent, is covered with wood of large growth ; ve- 
getation above that height appeared more scanty ; 
and the summit, which terminates in a peak, was 
entirely bare. From the nearest point of view in 
the direction in which we sailed, I estimated its 
length at seven or eight miles. Directly towards 
the south-west no land was visible, which coin- 
cided with a statement made by the old Spaniard 
who joined us coming up the river, and who had 
in his possession a manuscript chart, in whichfthe 
land in that direction, is laid down as being low, 
and not above fifteen miles or thereby in breadth, 
across from the Lake to the South Sea. 

Having passed this and other islands, we came 
in view of the city of Granada, standing on a gent- 
ly rising gTOund, at a small distance from the lake. 
In the evening we landed at the Playa, near which 
I perceived a small fort or battery in the shape of 
a crescent or half moon, with embrasures for 
twelve guns facing the lake. The carriages seemed 
falling to pieces, and the whole battery was in a 
state of dilapidation and ruin. 

bottom consequently is forty-six Spanish feet above the 
level of the South Sea. The surveyor ascertained the , 
level by three hundred and thirty-six stations of asceote 
604? ft. 8 in. 8 li., and three hundred and thirty-nin, 
stations of descent, 470 ft. lin.Yli, — Humboldt's Kar* 
raUve, Vol. 6th. Part gd.^ p. T97. 



GRANADA. 201 

On landing we were received by some black 
soldiers, stationed as guards at some warehouses 
built here for the reception of goods. One of 
these men informed me, in good English, that he 
had run away from his master, a Honduras mer- 
chant ; and, travelling from Omra to Guatemala, 
had there entered the Spanish service, — had been 
sent to Realejo, — then to the city of Leon, — and, 
finally, to Granada. He expressed an inclination 
to do me any service in his power, and I perceived 
that the whole of the company, to Vv^hich he be- 
longed, was made up of such runaway slaves, 
chiefly from the Island of St Domingo ; — they 
were all well armed and clothed. The Playa, or 
landing-place, is a mere open beach without any 
wharf or other conveniency for shipping goods, 
which have to be carried to and from the Bongos 
in small canoes, or on the backs of men or mules, 
a good cable's length into the water, whi(^ is here 
very shallow, with a bottom of fine sand. Th^ 
approach to the city is by a good road ; and about 
half a mile from the lake we passed a large mona- 
stery and, two churches in the Calle de Playay be- 
fore entering the market place. I was conducted 
directly to the Governor s house, before which is a 
handsom.e gateway ; and, while waiting in the 
porch until called for, I noticed over the inner- 
door, a poorly painted portrait, bearing the modest 
inscription, " Viva Ferdiiiando Septimo^ el libefrta- 
dor adorable de Europa ! / " 

I was shortly ushered into a large liall, where I 
found the acting Governor, several military officers, 
a priest, and an interpreter, through whom a gi'eat 
many questions were put to me ; but, so far as I 
could understand Spanish, the inteipreter gave re- 



202 EXAMINATION AND 

plies essentially different to those elicited from me. 
Being ordered to withdraw in charge of a sergeant 
and two soldiers, I was conducted to the harracks, 
atid thrust into a cell similar to that which I had 
first occupied at San Carlos. The hlack soldier, 
who had spoken to me at the landing-place, told 
me, through the grating, that it was the conviction 
of the Governor and his friends, that I actually was 
a spy of the Revolutionists ; as was more particu- 
larly evident hy the pamphlets in my possession. 
Suspecting this man was sent to obtain informa- 
tion to be carried to the Governor, I related par- 
ticularly how I received these books, and the ob- 
ject of my voyage ; observing to him that the an- 
swers I had given had not been fairly interpreted : 
and, I entreated him to make this known to the 
Governor, from whom he returned about ten 
o'clock vrith a supper, some agua-ardiente, and a 
bottle of wine ; with an intimation that I should 
undergo another examination in the morning. 

On sounding this fellow I found him shrewd 
and intelligent : he hinted that, were I to request 
it, he himself might be permitted to act as in- 
terpreter ; he owned that he wished, from mo- 
tives of self-interest, that he might be ordered to 
attend me to the city of Leon, an idea which I 
encouraged, that I might secm*e his confidence, 
being desirous, now that I gave up my small pro- 
perty as lost, to see the country. 

My cell was intolerably hot, but having under- 
gone much fatigue during the day, I soon forgot 
my sorrows, and slept until aroused by the beat- 
ing of the reveille^ and the noise of the soldiers 
hurrying to the parade at daybreak next morning. 
In a few minutes the bustle was over ; a pasar 



IMPRISONMENT. 203 

ing soldier threw me a bundle of cigars, and kindly 
brought me some fire to light one : he expressed 
much compassion for my situation ; and, giving a 
cautious glance to each side, told me, " los pa- 
ti'iotes *' were " muy bueno ; " and vented some ex- 
ecrations against the present goverament. About 
eight o'clock the soldiers returned, and my door 
was crowded by people whose curiosity was ex- 
cited by the report that an Englishman, employed 
at San Juan by the Patriots, as an agent and spy, 
had arrived. Many of them evinced a kindly feel- 
ing in my favour, who evidently dared not express 
themselves in other language than that of pity and 
regret for my present situation. Others there were 
who cursed me as an insurgent, a spy, a pirate, 
and a heretic, — but these were few in number 
compared with others who never retired from the 
grating, without throwing something into' the cell, 
so that in the course of the morning the floor was 
covered over with cakes, gingerbread, cheese, cho- 
colate, cigars, and not a few quartos, medios, reals, 
dollars and other coins. In this whimsical situa- 
tion I found myself placed like a wild beast in a 
cage, unable, if ever so much inclined, to with- 
draw for one moment, from observation. I had 
this consolation, however, that nearly all my visi- 
tors seemed to consider themselves bound to pay 
something for the sight, or contribute towards my 
support. Many of them, who were evidently 
afraid of being observed by those attached to the 
existing government, hastily threw money into the 
cell and withdrew ; almost every one who peeped 
in, bad a cigar in his mouth, and the smoke and 
-heat became so intolerable, that I found myself 



204! KINDNESS O? THE INHABITANTS. 

in danger of suffocation, which obliged me to 
beg a few minutes respite, that fresh air might 
be admitted. When the smoke began to dis- 
perse, I set myself to collect the vairous ar- 
ticles which had been thrown into my cell ; 
and was agreeably surprised to find that the con- 
tributions in cash amounted to twenty- seven dol- 
lars, besides sweetmeats, chocolate, cheese, gin- 
gerbread, cigars, &c. sufficient for several week's 
consumption. About eleven o'clock my negro 
friend brought me a substantial breakfast, and a 
bottle of wine ; and what rather sm-prised me — 
the chocolate was in a silver pot, on a ti*ay 
covered by a clean white napkin. I mentioned 
the donations I had received in the morning, to 
show that I could now rewai'd him if he acted 
faithfully, giving him a dollar as earnest, and im- 
pressing upon him the certainty tliat I should be 
able to provide amply for every exp'ense if we were 
sent to Leon : — He retired, assuring me I might 
depend upon him, and carrying my thanks to the 
good lady, the Governor's mother, who had sent 
me breakfast. I was again visited by several per- 
sons desirous of seeing the pirate, patriot, or he- 
retic ; for, in the opinion of all, I must be one of 
these, and consequently an extraordinary chara,cter. 
A heretic, they agreed, I must be, at all events, 
as I neither prayed, crossed myself, nor pulled off 
my hat, on passing the churches. In the evening, 
after the acting governor had taken his siesta, I 
was conducted to his house, and examined by the 
same assemblage as on the preceding night, and by 
two additional padres ; the negro was tbere^ and 
the former interpreter, who having shamefully mis- 



FINAL EXAMINATION. 205 

interpreted my reply to a question regai'ding the 
introduction of British goods at Matina, and per- 
sisted in eluding ray meaning, I requested the ne- 
gro to make known, to his Excellency, the igno- 
rance and wilful prevarication. This at once called 
forth the malignity of the man, an old Spaniard, 
who could not read one word of English : — he de- 
nounced me immediately as an insurgent and spy, 
alluded to the hooks, and observed to the padres, 
who had put many questions on the subject, that 
he had no doubt I had distributed pamphlets in the 
Spanish tongue ; and that I ought to be sent to 
Leon, where it would soon be ascertained what, 
and who I was. As I persisted in declaring my 
innocence, and expressed my willingness to pro- 
ceed to Leon, the Governor informed me I should 
depart next day, assuring me, through my negro 
interpreter, that I should want for nothing, — that 
his duty compelled him to act, at present, with ri- 
gour against those who were known to be disturb- 
ers of the government, but that if it eventually 
turned out that my representations were correct, 
Don Miguel Seravia, the governor of the district 
of Leon, who was the proper person to decide on 
my case, would treat me with the gi*eatest justice. 
I was conducted back to the barracks, ordered a 
better apartment than the cell I had last occupied, 
and had liberty to walk about in the square. Next 
day I again attended the deputy-governor, who 
informed me that every thing had been prepared 
for my departure to Leon, and that a sergeant, my 
negro friend, and three other black soldiers, well 
armed and mounted on mules, vyould form my es* 

R 



206 



DEPARTURE FOR LEON. 



cort. A good horse, a pair of boots, and enor- 
mous iron spurs, had been provided for me ; and in 
about twenty minutes after setting off, we found 
ourselves clear of the city, on a good road, suffi- 
ciently broad to admit of our riding abreast. 



CHAPTER X. 

MASSAYA REMARKABLE STRATA OF LAVA 

BETWEEN THE LAKES OF LEON AND NICARA- 
GUA WHEEL CARRIAGES MULES, &C. MONA- 

GUA HOSPITALITY OF THE CURA— MATARE8 

MAMA-TOMBA — ^MOUNTAIN ROAD AND GAME 

NAGAROTTA PUEBLO NUEVA PLAIN OF 

I,EON — CHAIN OF THE ANDES ANSWER TO 

BARON HUMBOLDT ARRIVAL AT LEON IT» 

VICINITY TO THE SOUTH SEA STORY OF ENG- 
LISH SAILORS FINAL EXAMINATION AND AC- 
QUITTAL DON ALLEMAGNE — HIS VALUABLE 

TRADE CITY OF LEON ITS HOUSES, &C. — • 

PROVISIONS' — LUXURIOUS MODE OF LIVING — • 
URBANITY OF THE GOVERNOR. 

We left Granada about three o'clock ; the sergeant 
and three of the men who formed my escort were 
from San Domingo, and generally spoke French^ 
the other was the English negro, who expressed 
himself much pleased at the journey. I consider- 
ed it my interest to pay court to these black guards 
as early as possible; and therefore, at the first 
piilperio house we came to, I invited them to 
drink wine, brandy, or whatever else they liked 
best ; assuring them that, so far as my purse went, it 



208 APPEARANCE OF 

was at their service. The English negro swore I 
was an innocent man, and had no cause to fear the 
result of my jouiTiey, wliich would be made as a- 
greeable to me as possible ; and, by way of a pro- 
per commencement, they, with the exception of the 
sergeant, who appeared to be a very steady man, 
got nearly drunk. 

The country through which we passed was well 
cultivated, producing considerable quantities of 
maize, plantains, and bananas. We entered Mas- 
saya about eight o'clock, and on alighting at the 
Cuartel in the square, I found myself very serious- 
ly indisposed with violent pains in the head, back, 
and loins ; accompanied by great sickness — alai'm* 
ing symptoms in a person like me inured to the 
climate, and I entreated for medical assistance, but 
there was none to be obtained in the place. My 
escort, who had reported to Colonel Sacassa (the 
father of the deputy-governor of Granada) our ar- 
rival, brought me a good supper and a bottle of 
wine : and, what I prized still more, three com- 
plete suits of light clothes, consisting of gingham 
jackets, trowsers with loose feet to them, shirts, 
vests, and a straw-hat, with a brim as large as an 
umbrella ; — all nearly new, with an intimation that 
they were presented " to the sick Englishman" by 
a son of the Colonel, who also let me know that 
as my illness was probably occasioned by mere fa- 
tigue in a warm climate, I would be recovered be-* 
fore morning ; but if not, that I need not proceed, 

I awoke early, with little feeling of my former 
illness ; and the distance to our next stage, Mona- 
gua, being about seven leagues, it was necessary 
to set forward immediately so as to accomplish 
the journey in the morning, l^efore the heat be- 



THE COUNTRY. 209 

came oppressive. The road was still exceedingly 
good, and for nearly five miles lay through fields 
of maize, separated by wooden fences. We then 
entered a thick forest ; on emerging we found our- 
selves at the entrance of a considerable village, in 
which few persons were yet awake. My escort 
made a thundering noise at the door of a small 
pulperio, commanding the inmates to open, in the 
King's name, and produce the best liquor the 
house could afford, for that they were " sol dados 
del Rey, " requiring refreshment. Some agua- 
ardiente and tobacco were produced, but when I of- 
fered to pay, the sergeant desired me to put up 
my money, observing that " the fellow's liquor 
was bad, and not worth the trouble. " This vil- 
lage is situated half-way between Massaya and 
Monagua. The road, after leaving the village, 
continues through woods ; and shortly ascends a 
considerable eminence, from whence we had a 
clear prospect of both the Lakes of Leon and Ni- 
caragua, and also the town of Monagua, in which 
several churches stood conspicuous. On the top 
of this eminence we crossed a strata of lava, about 
five hundred yards in breadth, sounding, when 
struck, like metal, the surface partially decom- 
posed. It had, at some period, burst from a 
mountain which we saw at some distance to the 
left of us, and the stream had evidently spread as 
it reached the low country. I dismounted and 
walked slowly across to examine the nature and 
effects of this stream, whose course I could clear- 
ly discern for many miles in a direction completely 
crossing the country between the Lakes of Nica^ 
ragua and Leon, close to the laMer : and, I can 
» 2 



210 STREAM OF LAVA. 

confidently assert, thai it had to all E^pearance ef- 
fectually shut up that communication hetween the 
lakes which, hitherto, has been supposed to exist, 
and is laid down as existing, in every map or 
chart hitherto published. The mountain from 
which the lava flow^ed, must not be confounded 
with that of Granada, although it is nearly of the 
same height ; and perhaps this eruption, which, in 
my opinion, has decidedly separated the two lakes, 
may be the same mentioned by Inarras, who, 
speaking of the extintruished volcano of Massaya 
says, " at a small distance from this, there is an- 
other volcano, called Nindiri, remarkable for an 
eruption in 1775, when it discharged a torrent of 
lava that rolled into the lake of Massaya, " (or 
Leon), " in which it destroyed the fish, and heat- 
ed the lands contiguous to its passage, to so gi'eat 
a degree, that all the cattle feeding on them pe- 
rished. " * 

In our descent to the plain we overtook several 
mules laden with Indian com ; and also a fev^r 
large wains, or w^aggons similarly loaded, drawn 
by twelve, and some of them by fourteen oxen, 
very clumsily yoked. The total absence of iron 
about these carriages is a proof of its scarcity in 
the country; the wheels were of immense cir- 
cumference, and the rim at leasts ten or twelve 
inches over. The axles were also of w^ood, on 
which the friction made such a noise as to be 
heard at a mile's distance. The waggoners and 
muleteers very officiously drove their cattle to one 
side to let us pass,— -uncovering their heads to the 
escort with great submission. 

* I-IistDry of Guatemala. London, 1824, page 69. 



MONAGUA. 211 

We entered Monagua about nine o'clock, and 
rode directly to the house of the alcalde, from 
whom the sergeant demanded provisions for his 
party. After giving the negro soldier money to 
buy wine, &c. for the entertainment of the escort, I 
endeavoured to rest myself in an open apartment, 
but was soon^annoyed by finding the house be- 
set by people anxious to get a sight of the Inde- 
pendente. 1 had no remedy but patience, and I 
endeavoured to bear their scrutiny without mani- 
festing discontent ; many of them laid down money 
before their departure, and I was at last relieved 
from their troublesome attentions by the cura of 
the place, who kindly procured the sergeant's per- 
mission to take me to his own house where I was 
free from intrusion. After an excellent dinner, 
followed by coffee, my worthy host, Senor Poly- 
carpo Inygojen, retired, according to the universal 
custom in these countries, to enjoy his siesta; 
and, a liammock being slung for me, I was re- 
quested to do the same ; the room was darkened, 
and in a few minutes the house was as quiet, as if 
it had been midnight. In the evening I was ques- 
tioned regarding my connection with the Patriots, 
and the progress of the revolution in Mexico and 
South America ; but I was necessarily obliged to 
give general and very cautious replies. 

My good host seemed so pleased with me, that 
he wrote to his friend the Governor of Leon in my 
favour ; and requesting that, if I should be de- 
clared innocent of the charges against me, I might 
be permitted to remain with him a few days on 
my return ; and during the remainder of the even- 
ing treated me with the greatest kindness and 
ho8i)itaiity. 



212 MATARES. 

Next morning we recommenced our journey a- 
bout three o'clock, proceeding through fields of 
maize, and plantations of cocoa. About daybreak 
we entered a savannah which was tolerably free 
fi'om wood ; and, shortly afterwards, ascended a 
hill from whence we again had a delightful view 
of the lakes and islands. Several light and loaded 
bongos were sailing on the lake of Leon, which, 
with the beautiful country on its borders, formed 
an enchanting scene. At the bottom of this lull, 
and at a short distance from tlie lake, stands the 
town or village of Matares ; (or Maytiare) and at 
a distance of some miles, in the lake, there is a 
high conical island, named Mama Tomba, which 
my companions assured me was a volcano, and had 
often been in an active state. It exhibited no 
symptoms of eruption at present ; but it does not 
appear to be laid down in any map that I have 
seen, and may perhaps have been mistaken, by 
geopraphers, for the Volcan ds Leon^ or Volcan 
Viejo, 

We reached Matares about nine o'clock, and 
proceeded to the Puehla^ a house set apart in 
most Spanish American towns, where there is no 
passado, for the reception of travellers. This 
place contains about three hundred houses, a mar- 
ket place, in the middle of the town as usual, and 
two churches. The alcalde furnished such pro- 
visions as were required. I had an opportunity 
of bathing in the lake, and I found myself much 
invigorated and refreshed by it : the water was 
very clear, and appeared to be of great depth, the 
edges of the lake bounded by immense rocks. 

Next morning we renewed our journey at three 
o'clock. The road is for some miles on the ele- 



NAGAKOXTA. 213 

vated border of the lake, but shortly asceads a 
mouiitaiu, having the appem'ance of being part of 
the broken chain of the Andes. I had some dif- 
ficulty in forcing my horse up the steep ascent, 
which is too perpendicular for wheel-carriages. 
We passed several mules laden with cocoa and 
Indian corn, on their way to Leon, On arriving 
at its summit, the road, which is tolerably good, 
continued through woods apparently abounding in 
monkeys, guams, curassows and other game ; par- 
ticularly quails, partridges, and large pigeons ; the 
two latter scarcely avoiding our horse's feet. The 
steep part of the ascent is not more than about a 
mile and a half in length ; and appears to be the 
only part of the route between Granada and the 
South Sea impassable for wheel carriages. On 
reaching the highest part, it continues a distance 
of seven or eight miles, along a high ridge, with 
deep valleys on each side, completely covered with 
wood ; and then gi-adually descends to a level 
plain, extending the whole way to Leon. 

We entered Nagarotta, a small village, about 
ten o'clock, and proceeding to the Puebla, were 
furnished with breakfast and supper, by the Al- 
calde of the place ; the escort obtaining from me 
as usual, the means of procuring wine, agua- 
ardiente, and other luxuries. We left Nagarot- 
ta at the usual horn* in the morning, by a 
road through woods abounding in game. We saw 
many deer among the trees, and crossing the road. 
We passed several waggons, and mules, on their 
way to Leon, loaded with Indian corn, cocoa, &c. 
We arrived early at Puebla Nueva, after a very plea- 
sant ride, and repaired to the Puebla, a mud hut. 
Here the seijeant assumed aii*s of great impor- 



514 PtAIN OF LrON. 

tanee, fm* instead of going to the Alcalde, he sent 
for that person to come to him. He accordingly 
made his appearance with his Indian ba<lge of 
office, a handsome silver-headed cane. The ser- 
geant told this native functionary that he was the 
bearer of important despatches for the Governor of 
Leon ; and ordered him to furnish a breakfast " fit 
for a gentleman of his consideration ! " The village, 
consisting of about one hundred mud houses and 
a church, has only lately been established, and ap- 
pears to be exclusively inhabited by Indians, as I 
did not perceive any European, Spaniard, or priest. 
Being shut out from any communication with the 
lake, its only advantages seem to be, that it is on 
the road from the lake of Nicaragua to Leon ; and 
in the vicinity of rich land, bearing heavy crops of 
Indian corn, and cocoa, and forms a resting place 
for carriers and travellers coming over the heights. 
Having to make our entry into Leon the following 
day, the soldiers soon employed themselves ia 
cleaning their arms and accoutrements, not forget- 
ting to feast on the best fare the place afforded. 

In the morning we again renewed our journey; 
the road was very good, and lay through a level 
well wooded country abounding in game. Deer 
were frequently seen on the road, and stopped to 
gaze on us, attracted apparently by the soldiers red 
jackets, until they were within a very short dis^ 
tance. We passed several cultivated farms ; and 
in some of the court yards, we saw deer mixed 
with the cattle, as if domesticated. Several large 
waggons and mules were on the road, and every 
appearance indicated our approach to a populous 
city. About seven in the morning we emerged 
from the woods into what may properly be desig*- 



CHAIN OF THE ANDES. 215 

natod the plain of Leon, covei^d by immense fields 
of Indian corn, and large grass plains extending 
as far as the eye could reach, covered with nume- 
i*ous herds of cattle, and horses ; many of the lat- 
ter would have been considered beautiful even in 
Eui'ope. To the right, we had a view of a small 
part of the lake ; and, to the left, at some distance, 
of an elevation on which stood a mansion, belong- 
ing as I w^as told, to a Spanish officer, command- 
ing a prospect of the intermediate country between 
tlje lake and South Sea. We had a glimpse of 
the latter from a high part of the road, but the 
sergeant's fear of being observed and considered 
remiss in his duty, and his anxiety to reach Leon 
preventing me from going off the road, or halting 
to admire the scene. Although the land in the vi- 
cinity of the lake, and ai'ound us, was in general 
low pasture and corn fields, highlands, and moun- 
tains of great elevation, were distinctly visible at 
a distance to the north, and north-east, the recom- 
mencement, no doubt, of the broken chain of the 
Andes- 

The Baron Humboldt, in his work on South 
America, regrets the want of information respect- 
ing this part of Nicaragua and Costa Rica ; and 
observes, that " it would be of much importance 
to 'ascertain whether an uninterrupted chain of 
mountains exists in this ' direction. " In refer-^ 
ence to the learned Baron*s inquiries, I can affirm, 
that the first opening, or complete separation of 
this chain, is between the lake of Nicaragua, and 
the gulf of Papagayo ; that the mountains and vol- 
canic chain again begin to rise to the north-west 
of that position, and continues to within about 
twelve leagues of the cit^^ of Leon, where it is a 



21^ ARRIVAL AT LEON. 

second time cut off, but again appears to the north- 
east of tliat city, and north of the Lake of Leon, 
the mountains continuing to rise in elevation as 
they stretch northward, and eastward, above tlie 
sources of the great rivers wliich fall into the At- 
lantic at Bluefields, Cape Gracias a Dios, and in- 
to the Bay of Honduras. Nature, by separating 
this otherwise insui'mountable banier, seems here 
to indicate the proper points where a communica- 
tion between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans 
might be accomplished ; but, on tliis subject I 
shall have occasion to treat more at large here- 
after. 

Before we entered the city, we passed the ca- 
thedral, a building of considerable magnitude in.the 
form of a cross, suiTOunded by the houses and 
gardens of the clergy. The great beauty of these 
gardens and their delightful situations, in eveiy 
respect evince the usual judgment of the holy fa- 
thers in selecting places for the establishment of 
that church, which, whatever influence its splendid 
worship may bave had in bringing part of the In- 
dians to a certain degree of civilization, is alleg- 
ed to have been the means of keeping the lower 
orders, inhabiting some of the fairest portions of 
the globe, in a state of helpless ignorance. 

As we rounded the point, on which the cathe- 
dral stands, we crossed a stone bridge, over what, 
at this time, appeared no larger than a small brook ; 
but which, in the rainy season, may be a consider- 
able stream, running in the direction of the South 
Sea. By an easy ascent, we then came to the 
suburbs, the houses one stoiy high, built of har- 
dened clay white washed. Having passed two 
or three mean k)okin2r streets, we entered the 



URBANITY OS THJl GOVERNOK. 217 

city, and the sergennt proceeded immediately to 
the Government House with his despatches. I did 
not wait long mitil I was ordered, hy an officer, to 
follow him ; and, being ushered into an apartment, 
Don Miguel Seravia in a few minutes made his 
appearance. He addressed me with the mildness 
and urbanity of a gentleman, inquiring, in good 
English, what unfortunate circumstance had in- 
duced me to enter the harbour of San Juan ? En- 
couraged by his manner, I briefly related every 
thing that had happened to me then, and subse- 
quently. The packet of papers, and the pam- 
phlets that had created so much distrust, were in 
his hands ; he read and examined part of the latter, 
and referred to my papers, among which were 
some invoices of goods intrusted to me, and some 
letters from my family in England. I directed 
his Excellency's attention to the dates of these pa- 
pers, which clearly proved that I could not haves 
been present at the capture of the vessels, or guilty 
of the crimes charged against me. He seemed 
convinced in a moment of my innocence, and ex- 
pressed some dissatisfaction at the stupidity of the 
Commandants who had ordered me forward, tel- 
ling me that I should forthwith return by the same 
route. 

In the meantime I was ordered to one of the 
apartments of the Cuartel, usually appropriated for 
the accommodation of officers ; but charged not to 
quit these barracks, or to have free communication 
with the inhabitants of the city. An officer con- 
ducted me to the Cuartel, which forms a large 
square of houses one story high, and contained 
about two hundred men. In the mess-room, I 



218 STORY OF 

was introduced lo some of the officers in com- 
mand of the troops then in the city, who treated 
me with attention, hut marks of suspicion and dis- 
tnist could not he concealed ; and many of them 
annoyed me with questions calculated to make me 
commit myself, in regard to my supposed connec- 
tion with the Independents. 

A sumptuous breakfast was served, consisting of 
fish, flesh and fowl ; with wine in abundance ; and, 
being now relieved from further serious apprehen- 
sions, I retired and enjoyed undisturbed repose, 
until I was summoned to a dinner, at which the 
greatest profusion prevailed. 

In the evening I was visited by an English sai- 
lor, whose story confirmed, not only every thing I 
had heard as to the vicinity of the South Sea to 
the Lake of Leon, (contrary to what is laid down 
in most charts), but, that the communication there- 
with is very easy ; and also completely corrobora- 
ting the almost incredible accounts of the old Buc- 
caniers, as to the supineness, insecurity, and de- 
fenceless state of the Spanish towns in this quarter 
of the world. He stated, and his story was con- 
firmed by other persons with whom I conversed, 
that having been some time on board the Buenos 
Ayrean frigate the Consequentia, he, and his com- 
panions, had become dissatisfied with the officers, 
and determined to quit the service the first oppor- 
tunity. Accordingly, when he and six of his com- 
panions, were put on board a prize, captured off 
the harbour of Realejo, with a prize-master and 
four others, they took the opportunity to secure 
the arms of the others, and, getting some provisions, 
spirits, arms, and ammunition, into a whale-boat, 
they quitted the vessel, with the intention of sur- 



ENGLISH SAtLORS. 219 

rendering to the Spaniards. Having beeome too 
much intoxicated to follow their original plan of 
making their way to a Spanish port, they drifted 
ashore on the beach to the southward of Realejo, 
without knowing where they were :• — having haul- 
ed up the boat, they renewed their drunken frolic ; 
quarrels arose, and their ringleader^ a desperate fel- 
low, was for shoving off the boat, and joining 
some of the privateers cruizing on the coast : this 
led to a fight, in the course of which he was run 
through the body with a boarding-pike. This fa- 
tal occurrence having brought them to their senses, 
they tnmed the boat upside down, put the dying 
man under her, and went in search of fresh water. 
On their return to the boat, they found that their 
comrade had breathed his last. They buried him 
in the sand, drank the remainder of the spirits, 
and in a state of intoxication proceeded into the 
interior of the country by a small path, discovered 
in searching for water, which led them into the 
main road, leading to the city of Leon. They 
shortly descried some Spaniards, who, alarmed at 
the approach of armed seamen, immediately fled. 
The fellows continued their route to the city, and 
entered the suburbs without meeting the least op- 
position. Seeing a large house to the left, they 
turned aside to it ; and, going into the court-yard 
or Quadra, proceeded to a piazza, where a gentle- 
man in a clerical habit appeared much alarmed at 
their intrusion. This emboldened them to de- 
mand spirits, which being immediately supplied, 
they again became incapable of exertion. The 
person on whom they had thus intruded, provetl 
to be the Archbishop of Leon, who was at first 
much disturbed, but having recovered his presence 



220 ENGLISH SAILORS. 

of mind, despatched some of his domestics to the 
Governor, who immediately ordered a company of 
soldiers to his relief; and the intoxicated sailors 
were forthwith carried to one of the guard-houses 
of the city. In the meantime, a great alai*m was 
created, that the Independent forces had landed, 
taken Realejo, and were advancing on Leon. 

Fortunately for these men, the worthy Arch- 
bishop influenced the Governor in their favour. 
jIn the mean time, people were despatched to the 
coast. They found the boat on the beach, and by 
the traces of blood, discovered the fate of the 
ringleader. The boat was brought up to the city 
in a waggon at the time the paity was undergoing 
an examination ; and the sagacity of Don Miguel 
Seravia soon elicited the whole truth, eveivto the 
cause of the death of their companion, the circum- 
stances of which they vainly tried to conceal. 

By the favour of the Bishop they were, after a 
month's confinement, released, but ordered not to 
quit the country. They had become Catholics, 
the good Archbishop standing godfather to the 
greater part of these precious neophytes, who were 
now variously employed in the city and neigh- 
bourhood. The one who narrated the story was 
a native of Whitehaven, tolerably well educated, 
and he seemed deeply to deplore some unfortu- 
nate circumstances which had brought him in con- 
nection with the Patriot frigate, the crew of which, 
he repeatedly assured me, could, at the time he 
landed, have sacked or destroyed the city with 
ease, because most of the Royalist forces had been 
despatched towards Panama and Lima, and the 
arms of the militia, who were chiefly Cr-eolcs of 



DON ALLEMAGNE. 221 

the country, and not to be depended an, being 
deposited in the Cathedral. 

Early next morning after my arrival, I was or- 
dered to wait on the Governor, with whom I 
found the Archbishop and " Don AUemagne, " as 
the Spaniards called him, a merchant cf Bremen 
or Hambm*gh, who had been some years resident 
here. The Governor had now the finesse to con- 
ceal his knowledge of the English language, and 
the German acted as interpreter. I was particu- 
larly questioned regarding the force and intentions 
of the Patriot ci-uisers, &c. in the Charibbeian Sea ; 
but, pleading ignorance on that subject, I was ex- 
amined regarding the intercourse between the In- 
dians and English, and whether I knew of any 
communication by water from the Lake of Nica- 
ragua to the Atlantic, otherwise than by the River 
San Juan. The Governor having, as he thought, 
elicited all the information on these subjects in my 
power to give him, told me I should leave Leon 
in three days, that in the meantime I might walk 
about the city ; but he refused the request of the 
German who wished me to remove to his house, 
and also my request to remain a few days longer, 
observing, that if my health was bad, I would be 
better in the country than in town, and that I 
might remain with my friend the Cura of Mona- 
gua a month if I wished it ; that four reals a day 
would be allowed for my travelling expenses, and 
that Don Juan Blanco, should have orders to re- 
turn as much of my property as could be discover- 
ed on my arrival at San Carlos ; but that my small 
vessel would be condemned. His Excellency ex- 
pressed regret that I had experienced so much an- 
s2 



222 DON ALLEMAGNEj 

Doyaiice, observing, that, under all circumstances, 
tlie Commandant at the hai'bour of San Juan 
would have been perfectly justified, by tlie appear- 
ances against me, if he had put me to death. 

On gaining the street, I expressed my tlianks to 
the German for his kindness, and promised to visit 
him ; — he observed, that I might consider myself 
fortunate in being so soon allowed to leave the 
country, that a resolution was hourly expected to 
take place, which, added to my having assisted in 
defence of the vessels at San Juan, was the sole 
cause of my having received permission to depart. 
He cautioned me against evincing too much cu- 
riosity in the city, and, above all, to avoid the so- 
ciety of the English deserters. His house w^as a 
large building, surrounded by a square or quadra 
of warehouses, the under part nearly filled with 
bales of cocoa, indigo, cochineal, sarsaparilla, peaii 
oyster shells, or mother of pearl, tortoise-shell, 
barks, gums, and various other articles, with some 
European goods. He said he had been establish- 
ed in the country nearly eight years, and had 
made voyages to Manilla, China, and Bengal ; that 
he had returned, only a few months ago, from a 
voyage to Europe : — that he had now a ship in the 
harbour of Realejo, which the Independents had 
attempted to cut out, but were beat off by the 
forts and gun-boats, on wliich account the Go- 
vernment had demanded forty thousand dollars, as 
salvage for part of the cargo then on board, and 
locked up the greater part of the goods in secu- 
rity for the payment, so that he was forced to take 
his goods from the public stores by degrees as he 
made sales : — that he did not consider his proper- 
ty safe in the present state of the country, auj 



HIS VALUABLE TRADE. 2M: 

meant to leave it, so soon as he could complete 
his vessel's cargo. 

I examined a large quantity of tortoise-shell 
which he had bought at 12 reals : most of it was 
light, cloudy, and of indifferent quality ; although 
there was also some fine transparent and heavy 
shells. The best pieces had evidently been picked 
out. I found him busily employed receiving a 
quantity of cocoa, which had arrived from Massaya 
on the backs of above eighty mules : it was re- 
weighed and examined with great care : the qua- 
lity was excellent. I assisted in the selection and 
arrangement of upwards of forty cases, each con- 
taining about one hundred weight of tortoise-shelL 
The quality of the parcel, as a whole, had been 
deterioriated not only by the abstraction of the 
finest parts, but also by the addition of the shcyrtei^s 
— small worthless pieces that form the sides of the 
turtle, but I have no doubt, if judiciously arrang- 
ed, it would be equal to that of the West Indies. 
My friend showed me also several casks of mother- 
of-pearl shell, in the selection of which he had been 
much puzzled ; the Indians paying no attention in 
collecting it, but bringing cloudy, carious, and 
worm-eaten pieces, mixed with the largest and 
most beautiful sorts. Many of tliese were brought 
from the Gulfs of Fonseca and Necoya, and he 
paid for most of these things in European goods, 
on which he had an enormous profit. 

I retired to the Cuartel early in the evening, 
where I found the English sailor waiting to solicit 
toy interest with the Governor, to be allowed to 
quit the country ; but I could only serve him by 
giving him such information as enabled him after- 
ivards to sail with my German friend from ileaiejo^ 



224 CITY OF LEOK. 

In the evening the German accompanied me in 
walk through the city. It covers a good deal of 
ground, and is, on the whole, handsome ; — many 
of the streets are broad, and intersect each other 
at right angles. The houses are large, but none 
exceed two stories ; — the fronts in general white 
washed, and the lower windows secured by bars 
of wrought iron, or oniamented gratings, which, 
with the shutters and lattices — the upper ones 
painted a light green — have a cool and pleasant 
appearance. Most of the houses are entered by a 
large gate leading into the court- yard or quadra, 
round which are the warehouses or store-rooms of 
the merchants, the apartments of the domestics, the 
stables, and other offices. Usually a piazza or por^ 
tico runs round the coui't, affording a complete shel- 
ter from the sun and rain. The centre is enlivened 
with a few trees, shrubs and flowers, or, in some 
instances, there is a fountain or reservoir of water. 
The roofs are in general flat and overhang the foot- 
paths, which are clean, and paved with large peb- 
bles. The city and suburbs, according to the esti- 
mate of my friend, contain about three thousand 
houses ; and the number of inhabitants, including 
Indians, is more than fourteen thousand. Being 
the residence of the Governor and a bishop's see, 
it is second in wealth and population to Guatemala 
alone. I observed eight churches, exclusive of the 
Cathedral, and several monasteries and nunneries. 
The markets are abundantly supplied with beef, 
pork, fish and fowls ; and all the varieties of fruit 
and vegetables produced in a tropical climate, or 
even in the more temperate regions. The climate 
is considered delightful, although occasionally vi- 
sited by tempests and heavy rains. The general 



1 

IV f 



- MODB OF LIVING* 225 

mode of living is luxurious. My allowance from 
the Government was four reales, or half a dollar 
per day, which was a great deal more than sulii- 
cient to enable me to live, in every respect, like 
the officers in the Cuartel, whose daily provision 
was as follows : — Shortly after daybreak half a pint 
of excellent chocolate or strong coffee, with a slice 
or two of bread ; about nine o'clock a breakfast 
of fish, flesh, or fowl, and sometimes all these ; to 
which was added an omelet, tortillas, and excel- 
lent wheaten bread, with claret or agua-ardiente : — 
about noon a soup composed of boiled beef and 
vegetables, and a saucer of sweetmeats, for those 
who chose them, ushered in a dinner consisting of 
the same materials as the breakfast, after which a 
cup of strong coffee pi-epares them for their siesta 
or afternoon's sleep, to which all then retired, the 
city, from that period until about fom* in the even- 
ing, being as quiet as at mjldnight. About nine 
supper was served, — thus ending the day, the 
principal business of which seemed to be eating, 
drinking, smoking and sleeping. The meanest 
persons smoke tobacco, although it is the dearest 
article in the place. I had no opportunity of see- 
ing the public walk, which I was told was a very 
pleasant place, situated at the north-west entrance 
to the city, and much frequented in the cool of the 
evening by all classes. 

On the fourth morning from my arrival, I again 
received orders to attend the Governor, who de- 
sired me to prepare to depart for Granada the fol- 
lowing day, under the same escort ; but, that I was 
not now to consider myself a prisoner, and might 
take my own time in travelling. His Excellency 
accompanied his instructions by a present of two 



226 DEPARTURE FOR GRANADA. 

doubloons. Expressing my thanks for his prompt 
justice and urbanity, I withdrew, gratefully im- 
pressed by his kindness and liberality. My Ger- 
man friend, who was to set off that evening for 
Realejo, also presented me with a little money, 
and an additional quantity of linen, — observing, 
that these articles were absolutely necessary to e- 
very tmveller, more especially to an Englishman, 
who could not journey comfortably, unless accom- 
panied by cleanliness and independence. This 
worthy man also gave me a letter to his correspon- 
dent at Granada ; and others to be forwarded, by 
way of Jamaica, to Europe. 

I found the sergeant at the Cuartel waiting fot 
me ; that he had received his final instructions, and 
was desirous of leaving Leon in the morning be- 
fore daylight, on purpose to arrive early at Puebld 
Nueva. I furnished him with the means of providing 
such things for the journey as he considered ne- 
cessary for our comfort. By allowing me to ride 
in advance of the party, when about to pass other 
travellers on the road, he saved me from much in- 
terruption and many annoying questions, — was ve- 
ry attentive to my wants, and studied my com- 
fort, both on the way to and from Leon, as much 
as circumstances would allow. 



CHAPTER XL 

DEPARTURE FROM LEON GAME, ScG. — PUEBLO 

NUEVO MONAGUA — POLITICAL STATE OF THE 

COUNTRY KINDNESS OF INYGOYEN RECROSS 

THE LAVA EFFECTS OF THE ERUPTION MAS- 

SAYA— -COLONEL SACASS A MEDICINE INDIAN 

PROCESSION MISSIONARIES ARRIVAL AT 

GRANADA— LAKE AND ADJACENT COUNTRY— 
EARTHQUAKES — EXACTIONS OF THE GOVERN- 
MENT ABUNDANCE OF PROVISIONS — VOYAGE 

TO SAN CARLOS, &C. 

Every thing being arranged for our departure from 
Leon, the sergeant brought me an excellent uorse, 
and we started before day-break. We soon over- 
took the soldiers who had preceded us on foot, 
the Governor's orders being, that, as •' Don Or- 
lando " was to travel slowly, horses or mules were 
not necessary for the escort. I promised to re- 
mount them at the next halting places, and they 
exerted themselves to keep up with us. 

The sergeant had provided a small fowling- 
piece, in lieu of the carabine he formerly carried, 
but he soon showed me that he was no sportsHian; 



228 



GAME See. 



he fired at three guams, each as lai^e as a turkej^- 
cock, but they merely liopped to another branch. 
Watching until theii' heads were close together, I 
brought the whole three to the ground at one shot, 
telling the sergeant that was the way the Patriots 
and Indians generally used their fire-arms. He 
crossed himself, and expressed much surprise. 
None of the wild deer came within reach of small 
shot, but we got more game of other kinds than 
we could carry, and a few Indian marksmen could, 
in these woods, find daily provisions for a regi- 
ment of men. We arrived at Pueblo Nueva a- 
bout nine o'clock, and I hung my hammock in my 
old quarters, while the sergeant went to the In- 
dian alcalde to whom we presented the game, and, 
in return, received an excellent breakfast. Our 
soldiers went in search of mides ; but the poor 
people being, in general, obliged to fmnish the 
troops gratuitously, none could be found, until it was 
kno\\Ti that the use of them would be paid for : — 
the three cost only six reales, or three quarters of 
a dollar, to Nagarotta, at which place we arrived 
safely in the evening. 

Wishing to amve at Monagua as early as pos- 
sible, we were on the road long before daybreak ; 
— we an'ived in good time at Matares — and next 
morning, by six o'clock, recrossed the high gi'ound, 
from whence we again had a most beautiful pro- 
spect of the country, and adjoining lake. My good 
friend the cura was from home, but his family re- 
ceived me with the greatest kindness and atten- 
tion ; refreshments were set before me, and when 
he arrived, he embraced and welcomed me with 
all the warmth of an old friend, expressing himself 



II 



POLITICAL STATE. 229 

much satisfied with the manner in which 1 had 
been received in Leon. 

At supper we had much conversation regarding 
the political state of the country ; and ahhough 
the cura expressed himself cautionr Jy, it was evi- 
dent he contemplated with pleasure, the change 
progressively taking place. Some of his friends 
having called to inquhe for him, readily joined in 
our conversation ; and, over a bowl of punch, a 
liquor I taught him to compound, reserve was soon 
banished from his convivial board ; he observed, 
that he hoped the day was not far distant when 
^ Monagua, and the Interior of Central America, 
would be better known to my countrymen, and 
every one seemed to speak freely of the state of 
the country, deplored the commercial and other 
restrictions under which they laboured ; and it was 
evident that the worthy cura, who is a native 
Creole, and his friends, wished well to the cause 
of independence, and anticipated a great, and cer- 
tain change in the political government of Central 
America, I ventured to explain, that although 
for some time I had confined my exertions entirely 
to commercial pursuits, I once commanded a vessel 
in the service of the Independents, and wished well 
to their cause. Some of the gentlemen present ex- 
pressed their hopes, that the trade would soon be 
more open ; that British goods of almost every 
description were much wanted ; that the towns in 
the vicinity of the Lakes of Nicaragua and Leon 
could consume and pay for a very large quantity ; 
and that, by ^ erseverance, I might then avail my- 
self of the knowledge I had acquired, to recover 
more than I had at present lost. The party broke 
T 7 



230 RECROSS THE LAVA. 

up about ten o'clock. In the evening I joined him 
in a ride through the town, which is pleasantly 
situated in a romantic vale on the borders of the 
Lake. The streets are wide, and intersect each 
other at right angles, forming squares of buildings 
similar to those of Leon. It contains six churches ; 
that of my conductor, and one or two others are 
large, and handsome, — the houses are in general 
two stories high, flat roofed, built of sun-dried 
bricks, and white washed ; they were, in comfort 
and an-angement, similar to the houses of Leon and 
Granada. I observed shops for the sale of wine, 
agua-ardiente, and other liquors. Bread, cheese of 
the country, dulces, or sweet meats, coffeCjand coarse 
brown sugar, were sold in almost every small house 
of the Indians. I found that my friend had to act 
the part of a magistrate as well as priest ; for on 
our return, an Indian and his wife came to state 
some grievance which they had suffered from a 
neighbom* of the cura, who immediately sent for 
the accused ; and, inquiring into the facts, admo- 
nished him to redress the injury, which he faith- 
fully promised ; and I was much pleased to ob- 
serve the respectful deference paid to his advice 
and admonitions, by both parties. As he had oc- 
casion to visit Granada in two days, after a day or 
two farther sojourn, I took my leave, upon a pro- 
mise that I should be his guest at Granada, where 
he had also a residence. We commenced our 
journey at the usual hour, three in the morning, 
and by six we once more crossed the stratum of lava 
.formerly mentioned, so that I had an opportuni- 
ty of confirming my former observation of its 
course. The neighbourhood of the high ridge 
over which we crossed, as also the low ground, 



1 



EFFECTS OF THE ERUPTION. 231 

presented evident appearances of tlie destruc- 
tive effects of this eruption, — being covered 
with an entire mass of scoria, pumice, and de- 
tached rocks, of severar tons weight. The vol- 
cano does not appear to be so elevated as those of 
Granada and Cartago.^ We spent so much time 
in viewing the effects of the eruption, and the 
beautiful appearance of the lakes and the adjoin- 
ing country, that we did not reach Massaya until 
late in the day. I was waited upon by the son of 
Colonel Sacassa, with an invitation to breakfast. 
This young gentleman, to whom I was indebted 
for the present of clothes and linen, when unwell, 
on my v»'ay to Leon, mentioned that his father 
was confined to his apartment, by severe indispo- 
sition ; and, as he understood every Englishman 
knew something of medicine, entreated I would 
prescribe for him. The Colonel's house was a 
handsome building, opposite to the principal 
church ; which, with the monastery, and Cuartel, 
or place d'armes^ formed one side of the square. 
I found the old gentleman in a dark, close, pent- 
up room, on the ground floor, in an English tent- 
bed, with thick cotton curtains, surrounded by 
every precaution to exclude the fresh air. When 
he held out his hand to welcome me, I found he 
was in a high fever : he lamented there was no 
medical advice to be had nearer than Granada, 
and complained of violent headach, and great pain 
in the back and loins. I advised him to lose not 
a moment in getting removed to an open and airy 
apartment ; take aperient medicines ; and get 
blood drawn : — and, if next day he was no better, 
to have a blister applied to his- stomach ; get his 
body mbbed with the pods of Cayenne pepper ; 



232 INDIAN PROCESSION. 

use the warm bath; and take spruce beer, or a 
beverage of lime-juice, water and sugar, seasoned 
with Cayenne pepper, to quench his thirst. It 
was with great difficulty I could persuade him of 
the utility and necessity of a free circulation of 
ah", but by the following day he felt great relief. 

His son, who was educating for the church, 
pressed me to spend tlie day with him. We walk- 
ed about the town, whicli is smaller than Mona- 
gua, but built nearly in the same manner, — plea- 
santly situated in a fertile valley, surrounded by 
plantations of cocoa, plantains, and vast enclosures 
of Indian corn. The detached group of moun- 
tains, amongst which is tiie " Vcica?i de Grana- 
da, " rise in majestic grandeur above the hills to 
the westward. 

Baring our walk, we met a number of Indians 
going in procession to a church. Before them 
was borne a huge crucifix, and an image, made of 
w^ood, which, I was told, was the representation 
of some idol they had formerly worshipped, which 
they were now going to deposit in the church. 
These neophytes had been formed into a settle- 
ment in the vicinity, under the direction of some 
Catholic missionaries, who resided with them, and 
who were endeavouring to bring them to peaceful 
and industrious habits. 

I remained at the Colonefs house that evening, 
and at my departure in the morning, received a 
letter specially recommending me to his son, the 
acting Governor of Granada. After a very plea- 
sant ride, the sergeant and I arrived in the subm'bs 
of that city, where he halted to breakfast, and 
wait the arrival of the soldiers, who travelled this 
last sta2:e on foot. ♦ 



CITY OF GRANADA. 235 

The whole distance by the route we travelled to 
and from Leon, as stated in the preceding account, 
may be computed at about one hundred and four- 
teen miles ; and from Leon to the Pacific is, as I 
was assured, and have the best reason to state, not 
above six miles. ^I wa§ told our route to Leon 
was not the most direct ; but, from the appearance 
of the country, and leading direction of the road, 
I am confident the difference cannot be greater 
than a few miles. We proceeded to the Governor's 
house, where, after reading his brother's letter, 
Don Cresantia Sacassa congratulated me on my 
safe return ; but informed me, that it was Don 
Miguel's instructions, that I should take up my 
abode at one of the Cuartels, out of which I was 
on no account to sleep ; but that in the day time 
I should be at liberty to go where I chose. That 
unless I could obtain a passage in one of the mer- 
chant bongos going to San Juan, with a cargo for 
the two schooners, I would have to proceed to 
San Carlos in the government boat, sailing on the 
first day of every month. I expressed myself sa- 
tisfied with these arrangements, and took posses- 
sion of a room at the barracks, by fixing up my 
hammock, and obtaining other accommodation ne- 
cessary for my comfort. 

The city of Granada is said to have been found- 
ed by Francisco Fernandez de Cordova about three 
hundred years ago. The population, including 
European Spaniards, Creoles, Mestizoes and pm-e 
Indians, cannot be estimated much lower than that 
of Leon. The principal public buildings, includ- 
ing the sumptuous parochial church, and the one 
dedicated to the I^ady of Guadaloupe in the grand 
T 2 



234 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

square, with others of minor importance, are, the 
Franciscan convent ; one of San Juan de Dios, 
witli an hospital attached to it; another of La 
Merced ; and three other convents, besides the bar- 
racks or cuartel in the parade. The situation of 
this city between the lakes, and its central posi- 
tion in respect to the Atlantic and Pacific, afford 
great facilities for making it the depot for the 
greatest commerce in South America, or perhaps 
in the Vv^orld. It is well built ; one side of the 
gi'eat square is chiefly formed by the principal 
church ; a large monastery and a convent make up 
the gTeater part of another side ; the guard-house, 
and soldiers barracks, a third ; and the principal 
shops in the town, front the church, and complete 
the square. The streets are for the most part 
wide, and paved with stone ; and, in some places, 
the footpaths are raised two feet above the level 
of the streets, and sheltered by the balconies and 
projecting roofs of the houses. Many of the 
houses are three stories high, and, as the streets 
intersect each other, form squares of buildings, the 
longest sides of which extend from east to west. 
The town stands on a'gently rising ground, which 
contributes much to its cleanliness ; and the 
principal streets are terminated by views of the 
hills in the neighbourhood, or mountains in the 
distance. The cross streets are narrower, but the 
houses in general are, like those of Leon, large, 
handsome, and convenient ; the apaitments lofty, 
and better furnished than is usual in Spanish 
towns. Granada is said to be celebrated for its 
cabinet ware, the w^oikmen possessing many beau- 
tiful kinds of wood. They aie obliged, however, 
to work with very inferior tools.— -good edge-tools 



COMMERCE, TRADE, &C. 235 

being much wanted. One of the most valuable 
pieces of furniture in the family room is generally 
a crucifix, and an image of the virgin and child, in 
a case, richly ornamented, and illuminated at night. 
There is a great variety of shops, for the sale of 
small wares, but no indications of a full supply of 
any thing like valuable goods. In the principal 
warehouses nothing was exposed in the windows, 
or otherwise ; every thing appeared private, and 
concealed, and the depositories were not thrown 
open as at the Havannah, Buenos Ayres, and Li- 
ma. I was given to understand that the principal 
trade was entirely in the hands of a few old Spa- 
niards, natives for the most part of Catalonia and 
Biscay, who contrived to have the offer of every 
cargo that arrived at San Juan : and their trans- 
actions were managed with'' such secrecy, as to 
preclude all chance of competition : — the native 
Creoles seldom or never receiving any notice of an 
arrival, until they saw the goods going into the 
warehouses, which, in appearance, almost resemble 
prisons, but are well stocked with the most valu- 
able productions of the country, such as indigo, 
cochineal, sarsaparilla, cocoa, hides, barks, &c. The 
greater part of the retail trade of the place is, on 
market and holidays, carried on by the Creoles and 
other natives of the country, whose shops, as I 
before observed, are numerous ; the commodities 
they vend, consist of a small assortment of dry 
goods and earthenware : — others, the places called 
pulperias, resemble the hucksters shops in Eng- 
land ; and, in these places are sold bread, cheese, 
agua-ardiente, pottery, glass, sugar, sweetmeats, oil, 
and a variety of small wares ; which are also 
vended by people in the public square, much in 



236 



LAKE AND ADJACENT COUNTRY. 



the manner of our travelling Jews and pedlars. 
The place seems poorly supplied with medicines, I 
and the priest generally administers to both soul 
and body. Close to the lake there is a pleasant pro- 
menade, much frequented in the evening by the 
principal inhabitants ; it commands a delightful 
prospect of the lake, and of the hattos in the 
neighbourhood. In the course of my morning ab- 
lutions, I noticed a visible difference in the height 
of the waters of the lake. I cannot undertake to 
affirm that it had a regular ebb and flow ; and 
believe the circumstance is owing to the influence 
of regular morning and evening breezes, impelling 
the waters of the lake in certain directions at par- 
ticular periods of the day and night ; and with 
gi'eater force at some times than at others. The 
Strand is generally covered by daybreak with lin- 
en. I have often seen one or two hundred wo- 
men and girls washing clothes in the moraing, so 
that whether in the evening, or moraing, a walk to 
the lake is a cheerful recreation. Near the Playa, 
or Embarcadero, some enterprising individuals had 
undertaken to build a vessel, which, from the ap- 
pearance of the fi'ame laying on the spot, I should 
suppose to have been intended to carry fifty or 
sixty tons. When she was nearly finished it was 
discovered that the ground had sunk, so. as to 
cause a rise, between the slip and the lake. The 
ground had afterwards been levelled, and every 
exertion made to launch the vessel ; but, so igno- 
rant were they of the use of mechanical powers, 
that, after several fruitless attempts, they were 
obliged to take the vessel to pieces. 

The markets, at Granada, are abundantly sup- 
plied with beef, pork, poultry, cheese, butter, and 



GAME, FISH, &C. 237 

milk from the farms in the neighbourhood, at a 
very reasonable rate ; and with a great variety of 
excellent fish, and vi^ater-fowl from the lake. 

The neighbom'ing country and forests furnish 
game in abundance ; wheat-flour is brought from 
Guatemala, and the northern provinces ; but the 
bread, used in general by the poor and middling 
classes, is made of Indian corn, which is also pre- 
ferred by many of the gentry. The common me- 
thod of preparing it is by making it into small 
cakes, called Tortillas ; — ^the grain is first put into 
a large earthen vesseL containing a strong lye of 
wood ashes, or lime and water, to soften it and 
take off the husk ; it is then put upon a stone made 
concave for the purpose, and bruised with a small 
stone roller, held firmly with both hands, and rol- 
led backwards, and forwards, until the corn is 
bruised to a fine paste ; it is then shaped into 
round flat cakes, and baked on an earthen pan, or 
flat iron plate ; the young women show great clean- 
liness and activity in preparing it, and, when well 
toasted, it will keep good for many months. 

The kinds of fish caught in the lake, in the im- 
mediate vicinity, are, the carvalhoe or carvally, tar- 
poin, snook, sturgeon, rock-fish, carp, mullet, bar- 
bel, perch, red and yellow snapper, calapaver, 
pike, grooper, and various others ; — one of them 
said to be a species of shark. Immense numbers 
of wild- fowl resort to its waters, amongst these 
are the large and small Muscovy duck ; the red 
and black-legged widgeon ; teal ; and many others. 
Snipe and curlew in great numbers frequent the 
islands, and low savannahs, on the borders of the 
lake ; and, being seldom molested, will suffer even 
the large bongos to approach so near, that they 



238 EARTHQUAKES. 

may be knocked down with a stick* Widgeon 
and teal are so numerous, that they at times ap- 
pear, when on the wing, to darken the air like a 
cloud. The terrapin, and hiccatee or river-turtle, 
are also very numerous ; and are to be met with 
near all the islands, and creeks ; — as also are 
shrimps, and a very large species of cray-fish. 
Although the temperature of Nicaragua is too 
warm for wheat, it yields, most bountifully, all the 
other articles appertaining to the climate, such as 
cocoa, indigo, cochineal, cotton, and various medi- 
cinal drugs, barks, and gums ; besides, grapes, and 
other delicious fruits : — the forests abound in the 
most valuable timber; and various rare plants, 
birds and animals, afford ample scope for the re- 
searches of the naturalist. 

Granada is sometimes subject to earthquakes : 
a slight shock was felt during my stay there. The 
day on the evening of which it took place was 
very close and sult^, without a breath of wind. I 
was in one of the small shops, the master of which 
generally supplied the officers' mess at the Cu- 
artel : and, resting myself at the moment in a ham- 
mock, smoking a cigar, and talking with the man's 
daughter ; although I did not feel any motion of 
the earth, my attention was suddenly roused by a 
burst of apprehension from all present. Some 
threw themselves on their knees ; others hastened 
to illuminate the image of the Virgin, and, on 
reaching the street, the whole population was hur- 
rying to the churches : the greatest anxiety and 
alarm depicted on every countenance : — many had 
formed themselves into processions, headed by their 
clergy ; some bore lighted tapers, crucifixes, and 
other insignia of the Catholic faith ; the Miserere 



CURA OF MONAGUA, 239 

was chanted in every street ; and " Santa Maria, " 
and " misero mio " issued from every mouth. I 
pitied people hurrying to places, in which, if the 
shocks bad been violent, they must have been over- 
whelmed with inevitable destruction ; but the 
shocks gradually became less, and I have frequent- 
ly felt them more severe during my residence in 
tropical climates. The whole night was spent in 
illuminations, prayers, and processions, and no ma- 
terial damage was occasioned. My friend the Cura 
of Monagua, who had been some time in Granada, 
asked me, on joining him and his family next 
morning, at the breakfast-table, in which of the 
churches I had taken refuge during the awful 
threatening ? I ventured to express my disappro- 
bation of that custom, and explained my reasons 
for preferring the shelter afforded by one of the 
small houses, the walls of which being of hardened 
clay, little danger could be apprehended, unless 
the earth opened ; and that, certainly, the spot un- 
incumbered by buildings was, in such circumstan- 
ces, the safest for an assembly of the clergy and 
people to propitiate the omnipresent Almighty; 
and that, on the other hand, to trust themselves in 
their heavy Gothic churches, appeared to be little 
better than tempting Providence. He observed, 
that there was some reason in my remarks ; but, 
that he considered it his duty to be there, even if 
he knew it was likely to be his destruction ; and 
that, in the day of calamity, it became him to be at 
his post, in the midst of his people. The more I 
knew of this worthy man, the more cause I had to 
admire him : so far from pressing me on the arti- 
cles of my faith, or seeking me to change from the 
tenets of the Protestant religion, he never for one 



240 



EXACTIONS OF THE GOVEKNMENT, 



moment gave me cause to doubt his universal be^ 
nevolence. 

On calling next day at the Governor's, I found 
him and all his household, assorting a large quan- 
tity of cocoa and indigo, which had that morning 
arrived from Nicaragua ; and they appeared too 
busy to think any thuig of the recent eaithquake. 
The principal people consider it no degradation to 
be employed in the meanest offices of trade. The 
produce of a farm, for instance cheese, butter and 
milk, were retailed under the immediate superin- 
tendance of the Governor's lady ; who, also, sold 
coarse cliecks, and some other articles, the manu- 
facture of the country. The Governor was su- 
perintendant of the customs, and revenue ; pass- 
ports weie requisite for persons travelling a dis- 
tance of thirty miles ; clearances were necessary 
for bongos crossing the lake ; all public business 
was transacted at the Governor's liouse ; every 
means seem to have been devised, by the Govern- - 
ment, to keep the trade of the country in its 
grasp ; and to extort money from the people by 
every possible method. All those in power were 
natives of old Spain, and there seemed to be little 
cordiality between them and the majority of the 
natives. 

I availed myself of the facilities afforded by the 
letter of recommendation, from Leon, to become 
acquainted with the nature of the trade of Grana- 
da, and the province generally. 

The articles in the greatest request, and which 
find a ready sale in Guatemala, Comoyagua, Le- 
on, Granada, Nicaragua, Cartago, and in the Cen- 
tral States generally, ere noted in the Appendix. * 
■* See Note V. 



CAUSE OF DETENTION. 241 

Most (tf the articles there enumerated, are such 
as I have found answer on the Mosquito Shore, 
and also on the shores of the Pacific, when en- 
gaged in the free trade. 

There seems no doubt that my detention in 
Granada was to give the schooners Flor del Mer, 
and Estrella, time to receive their cargoes and 
proceed to sea, before I should be able to leave 
the coast, or be in a situation to communicate with 
any of the Independent cruizers. ^The cargoes 
consisted of the choicest productions of the coun- 
try, collected and sent down in bongos, and these 
schooners, with theii' cargoes, would have made 
the fortune of any cruiser who might have captur- 
ed them. Contrary to the Governor's promise, I 
was not allowed to proceed in the bongo which 
sailed on the first day of the month ; — that boat 
was accompanied by others, having on board goods 
to complete the cargoes above named. About 
eight days afterwards I had a final interview with 
the Governor, who furnished me with the means 
of laying in provisions ; and, I obtained a passage 
in one of these bongos, belonging to traders or 
sutlers, who cross the lake to San Carlos with 
gi'oceries, liquors, tobacco, &c, at the time the 
soldiers there, and on the river San Juan, are re- 
ceiving their pay. These people open a temporary 
store for the sale of their commodities, and gene- 
rally realize a profit upon cocoa, coffee, &c. of one 
hundred to one hundred and fifty per cent. 

From the worthy Cura of Monagua and my o- 
ther friends in Granada, I had continued to receive 
the kindest attentions and demonstrations of re- 
gard. After bidding them adieu, 1 left Granada in 
u 



242 LAS 15LITAS. 

the boat mentioned, with two men and a woman, 
the joint owners, a padrone, and a crew of twelve 

Indians. 

We commenced the voyage about twelve o'clock, 
pulling for the islands called Las Blitas, where we 
arrived in the evening, and slept% These islands 
are composed ^f vast masses of rock, upon some 
of which there is much good soil covered with 
fruit-trees and others, of various desciiptions, much 
frequented by the guam, currassow, bill bird, co- 
quiricot, &c. on account of the hog plum, sapodilla, 
mamee, and other fruit, growing upon them. The 
water is here clear and deep, containing abundance 
of fish. Between these islets and Gi*anada, there 
is a small bay, said to be infested by water-snakes 
of the most venomous description, and on that 
account, little frequented. 

We left Las Blitas early in the moniing ; and, 
making sail with a light breeze across the lake, 
reached the small islands, close to the main, in 
the evening. We continued next day to coast 
along the shore, always going ashore on the main- 
land, or on some of the islands, to cook our vic- 
tuals. The water about these islands, at a dis- 
tance from the main, is clear and deep, with a 
rocky bottom, the islands, as already stated, being 
surrounded with large masses of stone. Others 
close to the shore are, however, flat, and some of 
them are inhabited by a few families of Indians, 
whose principal occupation is fishing and cultivat- 
ing small patches of Indian corn. The shore, to- 
wards the eastern side of the lake, is in general 
flat ; and has, in most places, a muddy bottom, 
for upon the mnd blowing strongly, the water 
became much discoloured, and we were then oblig- 



SAN CARLOS. 243 

ed to tak^ shelter on the leeside of one of the 
inlands, or to run the bongo into some creek on 
the main. Any elevation in this quarter is still 
however composed of rocks. At several of the 
farms we procured dried beef, and cheese, and at 
one place, a bullock, for which the padrone paid 
seven dollars, the common price being from eight 
to ten dollars. On the evening of the sixth day 
we landed at San Carlos. Immediately I waited 
on the Governor, who now received me politely, 
and mentioned that he had recovered some of the 
goods which had been plundered from my little 
vessel ; that these would be returned to me, and 
that my Indians were well, but that he had been 
obliged to keep four of them confined, to prevent 
their escaping, but that one was allowed to be at 
liberty, in succession, to provide additional com- 
forts for his companions. Brown came to me 
overjoyed at my safety ; but loudly complained that 
the Governor, and Salablanca, who had been promot- 
ed on account of the action with the Centinela, 
had used every means to induce them to criminate 
me as a spy for the Patriots, offering to give them 
clothes, send them safe home with presents, &c., 
but all to no purpose. Finding these efforts of no 
avail, they were then confined to the castle, as al- 
ready mentioned, and compelled to perform menial 
services for the officers. They were allowed only 
half rations, and the remainder of their subsistence 
was procured by the labour, or solicitations, of the 
one at liberty in the village— a line of conduct, 
than which none could have been better adapted 
to keep up their enmity to the Spanish name. 
Some of the Spaniards may have since suffered for 
it, — they were now allowed their liberty, with 



244 CONDUCT OF 

half a real a day for subsistence. I gave tliein 
money, supplied Brown with a good suit of clothes, 
and each of the others with a new shirt and 
trowsers ; bargaining with the woman who cross* 
ed the lake with me, for their provisions. This 
conduct seemed to surprise the Spaniards, who 
were not at all aware of the genuine worth of 
these men. They had been repeatedly told that 
I had been again tried as a spy, found guilty, ex- 
ecuted at Leon, and quartered ; and, till they 
heard from some of the Indian boatmen of my re- 
turn to Granada, they had given up all hope of 
ever seeing " Robert, " and were meditating how 
to make their escape. Still their fidelity to me 
had remained incorruptible ; and they now felt 
indignant at the impositions which had been at- 
tempted — saying frequently, " very bad lie, " " no 
good fashion, " and using similar expressions. 

Salablanca, the old commandant of the battery, 
seeing the turn my affairs had taken, now offered 
to render me all the assistance in his power to 
make my residence at San Carlos agreeable, and, 
my passage down the river as comfortable as pos- 
sible ; giving me also an invitation to reside at his 
quarters. The ladies of the Governor's family 
seemed glad I had returned in safety, and showed 
me great attention and kindness. 

I received, from the Governor, about three 
dozen of moscheats v/hich he had recovered ; with 
a small quantity of dry goods ; and I was per- 
mitted to dispose of them in the village. The 
moscheats cost me about forty-five shillings per 
dozen, and I sold them at from two to three dol- 
lars each ; the other goods produced me about one 
hundred dollars. On finishing this business I be- 



THE GOVERNOR. 245 

gan to prepare for my departure, by providing a 
sufficient stock of provisions, chocolate, rum, &c. 
for myself and my Indians ; two bongos with sup- 
plies of provisions, and a reinforcement of men for 
the defence of the river, being ordered shortly 
to proceed. 



CHAPTER XII. 

GUATEMALA — NICARAGUA INDIANS — POPU- 
LATION HOSTILE TRIBES — LAKE OF NICARA- 
GUA SPANISH POSTS ROUTE BY BLUEFIELd's 

RIVER — JOURNEY OF PATTERSON ATLANTIC 

AND PACIFIC CANAL NECESSITY OF FOREIGN 

LABOURERS UNITED STATES CONTRACT FOR 

CUTTING A CANAL GOLD MINES PASSAGE 

DOWN THE SAN JUAN MOSQUITO KINGS LET- 
TER INDIAN DARING PLAN OF REVENGE 

— ARRIVAL AT PRINZAPULKO — JOY OF THE IN- 
DIANS. 

PoNSETT, in his " Notes on Mexico " remarks, that 
Guatemala extends from about 8P 45' of west 
longitude, to 94°, and from 8° to 17'' north lati- 
tude. It is bounded on the west by the Intendency A 
of Oaxaca in Mexico ; on the N. W. by Yucatour ; ml 
on the S. E. by the Province of Veragua in Santa 
Fe de Bogota ; on the south and southwest by the 
Pacific ; and on the north by the Atlantic Ocean. 
The distance by land from Chillilo, the frontier of 
Oaxaca, to Chiriqui and. Veragua, is seven hundred 
leagues ; and the distance from sea to sea^ in no 



^POPULATION, &C. S^T 

|)lace exceeds one hundred and eighty leagues, 
nor falls short of sixty. Of the fifteen provinces 
into which it is divided, five are situated on the 
Pacific, five on the Atlantic, and five in the In- 
terior. 

The Province of Nicaragua, in 1823, was sup- 
posed to contain a population of 164,374. The 
district of Leon, besides the capital of the same 
name, contains the cities of Granada, and New 
Segovia ; and the towns of Nicaragua, Esteli, Al- 
coyapa, Villa Nueva and Massaya ; to which 
may be added Monagua, Matares, Nagarotta, and 
others of less note. 

The province of Costa Rica, the most eastern 
on the Atlantic side, was, at the same time, esti- 
mated to contain a population of 37,716. Be- 
tween Nicaragua and Comayagiia are the pro- 
vinces of Taguzagalpa, Tologalpa, and Matagalpa, 
peopled by Indians who have not been converted 
to the Christian religion, and who may be consi- 
dered entirely independent of the Spaniards, with 
whom they hold no intercourse. They are called 
indiscriminately Xicagues, Moscoes, and Samboes. 
There are also several other tribes inhabiting the 
country to the eastward and north-westward of the 
Lakes of Nicaragua and Monagua or Leon. A- 
mong which may be reckoned the Valientes or 
Indios JBravos^ the Chilibees, Tiribees, Wool was, 
Ramas, Cookras, Poyers and various others, who 
have zealously maintained their liberty, and a- 
mongst whom the Spaniards have not been able to 
establish themselves. All these tribes are favour- 
able to the British, and took the opportunity, on 
most occasions, of joining the Buccaniers, in their 
predatory excursions against the Spanish posses- 



248 LAKE OF NICARAGUv\. 

siona, particularly New Segovia, Realejo, Leon, 
Granada, and Nicaragua, with other towns near 
their territories — which they repeatedly plunder- 
ed, and sometimes burnt. A natural barrier of 
mountains on each side of the lake seems to be 
the boundary which separates these tribes from 
the Spaniards. It is difticult to ascertain the total 
number of each class — but the whole Indian po- 
pukition of Central America has been estimated 
at from eighteen hundred thousand to a million of 
souls. 

A great proportion of these Indians are still 
hostile to the Spaniards, and they consider the 
descendants of the Spaniards born in the New 
States as such ; w^ere they properly united, un- 
der one head, and their efforts combined, they 
are capable of giving serious annoyance to the 
new government of Central America. 

Inarras, * whom I have already quoted, says 
that the Lake of Nicaragua is " more than one 
hundred and eighty miles long, and nearly one 
hundred broad ; having almost every where ten 
fathoms water, with a muddy bottom, except 
along the shore, where there is a clear bottom, 
with an inexhaustible number of fine fish ; it is 
rendered extremely picturesque by the numerous 
small islands with which the surface is studded. 
His knowledge, however, both of the dimensions 
of the lake, and of the rivers that empty them- 
selves into it, is extremely limited ; and a mere 
reference to the chait, which accompanies his 
work, will convince the most casual observer, that 
it is full of the grossest errors ; in speaking of 
the " fortification " on the river San Juan, he 

* History of Guatemala. London, 182.5. 



SPANISH POSTS. 249 

seems to have been quite ignorant on the subject, 
and leaves it in doubt whether he means San 
Carlos, the beaten down castle of San Juan, or 
the battery at the harbour. My tedious voyage of 
six days along the shores of the lake, gave me an 
opportunity of landing in several places ; the land, 
as I have before stated, is in general low, and 
composed of luxuriant savannahs, but rises gra- 
dually in the interior. Except near the village of 
San Miguel, I did not perceive any river or con- 
siderable stream falling into the lake. My com- 
panions mentioned the names of several streams, 
but did not seem to be aware of any considerable 
river. San Miguel has some defences, doubtless, 
from fear of the incursions of the Mosquito and 
other Indians ; and it is at this point that I sus- 
pect the easiest communication with Bluefields 
River may be found. The Spaniards have also a 
small post or guard a few miles to the southward 
of San Miguel, at about thirty miles from San 
Carlos, and there is a similar post within seven or 
eight miles of the castle, in a situation low, but 
commanding a good view of the coast towards San 
Miguel and Trinidad. 

I have already, in a former chapter, hinted at 
the gTeat probability of an easy communication 
between the Lake of Nicaragua, and the Atlantic, 
by way of Bluefields River ; and as my attention 
had been forcibly drawn to that circumstance by 
the special manner in which I was questioned on 
that subject, by the Governor of Leon, I had be- 
come very desirous of learning something of the 
particulars of a visit which, I had heard, was paid 
to that city about twenty-five or thirty years ago, 
by a person named Patterson, in search of some 



S50 ROUTE BY BLUEFIELDS RIVER. 

male and female runaway negroes. I had heard 
that one of them, a girl at that time, was still in 
Granada, and had become the wife of the Englisli 
negro soldier — one of my conductors to and from 
Leon, and I went to her house for the purpose of 
ascertaining the foundation of the story. She told 
me that she was the daughter of one of the negroes 
belonging to Colonel Hodgson at Bluefields ; — 
that, when a girl, she had joined a party who had 
run away from the British settlers at Pearl Kay 
Lagoon ; that they went up Bluefields River, until 
they arrived at a stream whose course they fol- 
lowed for a short distance, and then passing through 
a pine ridge of no great extent, and crossing a sa- 
vannah, they, in a few hours after leaving Blue- 
fields River, arrived on the borders of the lake 
along which they walked, and shortly came to the 
town or village of Trinidad. They were kindly 
received by the authorities of the place, and sent 
to Granada. Their owners having heard of the 
route they had taken, drew np a memorial to the 
Spanish government and intrusted it to Mr Pat- 
terson, who, following the negroes, found his way 
across the savannahs to the lake, and from thence 
to the city of Granada, where he presented his 
memorial demanding restitution of the slaves. 

The Spanish authorities were surprised at his 
appearance by this unusual route ; but as the men 
had professed themselves converts to the Catholic 
religion, and been taken into the Spanish service, 
the authorities declined delivering them up, offer- 
ing, however, to pay Patterson a sum which they 
considered the value of the negroes ; but, having 
declined to enter into any compromise, and hav- 
ing, in the heat of argument, made use of some 



JOURNEY OF PATTERSON. 251 

improper expressions regarding the Spanish go- 
vernment, he was placed in confinement, and short- 
ly afterwards sent across the lake, and down the 
River San Juan to the harbour ; from whence, by 
the help of some Indians, he found his way home. 
Tlie woman, who now kept a small shop and was 
laundress to the Governor's family, told me the 
story of Patterson's disappointment very circum- 
stantially, and with great glee. I consider it of 
importance to notice this story, because it has 
given rise to gross misrepresentations regarding 
the practicability of rendering the river San Juan 
navigable ; and, because it confirms what had been 
told me by the Woolwa and Cookra Indians, liv- 
ing on the borders of Bluefields River, regarding 
a route by which goods might be forwarded to the 
Lake of Nicaragua otherwise than by the River 
San Juan, and I found persons in Granada who 
had formerly received goods, in a contraband man- 
ner, by this route. 

Pitman in his Work on the Practicability of 
joining the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by a Ship 
Canal, has the following quotation from Robin- 
son. * " About sixteen years ago an enterprising 
Englishman, who casually visited the River San 
Juan, examined the different passages over the 
bar, and discovered one, which, although narrow, 
would admit a vessel drawing twenty-five feet. " 
It is needless to say this enterprising Englishman 
was Patterson ; who, so far from having any op- 
portunity of examining " the diiFerent passages 
over the bar, " was closely, and jealously, confined 
until sent out of the country. 

* Robinson's Account of General Mina's ExpeditioH. 



252 



ATLANTIC AND 



In penising the narrative of this voyage and jour- 
ney, the reader will have attended to many of the 
natural obstacles which have to be encountered, if it 
should ever be attempted to form the much wished 
for communication between the Atlantic and Pa- 
cific Oceans through the*River San Juan and the 
Lakes of Nicaragua and Leon ; and the very in- 
accurate information which has hitherto been re- 
ceived in regard to their magnitude. ~ 

These obstacles are undoubtedly much more 
formidable than any writer on the subject has yet 
given out ; and although they may be overcome 
by a judicious application of English and Ameri- 
can capital, aided by the hearty co-operation of 
the Central States, the United States, and the 
Government of Colombia ; it is evident that the 
associations hitherto formed in England, and else- 
where, are totally inadequate to the end proposed ; 
and that they possess neither the capital, informa- 
tion, nor influence, requisite for even making the 
attempt in this quarter with the slightest chance 
of success. Admitting that the principal impedi- 
ment is to be found in the Rio San Juan itself, 
and from the erroneous accounts propagated by 
the elegant historian of the West Indies * and 
others, hitherto reckoned the easiest part of 
the undertaking, it must be evident that, tak- 
ing every advantage of the deep parts of the 
river, numerous locks and cuts will require to be 
carried along the banks of the river to overcome 
the shallows and rapids in its course. The har- 
bour is undoubtedly admirably calculated for an 
entrance to the canal, and there would not, I ap- 



Bryan Edwards. 



PACIFIC CANAL. 253 

prehend, be any great difficulty in deepening the 
bar, and making the river itself navigable, for large 
ships, as far as Serapiqui ; but, at a very short dis- 
tance above that place, the serious obstacles would 
begin to be felt ; and although it will requu'e works 
of very considerable magnitude to overcome the 
principal rapid at the Castle of San Juan, I do 
not consider these works likely to be either the 
most difficult or expensive. Itjs the necessity of 
overcoming the long shallows in the river, and the 
consequent extent of the side canals, and the a- 
queducts necessary for carrying them over streams 
falling into the river, that will require the greatest 
labour and expense. From the Lake the stream, 
forming the commencement of the river, descends 
over a rocky bottom with considerable rapidity. 
The fort of the eminence on which Fort San Car- 
los stands, and round the extreme end of the point 
that forms the outlet from the Lake, seems com- 
posed of solid rock, with, here and there, large 
detached masses of stone ; but, by cutting a chan- 
nel through the low ground behind the fort, thgre 
may perhaps be no great difficulty in constructing 
a safe entrance from the lake to the river, thereby 
avoiding all the hazard and difficulty presented by 
the abrupt nature of its bed, where it issues from 
the lake ; but, I consider the gieatest difficulty of 
all is, the absolute necessity which there would be 
for employing foreign labourers, unaccustomed to 
the climate, to perform the whole of the heavy 
work on the river ; for it must be very obvious, 
from what I have stated of the nature, habits, and 
disposition of the Mosquito and other Indians on 
the coast, that it would be in vain to expect any 

X 



254^ GREAT DIFFICULTY 

efficient assistance from them ; because, whatever 
temptation might he held out in point of wages, 
they are incapable of any continued effort of hard 
labour, and it is not at all probable that they would 
forego the comforts of their present easy and in- 
dolent life, to embrace one of severe exertion, 
more especially to benefit, as they would suppose, 
their inveterate enemies the Spaniards. 

The speculations of Robinson and other writ- 
ers, in regard to the facility of obtaining native 
labourers, are perfectly chimerical. If, however, 
foreign labourers were employed, the Indians, 
kept in good humour, might procure and fur- 
nish, at an easy rate, abundant supplies of pro- 
visions. 

With regard to materials for the construction of 
the various locks, &c. there would be at hand a- 
bundance of the fine timber, basalt, or whinstone 
rock ; as also brick clay, and perhaps freestone, 
although I did not perceive any of the latter on 
my passage up or down the river. 

Vessels once in the lake of Nicaragua, would 
find sufficient depth of water ; and, with the oc- 
casional assistance of a few steam vessels, would 
have no difficulty in proceeding from one end to 
the other. 

The obstacles, to be surmounted in forming 
a communication between the two lakes, are^ 
not very formidable. It is probable the natural 
channel, which, at one time, existed, i)as only been 
partially, or for a short distance, filled up ; and 
that a few miles of canal over the narrow isthmus 
w^hich separates the two lakes, will not be a work 
of great magnitude ; and that no greater difficulty 



OF THE UNDERTAKING. 255 

would present itself, although more locks might 
be necessary, in opening the communication from 
Leon down to the South Sea, the distance, as 
formerly stated, being only a few miles. 

The greater part of the work at these two last 
points might, through the influence of the local 
authorities, be performed by native labourers ; 
but I am satisfied, the greatest number of native 
and Creole labourers which the Central States 
could furnish, would be inadequate to the immense 
labour which would be requisite on the River San 
Juan. 

Perhaps, as I have formerly stated, a still better 
line of communication between the lake of Ni- 
caragua and the South Sea, may be found across 
the low land to the westward of the Island of 
Omtepec, in the Lake, into the Gulf of Papa- 
gayo : — The land at that point is undoubtedly 
neither elevated, nor the distance great. If I may 
be permitted to hazard another speculative opinion, 
on a subject so important, it would be on the pro- 
bability of finding a more eligible communication, 
between the Lake of Nicaragua and the Atlantic, 
by Bluefields River, near the route taken by the 
negroes already mentioned ; but I do this with 
extreme deference, and merely with the intention 
of indicating a point worthy of being examined. 

In the above remarks I have merely been de- 
sirous to correct several prevailing errors, which 
have long existed, regarding the topography of 
this interesting country : and, in the absence of 
any scientific guide, to add my mite to the great 
mass of information lately diffused regarding the 
New World. 

To say any thing regarding the manifold ad- 



256 GOLD MINES. 

vantages to be derived from a ship-commuuication 
between the two great oceans, is perhaps super- 
fluous, after the volumes ah*eady ^vritten on the 
subject. It may be remarked, however, that I 
have not yet heai'd of any plan upon a scale suf- 
ficiently grand, to insure to the world, all the ad- 
vantages of an undertaking so worthy the com- 
bined exertions of Europe and America. I hum- 
bly conceive that, to insure all the advantages of 
which a ship-communication, on a grand scale, is 
capable, it can only be executed under the sanction 
of all the great maritime powers ; and, that, to a- 
void jealousy and interruptions, it must be placed 
under the control of an inferior state, whose in- 
dependence should be guaranteed by the joint 
powers of both Europe and America. Without 
some such guard against the jariing interests of 
nations, and the mistaken policy which might be 
adopted by any powerful people having this canal 
within their control, its navigation would be con- 
stantly liable to interruption, and the immense be- 
nefits which ought to accrue from it, would con- 
sequently be lost to the world. * 

Should it ultimately be determined to follow 
the line of the Rio San Juan, the persons engaged 
in the undertaking would be benefited, and might 
ultimately defray a part of the expense of this gi- 
gantic undertaking, by working the gold mines to 
the right and left of the upper part of the river, 
near the Lake of Nicaragua. The mine on the 
north side of the liver, which is understood to be 
exceedingly productive, had, for some time, been 
abandoned by order, as I was informed, of the 



I 



* See Note VI. 



DYE WOOD. 257 

g-overnment, who were probably afraid its value 
might become known, and provoke the incm'sions 
not only of the Indian tribes, but also of the Inde- 
pendents, whose attempts to penetrate into the 
country they seemed particularly desirous to guard 
against. 

Those on the other side were still in progress 
of being wrought, although in a private manner. 
The quantity of gold found at these mines,_ and in 
the streams in the neighbourhood, was said to be 
very considerable, both in grains got by wavihing, 
and also in marcasite. * There is no doubt that 
the whole of this country contains auriferous par- 
ticles, and that, when skilful mineralogists have 
free access to its recesses, other mines of an equal- 
ly, or perhaps of a more valuable description, may 
be discovered. Having, how^ever, very slender 
pretensions as a mineralogist or engineer, I mere- 
ly throvv^ oat these hints for the consideration of 
persons of skill and research ; for I am persuaded 
that, in this enterprising age, the canal question 
will not be allowed to drop, as it did about one 
hundred and thirty years ago, but that it will be 
followed out, and ultimately brought to a happy 
result. 

Before leaving San Carlos, I may notice, as an 
instance of the quantity of dye wood which could 
be collected in the country, that upwards of three 
hundred tons of BrazUieto wood had, for some- 
time, been lying there, contracted for by an Ame- 
rican, who finding its transport down the river in- 
convenient, and being engaged in a more proSta- 

* See Note VII. 
x2 



258 PASSAGE DOWN THE 

ble trade, was supposed to hare abandoned his 
bargain, and the Governor was now using it as 
firewood. 

San Carlos has, for years, been made the recep- 
tacle or prison for felons, and vagabonds of all de- 
scriptions, who are sent from Leon, and the diffe- 
rent tov^Tis on the lakes. The landing place is 
round the point at some distance facing the vil- 
lage, and is the only spot clear of large detached 
rocks. Here the soldiers generally resort for the 
purpose of fishing, and are seldom unsuccessful. 

When I took leave of the Governor, Don Juan 
Blanco, he gave me a passport addressed to the 
commanding officer at the harbour of San Juan, 
authorizing me, as some compensation for my 
losses, to trade there at any future period : he also 
informed me that I should be at liberty to proceed 
from thence to the Mosquito Shore with the first 
Indian party who touched there, and that, it being 
now the month of October, I would find some of 
them returning home from the fishery. 

The bongo, in which we embarked, contained 
provisions for the port at San Juan, and for the 
garrison of the batteiy at the harbour : the other 
bongo carried a reinforcement of twenty men for 
these places. Our voyage the first evening ter- 
minated at the commencement of the shallow 
place where we had deposited our poles, in com- 
ing up the river. Here we made the bongo fast 
for the night ; and on the first appearance of dawn 
renewed our voyage, keeping generally in the 
strength of the current, which, in the shallow parts 
of the river, canied us down with great velocity. 
In the course of the morning we came to the prin- 
cipal fail, or rapid, at the old fort of San Juan ; 



RIVER SAN JUAN. 259 

and, keeping the centre of the stream, passed it in 
safety, although at an astonishing rate. Great ex- 
ertion was required to pull the bongos into the 
eddy of the current towards the landing place, or 
portage attached to the fort. We there landed, 
and disembarked the provisions intended for the 
place. Early on the following morning we renew- 
ed our passage down the river, keeping, as on the 
preceding day, in the strength of the current ; and 
the waters of the river being now considerably 
higher than when we ascended, we always found 
a sufficiency in the middle of the sti'eam, even at 
the most shallow parts of the river where islands 
intervened. 

We arrived in the evening at Serapiqui, whei'e 
I found a sergeant and three or four miserable 
looking fellows now stationed as a guard. 

There was no visible current in tlie Serapiqui 
branch of the river communicating with the Rio 
Colorado, which branch is wide, and appeared to 
be of considerable depth. 

On the first appearance of daylight, we left this 
place ; and, in the coui'se of the morning, were 
met by a courier in a despatch-boat from the com- 
mandant of the battery at the harbour. He was 
the bearer of letters from the Mosquito King, 
written in the Spanish language, to the Governors 
of San Carlos and Leon ; in which were demand- 
ed the instant release of Brown and his other sub- 
jects, and in case of refusal, he roundly threatened 
to commence an Indian warfare on all the Spanish 
settlements bordering on his territory ! The same 
person was also the bearer of letters for my- 
self, acquainting me with the purport of what 
had been written to the Government — one fr©m 



260 INDIAN PLAN 

the King himself, and another from my corre- 
spondent at Honduras : I was requested by the 
King jto return, as quickly as possible, to Cape 
Gracias a Dios, from whence he would get me 
conveyed to the Bay, and I could not but feel 
pleased with this spirited conduct of his Mosquito 
Majesty, which Brown explained to the other In- 
dians, and they seemed much pleased that their 
friends had not forgotten them. 

To give an instance of the spirit and disposition 
of these people, I may here mention, that, prior 
to our reaching Serapiqui, I had observed Brown 
to appear very thoughtful, and frequently conver- 
ing aside with the other Indians, who now and 
then eyed the packages in the boat, and also the 
Padrone and crew, with a peculiar expression. I 
was convinced the treatment they had experienced, 
and the loss of a whole season's fishing, had made 
a deep impression on their minds, and suspected 
that Brown was concerting some mode of retalia- 
tion or revenge. On hinting that his mind was 
occupied with some scheme or other, he asked me 
if I knew what was contained in the packages. 
" Only provision for soldier, " said I. " Bye ! 
Robert! no money to pay him?" — " No, " said 
I, " to my knowledge it was sent off some time 
before we left San Carlos, and I should like to 
know vv^hat you are thinking about. " After some 
communication with his companions, he told me 
that he and his comrades thought they might seize 
some small arms left in our boat, throw the pa- 
drone and rowers overboard, and, in the confu- 
sion, pull the bongo into the Serapiqui branch — 
secure the money and valuables, and make the 
best of their way to the mouth of the Colorado 



OF REVENGE. S61 

Iliver, or Boca de la Tortuga, where they would 
be sure to meet some of their countrymen, with 
whose assistance they could set the Spaniards at 
defiance. He pointed out that the other bongo 
with the soldiers was always a* considerable dis- 
tance a-head of us — that there might still be some- 
thing of value in the boat, and that only the pa- 
drone and ourselves were in the after part of it — 
80 that, with my concurrence and assistance, it 
could easily he done. 

I represented to him, that under all the circum- 
stances, it was " Not good " for mere revenge ; — 
that we could only get the boat and provisions, 
which were of no use to us. I pointed out the 
sergeant and his guard at Serapiqui, but he made 
light of them, saying, that with " the bush, his 
musket, and moscheat, " he could finish them with- 
out assistance ; and, notwithstanding my disappro- 
bation, it was only the consideration that the other 
bongo, with the soldiers, might pull after them, 
that prevented their attempting to execute their 
plan ! 

On the afternoon of the third day we amved at 
the fort. I do not think we were more than thirty- 
six hours in motion, descending the river, and I 
am convinced that the Indians could ascend to the 
lake in one of their common dories, with great 
ease in three days; and, would come down in 
less than half of that time. The commandant at 
the battery received me politely, regretted that I 
had been so long detained at Granada and San 
Carlos, which had been requested by those inte- 
rested in the two schooners, who were still suspi- 
cious I might be in communication with the Inde- 
pendent cruisers : — that for fear of being again at 



262 PRIXZAPULKO. 

tacked in the harbour, the garrison had been aug- 
mented ; but that the vessels had sailed some time 
ago, and were now either in port, or in the hands 
of their enemies. 

The day after we returned to the harbour, some 
Mosquito men arrived from the Boca de la Tortuga. 
They had heard of our seizure, and, in common with 
all the other Mosquito men, had orders from the ad- 
miral to furnish me, on my reappearance, with all 
things necessary to enable me to reach the Cape 
without delay, there being " a King's order," to 
supply provisions, men, horses, dories, &c. ; and 
so eager were they to comply with this order, and 
hear our adventures, that they immediately pro- 
ceeded for the Kama settlement, without wait- 
ing to kill manati, according to their first inten- 
tion. Accordingly, after taking another view of 
the place where I had so narrowly escaped death, 
and having again viewed tjie entrances to the ri- 
ver in as careful a manner as prudence would ad- 
mit, I embarked with these Indians, and, at the 
Rama settlement, was received by Pedro, the chief 
man, with great kindness and attention. He fur- 
nished a large canoe to convey us to Bluefields, 
and from thence to Pearl Kay Lagoon, where we 
were welcomed with great rejoicing, it having been f 
reported that I had been put to death, and tlie ' 
Indians sold as slaves. At this place I parted 
with the Ramas, and Scipi, the headman, gave us 
a canoe up the lagoon to the harbom-, within eight 
miles of the gi-eat river ; we walked from thence 
to Drummer's, who provided us with horses, and 
on the following day, we reached Prinzapulko the 
native place of my Indians. By some means or 
other our approach had been made known, and 



JOY OF THEJNDIAN)^. 263 

before we had well entered the savannah leading 
to the settlement, we were met by a great many 
of the people, who showed the most lively joy at 
the safe return of their friends, thus, as it were, 
restored from death. Brown and his lads were 
pulled from their horses, and almost devoured by 
the caresses of their friends and relations, who 
shed tears of joy at their safe return, venting, at 
the same time, execrations against the Spaniards ; 
and I could not help sJmddering when I thought 
what might have been my fate, if, through any ne- 
glect of mine, these people had perished, and I had 
afterwards fallen into the hands of tlieir relations. 
I rode leisurely forward towards the King's house, 
but was soon rejoined by Brown, and by Para the 
headman, with other elders, who, having been 
made aware of the anxiety I had evinced for the 
safety and comfort of my companions, attributed 
their deliverance to my exertions, looked upon me 
as a true friend, and now showed me every mark 
of respect and kindness. They had, for some 
weeks past, contemplated an expedition against 
some of the Spanish settlements nearest to them, 
with the view of seizing as many Spaniards as 
possible, to be held as hostages for the safety of 
Brown and his companions— made many inquir- 
ies regarding the strength of the Spanish posts, 
and a mishla drink being prepared, we spent the 
evening of our return in mirth and rejoicing. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



1 



GENEROUS CONDUCT OF THE INDIANS THEIR 

ACCOUNT OF LORD NELSOn's EXPEDITION 

JOURNEY TO CAPE GRACIAS A DIOS SIZE AND 

VALUE OF MAHOGANY, &C MOSQUITO MEN 

CRUELTY OF BARRAS — KINg's TOKEN VOYAGE 

TO BALIZE RACON^ — VISIT TO BLACK RIVER 

KHARIBS AND KHARIB BREAD ^^SETTLEMENTS 

HISTORY AND CHARACTER OF THE KHARI- 

BEES POYER COUNTRY ISLANDS OF GUAN- 

AJA — ROATAN — STORMY PASSAGE ACROSS THE 
BAY OF HONDURAS. 

During the few days I remained at Prinza- 
pulko settlements, the headman earnestly entreat- 
ed that I would determine on settling entirely 
amongst them, assured me that if I did so and be- 
came indentified as one of their tribe, they would 
not only defend me to the last man, but that I 
might command such a trade, through their means, 
both on the coast and in the interior, as would in a 
few years make me wealthy. Although my connec- 
tion at the moment prevented me from listening 
to their proposals, I had no doubt of their feasibi- 
lity. I stated to Brown and his companions, that, 
by the loss of my goods, vessel, &c., I was depriv- 



LORD nelson's EXPEDITION. 265 

ed of the means of remunerating them at present 
for the time they had lost, and the distress they 
had suffered ; hut I divided the remainder of my 
money among them, reserving harely as much as 
would pay my expenses to the Bay of Honduras. 
At first they not only refused remuneration entire- 
ly, but, to my surprise, their friends told me that 
they had reserved a part of the tortoise-shell in- 
tended for me before they heard of my seizure, 
that it was now entirely at my service, and that I 
might pay for it hereafter when I had recovered 
my losses. Moreover, although Brown and his 
Indians had, through my misfortunes, lost an en- 
tire fishing season, they generously insisted, upon 
paying over to their countrymen, the money they 
had just received from me, on account of this shell 
— a trait of character I might have in vain looked 
for among the Mosquito-men : But it must be kept 
in mind that these Prinzapulko Indians are of the 
genuine unmixed breed, and that, in all my visits 
to them, and in every transaction, I had found 
them just, upright, and honourable in their deal- 
ings. 

Brown accompanied me to Cape Gracias a 
Dios ; and as the wet season had set in early, and 
with uncommon violence, we kept the inner pas- 
sage, calhng at Brancmans and at the residence of 
Governor Clementi. 

At the former place I again saw several of the 
old Indians who had been with Lord Nelson 
when he ascended the River San Juan. They 
uniformly agreed that that expedition had been 
undertaken at an improper season of the year; 
that they had been restricted in their mode of act- 



266 CAPE GRACIAS A DIGS. 

ing, and obliged to conform to habits, discipline, 
and diet, wlitch dispirited them. Disease, discon- 
tent and disappointment were the consequences, and 
the enterprise was abandoned, after a partial suc- 
cess. 

Our recent seizure suggested many inquiries 
regarding the Spanish settlements on the Lake of 
Nicaragua; and from the confident manner in which 
they spoke of penetrating to the Lake, I have no 
doubt that these people, properly commanded, 
would, at any time, when a fair opportunity offer- 
ed, attempt to lay these settlements under contri- 
bution. 

I arrived at Cape Gracias a Dios in the latter 
end of October, and was received by the King 
with every mark of attention. He expressed 
much satisfaction at my safe return; explained 
the measures he had taken to assist me, and seem- 
ed pleased that his letters had been so far attend- 
ed to. I agreed, at my departure, to take charge 
of two very large dories, which he was desirous 
of sending to the British settlement in the Bay of 
Honduras, to convince the merchants there of the 
extraordinary size, and excellent quality of the 
timber which could be procured in his country. 
These boats were each cut out of a single tree, 
one mahogany, the other cedar ; measuring about 
thirty-five feet in length ; nearly six feet in breadth ; 
and above five feet in depth. * 

I have already given some account of the dis- 
position and propensities of the Mosquito men, 
and, before taking leave of them, shall add some 
remarks regarding their manners and customs. 

They do not seem to possess, any distinct idea, 
of a future state of rewards and punishments 
* See Note VIII. 



INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. 267 

whatever others assert who may have put the 
question, and received a different answer. I need 
scarcely add, that it is only by living with a peo- 
ple, and mixing familiarly among them, at all 
times and seasons, tliat their genuine sentiments 
can be discovered. They are, nevertheless, like 
all ignorant people, exceedingly superstitious, and 
believe firmly in the appearance of " duppies " or 
ghosts, of which they are very much afraid, attri- 
buting their appearance to some malignant design, 
or evil purpose. Many of the Mosquito-men dare 
scarcely venture out of their houses at night, with- 
out a companion, for fear of those ideal spirits. 
The mind of King George Frederick, was so imbued 
with this superstitious dread, that I have repeat- 
edly seen him terrified to pass the threshold after 
sunset. 

Their great evil spirit is the " woolsaw " or 
devil, who, in their opinion, by his malign influ- 
ence, destroys their crops, spoils their fishing, and 
does them other very grievous injuries. To pro- 
pitiate this evil spirit, is a part of the Sookeab 
man's business ; and it is not the least profitable 
part pf it. 

A belief in witchcraft, and the power of Obeah 
practices, seems also to have got firm possession of 
the minds of the Mosquito-men ; and to these are 
atti'ibuted many of the cures, which, as surgeons 
and physicians, the Sookeah men perform. As a 
proof of this, I need only relate one instance, 
Frank, a negro slave, formerly belonging to Co- 
lonel August, had run away from Balize, and 
, had been received at Patook by old Jack, a ,per- 
son formerly mentioned. Frank had acquired some 
knowledge of the treatment of a particular com- 



268 INDIAN 

plaint, caught by both General Robinson and Bar- 
ras, at Honduras. Barras was cured, but Robin- 
son, from previous neglect and obstinacy, became 
80 exceedingly ill that, after undergoing a surgical 
operation at Balize, he died. About that time a 
son of Barras, who succeeded Robinson as general, 
being ill, the regular Sookeah man maliciously de» 
Glared that the Negro Sookeah's powers being 
strongest, he could not, on account of the Negro's 
interference, save the child ; upon this Frank was 
sent for, but the child died, and, immediately after 
the funeral, Barras came with a strong party of his 
adherents to Patook, and, seizing the Negro, "deter- 
mined, in spite of the poor fellow's protestations of 
innocence — to put him to the proof. He was 
bound hand and foot, and thrown into the river, 
but, by great exertion and presence of mind, he 
contrived to keep himself from drowning. He 
was then taken in a canoe to a deeper part of the 
river, but, still contriving to keep himself afloat, he 
was declared guilty, and being fastened to a rope f 
with weights appended to him, he sunk to lise no | 
more alive. Old Jack afterwards dragged out the ' 
dead body and charitably buried it. Bairas after- 
wards accused Old Jack of Obeah practices, an*- 
noying both Negroes and Kharibees by driving 
away their cattle, seizing one of Old Jack's sons 
as a slave, and other such acts of oppression — that 
until the King put an end to them for the moment, 
they contemplated leaving their plantations, held 
ever since the English evacuated the place, and 
giving themselves up as slaves to the descendants 
of their former owners. 

The method of preparing mishlaw drink, al- 
ready described, will remind the reader of tlie 



SUPERSTITIONS. 269 

Otaheiteans, and other South Sea isknders ; and 
a similarity of customs may also be noticed in the 
burial of the dead. The body is buried in some 
pleasant part of a savannah, and a hut erected over 
the grave, several earthen jars with water, and also 
fruit and other provisions are lodged in the hut, 
and to keep up the supply for months, nay some- 
times for years, is considered a sacred duty. Ano- 
ther system is to consider the house in which there is 
a sick person tabooed^ if I may use that expression : 
— for instance, the last time I passed that of the late 
General Robinson, I was specially prevented from ap- 
proaching near to it, and obliged to make a consi- 
derable circuit to leeward ; — I argued that it 
would be better to keep to the windward of the 
house, but that was strictly prohibited, because, by 
going on that side, we might kill the sick man by 
intercepting, or " taking away his breath." Their 
demonstrations of grief for the death of a relation, 
are not only exceedingly violent in the first in- 
stance, but are kept up for a very considerable 
period in a peculiar manner, sometimes for years, 
especially if the dead person's family is beloved in 
the settlement. 1 have frequently, in the middle 
of the night, heard some female relation of the 
deceased commence a sort of low melancholy howl 
or lament, enumerating the real or supposed good 
qualities of the deceased, aiid the regret of his 
friends for his loss ; the females within hearing 
chime in with this doleful chant, which, increas- 
ing in loudness, spreads through the whole settle- 
ment, and in the silence of the night has a very 
mournful effect. When these sounds were once 
fairly set agoing, it became useless to attempt 
Y 2 



270 KING i> TOKEX. 

sleeping any more that night, as they generally 
continued until daylight. Christmas is universally 
observed all over the Mosquito Shore, by both 
Indians, Samboes, and Kharibees ; but for no other 
reason that I could ever learn, except that it was 
" English fashion, " and happens at a time when 
it does not interfere with their fishing and other 
pursuits. They in general apply to the traders 
sometime beforehand to know the number of days 
which must elapse ; and, to keep an account of 
these, they have recourse to the knotted cord for- 
merly alluded to. The principal men send pre- 
sents of rum, &c. to the King, which enables him 
to gratify fully their drunken propensities, and as 
they come from the most distant settlements, and 
none of them appear empty handed, the houses 
are generally crowded to the door, and there is 
for several days a constant scene of intoxication. 

In travelling along the Mosquito Shore, it is cus- 
tomary for the King to give any friend of his who 
is a stranger, or travelling specially '•' on King s 
business, " a token, by producing which, all the 
King's people readily assist him on his journey. 
This token is sometimes a gold-headed cane, a spy- 
glass, or any other article known to belong to him, 
Gn one occasion I obtained a sabre as a King's to- 
ken, but I seldom had occasion to use any thing of 
that sort, being known on the coast ; and although 
I always offered some slight remuneration, for pro- 
visions and assistance, such payment w^as in many 
instances peremptorily refused, especially after it 
was known that I had been seized by the Spji« 
niai'ds, and lost so much property. That circum- 
stance alone seemed sufficient to entitle me to 
^yery accommodation gratis : — for instance at Ku- 



VOYAGE TO BALIZE. 211 

kari, when I latterly visited that place, I found only 
one old man with his wife and children, the other 
people having moved up to their plantations in the 
interior to await the termination of the rainy sea- 
son, — yet these people insisted upon killing their 
last fowls to give me " a good belly-full, " and un- 
til they have a plain declaration from their guest 
to that effect, they never cease insisting that he 
must continue to eat. 

The large dories, formerly mentioned, being put 
in order for the passage to Balize, and a crew of 
ten expert Indians appointed to each, with a plen- 
tiful supply of provisions, I took charge of the one 
made of cedar ; and the other, of mahogany, was 
intrusted to Racon, a Mosquito man, acquainted 
with the navigation of the coast, and with the dif- 
ferent kays and shoals in the bay, — we were ac- 
companied by other Mosquito-men in canoes with 
various articles for sale at Balize, upon the value 
of which 1 was to have a commission. 

We left the Cape about midnight with the 
land-breeze, by the help of which, and the use of 
our paddles, we arrived off False Cape before the 
eea-breeze set in, which blowing fresh, and well to 
the eastward, conveyed us at a great rate down the 
coast. Towards evening when the breeze began 
to fall off, we stood, close in to the land, and in 
the morning considered it prudent to run over the 
bar at Black River, to endeavour to procure a 
compass from some of the new settlers. We 
found these people in good spirits, and in hopes of 
being soon joined by emigrants daily expected 
from England. — I here met with two chiefs of the 
neighbouring Kharibs, one named Big, the other 
J-.ittle Louis, the former of whom had, with some 



272 KHARIB BREAD. 

of his people, been assisting the settlei-s to erect 
houses, and clear ground, and enable them to se- 
cure a good crop of early provisions. I promised 
to meet these men at their principal settlement ; 
and Mr Warren, and Colonel Gordon, having fur- 
nished me with what I wanted, we took advantage 
of the land-breeze in the evening, and again re- 
crossed the bar. We ran down the coast to one of 
the principal Kharibee settlements, about twelve 
miles from Black River, were received with great 
kindness, and readily furnished with as many fowls, 
and as much fiuit, Kharib bread, and other pro- 
visions, as we chose to have, for which they would 
scarcely accept any remuneration. The method 
of preparing this bread, a considerable quantity of 
which is sent to Balize, and other places for sale, 
is as follows : — Having selected from their extensive 
plantations, some of the largest and finest cassava 
roots, they are carefully skinned and washed ; then 
grated upon large tin graters, procured for that 
purpose from the traders ; the substance is then 
w^ashed in clean water, which is frequently shifted 
and run off, to free the cassava, which is now of a 
brownish colour, from a strong acid liquor, said to 
be poisonous ; the whole mass, when sufficiently 
whitened, is put into a long bag or basket, general- 
ly made of the spathes of a particular sort of tree ; 
this basket is placed in a perpendicular position, 
between two posts ; and, by the application of a 
lever, every drop of moisture is pressed out ; the 
farinaceous substance is then dried in the sun, 
and either kept for use as a substitute for flour, or 
made into round cakes, of eighteen or twenty in- 
ches in diameter, and about a quarter of an inch in 
thickness, toasted upon thin iron plates, over a 



li 



- KHARIB SETTLEMENTS. 273 

clear five of wood-ashes. When properly prepar- 
ed', these cakes will keep good for months, and, 
when new, taste pleasantly, and are a strong nour- 
ishing food. The flour is also used in hot water 
as gi'uel, made more or less thick, seasoned with 
salt and Chili pepper ; or, sometimes, eaten with 
sugar-cane syrup. 

These Kharibees, or Caribs as they are usually 
called in Europe, were originally natives of the 
Leeward Islands, but having become troublesome 
to the Government of St Vincents, were, some- 
time ago, banished from that Island, and conveyed 
to Roatan or Rattan, an island in the Gulf of 
Honduras, and means afforded them for forming 
a settlement there : — they were supplied with 
clothing ; and a large vessel containing provisions, 
agricultural implements, and other stores, was 
placed, in a secure harbour of the island, entirely 
^t the disposal of their chiefs. Grieved at their 
banishment from St Vincents, and careless of life, 
they improvidently suffered the store-ship to sink 
at her anchors, and thus lost the greater part of 
every thing provided for their future comfort. Be- 
ing visited by the Spaniards, from Truxillo, many 
of them went to that place, and built a village to 
the westward of the town. As their liberty had 
been guaranteed, many of them entered the Spanish 
service, under subalterns appointed from their own 
tribe ; and, at present, they are the most numerous 
part of the population of Truxillo. 

Some of them, however, who were at first discon- 
tented with their situation, emigrated from thence, 
and from Roatan, to the Mosquito Shore, where 
they have two principal settlements; one of them 
near the Great Rocksj about twenty miles to the 



I 



274 HISTORY AND CHARACTER 

westward of Black River, the other near Cape 
Cameron. The Mosquito King having given them 
all the encouragement in his power, they extended 
a chain of small settlements as far as Patook. But 
by the oppressive conduct of the late chief, Ro- 
binson, and his successor Barras, they have for the 
most part retired, and concentrated themselves to the 
northward of Black River, where they are rapidly 
increasing in' niDiibers, and now bid defiance to 
their enemies. Their houses are built more neatly 
than those of the Mosquito-men, and have an air 
of greater comfort and independence. Each house 
has its small plantation attached to it, kept in very 
neat order ; they had assisted the few settlers at 
Black River in erecting houses and clearing ground ; 
but these settlers were not possessed of sufficient 
capital to turn the labours of these men to farther 
account. Louis, one of their headmen, informed 
me, that they never interfered with the Indians, 
by intermarriages or otherwise ; and, whatever 
their ancestors of St Vincents may have been, they 
are now honest and industrious. They are not so 
expert, as the Indians, at striking fish, or with the 
bow and aiTow ; but, with the cutlass, they are 
equal to the Valientes ; and with muskets, of which 
every Kharibee has one, they excel all the Mos- 
quito-men and Indians. Their settlements are in 
general close to the sea-shore ; they cultivate rice, 
cassava, sugar cane, &c. and have abundance of 
hogs, ducks, turkeys, and other small stock, which, 
with considerable quantities of the bread already 
mentioned, they convey for sale to Truxillo and 
Balize. At the latter place they hire themselves, for 
several months at a time, to the mahogany and 
logwood cutters of the bay, and work with the 



OF THE KHARIBEES. 275 

regular woodmen. These people's ancestors were 
the last unremoved descendents of the race which 
occupied many of the Islands on the Carribean 
Sea, at the time of their discovery by Columbus ; 
considerably modified, however, by their mixture 
with the Negroes. 

They are in general of a dark red colour ap- 
proaching to, and often not easily distinguishable 
from black ; they have the short curly hair of the 
Negro ; but are remarkably clean skinned, well 
made, active, and vigorous. Their features are 
agreeable, particularly those of the young people ; 
and I never could perceive any of that malforma- 
tion of the head mentioned by some writers in 
their description of the Kharibees of the Orinoco. 
These latter, however, together with several other 
tribes inhabiting the banks of that river, the Canra, 
and Cum ana, who are said to be marked not 
only by that peculiarity, but also by superior size, 
and strength, were a different people, generally at 
war with the red men of St Vincents, and the 
other Leeward Islands. The country behind their 
present settlements is fertile, hilly, and well water- 
ed ; having several considerable rivers and streams, 
on the banks of which are abundance of the finest 
mahogany, dyewoods, sarsaparilla, and other valua- 
able natural productions of the soil. The Poyer 
hills, called by the Spaniards Sierra de la Cruz, 
come down almost to the sea-shore. 

We left the Kharibees in the evening, and from 
the Great Rocks stood over for Bonacca or Guan- 
aja, a small island discovered in 1502 by Colum- 
bus on his fouith voyage, when he had his first 
interview with the natives of the continent. We 
readied this island early on the following morning, 



276 ISLAND OF ROATAN. 

and landed opposite a watering place in an excellent 
harbour on the south side ; the beach, above high 
watermark, was thickly covered by cocoa nuts ; 
and near the watering place, innumerable tracks 
of the wild hog. The island contains hills of con- 
siderable elevation, thickly covered with trees ; 
and it is said to contain beds of limestone, and 
some ores of z;inc. From the east end of Bonacca 
to the small island of Barbaratte, there is an un- 
connected chain of reefs and patches of rock, some 
with deep channels betwixt them, and others with 
not more than eight or ten feet of water which is 
so clear, that we never lost sight of the bottom, 
and frequently saw large shoals of fish sporting 
about. We landed on Barbaratte, which is 
thickly overgrown with prickly plants and thick 
underwood, on the borders of which I found 
three or four sorts of wild grapes. Our fishers 
procured a large green turtle, and caught some 
very fine fish ; in the evening we pursued our 
voyage, running along the remaining part of Bar- 
barratte and the small Island of Moratte, towards 
the island of Roatan. 

Roatan is about thirty miles long, and eight or 
nine in breadth; the land is moderately high, covered 
with wood, except at the west end, where there 
are some savannahs on which mules and other 
cattle used to be raised. This beautiful island has 
an excellent harbour, easily defended ; it was once 
in possession of the English, who erected battenes 
completely commanding this harbour, and marked 
out a space at its end for the erection of a town. 
The woods abound in deer, wild hogs, gibeonites, 
pigeons, with millions of parrots and other birds, 
many of them excellent food, and the whole coast 



ISLAND OF UTILA. 277 

swarms with fish and turtle, both green and 
hawksbill* The English withdrew their troops 
from it at the time they abandoned the Mosquito 
Shore, and owing to their liability to attacks from 
the Indians and others in those troublesome times, 
none of these fine islands are now inhabited. 

From Roatan the Island Utila is visible ; and 
after a short run we landed at a low beach at the 
west end, where the water was perfectly smooth. 
The soil of all these islands is rich, and well a- 
dapted for the cultivation of cotton, coifee, &c* ; 
and the natural productions of each are similar. 
Innumerable flocks of parrots and pigeons were 
flying about ; and cocoa nuts were so very plenti- 
ful, that whole cargoes could be procured with very 
little trouble. 

We left this island on the second day, but had 
scarcely got clear away from the reefs, which we 
did before sunset, when we experienced a tremen- 
dous swell from the north-east ; and, notwith- 
standing that we had a considerable quantity of 
ballast on board, together with the ten Indians 
and myself, I found our vessel too light to make 
a true course. In the night it blew a heavy gale^ 
and although the mahogany craft kept to wind- 
ward much better than our cedar vessel, she was 
constantly shipping seas ; and on that account was 
obliged to bear away, and follow in our wake* 
During the night we carried away our mast, and, 
when again getting it up, we shipped a sea that 
nearly filled us, and must have sent any ordinary 
boat to the bottom. 

The greater part of the Mosquito men imme- 
diately jumped overboard to lighten the vessel, 



278 STORMY PASSAGE ACROSS 

while the remainder promptly employed' them- 
selves in heaving out the water, using their hats, 
calabashes, or whatever else was readiest for that 
purpose. During this operation we kept the boat 
before the swell, the men overboai'd held by the 
gunnels until we were ready to readmit them, and 
they again made sail with as much fearless ala- 
crity as if nothing unusual had occurred. In the 
morning we found ourselves close to Glover's Reef, 
upon which there were dreadful breakers ; but, as 
the dawn approached, the wind moderated, and 
we got round the south end, into smooth water. 
Racon and his crew had m.uch difficulty to keep 
the water out of their dorie ; and ours, although 
not so steady in the sea, was, upon the whole, 
the most safe ; as she would not only have float- 
ed, but borne a considerable weight, when full of 
water. The smaller canoes had kept more to 
windward, and got safe in by the Tobacco Kay 
Channel, without the least damage. I had a good 
opportunity, during this passage, of judging how 
far the Mosquito-men could be depended upon in 
bad weather ; and I formed a very favourable opi- 
nion of them as boatmen. They were always 
ready to obey orders, — never seemed to lose their 
presence of mind, — and I have no doubt that, 
with proper instructions, and experience in ma- 
naging larger vessels, they might, in theii* own 
seas, be made good seamen. 

We found, on one of the Kays, at Glover's 
Reef, a party of fishermen curing fish and turtle 
for the Belize market ; and, in the course of the 
day, I had an opportunity of obtaining a passage 
to Balize in a trading vessel from Omoa, the crew 
of which had stopped to gather cocoa-nuts for sale 



THE BAY OF HONDURAS. 279 

there. The Mosquito men being desirous of re- 
maining* for the same purpose, and to procure fish 
for sale at the British settlement, I left the fleet 
under charge of Racon, and they in a few days 
joined me at Balize, where, by orders of Colonel 
Arthur, his Majesty's superintendant, they were 
kindly received, and regular rations allowed them. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

MOSQUITO COUNTRY ITS FITNESS FOR EURO- 
PEAN SETTLEMENTS — CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, 

&C, FORMER BRITISH SETTLEMENTS THERE 

NATIVES, AND NECESSITY FOR AFFORDING THEiSf 
PROTECTION DISPUTES REGARDING THE MOS- 
QUITO SHORE OPINION OF MR EDWARDS 

PLFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO THE CENTRAL STATES 

S-ROM THE EAST COAST ROUTE BY OMOA TO 

GUATEMALA' — LEAVE BALIZE — TAKEN BY PI- 
RATES — ESCAPE TO CUBA, AND RETURN TO 
ENGLAND. 

The recent injudicious and ill-seconded attempts 
of an individual, * to fix a colony of Europeans on 
the Mosquito Shore — together with the misrepre- 
sentations to which these gave rise, and the gene- 
ral want of attention to correct information on the 
subject — have induced many persons to adopt the 
most erroneous ideas of the soil, climate, and ca- 
pabilities of this country. 

My own experience, and the infoimation ob- 

* Sir Gregor Macgregor. See some Account of the 
Mosquito Territory, &c. from the original manuscripts of 
the late Colonel Hodgson, Edin. 1822 — Hastie's Narra- 
tive, and various publications on the subject. 



MOSQUITO COUNTRY. 281 

tained from sevei*al Europeans, many of them 
nearly a century old, who were residing on the 
coast little more than a year ago, is, to me, a suf- 
ficient proof that several parts of it are decidedly 
more salubrious than any one of our settlements 
in the West Indies. It is well known, that if men 
are located in low marshy ground, in the neigh- 
bourhood of stagnant water, the consequences are 
injurious to them in every country, but more es- 
pecially in a hot climate : — but I venture to af- 
firm, and I do so without fear of contradiction, 
that in dry situations similar to the Valiente set- 
tlements, where the waters quickly run off, Euro- 
peans would, generally speaking, enjoy an almost 
uninterrupted state of health, and live to a good 
old age ; and I venture to add, that in such situa- 
tions, the general mass of European cultivators 
could, with safety, perform more than double the 
work presently done by the Valientes, or any other 
tribe of Indians. Many of the dry savannahs, and 
fine ridges, are equally healthy ; but it is in the 
interior, on the banks of a river, that, as an agri- 
culturist, I would prefer forming a settlement ; 
and many hundred thousands of Europeans could 
find an asylum in such situations along the line of 
coast possessed by the Indians, and in the hilly 
country behind the Kharibbee settlements, with- 
out putting any of the native residents to incon- 
venience for want of room. 

The mosquitoes, sandflies, and other insects ; 
the poisonous reptiles, and wild beasts, of which 
so much is said in England, are, as regards the si- 
tuations alluded to, mere bugbears to friglitea 
children ; — the former are only troublesome on the 

z 2 



282 



CLIMATE, &C. OF 



low sandy beaches and swamps, some settlement 
being entirely clear of them ; and the latter seldom 
come near the habitations of men, or do any harm. 
It has been asserted, and I am more^ inclined to 
confirm than deny it, that nearly the whole line 
of coast from Cape Honduras to the Ri\^er San 
Juan, is free from those violent hurricanes which 
sometimes rage with such destructive fury in the 
West India Islands ; and it has also been affirm- 
ed, that the same tract of country is not subject to 
those dreadful earthquakes which have so often 
shaken, and, at one time or other, almost entirely 
destroyed the Spanish American towns towards 
the Pacific Ocean ; spreading death and dismay 
amongst the wretched inhabitants. I have in 
the course of the preceding narrative endea- 
voured to describe such of the valuable produc- 
tions of the country as came under my notice ; 
and I now repeat that inexhaustible supplies of 
cedar, mahogany, santa maria, rose-wood, and 
-many other exceedingly valuable timbers, may be 
obtained on the coast, and on the banks of all the 
rivers in the interior : — Dye woods, gums, drugs, 
and medicinal plants of various descriptions,^ are 
plentifully dispersed all over the country. The 
savannahs rear considerable numbers of cattle ; 
and, if there was a demand for them, innumerable 
herds could be supported on the plains close to 
the shore, as well as in the interior. Past ex-^ 
perience confiims the assertion, that the soil is well 
adapted to the cultivation of sugar, coffee, cotton, 
tobacco, indigo, and all the other productions of 
a tropical climate ; and I have no doubt that a 
sufficient quantity of rice and Indian corn might 
be produced, to supply the whole of our posses? 



THE MOSQUITO COUNTRY. 283 

fiions m the West Indies with these necessaiies. 
The turtle fishery might not only he protected from 
interlopers, but, by using proper methods to pre- 
serve the animal from wasteful destruction, a much 
greater quantity of tortoise-shell might be procured. 

Perhaps it is not generally known, that it was 
owing t(^ political difficulties, and not to any in- 
capabilities of the soil or climate, that the British 
Government were induced to break up their in- 
fent settlements, on the Mosquito Shore, at a time 
when they were rapidly increasing in prosperity 
and that it was with the gi'eatest reluctance, and 
enly in obedience to positive ordei's, that the Bri- 
tish settlers slowly and discontentedly left their 
plantations. Many of the Creoles and people of 
colour, however, as well as some of the Euro- 
peans, preferred remaining at all hazards ; and I 
bave had occasion to state that, even at the pre- 
sent day, their descendants still reside unmolested, 
and comparatively comfortable, in their old pos- 
sessions, particularly at Bluefields, Pearl Kay La- 
goon, and other places on the coast, which are by 
them^ and their Indian friends, considered English 
settlements. 

The actual jiumber of persons, exclusive of the 
aborigines, under the British jurisdiction in the 
year 1757, according to the account of their su- 
perintendant. Colonel Hodgson, was about eleven 
hundred souls ; and in the year 1770, Mr Ed- 
wards estimates the number at fourteen hundred. * 
The greater part of these people were at Black 

^ Some account of th^ British settlements on the Mos- 
quito Shore drawn up from the manuscripts of the late 
Colonel Hodgson, &c. — Edin. 2d Ed. also Edward*s His=» 
tory of the West Indies, 5th edition— Appendix. 



284 DISPUTES CONCERNING 

River, Cape River, and Brancmans : — The former 
place, where the British had erected a small fort, 
was the only one of the deserted settlements which 
the Spaniards dared even attempt to take into their 
possession ; but they were immediately driven from 
it by the Indian General, Robinson, whom I have 
so often had occasion to mention. The remainder 
of the British, at Cape Gracias a Dios, Sandy Bay, 
Pearl Kay Lagoon, the Corn Islands, Bluefields, 
Punta Gordo, Brewers Lagoon, Plantain River, 
Miztisoe Creek, and other parts of the coast, as 
far southward as Chiriqui Lagoon, were never 
molested. They owned twelve merchant vessels, 
several of them in the European trade, the others 
constantly trading to Jamaica, and the United 
States ; and their exports of mahogany, sarsapar- 
illa, tortoise-shell and mules ; together with spe- 
cie, indigo, cocoa, hides, and tallow got in barter 
with the Spaniards, were very considerable, and 
daily increasing. 

In the year 1776, the sloop Morning Star, 
Alexander Blair and Dr Charles Irving owners, 
having been seized by two Spanish Giiarda Cos- 
tas — a memorial drawn up by Bryan Edwards, * 
explanatory of the right which Brit^m had to re- 
tain her settlements on the Mosquito Coast, was 
laid before parliament. In that memorial Mr 
Edwards clearly traces the connexion which had 
subsisted between the British and Free Indians 
on the Mosquito Shore, since the reign of Charles 
the First : and contends, that by the seventh arti- 
cle of the treaty of Madrid, in 1670, the repeated 

* The historian of the West Indies, one of his Ma- 
jesty's Counsel for the Island of Jamaica, F. R. S. S. A. 
Ike. vide St^i edition of his Works — AppendiJC. 



THE MOSQUITO SHORE. 285 

cessions made by the Indians to the King of Great 
Britain were recognised and confirmed ; — and, that 
these cessions were not rendered invaUd by the 
treaty of Ai:^ la Chapelle ; consequently — that 
the order issued after the conclusion of that treaty 
to withdraw our troops, and dismantle the fortifi- 
cations built by the British at Black River, &c. 
" were evidently grounded on a most unaccount- 
able notion that the Mosquito Shore was part of 
the Bay of Honduras ; an astonishing instance of 
inattention, to call it by no harsher name, as it is 
BO part of the Bay of Honduras, so neither is it 
any part of the territory of Spain in that part of 
ike world. But, whatever interpretation may have 
formerly been given to these Spanish treaties, they 
may now be considered as no longer in existence; 
and, therefore, it is to be hoped the British Go- 
remment will, in good time, see the propriety of 
again extending its protection to the descendents 
of these British settlers and not abandon them, 
and their Indian friends, to the restrictive regula- 
tions, and arbitraiy exactions of the new govern^- 
ments of Spanish America ; who, although they 
cannot have derived from their ancestors, or other- 
wise, any well-founded claim to the Indian coast, 
©F Mosquito Shore, seem, by their despotic and 
ai'bitrary decrees, to assume the right of imposing, 
npon these free people, a yoke similar to that 
which they have thrown upon their own shoulders. 
It appears certain, that the natives will never as- 
similate with the citizens of these new States, nor 
willingly submit to their domination ; and as the 
latter are not at present sufficiently powerful to 
occupy the Indian country by force of arms, it m 
to be feared that, unless prevented by the inter- 



286 ROUTE FROM OMOA 

ference of Great Britain, they may cede their pre- 
tensions to the United States ; whose tradere, 
speaking the same language as the English, have 
heen gradually spreading themselves on the coast 
and undermining ours ; — and, if they ultimately 
obtain a firm footing, they may not only do serious 
injury to our West India possessions ; but, on. some 
pretence or other, overpower, and by forced la- 
bour, at canals or other works, gradually destroy 
the natives. Positions strong by nature, and easily 
fortified at a trifling expense, have been pointed 
out; and Bryan Edwaids, Colonel Hodgson, Cap- 
tain Wright, and other well informed men, have 
repeatedly insisted upon the advantages to be de- 
rived from the occupancy of some points on the 
coasts ; more especially that our West India pos- 
sessions would be thereby strengthened, and our 
colonists on any emergency, such as a hurricane 
or other sudden calamity, could in a few days be 
supplied from thence with provisions, stock, and 
lumber, — instead of being obliged to depend upon 
uncertain arrivals from the United States and Ca- 
nada ; or, in the event of war, from perhaps a 
much greater distance. 

I have particularly described one of the princi- 
pal routes by which the Central States have access 
to the Atlantic ; and, I need only give a short 
sketch of the direct road from the Bay of Hondu- 
ras to the capital, to show how nearly they are 
shut out from all communication with the east 
coast ; and the consequent difficulty of maintain- 
ing a free intercourse, and exchange of commodi- 
ties, with Europe and the West Indies ; premising, 
that the shore of what is termed the Province of 
Honduras, and the greater part of that Province 



TO GUATEMALA. 287 

itself, is, for the most part, either uninhabitable, 
or in the hands of the Kharibees and hostile In- 
dians ; who, without regarding the almost deserted 
towns of Triixillo and Omoa, could at any time 
render even this, the most direct route, dangerous 
or impracticable. 

The coast, to the westward of Cape Honduras 
and Truxillo, is low, swampy, shut out from the 
regular sea-breeze, and exceedingly unhealthy. 
The distance in a direct line from Truxillo to 
Omoa, is about 60 or 70 leagues, and a recent 
traveller, who seems to entertain a favourable opi- 
nion of the Central States, gives the following ac- 
count of his journey from thence to the city of 
Guatemala. * On their arrival at Omoa, he and 
his companions preferred remaining two days on 
shipboard, rather than expose themselves to the 
putrescent vapours which exhale from the marshes. 
Providing themselves with mattresses, provisions, 
&c. they left Omoa on the 2Sth April 182-5, and 
travelled twenty-tico leagues to the mouth of the . 
river that empties itself from the Golfo Dulce 
into the sea. Proceeding up that river, they en- 
tered the small gulf, and, crossing a streight into 
the Golfo Dulce^ descended it to Izahel, a trifling 
village recently established, inhabited by a few ne- 
groes : here they sold their mattrasses and bought 
amaches^ a lighter kind of bedding : they took up 
their abode in a small hut, and the only provision 
they could procure was a few fowls. This village 
is eighteen leagues from the river above mentioned : 
leaving it at five in the morning, they crossed the 

* Journal of Dr Lavagnino. New Monthly Magazine 
for Decern. 18^'^'*, No. GO. MS. account, &c. 



288 ROUTE TO Guatemala/ 

mountain Del Miclio, and arrived at Micho in the 
evening, a distance of about seven leagues. " The 
road we traversed on that day was horribly bad, 
and we often sunk deep into the mud. In the 
rainy season the mules often perish in lakes of 
mud. Sometimes the traveller passes on the verge 
of precipices, where it is necessary to shut his eyes 
not to be terrified by beholding danger in its most 
frightful aspect. Then he is forced to trust en- 
tirely to the experience of the mules, which are 
wonderfully sagacious in selecting paths, but not- 
withstanding this sagacity, they sometimes sank to 
the belly in mud. At other times, the traveller is 
compelled to pass on an inclined plane, from which 
he every instant appears destined to slip and fall 
into quagmires. If his attention be diverted from 
liis perils and difficulties, he hears the roarings of 
lions and tigers, and a confused noise arising from 
the bowlings of animals, and the singing of birds, 
the beautiful and lively colours of whose plumage, 
seems to be brought into view in some sort to qua- 
lify the scene of hoiror and of fright around. " 
The travellers slept in a hut at Micho, boiled a 
fowl, and made some soup with biscuit. Next 
day they continued their journey, on the top of a 
mountainous pine-ridge, where they still heard 
the roarings of tigers — the road tolerably good, 
but the descent inconvenient ; they then came to 
a gi'ove of wild palms : in some places the scene 
was beautiful, in others horribly savage. In the 
afternoon they arrived at Encuentros^ a mean ham- 
let with few inhabitants, on the banks of the 
river Montagua, having a post-house, and custom- 
house officers : the distance from Micho is about 
dx leagues. From Encuentros to Guana is four 



SAN ANTONIO. ZACAPA. 289 

leagues, the road mountainous. From thence to 
Gualam, where the country beg:ins to assume a 
better appearance, and to be in some degree inha- 
bited, tlie distance i^four leagues more. " Gualam 
is a country containing fom- thousand souls : the 
district is daily increasing in prosperity and popu- 
lation by reason of the river Montagua passing 
in its neighbourhood, by which stream, all the 
merchandise from Omoa is transported to Guate- 
mala. " 

On the 5th of May they travelled tivo leagues 
to San Antonio, where they found provisions cheap; 
and as none were to be had on the road, they 
here renewed their store. From San Antonio to 
San Pablo, an Indian village with a church, the 
distance is Jive leagues : they arrived there at eight 
in the evening, and reposed till eleven, when, trust- 
ing to the light of the moon, they went three 
leagues farther to Zacapa, a large village situated 
in an extensive plain. The road last gone over 
was steep and stony ; they often met convoys of 
mules laden with merchandise, and saw many 
tents filled with goods lying in heaps, guarded by 
one or two white men ; and they observed some 
Indians travelling nearly naked and loaded like 
"beasts of burden." The heat of the sun was 
. oppressive, and created such intolerable thirst, that 
the sfght of a hut promising a draught gf water 
was hailed as a luxury. At a short distance from 
Zacapa the river of that name unites with the 
San Augustine to form the river Montagua, which 
at Gualam, nine leagues farther, becomes navigable 
for large canoes forty leagues to the sea. From 
Zacapa to Similappa consisting of about a hun- 
2 A 



290 OMOA TO GUATEMALA. 

dred small huts, the distance is eight leagues, and 
Sobecas is four leagues farther. The roads were 
Btrown with dead horses and cows, in consequence 
of the pastures being universally burnt up. Pro- 
ceeding by Guastatojas, a town containing several 
stone houses, to Incontro and Roncadilla, seveii 
leagues distant — they ascended a mountain, and 
passed over various hills in succession, ^bwr leagues 
to Montegrande, and from thence to the estate of 
father Caballeros,yzY'e leagues farther. Travelling 
latterly was pleasanter, the road being more shaded 
from the sun. 

On the 13th of May they travelled on a naiTow 
road on the brink of a precipice, near to an ex- 
tinguished volcano ; and passing over a high moun- 
tain reached the estate of San Jose, Jive leagues 
from the estate last mentioned. Here they found 
the air cool and salubrious. They rested in the 
evening at another estate tico leagues fai'ther, and 
next morning (the \^th of 3Icty) went forward by 
a road, at first good, but which gradually grows 
worse to the city of Guatemala, situated in a plain, 
which, although badly cultivated, contains many 
Indian villages. They had frequently during the 
last few days met troops of Indians " of both sexes 
loaded like beasts of burden, walking to the sound 
of a drum. " It seems only necessary to add,, that 
the whole distance from Omoa to the city of 
Guatemala is ninety leagues ; and that, by a re- 
port of their own Chamber of Commerce, merchant- 
dise Cannot, in many instances, be transported, 
from the Bay of Honduras, to the capital, in less 
than eight months ! 

The route by the River San Juan, therefore, al- 
though at an inconvenient distance from the Cen- 



LEAVE BALI2E. 291 

tral part of the States, is evidently the one by 
which European commerce will ultimately pass to 
the side of the Pacific. There is still a third 
road, namely, that by Matina and Cartago ; but its 
distance from the capital of the New States, and 
the want of a harbour on the Atlantic side, form 
insuperable objections to its ever becoming attrac- 
tive except to smugglers. 

To return to my proceedings at Balize — I had 
drawn up and delivered to Colonel Arthur and 
the Reverend Mr Armstrong a short sketch of the 
different settlements where the establishment of 
missionaries and commercial depots were most, 
likely to prove successful, and these enlightened 
men seemed to be fully impressed with the im- ; 
portance of the subject, both in a public and pri- 
vate point of view ; but the unjust clamours 
afterwards raised and kept up by a few in- 
terested individuals against these worthy men, 
whose only crime seems to have been a desire to 
do good, and to dispense impartial justice to all 
classes, without distinction of rank or colour, pre- 
vented their sound and charitable endeavours from 
bemg effectual. The colonel was shortly recalled 
from the superintendency, — to the great regret and 
dissatisfaction of the population of Balize ; which 
"^ cu'cum stance, together with the wavering conduct 
of the Mosquito King, the jarring interests of the 
Balize merchants, and other circumstances not in- 
teresting to the general reader, rendered it neces- 
sary, after one or two inefficient voyages, to seek , 
more effectual support in England. 

But I was still destined, before leaving the 
Western world, to be involved in another danger- 
ous adventure. The small schooner in which I, 



292 TAKEN BY PIRATES, 

was proceeding from Balize to Jamaica was cap- 
tured, near the Island of Cuba, by a laige pirati- 
cal row-boat, containing a numerous crew of fero- 
cious desperadoes of all colours. Without the 
means of effectual resistance, and being at the 
moment nearly becalmed, we had no alternative 
but quietly to submit to our fate. Having plun- 
dered om- persons of every thing valuable, the 
pirates ordered us to quit the vessel in a leaky old 
canoe, and await their fuither pleasure at a small 
desert kay or island, seen at a little distance. 
When in the act of going over the schooner's side, 
one of these gentry took a fancy to my jacket, (I 
had previously lost my hat), which I pulled off, 
and threw down at his feet, telling him to " take it." 
Not liking the manner in which I complied with 
his request, he without ceremony struck a furious 
blow at my head with his cutlass, the weight of 
which sent me into the canoe in a state of insen- 
sibility. When I recovered my recollection, I 
found that I had instinctively put myself in a'de- 
fensive attitude, while he was deliberately taking 
aim at me with a pistol which fortunately missed 
fire, and in the meantime my companions kept 
pulling away from the vessel. We landed for a 
short period on the Sandy Kay ; but having no doubt 
that, so soon as the pirates had removed the most 
valuable part of the cargo, they would set her on 
fire, and complete their crime by murdering us, 
we came to the determination of endeavouring to 
effect our escape. Stopping the leaks in our crazy 
canoe in the best manner we could, we got her 
round to the side of the kay opposite to that 
on which they were plundering the schooner ; 
and, keeping the kay interposed between us, dui- 



ESCAPE TO CUBA. 293 

ing the night, in the course of which we saw 
the light of the burning schooner, we rowed in the 
direction of the Island of Cuba, the south side 
of which we happily reached, — and entering a 
small creek, we waded for sometime through mud 
and swamps, until we came to a small Spanish 
fort or outpost, where we were well treated, and 
shortly afterwards sent, across the Island of Havan- ^u 
nah, from whence, I readily obtained a passage 
home to England. 



A 2 



APPENDIX. 



Note I. Preface, page xix. 

" I Alonso de Ojeda, servant of the most high and 
powerful Kings of Castile and Leon, the conquerors of 
barbarous nations, their messenger and captain, notify to 
you and declare, in as ample form as 1 am capable, that 
God our Lord, who is one and eternal, created the heaven 
and the earth, and one man and one woman, of whom 
you and we, and all the men who have been or shall be 
in the wwld, are descended. But as it has come to pass 
through the number of generations during more than five 
thousand years, that they have been dispersed into differ^ 
ent parts of the world, and are divided into various king- 
doms and provinces, because one country was not able to 
contain them, nor could they have found in one the means 
of subsistence and preservation ; therefore God our Lord 
gave the charge of all these people to one man, named St 
Peter, whom he constituted the Lord and head of all the 
human race, that all men, in whatever place they are born, 
or in whatever faith or place they are educated, might 
yield obedience unto him. The whole world he hath sub- 
jected to his jurisdiction, and commanded him to establish 
his residence in Rome, as the most proper place for the 
government of the world. He likewise promised and 
gave him power to establish his authority in everv -^ther 
part of tJie world, and to judge and govern all Christians, 
Moors, Jew^s, Gentiles, and all other people of whatever 

^ sect or faith they may be. To him is given the name of 
Fojye, which signifies admirable, great father and guardian, 
because he is the father and governor of all men. Those 
who lived in the time of this holy father obeyed and ac- 
knowledged him as their Lord and King, and the Em- 
peror of the universe. The same has been observed with 

« respect to them who, since his time, have been chosen to 
the pontificate. Thus it now continues, and will continue 
to the end of the Tv^orld, 



296 



APPENDIX. 



*' One of these pontiffs, as Lord of the world, hath 
made a grant of these Islands, and of the Tierra Firme of 
the Ocean Sea. to the Catholic Kings of Castile, Don 
-Ferdinand and Donna Isabella, of glorious memory, and 
their successors, our Sovereigns, with all thpy contain, as 
IS more fully expressed in certain deeds passed upon that 
occasion, which you may see if you desire it. Thus his 
Majesty is King and Lord of these Islands, and of the 
Continent, in virtue of this donation; and as King and 
Lord aforesaid, most of the islands to which his title hath 
been noti Bed have recognised his Majesty, and now yield 
obedience and subjection to him as their Lord, voluntarily 
and without resistance ; and instantly, as soon as they re- 
ceived information, they obeyed the religious men sent by 
the King to preach to them, and to instruct them in our 
holy faith ; and all these, of their own free will, without 
any recompense or gratuity, became Christians, and con- 
tinue to be so ; and his Majesty having received them 
graciously under his protection, has commanded that they 
should be treated in the same manner as his other sub- 
jects and vassals. You are bound and obliged to act in 
the same manner. Therefore I now entreat and require 
you to consider attentively what I have declared to you : 
and that you may more perfectly comprehend it, that you 
take such time as is reasonable, in order that you may 
acknowledge the church as the superior and guide of the 
universe, and likewise the holy father called the Pope, in 
his own right, and his Majesty by his apix)intment, as 
King and Sovereign Lord of these Islands, and of the 
Tierra Firme ; and that you consent that the aforesaid 
holy fathers shall declare and preach to you the doctrines 
above mentioned. If you do this, you act well, and per- 
form that to which you are bound and obliged ; and his 
Majesty, and I in his name, will receive you with love 
and kindness, and will leave you, your wives and children, 
free and exempt from servitude, and in the enjoyment of 
all you possess, in the same manner as the inhabitants of 
the islands. Besides this, his Majesty will bestow upon 
you many privileges, exemptions, and rewards. But if 
you will not comply, or maliciously delay to obey my in- 
junction, then, with the help of God, I will enter your 
country by force ; I will carry on war against you with the 
utmost violence; I will subject you to the'yoke of obedience 
to the Church and King ; 1 will take your wives and child- 



APPENDIX. 297 

i^n, and will make them slaves, and sell or dispone of themi 
according to his Majesty's pleasure ; I will seize your 
goods, and do you all the mischief in my power, as re- 
bellious subjects, who will not acknowledge or submit to 
their lawful Sovereign. And I protest that all the blood- 
shed and calamities which shall follow are to be imputed 
to you, and not to his Majesty, or to me, or the gentlemen 
who serve under me ; and as I have now made this de- 
claration and requisition unto you, I require the notary 
here present to grant me a certificate of this, subscribed 
in proper form. ** 

NoTiill. Page 53. 

Porto Bello has often been described. The harbour 
was discovered by Columbus in 1502, and the town built 
in 1584?. I*t was captured by the Buccanier Captain 
Morgan about the year 1680; by Admiral Vernon in 
1740 ; and again by Sir Gregor MacGregor in 1819. 
The Isthmus is here about sixty miles broad. The direct 
route overland to Panama, the seat of the American Con- 
gress, is described by Surgeon Weatherhead, who, with 
his companions in misfortune, travelled it in 1819. Their 
first day *s journey was by narrow and difficult paths through 
bushes, brambles, and stunted trees : they repeatedly 
crossed a rapid river, and late in the afternoon began to 
ascend the heights of Santa Clara by a path narrow, steep, 
and in some places so perpendicular, that one at a time 
they were obliged to climb upon their hands and feet ; in 
other places they sunk to their knees in mud, extricating 
themselves by means of the roots of the trees and bushes. 
They rested in huts on those heights, and next morning, 
after a difficult descent, they passed through mountainous 
forests to a small but rapid river in a narrow ravine, with 
immense sandstone rocks on each side ; after crossing it 
eleven times, they by a narrow pass reached the station of 
Sticaron, surrounded by high mountains. Next morning 
passing up a deep glen, the road broken up and full of 
holes, where they sunk to the knees in mud, they passed 
over the height, but found a mountain-stream on the 
other side so swollen by the mighty rains, that they were . 
forced to retrace their steps to Bucaron. Next day, pass- 
ing this stream, they ascended a succession of hills and 
mountains, by a path sometimes winding, and at others in 



298 APPENDIX. 

a perpendicplar direction ; and, crossing the river no less 
than thirty-one times, reached tlie station of Atrass. Next 
morning tliey again repeatedly crossed the river, and 
passed over a high ridge to St Juans, a place consisting 
of about fifty bamboo huts. They next day crossed the 
river three times, and from a high mountain had the first 
view of the Pacific. Resting another night on the ground, 
they passed through woods, swamps, meadows, and sa- 
vannahs, to the city of Panama. The other route from 
Porto Bello, by the river Chagre to Cruces and Panama, 
notwithstanding the difficulty of propelling boats against 
the rapid current of the river to Cruces, presents fewer 
difficulties, and is better adapted for the conveyance of 
goods, especially from the Pacific to the side of the At- 
lantic Weatherhead's *< Account of the Expedition a- 

gainst the Isthmus of Darien. " Longman & Co., 1821. 

Note III. page 58. * 

An English sailor, who, in the year 1730, sojourned^ 
few days at the Spanish village of Chiriqui, on the side of 
the Pacific, thus describes an incursion of the Valientes. 
*' During my residence at the Governor's house, and at a 
time when I lay dangerously ill of a fever, came a com- 
pany of roving Indians into the town, and plundered it of 
much riches. The inhabitants being few in number, and 
unprepared to receive an enemy, were under the ne'fcessity 
of submitting" to whatever was imposed on them ; and 
after they had ravaged the town as they thought fit, they 
committed one of the most outrageous cruelties that could 
possibly enter into the heart of man. There was but one 
clergyman in the town, who was a Spaniard, and of the 
order of St Francis; him they seized on, and put to 
death. " In the midst of his torments they said, " that 
this was but a small revenge for the torrent of Indian blood 
heretofore spilled by the Spaniards. With the deplorable 
catastrophe of this unhappy gentleman their fury ceased: 
and they attempted to put no other person to death, but ' 
declared, had they met more Spaniards in the town, they 
would have served them all in the same manner. After 
this, the enemy, being in number between two and three 
hundred, (men and women), came to the Governor's house, 
which was no better prepared to receive them than the 
rest of the people; and when they had ransacked the 



APPENDIX. 299 

greatest part of it, and taken out such things as they liked 
best, they at last came into the room where I lay sick, and 
the first question they asked me was, what countryman I 
was ? 1 quickly answered an Englishman, taken by Spa- 
nish pirates, and cruelly used by them; and was now 
waiting for an opportunity to get home to my own coun- 
try. They assured me they would do me no injury ; but, 
on the contrary, if I would put myself under their pro- 
tection, and go along with them, they would do me all 
the service in their power, and would furnish me with all 
manner of things necessary towards forwarding my getting 
home, which I might do with greater ease and expedition 
by their means, than any other way I could propose : for 
they were Indians that inhabited on the North Sea, where 
vessels frequently arrived from Jamaica to trade with 
them ; they had some knowledge of the English, and loved 
them very well, though they abhorred the Spaniards ; and 
as they had never yet been conquered by them, they were 
determined utterly to defy them, and all their adherents. " 
The murder of the priest, frightened the sailor too much 
to trust himself with them, and they marched off with 
their plunder without opposition. — Cockburns Narrative=> 

Note IV., page 143. 

" It is not doubted, '* (says Mr Rodgers, in a letter to 
the President of the Antiquarian Society of London, read 
April 6th 1780), *' that the natives had formerly many 
arts among them, which have been lost for several centu- 
ries, and even known to have existed by tradition only, 
and by a few specimens still scattered in the interior, and, 
at present, uncultivated parts of the district. " An intel- 
ligent gentleman acquainted with their language, "had 
the curiosity, under their direction, to take a journey into 
the interior parts of the country of seventy or eighty miles ; 
and, guided by them, he found, on digging, many curious 
pieces of antiquity, but most of them too massive to be re- 
moved ; and, amongst the rest, a prodigious quantity of 
such masques as are here exhibited, which his Indian con- 
ductors told him were the likenesses of chiefs, or other 
eminent persons, who had been formerly buried there, and 
that it was their custom to mix gold-dust with the clay of 
these portraits, which were, in general, heads or bu-^ts only, 
and oflen entire figures. These were placed at the head^ 



300 APPENDIX. ^ 

of the deceased, whose bodies were enclosed in a fine 
earth of red porcelain elegantly engraved. One thing is 
observable, that the present race of natives have not th^ 
least knowledge of the art of making these masques ; nor 
of fonning a composition which is likewise found with 
them, or near the places where they are discovered, and 
which is so hard, that no tool, how finely soever tempered, 
•will make the least impression on it. 

^ To the above account may be added, that one of these 
pieces is an entire foot, which, if it were Roman, would 
be called a votive foot ; another is a head with swollen 
eyes and nose, and a sore crown, which would likewise be 
thought votive of a person recovered of these disorders, 
and a third represents two children who died young. 

Many of these Terra Cottas, have their backs concaved, 
by which we may imagine they are parts of sepulchral 
urns, if we had any authority for siich a supposition. Se- 
veral of these masques are evidently of faces tatoo'd, a 
practise long disused on the Shore. " 

These masques were brought from the Mosquito Shore, 
about the year 1775. — Vide Archceologia, vol. 6th p, 107. 

Note V. page 240. 

A long enumeration of the articles requisite for the In- 
dian and Central American trade, would noiv be uninterest- 
ing to the merchant as well as to the generality of readers 
because recent speculations and publications Lave given 
access to much information on the subject. It is, therefore, 
only necessary to observe, that the articles requisite for the 
Central States, are nearly similar to those demanded 'n\ 
Mexico and other parts of Spanish America. The In- 
dians constantly require coarse linens of every kind — 
handkerchiefs and coarse cotton articles, chiefly showy red 
colours — moscheates or cutlass blades, of the best kind — * 
spear-pointed, large clasp and table knives— felling axes, 
saws, locks and binges, — nails, large needles, pins, and 
fish-hooks, — iron pots, frying pans, flat iron plates, and 
similar other articles of iron ware — tin ware for cooking, 
of all sorts — small glass beads of lively colours — smalt 
Dutch looking glasses. Rum is indispensable for the In- 
dian trade — also gunpowder, muskets and fowling pieces : 
the New States object to the introduction of the latter ar- 
ticles amongst the Indians, but these people can always 
be supplied by the free traders. 



APPENDIX. 301 

Many other articles required by the chiefs will suggest 
themselves to a speculator, and it seems only requisite to 
observe further, that such goods as are likely to be sent 
into the interior, should be packed in small light cases, 
such as are easily moved, and not liable to be damaged by 
moisture. 



Note VI. page 256. 

A contract has recently been formed between the Go- 
vernment of Central America, and a company of citizens 
of the United States, for opening a canal through the lake 
of Nicaragua, the principal conditions of which are, that 
it shall be of such size as to admit vessels of the greatest 
burden possible. The Central States permit the cutting 
of timber necessary for the works, — furnish such surveys 
as have already been made on the subject^and give every 
facility in making new ones, and in procuring workmen. 
The States bind themselves to indemnify owners of lands, 
farms, and other property through which the canal may 
pass, for all damages incurred thereby. Ten per cent, in- 
terest to be paid on the capital expended by the company, 
who are also to receive two thirds of the duties on all vessels, 
goods, and produce, passing through the canal, the States 
to receive the other third. The Company are also to re- 
ceive one half of the net proceeds of the canal, for the 
term of seven years, after the Central States shall have 
repaid them the capital and ten per cent, interest ; and, to 
have the exclusive privilege of the navigation of the canal 
by steam boats, free of duties, for twenty years after its 
completion, with the right of fixing their own rates charge- 
able for freight and passage money, and the rate of com- 
pensation for towing vessels. The navigation to be open 
to all friendly and neutral powers. The Company are to 
have a preference for the supply of the castles and fortifica- 
tions, to be erected on the canal, with arms, ammunition, 
and stores ; and also, in the contracts for building and 
equipping vessels of war, to be kept on the Lake of Nica- 
ragua for the protection of the canal. This contract was 
signed by the President of the Central States, in the month 
of June 1826, and has received the approbation of the Se- 
cretary of State, and of the Treasury of the United States. 
2b 



# 



302 * APPENDIX. 

Note VII. page 257. 

Marcasite of gold is in the shape of little balls or nodules 
about the size of walnuts, nearly round, heavy and of a 
brown colour on the outside. The metallic stones that 
contain gold, generally contain antimony, vitriol, sulphur, 
copper, platina, or silver, and particularly the latter. The 
method usually employed in South America to extract the 
gold, is to break the metallic stones pretty small, with iron 
mallets. They are afterwards ground in mills, to powder, 
which is then passed through wire sieves, the last sieve being 
very fine ; The coarsest particles are thrown back into the 
mill. The fine powder is then laid in wooden troughs 
with quicksilver and water, it is well kneaded, and left to 
saturate in the air and sun for forty-eight hours ; the wa- 
ter is then poured off repeatedly, and the recrementitious 
earth is thus readily separated, leaving the gold and quick- 
silver amalgamated. The quicksilver is then evaporated 
by distillation, and the gold being fused in crucibles, is 
•ast into plates or ingots. 

NnTF. Vlll.fjia^ 266. 

Fe4| people are acquainted with the immense size and 
talue of some logs of mahogany brought to this country. 
The following may serve as an example. " The largest 
and finest log of mahogany ever imported into this coun- 
try has been recently sold by auction at the docks in Li- 
verpool. It was purchased by James Hodgson, Esq. for 
three hundred and seventy- eight pounds, and afterwards 
sold by him for five hundred and twenty-five pounds, and 
if it open well, it is supposed to be worth o?ie thousand 
pounds. If sawn into vineers it is computed that the cost 
<rf labour in the process will be seven hundred and fifty 
pounds. The weight at the King's beam is six tons thir- 
teen hundred weight. " 

Macclesfield Courier, Oct, 1825. 



THE END. 



BRINTED BY J. HUTCHISON, 
rOH THE HEIES OF D. WILLISOX. 



